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bolensboneyard

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I got another indexing head for the mill and tool grinder. They are extremely hard to come by and pricey. I wanted to have one set up with a chuck for odd shapes and not have to break down the set used for shafts, reams, etc. Plus its even more rare to find just the head. I was missing the special collar nut, the locking handle (shown) and misc. small hardware. Also, the gear was not right but 30t which could be used to make more gears and splines if machined to fit. The pictures shown are the original from my other head which are cast and the one I machined. Not a simple task with a metal lathe like it would be with wood. Only 1-1/4 inch long. I could have made the end more round but would have had to start with larger stock and spent way more hours than I wanted to spend for the cosmetics. It works great. I will post the rest when finished.
 

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oldironfarmer

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Pretty dandy work there, bub!:thumbup:

You're kind of handy with tools, aren't you?:beer:

Looks all freehand. Did you use to practice with Etch-A-Sketch?

That reminds me I want to make a ball turner, I'm nary as good as you freehand.:bowdown:
 
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bolensboneyard

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Pretty dandy work there, bub!:thumbup:

You're kind of handy with tools, aren't you?:beer:

Looks all freehand. Did you use to practice with Etch-A-Sketch?

That reminds me I want to make a ball turner, I'm nary as good as you freehand.:bowdown:

It is basically the same thing isn't it! I was terrible with Etch-A-Sketch.
 
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bolensboneyard

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This is the index head I just built the locking lever for. It also needed the special nut at the end and the gear had to be modified for use as it was the wrong gear. I also made the track runners for the bottom. Finding the right chuck for it at a fair price was a little tricky.
 

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bolensboneyard

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Picked up several collectable but also very useful bench top drill indexes. These are the first two. They are fractional and letter drill and fold up so the set will be portable. What I like about them, aside from they're cool, is that you can see what drill you want. The fold up kind are nice but rows are too close and you have to remove drills to see the ones behind. Many types of these were made as promotional items from twist drill companies. Costs on the low end around the same as a whole set of either from the import companies (but a world apart.) I believe atmosphere in the shop begets the mindset needed for true craftsmanship to develop and produce quality workmanship. I understand that clothes do not make the man but without them his focus drifts away from the skills he is attempting to acquire and he becomes distracted by those he might lose. :lol_hitti:lol_hitti
 

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bolensboneyard

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Two more of the drill stands I picked up last week. The one that is unmarked is Craftsman old school. The label is missing. I have one more to post. Currently working on the concrete pads for the saw mill.
 

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oldironfarmer

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Drill stands are very cool! I like the triangle design, may just have to make a few of those.

Interesting the Craftsman on has multiple 1/16" holes. You suppose the designer had a bit of a fetish and just had to make all the rows even?:lol:
 
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bolensboneyard

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Drill stands are very cool! I like the triangle design, may just have to make a few of those.

Interesting the Craftsman on has multiple 1/16" holes. You suppose the designer had a bit of a fetish and just had to make all the rows even?:lol:

Probably just figured the small ones break so easily more would be needed?????
 
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bolensboneyard

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This is the last drill stand/index. It is a match to the first one many posts ago except it has the original box and drills. It is also fractional and the first was number.
 

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bolensboneyard

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Bobby, once again they look great..:thumbup:

The stands are some thing you do not come across out here all that often..

Regards

Steve I had never seen one until I ran across the first one on an online auction. These belonged to a private collector who has since passed on.
 
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bolensboneyard

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While the old man slings 80 lb. bags of concrete around trying to get the foundations poured for the saw mill man's best friend up and goes fishing in the cement pond! :headscrat
 

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bolensboneyard

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Bobby, looking fantastic.:thumbup:

Quick question: are you putting down some gravel for your finished floor??

Regards

No floor Steve. I will use planks of oak for the loading area but wood will not likely be dried under the shed. I have a loft in my grain bin/wood shop to dry the green lumber using air warmed by the sun.
 

drivesitfar

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BB: it didn't look like you had much slope if any in your new shed, but sounds like you do. yes? when i need to pour a footing and one side is a bit deeper i just use my longer 2 or 3 foot stakes and an extra piece of form wood so i can pour in more cement. if you don't have long stakes i've used pieces of rebar or maybe a few big rocks to support the extra big form.

good luck and what you've done looks great.

is all the wood you cut going to be for your own personal use or are you going to mill wood for friends and neighbors too?

hoping it warms up for you cause I'm not a fan of working in the cold either.
 
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bolensboneyard

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BB: it didn't look like you had much slope if any in your new shed, but sounds like you do. yes? when i need to pour a footing and one side is a bit deeper i just use my longer 2 or 3 foot stakes and an extra piece of form wood so i can pour in more cement. if you don't have long stakes i've used pieces of rebar or maybe a few big rocks to support the extra big form.

good luck and what you've done looks great.

is all the wood you cut going to be for your own personal use or are you going to mill wood for friends and neighbors too?

hoping it warms up for you cause I'm not a fan of working in the cold either.

