Most Common Range: Hex / Torx on Cars?

[oldschoolcraft]

I have pretty complete sets of hex and Torx in a large range of sizes, because I do a lot of stuff outside of cars, and smaller sizes are common in gunsmithing or small electronics.

When it comes to common cars and pickup trucks, what is the range that is most common? 10mm to 19mm is the most common regular sockets used on cars. Maybe add 8mm (skip 9). What is the equivalent range for Torx and Hex?

I'm not asking what is every possible Torx and male hex one might need to work on any car. I want to know what is the most common range, starting/stopping.

Reason for asking is putting together a junkyard box kit that I have to carry by hand.

 

[lynx40]

Hi 20,25,30,40 torx , 5,6,8,10 mm hex

 

[toolenthusiast]

Hi 20,25,30,40 torx , 5,6,8,10 mm hex

This is a reasonable list but as soon as you hit a T15 on a Chevy wheel liner you’re driving back home from the junkyard to grab one.

Hex and torx bits don’t weigh much. The junkyards in my area will let you use a wheelbarrow for $1, if not for free.

When I head to the junkyard I’m either taking a complete 1/4” drive set or I’m taking a cordless angle grinder. Depends what sort of work you’re doing and what sort of car

 

[lynx40]

Also m8 ,m10 triple square ( xzn ) mainly on european

 

[bobg03]

Aren't some seatbelts a T50, T55, or T60, I have them in a drawer and that's the only reason I can think of for even buying them. Many years ago I recall having to use them on an 85 Suburban and a 98 Cherokee to remove a seatbelt for some unknown reason.

Yes to a T15 GM was notorious for using these where it was least expected.
Also on older GMs, Clutch heads of various sizes stumped me in the past.

For a junkyard bag I would use drivers not bits on the smaller sizes, less apt to lose one.

 

[dnschmidt]

Hi 20,25,30,40 torx , 5,6,8,10 mm hex

You've got it right but you need to add T15. If you're working on Eurotrash you'll need to add XZN and inverted Torx. But, anybody with a brain avoids Eurotrash.

 

[jayemm]

Aren't some seatbelts a T50, T55, or T60, I have them in a drawer and that's the only reason I can think of for even buying them. Many years ago I recall having to use them on an 85 Suburban and a 98 Cherokee to remove a seatbelt for some unknown reason.

Yes to a T15 GM was notorious for using these where it was least expected.
Also on older GMs, Clutch heads of various sizes stumped me in the past.

For a junkyard bag I would use drivers not bits on the smaller sizes, less apt to lose one.

Amen, and T15 shows up a lot of places besides automotive. I have a T55 socket somewhere in my toolbox from probably 20 or more years ago that IIRC was bought for brake caliper mounting bolts. Not sure if I ever did use it.

 

[charbar]

My 'go to' sets in my box are from T6 to T60 and 4-10mm for hex. I work on mostly domestics plus farm equipment. Can't say specifically what I use all the sizes for but I will say all of them are all well used.

It might be a little more bulky than you want to deal with but the Sunex 3569 kit is a pretty complete set of torx/TR torx, hex, inverted torx and triple squares. It would about cover most anything you are going to be doing in a junkyard. Only goes from 20-55 in regular torx but it goes down to a 10 in the tamper resistant torx bits.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

I think tamper resistant Torx is just Torx with a hole in it. I think it's backwards compatible with regular Torx. I assume the only reason to not exclusively use tamper resistant Torx is that it's probably not as durable as regular Torx. Is that a correct guess?

 

[lynx40]

Sorry forgot T15 Also got T55 used on my Landrover Discovery, Now i own VW Touareg it's every torx / spline ( xzn ) and hex what ever happened to normal nut and bolt

 

[AJHD]

Like so much else in automotive tool world, it's a never-ending ******* rabbit hole...

