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Model A Ford garage

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bolensboneyard

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Thought you would like to see the completed engine now running well. Hope to get back to it next week. The other picture is of a DC motor that sits on a tripod and is portable for use in conjunction with a wind generator back before rural electrification. It has a multisided pulley and is 32 volt DC. Rare and working. It can be run off of batteries to provide power to many things such as water pumps etc.
 

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bolensboneyard

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Anyone have a Bishman tire machine 880-61? I am looking to find the tool that removes the bead from the tire of just get some pictures close up with dimensions so I can build one. If so please send me a private message. thanks Bobby
 
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bolensboneyard

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Went to the Charlotte auto fair yesterday and picked up my new/old tire changer. Hope to get it working after I finish the mustang (If I can keep my hands off of it till then? Picked up a load of stuff from Harris Mustang in Charlotte to further the progress if something "urgent" doesn't come up with the house. Can anyone identify this Machine? Can't find a name on it. Thanks Bobby
 

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bolensboneyard

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Got this one for $100. I figure if I can't get it running at all it will still be easier to take a tire off the rim with tire irons locked down on it than it is trying to hold it on a piece of plywood. Looks better than the manual ones too. I can always use a bar with a roller on it.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Got a chance to play with the tire changer. Some PB Blaster and working it some it looks like the piston will need rebuilding. I got the shaft to work and although taking a tire off the rim is not as easy as a modern machine with the help of some tire irons to coax it along it is much easier than using the tire irons alone. With their help and my air pressure under full charge I can even break a bead with the cyl. bypassing air. It also no longer leaks air just sitting. If I had put steel air lines inside my walls instead of pvc schedule 40 I would adj. my pressure switch higher.
 

dlcwent

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Bobby, could it be an old Atlas. They looked quite similar. I found one on the antiquetractor site that looks pretty close.??????????? Maybe I'm not even in the ball park??
 
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bolensboneyard

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Progress on the tire machine. I know I should have taken pictures of what was done under the cap. I will get some of the area above. I got the tire changer running. Lubed it to free up peddles and valves. The main shaft rotates in short bursts about quarter turns. I have taken two tires off mostly dry and all seems to work as it should. The bead breaker would break beads with the help of a tire iron. I contacted a few company's that sell parts for old changers and was told that if it works at all do not open it as many were not fixable. I found that the piston was leaking around the shaft seal and the bushing was chipped off on the top. I was reluctant to make things worse by opening it as I still do not know what brand it is. I elected to take an old piece of leather belt and make a washer that would incorporate the notch in the broken bushing to seal part of the shaft seal from the outside. Next I put an O ring around the shaft and inside the leather washer. I then took an aluminum dish from a float a motor Model A Ford motor mount that I had modified to use on a Model B and didn't need and drilled a one inch hole through the center and covered the whole thing flipping it upside down. Today I will attempt to keep it locked down. I have several ideas but will probably choose the least invasive (not necessarily the best.)
 
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bolensboneyard

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Now I got nothing again. I have taken the cylinder apart and am attempting to rebuild if possible. Anyone out there know about these old machines I am not too old to learn. I believe I have identified the machine as a Big Four??
 
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bolensboneyard

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Turns out it is a Big Four model XP 100BF stud evader. I now have the seal for the piston and have taken apart the dump valve. I found some material that I believe I can make the no longer available valve gaskets out of and will attempt this next week. I also got pictures of one that is complete. They were made in the late fifties early sixties near as I can nail it down.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Got it working!!! I could not get the exact reinforced rubber to make the valve discs but what I could get I was able to come up with my own design and it worked great. Gave it the supreme test. I put a 40 Ford 16 inch rim on it and it only takes up to 15. inch The rim and tire have been together for about 50 years. The tire was dry rot and it and the tube were frozen to the rim with rust. This little 55 year old tire changer not only broke the bead but it held down the rim without losing air. As soon as the pedal was released it dumped the air every time. Cylinder is now rebuilt also and I made a new bushing tor the ram. Have to get the mustang done before I can play more with the tire changer or restore it. Not much to take pictures of for what is done now. Beats a manual machine when it comes to saving my wrists from the pains of age.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Thought this was an unusual Model A item and some of you may know what manufacturer built it. I believe it is a mounting plate for a boring machine possibly a Van Norman or Storm. It is a set up for the Model A for sure.
 