Thanks drives. No wood for other reasons. I do not want the county taxing me for a business and logs that come in from wherever can and frequently to have nails, bullets, scrap iron etc. and can ruin a blade in short order. Most of these larger trees come from someone's door yard and have had tree houses, basketball hoops, climbing boards, barbed wire and who knows what else in them. I prefer to saw grown timber, unless someone gives me a large piece of walnut. Then it may be worth it to pay for a new set of teeth for the saw blade.
 
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bolensboneyard

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I figured you'd put in a sawdust floor, just like in an old bar.:bounce:

sawdust! We can use that for compost, chicken house floor/compost, stuff pillows, speedy dry, not to mention bread when times get really tough. I would have expected you Andy of all people to understand hard times. By the way, can you cast tin foil? The ball I have been saving is getting too big for the pantry closet. :lol_hitti
 
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bolensboneyard

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Still have to form the top of the blocks I laid yesterday but this is the last pad for the mill foundation (unless I messed up somewhere). Check out the line on the side. Pads are 40 inches wide and the foundation is 38 inches wide.
 

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drivesitfar

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BB: i like the way you made 2 pours to get all your cement pads level as the ground sloped. it looks like maybe you had some open concrete blocks you used as a sort of form for the lower level that you set them in cement?

IMPRESSIVE work and i hope they are all where they need to be for your steel supports of your new mill.

as your friends are hearing and knowing about your new (maybe older than we are) mill are the requests to cut their wood piling up yet?

have a great day!!
 
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bolensboneyard

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BB: i like the way you made 2 pours to get all your cement pads level as the ground sloped. it looks like maybe you had some open concrete blocks you used as a sort of form for the lower level that you set them in cement?

IMPRESSIVE work and i hope they are all where they need to be for your steel supports of your new mill.

as your friends are hearing and knowing about your new (maybe older than we are) mill are the requests to cut their wood piling up yet?

have a great day!!

No requests drives. I hope they are in the right place too. I measured them several times but when you are checking pieces that bolt together and everything is not consistent that can be a problem you don't see. I did mortar the blocks together and fill them with sand leaving recesses in the corner blocks only on the last pad with a mound of mortar in the center more to keep from shifting than anything else. They are set roughly every five feet and each pour is about 200 lbs fully covering the blocks surface. It is doubtful any movement will occur as the ground will stay dry except possibly toward the last one. I also intend to backfill up to the 4 inch pad with dirt.
 

oldironfarmer

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Several species, oak with tannic acid especially, will run a blue stain in the wood from iron bearing imbedments. You've probably seen the blue color from laying a tool on fresh cut oak. So if you see any blue while you're cutting STOP!!

You just found where grandpa left his dad's hatchet way back when.:lol_hitti

Obviously you won't always see it, but many times you will and know the next pass may hit iron. You can sometimes see it on the end of the log, especially if it is fresh cut, a reason to take your chainsaw and square up the log before sawing.

Keep the speed up and your teeth sharp:rocker:
 

drivesitfar

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Andy: i'm glad you explained that cause I thought i'd look up BLUEWOOD in the Urban Dictionary and here's what it said:

Similiar to wood grain, but its blue instead of red.
Man hold up, that boy got bluewood on the steering wheel and dash. Now that's pimping.

I had a hunch it had to do with metal (or worse) in a tree the way you put it, but interesting that there is actually BLUEWOOD that is special too.

BB: when you start setting up the mill what kind of bolts are you going to use to bolt it into your new foundation pads or are you planning on the weight just holding it in place?
 

Bears Fan

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Oh man! I love those vintage drill index's...I would love to pick some of those up! They are just cool collectibles :thumbup: :thumbup:

Nice job on the cement pads too! They look nice and straight to me :)
 
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bolensboneyard

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Several species, oak with tannic acid especially, will run a blue stain in the wood from iron bearing imbedments. You've probably seen the blue color from laying a tool on fresh cut oak. So if you see any blue while you're cutting STOP!!

You just found where grandpa left his dad's hatchet way back when.:lol_hitti

Obviously you won't always see it, but many times you will and know the next pass may hit iron. You can sometimes see it on the end of the log, especially if it is fresh cut, a reason to take your chainsaw and square up the log before sawing.

Keep the speed up and your teeth sharp:rocker:

Andy you threw me off. In this part of the country it's black that will show iron and most other metals. Interesting.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Andy: i'm glad you explained that cause I thought i'd look up BLUEWOOD in the Urban Dictionary and here's what it said:

Similiar to wood grain, but its blue instead of red.
Man hold up, that boy got bluewood on the steering wheel and dash. Now that's pimping.

I had a hunch it had to do with metal (or worse) in a tree the way you put it, but interesting that there is actually BLUEWOOD that is special too.

BB: when you start setting up the mill what kind of bolts are you going to use to bolt it into your new foundation pads or are you planning on the weight just holding it in place?

drives just the weight. If I bolt it down some county official will start calling it a structure and want to micromanage the whole project.
 
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bolensboneyard

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Oh man! I love those vintage drill index's...I would love to pick some of those up! They are just cool collectibles :thumbup: :thumbup:

Nice job on the cement pads too! They look nice and straight to me :)

Thanks Bears. I will see the guy I got them from next Saturday. I know he has more some the same some different. Let me know by PM if you want more information. Bobby
 
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