1. Metric hex
2. SAE hex
3. Security/tamper resistant hex in both SAE and Metric
4. Damaged/rounded fastener versions of hex in both SAE and Metric
5. Holding function hex in both SAE and Metric
6. plus stubby, shallow and "long" versions of everything above

1. "Standard" Torx (aka star bits)
2. E-torx/External/inverted torx (deep and shallow versions)
3. Torx plus (both "standard" and external)
4. Security/tamper resistant torx
5. "Mortorq" (yet another version of torx)
6. Holding function torx
7. Damaged/rounded fastener versions of torx
8. plus stubby, shallow and "long" versions of everything above

Don't forget about triple square/XZN/spline either.

There are also impact and chrome versions of everything listed above, and whatever the hell else I'm forgetting.
It's mind numbing. Just when you think that you have "all the tools you need", NOPE!

 

[bcradio]

Like so much else in automotive tool world, it's a never-ending ******* rabbit hole...

1. Metric hex
2. SAE hex
3. Security/tamper resistant hex in both SAE and Metric
4. Damaged/rounded fastener versions of hex in both SAE and Metric
5. Holding function hex in both SAE and Metric
6. plus stubby, shallow and "long" versions of everything above

1. "Standard" Torx (aka star bits)
2. E-torx/External/inverted torx (deep and shallow versions)
3. Torx plus (both "standard" and external)
4. Security/tamper resistant torx
5. "Mortorq" (yet another version of torx)
6. Holding function torx
7. Damaged/rounded fastener versions of torx
8. plus stubby, shallow and "long" versions of everything above

Don't forget about triple square/XZN/spline either.

There are also impact and chrome versions of everything listed above, and whatever the hell else I'm forgetting.
It's mind numbing. Just when you think that you have "all the tools you need", NOPE!

Excellent starter list for a junkyard kit

 

[charbar]

I think tamper resistant Torx is just Torx with a hole in it. I think it's backwards compatible with regular Torx. I assume the only reason to not exclusively use tamper resistant Torx is that it's probably not as durable as regular Torx. Is that a correct guess?

Correct.

 

[tamaraw]

I'm not asking what is every possible Torx and male hex one might need to work on any car. I want to know what is the most common range, starting/stopping.

Reason for asking is putting together a junkyard box kit that I have to carry by hand.

This is a nonsensical question. Know what you want before going to the yard and bring the appropriate tools.

Different makes will have different sizes and types of fasteners, let alone different jobs on the same vehicle.

You can't carry everything and a 90% kit isn't useful either when half of it is dead weight and what you need is inevitably in that missing 10%.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

This is a nonsensical question. Know what you want before going to the yard and bring the appropriate tools.

Different makes will have different sizes and types of fasteners, let alone different jobs on the same vehicle.

You can't carry everything and A 90% kit isn't useful either when half of it is dead weight and what you need is inevitably in that missing 10%.

I've never been to a junkyard, so I'm relying on other's experience. My thoughts are that I should have a base kit that I always bring, and then adding to that, I bring some additional car-specific tools knowing what I'm targeting.

If I'm going after some Honda parts, I probably only "need" 8-10-12-14-17-19 but to me it doesnt make sense to yoink those specific sockets and wrenches into a temporary toolbox. What if I come across an aftermarket fastener outside JIS standards or one that's worn or swollen?

To me it makes sense to have 10mm to 19mm with no skips in shallow and deep 3/8" sockets plus a combination wrench set in 10mm to 19mm. Probably 8mm too. As a baseline kit that I always have with me.

Then if I know I'm going to take something off then suspension that's 22mm, I bring 1/2" drive and 22mm + a 22mm wrench.

My thoughts are there might be some equivalent in Torx and male hex where having the common range as part of the 90% base kit. The goal is to keep the base kit relatively compact, maybe not even having deep sockets in the base kit.