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bolensboneyard

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Good to hear from you 1/2 cup. Give a guess why the support legs. I haven't got into looking too close yet but I suspect it is to give more distance between the anchor points for the boring bar, and therefore more stability and accuracy? I could also see an advantage to it being mounted on the crankshaft side of the engine block for mounting the non drive end of the bar,thereby having two machine surfaces and location aids to accurate with and possibly allow it to be used with the KR Wilson combination machine? Might also be good to use as a guide to drilling out stripped head bolts or used in replacing threads with helicoil inserts.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Finally making some headway on the GT. Thought the fit up of fenders and hood came out pretty good considering they never came from the factory looking like a Lincoln. However, as many no, trying to completely satisfy oneself is the hardest job of all. Should have the final prime on all the small pieces by the end of the week and then see if all else fits together in an appropriate manner. Then comes the long task of final sanding. Still not sure if I will trust the painting of the main body to someone else as I do not have a paint booth. But, it's hard to let go of even a little piece of the work.
 

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bolensboneyard

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Got to fit up the front grill area today and tweak a few areas. It is looking good so far but the hardware you get aftermarket is hard to take. If you cannot catch it by three threads two will not hold. In some cases I had to blast and paint the old hardware. More pics. when it is painted and reinstalled.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Final fit up. These will come off and be painted two more coats of primer; a light color. Then the final color before assembly. I am real happy with the fit up. Hope to feel the same about the final paint; we'll see.
 

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All the front end parts have been primed and half are sanded. I changed the manufacturer of the primer I have been using and the new stuff sets up a lot faster. This would be great if I had known before it plugged up my spray gun! Guess that's what happens when you do not paint for a living. Going to try a slower hardener for the clear coat. Wish me luck!
 

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All the front end parts have been primed and half are sanded. I changed the manufacturer of the primer I have been using and the new stuff sets up a lot faster. This would be great if I had known before it plugged up my spray gun! Guess that's what happens when you do not paint for a living. Going to try a slower hardener for the clear coat. Wish me luck!

All the best with it Bobby let us know how it goes.:thumbup:
 

dlcwent

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Hi Bobby, have you got a chance to do anymore spraying yet? What are you using for a gun? I'm thinking about buying a new hvlp before I spray out the Delta. I do very little painting these days, so I'm not convinced to spend money on a new gun that will rarely get used.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Dan I asked you a question on your thread. I think you may have missed it concerning how to check the play in a lower control arm with a bar. Anyway to answer your question, I sprayed yesterday all the front pieces and some others, all small. Everything but the headlight doors came out great. I got a few small runs in the headlight doors as it was getting dark and my light from the side I was shooting was poor. I have to sand and spray again. I am using a gun right now that was made by Porter Cable cost me $50. I have had close to equal success with a $15 Harbor Freight gun unless your are real picky. I guess to some degree it's like target shooting; it's not the rifle it's the shooter that makes the difference.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Burgundy metallic is now done on all the small body pieces that make up the grill and light area. Also the rear vents and quarter corners are finish painted. I will take pictures and post this weekend. Bobby
 
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bolensboneyard

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Pictures as promised. All are top shelf defects are only reflections. More to come. Pictures that is. Can't vouch for no defects in the rest of the car yet.
 

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bolensboneyard

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More pictures!
 

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dlcwent

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Bobby, I'm sorry that I didn't answer your question. I wasn't sure it wasn't rhetorical.
Bushings are checked for with the suspension hanging. Taking your crowbar, pry between the frame and control arm, either up and down or side to side depending on how the bushing is mounted. Looking for excessive movement. If the rubber has ripped, it will allow the control arm to travel to the point of touching the frame (or mounting hole). A good bushing will not allow more movement in one direction than the other. I hope that helps. I can always take a video of me checking one and send it to you if you'd like.

I like the color you've chosen, and from the pictures, it looks pretty nice. I don't see your runs. I will have to disagree with you on the gun statement though. I have a few guns and they are not all created equally in my opinion.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Thanks Dan. I will let you know if I need to see the video. No runs. I fixed that before the clear coat. Definitely not implying that all guns are equal; just that a cheap gun can shoot a nice finish in the hands of a pro wear as a pro quality gun will not an artist make in the hands of those less skilled!
 

dlcwent

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Thanks Dan. I will let you know if I need to see the video. No runs. I fixed that before the clear coat. Definitely not implying that all guns are equal; just that a cheap gun can shoot a nice finish in the hands of a pro wear as a pro quality gun will not an artist make in the hands of those less skilled!

I couldn't agree more. I missed your point thee first time around.
 
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bolensboneyard

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I can remember making funnels like these in High School machine shop. Soldered together with a big iron heated in a gas furnace. Wonder if some of these kids would know what they are? Probably think they were Wizard of Oz Tin Man hats (trending!)
 

dlcwent

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Funny that you said that, because I was going to be a smart a$$ and say, "The tin man was wondering were his hat went"

I don't think I've seen a metal funnel for decades. Nice find.
 
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