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Model A Ford garage

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bolensboneyard

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Nice little tractor Bobby. And it was great talking to you. As a reminder, let's see some pictures of the folk lift. I wouldn't have believed it to even be possible.

Here it is Dan with a model a engine on the pallet. Took me half an hour to find a picture as it is usually in use. It has 550 lbs of counter weight on the front. It took me a year to get this from the dealer who bought it new. He thought the hydro was no good. When I got it I found the linkage needed oiling and was restricting the swash plate going in reverse.
 

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bolensboneyard

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Tractor is running nicely and I have one hydraulic leak I can live with for now. Battery is up at 16 v i'm thinking it is on its last leg. amp gauge shows full charge and small discharge when shut off but the plug to the reg/rec (solid state) is burned and I am going to change it and the reg/rec tomorrow. The battery in the forklift has shown charging on this battery (it's where I borrowed it from) That reg/rec has diodes. Usually this problem is the reg/rec and not the stator. Hydro runs well but was left 3 quarts low and the leaking line only leaks with operation of the lift arm. Not bad for a machine that looks pretty beat up.
 

dlcwent

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I am impressed. I guess it proves that even a little guy can do a big job. Of course hydraulics tends to level the playing field.:thumbup:
 
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bolensboneyard

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update. changed the plug and the reg/rec plus cleaned up the wiring which took the rest of the day. Changed the amp gage too before it was over. (probably didn't have to but I have a drawer full. Bolens now charging slightly as I believe overcharge was due to bad reg. :) Hydraulic leak only when lift is operated at full extension. Once deck is on that will not happen. It will stay as it is until I decide what I am going to do with this tractor. I.E. part it or restore. Hydraulics not a problem for a boy who cut his teeth as an airframes mechanic apprentice. Yeah I know Andy now I'm bragging :thumbup:
 

dlcwent

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"Hydraulics not a problem for a boy who cut his teeth as an airframes mechanic apprentice. Yeah I know Andy now I'm bragging"

^And you have every right to do so.

It doesn't sound like there's enough wrong with it to part it out.
 
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bolensboneyard

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"Hydraulics not a problem for a boy who cut his teeth as an airframes mechanic apprentice. Yeah I know Andy now I'm bragging"

^And you have every right to do so.

It doesn't sound like there's enough wrong with it to part it out.

Thanks Dan. I have it running well and even fixed the charging problem but now it has been raining so much I am stuck taking to inside projects. Pictures forthcoming if I can get to the shop as I haven't built that kayak yet!
 
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bolensboneyard

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Too much rain to get to priority projects so I decided to build a garden cart out of old scrap, oak that was too warped for furniture, and left over hardware. Much more work than plywood but all this GJ influence is giving me a case of frugally. The deck has required some creative cutting to use as little oak as possible. The resting perch is electrical conduit from a former homemade cart and the axel for the bike wheels is held on with a fabricated clamp. I have some other "junk" that I am experimenting with for add ones and the side boards are really cupped so I'll need to rip them in order not to have to use something better. Keep you posted.
 

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oldironfarmer

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Mighty fine cart you have there sir! And all found material:rocker::rocker:

It does not even need a finish to be durable for several years, but a used motor oil finish might be really nice.

I think I found my long lost DeWalt drill, however...
 
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bolensboneyard

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Mighty fine cart you have there sir! And all found material:rocker::rocker:

It does not even need a finish to be durable for several years, but a used motor oil finish might be really nice.

I think I found my long lost DeWalt drill, however...

Thanks Andy. Some more progress and finished product. Made two more clamps for the axel. Check out the L brackets plus the sides are screwed together with 2 inch deck screws. Bigger than the ones in my ankle. :lol_hitti
 

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bolensboneyard

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Rainy day project started. This is a bearing block for a Bolens three point hitch. I picked up another hitch that is half there and someone has cobbled together some of the missing pieces. Below you will see the working! attempt which is quite creative. A block from my complete hitch is also pictured. What you see also is the start of a replacement. It will be slightly different in that I have not been able to figure out why the clearance has been given below the counter bore? I am familiar with this tractor and its implements and will cut it only if I see a need. As the original is forged it may have something to do with the process?
 