I see your point about the 90% kit being half dead weight. I think for my first few times there, it might make sense to err on the side of too much than too little. Do I want to be frustrated by not having a tool, or do I want to carry around too heavy of a box

 

[Dave455]

The way to work it out, is to think which bolts you are likely to be working on, and select sizes accordingly.

Taking your socket range of 10 to 19 mm, those are sizes that fit bolts of 6, 8, 10 and 12 mm (with a few spare sizes, as the metric standards are all different).

Those same sizes, in cap screws, will have recesses of 5, 6, 8 and 10mm, and in grub screws, 3,4, 5 and 6mm.

Many things on cars will use non standard sizes (e.g, 7mm on brake calipers) but basically that’s your range, 3 to 10mm. You will sometimes find bigger of course, but you find bigger than 19mm hex bolts too!

You can repeat the exercise for, Torx, XZN, or whatever!

 

[dchawk81]

I've never been to a junkyard, so I'm relying on other's experience. My thoughts are that I should have a base kit that I always bring, and then adding to that, I bring some additional car-specific tools knowing what I'm targeting.

When do you plan to go to a junk yard? And what car will you be shopping for?

When I go to a junk yard it's to buy parts I've already removed so I already know what tools to bring.

 

[Schurkey]

Aren't some seatbelts a T50, T55, or T60

Years before "Torx" was invented, GM was using a similar-but-different 6-lobe female-recess screw head on door strikers and seat-belt bolts.

They are NOT interchangeable with Torx, but I'm sure folks have tried and consequently damaged either the bolts or the tools, or both.

The ONLY place I'm aware of to get the GM-specific, Torx-like tool is Snap-On. I suppose Kent-Moore sold them; I don't remember 'em from Mac, Matco, or Cornwell but maybe I missed them in the catalog.

Torx is more rounded, the GM tool is more angular.



The "peaks" of the Torx tool are machined from the corners of the hex stock. The "peaks" of the GM tool are machined from the flats of the hex stock.

 

[nicks78camaro]

Years before "Torx" was invented, GM was using a similar-but-different 6-lobe female-recess screw head on door strikers and seat-belt bolts.

They are NOT interchangeable with Torx, but I'm sure folks have tried and consequently damaged either the bolts or the tools, or both.

The ONLY place I'm aware of to get the GM-specific, Torx-like tool is Snap-On. I suppose Kent-Moore sold them; I don't remember 'em from Mac, Matco, or Cornwell but maybe I missed them in the catalog.

Torx is more rounded, the GM tool is more angular.



The "peaks" of the Torx tool are machined from the corners of the hex stock. The "peaks" of the GM tool are machined from the flats of the hex stock.

I can't tell, is that torx plus?

 

[bobg03]

@oldschoolcraft if'n y'all get a Snap-On Pit cart y'all could bring everything ever needed, the pnuematic tires roll pretty good.

 

[Schurkey]

I can't tell, is that torx plus?

No. It's not a "Torx" anything. Far as I know, it's a GM exclusive design, in only one size.

 

[908Jim]

I think tamper resistant Torx is just Torx with a hole in it. I think it's backwards compatible with regular Torx. I assume the only reason to not exclusively use tamper resistant Torx is that it's probably not as durable as regular Torx. Is that a correct guess?

Tamper resistant torx are slightly weaker due to the hollow ID. Shear stress is zero at the axis of the bit but increases as you move out radially so TR feature does weaken the bit slightly. Apples to apples, TR torx can't handle the same torque regular torx can. Based on the minor diameter of outer profile, the shear stress for a given torque is about 10% higher in TR torx than a standard torx. There are a lot of old threads on here but the general rule is use the TR only when you need to.

Correct.

See above

Back to OP's question, T27 Torx show up a lot on VW/Audi and a lot of cheap sets leave them out.

 

[mrborohachi]

Back to OP's question, T27 Torx show up a lot on VW/Audi and a lot of cheap sets leave them out.

Don't forget about modern Harleys that use T27.