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bolensboneyard

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I couldn't see the pictures well enough to know what you were talking about on clearance under the counter bore. Which one is the correct one?

Oops! It's on the flip side of the original which is not pictured. I was on a hot tin roof yesterday in the sun for about four hours once it came out of the clouds so nothing got done in the shop. Trying to fix the leaks in my machine shop. Got tired of waiting for the roofer. I know it was stupid but it caught me right in the middle of the job. I didn't expect it to come out we haven't seen it in days. Anyway, as I survived the brain cooking, but didn't get the job completely done, I am going to stay off of the roof today and give my heart a rest. I will try to remember to get a picture of the back side.
 

oldironfarmer

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Oops! It's on the flip side of the original which is not pictured. I was on a hot tin roof yesterday in the sun for about four hours once it came out of the clouds so nothing got done in the shop. Trying to fix the leaks in my machine shop. Got tired of waiting for the roofer. I know it was stupid but it caught me right in the middle of the job. I didn't expect it to come out we haven't seen it in days. Anyway, as I survived the brain cooking, but didn't get the job completely done, I am going to stay off of the roof today and give my heart a rest. I will try to remember to get a picture of the back side.

Did you find problems with the roof? I have a few seeps which I can't identify from above, pulling nails and installing screws seems to be the fix for mine. Was Ginny supervising your roof time?
 
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bolensboneyard

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Did you find problems with the roof? I have a few seeps which I can't identify from above, pulling nails and installing screws seems to be the fix for mine. Was Ginny supervising your roof time?

The one job I hired someone to do was done backwards. Panels in problem areas were put on upside down. Ripping them off was not an option. I have plenty of good used tin so I covered the area in question with that. If it works I will do the other areas. Nothing else has not even flexseal type coatings. The ankle works great. Ginny was up there with me! I was sure to quit once the sun got up. Need a heavy rain now to test.
 

oldironfarmer

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The one job I hired someone to do was done backwards. Panels in problem areas were put on upside down. Ripping them off was not an option. I have plenty of good used tin so I covered the area in question with that. If it works I will do the other areas. Nothing else has not even flexseal type coatings. The ankle works great. Ginny was up there with me! I was sure to quit once the sun got up. Need a heavy rain now to test.

Pretty much my experience in hiring stuff done. Except for concrete, I usually get a better job than I can do. And now my part time helper is doubling my capacity to get things done.:rocker:
 

krcoomer

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Bobby:

I just finished reading your thread and you have a great setup. Reminds me of Andy's place with your various buildings to use as shop space for different things. You just need to get Ginny a caboose!

As for your roof leaks, I have a product recommendation that is not the cheapest, but the best sealant I have ever used. It is a product from BASF called Sonolastic. On a clean surface it will only come off by cutting. The first time we used it I took a piece of trim coil that we laid a bead on and put it in the freezer for a few days. At about -8 F it was still flexible and I believe it is UV rated.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Bobby:

I just finished reading your thread and you have a great setup. Reminds me of Andy's place with your various buildings to use as shop space for different things. You just need to get Ginny a caboose!

As for your roof leaks, I have a product recommendation that is not the cheapest, but the best sealant I have ever used. It is a product from BASF called Sonolastic. On a clean surface it will only come off by cutting. The first time we used it I took a piece of trim coil that we laid a bead on and put it in the freezer for a few days. At about -8 F it was still flexible and I believe it is UV rated.

Kenny welcome aboard. I will check out the Sonolastic. It rained some today but not enough to test what's there. I planned to put sealer on so may as well use the best available. At 67 it's no fun sitting on hot tin roofs let alone walking up and down them. Still feel like you are doing it two days later. :eyecrazy: Great tip I will let you know how I make out. Bobby
 

oldironfarmer

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Do you think it's cast steel? Relief may just be to balance the casting and also limit the size of surface they had to face to get a flat face on the hole. Since there's no obstruction where it attaches seems reasonable to not remove the metal on a machined part. Perhaps it was used in a different service where a set screw or something might interfere.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Do you think it's cast steel? Relief may just be to balance the casting and also limit the size of surface they had to face to get a flat face on the hole. Since there's no obstruction where it attaches seems reasonable to not remove the metal on a machined part. Perhaps it was used in a different service where a set screw or something might interfere.

I had thought of that as it appears smoother in the machined area around the counter bore. If it is it's a good quality casting. I drilled my first hole yesterday. I tried a few of the stubby drills I got free that were closer in size to the counter bore to widen the hole but they kept binding and upon closer inspection they were out of center. The one inch hole I drilled with the largest of my good drills was sweet. 1 1/4 inch deep and curls up to one inch. I will post pictures.
 
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bolensboneyard

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^ Looking forward to it. Nothing sweeter than making curls while drilling.:thumbup:

Dan this picture is just for you. I'll post some more tomorrow of the work. These are from the one inch hole I drilled in the project and once I found the pressure on the handle sweet spot. The longest one is 18 inches 14 is the shortest.
 

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bolensboneyard

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More pictures of the drill and bore. Sorry been troubleshooting and fixing a power problem at the house. The ground fault turned out to be bad on the load side. It's a long story as you all know but it's fixed now.
 

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Bears Fan

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Love the drill press and the old drill bit case, it cleaned up nice! In fact I like the whole retro/vintage look of your garage :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
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bolensboneyard

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Love the drill press and the old drill bit case, it cleaned up nice! In fact I like the whole retro/vintage look of your garage :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thanks B F. Here are some more pictures of the inside of the tool box and the drilling of the first billet. I am trying to keep the old look but it's getting harder in the machine shop as my eyes don't see as good. Probably paint the ceiling and see if that lets me get away with leaving the rest alone for a while longer. I would love to set my wood shop up the old barn way and use just hand tools but I'm afraid that is no longer possible judging from the stiffness in the joints just sawing by hand anymore. But that doesn't mean if the opportunity arises I won't try. I would live in a cabin with a dirt floor if my wife would go for it! :dunno:
 

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oldironfarmer

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Boy you're in the chips now!!

I was getting nervous about they way you had that chucked up in the lathe. Guess you couldn't reverse the one jaw? I was wondering why it wasn't in the mill.

I've gone over to the "no longer dark" side in my shop. The LED replacement T8 bulbs are shedding new light on my problems.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Boy you're in the chips now!!

I was getting nervous about they way you had that chucked up in the lathe. Guess you couldn't reverse the one jaw? I was wondering why it wasn't in the mill.

I've gone over to the "no longer dark" side in my shop. The LED replacement T8 bulbs are shedding new light on my problems.

Although it does look like it reversing the jaw would have still missed the flat on the end. it would have ended up on the angle and push the billet out as I tightened it (I tried it). The shimmed block worked well once I put the washer in to change the block's center of balance. I would have tacked it in but after a test run (with tapping the blocks first for security) with my face out of the way I found it to be well secured.
You may want to do some research on the LED lighting. I have read some recent reports that because of the pulse (not perceptible to the naked eye) some are getting migraine headaches from their use. Just thought I would pass it along in case you notice more headaches.
 

dlcwent

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Thanks Bobby. I'm honored that you'd post that picture just for me.:bowdown:

That's interesting about LED lights. If you remember where you found it, I'd like to read the article.
 
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bolensboneyard

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One down and one to go. I'm loving this drill press.
Not getting much done right now between the heat and my daughter being very sick. She had an operation on her esophagus ten weeks ago and should be able to eat by now but still cannot. She has had nothing that would stay down for solid food. We are looking for her to get another opinion and a doctor who will fix the problem without worrying about stepping on toes. She is an adult so my hands are tied except to pray. I know you all understand how hard it is for someone who is driven to fix broken things to sit helplessly with his hands tied.
 

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bolensboneyard

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Finally got the guards for the shaper. One is original and the other is a plastic replacement. Had to paint and machine them to install. Had a knob that fit perfect for a replacement. I also got the original switch which was missing. I installed the wire on the outside with great difficulty yesterday but intend to install inside today with greater difficulty as I do not like the looks of it the way it is.
 

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