This is a great VESSEL set currently at an insane price of $32 for everything it covers. I bought one last night on Amazon. Bits are kind of on the short side, but they are longer than normal 1/4 hex bits.

Including +1, +2, +3, SL4, SL6, SL8, SQ1, SQ2, SQ3, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40, PZ1, PZ2, PZ3, H3, H4, H5, H6, H3/32, H7/64, H1/8, H9/64, H3/16, H7/32, H1/4"& 1/4" Hex Bit Holder
VESSEL IMPACT BALL™ Torsion Bit 30+1 PC. Set in SLIDE CASE No.IB31P02U Made in Japan by VESSEL

 

[VolvoRyan]

Make sure you buy tools for fasteners you'll never see. Like for cars you'll never own.

-Ryan

 

[dchawk81]

Make sure you buy tools for fasteners you'll never see. Like for cars you'll never own.

-Ryan

Agreed.

 

[drmarkr]

Geezus.... are we doing this **** again?

 

[tamaraw]

I've never been to a junkyard,

so I'm relying on other's experience.

Years ago, I started by bringing sets in blow-molded cases. That worked ok, but it really was a lot of weight to carry out into the yard and made things difficult if I didn't have a second person. Remember that you generally have to carry your tools and whatever you have pulled back in one go, you don't want to leave your stuff sitting out there.

My Hazet assistent (telescoping trolley) already houses my most commonly used auto tools and easily fits in my trunk. Sure, that's convenient, but you can do basically the same with a few cardboard boxes to organize your trunk space. Then I bring a smaller tote and grab whatever else I might need for a particular job from my other box.

When you get to the yard, you don't know what's still on the car, what's been taken, what sort of shape it's in, etc., so I'll walk out there empty handed first just to scope out the stuff I'm interested in and see where it is.

Once I know what I'm pulling, I go back to my car, put the stuff I need into the tote, and head out into the yard. Honestly, I used to do this with cardboard boxes or random plastic tubs but something with a central handle is easier to carry and leaves more hands free. Something like the examples below is quite cheap and is probably the best junk yard tool.




If I'm doing a couple different things (maybe some small interior stuff and also some heavy suspension components), I'll split it up into multiple trips. So maybe I'll start with the pry tools and 1/4" stuff first to grab the interior bits and bring them back to start a pile by the checkout counter. Then I can go out to my car, swap out to impacts or 1/2" stuff for the suspension and add to the pile until I am ready to check out. There is just no reason to carry everything with you all at the same time. Also, the fewer things you have on you, the easier it is to keep track of your stuff and not misplace it.

TL;DR
#1 Plan ahead what you will be doing
#2 Bring as much as you like in your trunk
#3 Perform recon
#4 Carry only what you need inside the yard; don't be afraid to make multiple trips

 

[dchawk81]

Geezus.... are we doing this **** again?

Forever and ever, Amen.

 

[milky2k]

I wish these posts would stop. Someone has already put the most common sizes together. Just buy one of these and be done.

Duralast Torx Bit Socket Set 12 Piece

Shop for Duralast Torx Bit Socket Set 12 Piece with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

 

[Hakeem]

Look on YouTube beforehand to see how the part is removed and with what fasteners, and you’ll know exactly which tools to bring. The days of going in blind and bringing a whole bunch of tools because you won’t know what you might encounter, are over.

 

[908Jim]

Look on YouTube beforehand to see how the part is removed and with what fasteners, and you’ll know exactly which tools to bring. The days of going in blind and bringing a whole bunch of tools because you won’t know what you might encounter, are over.

Until you find yourself fixing things with aftermarket or replacement OE parts that mixed up ISO/DIN/JIS fasteners and the 12mm is now a 13MM or that Triple Square is now a Torx.

 

[AEAdam]

These junkyard sets you guys talk about are roughly what I carry in a HF riggers bag (white canvas, open topped) in my truck all the time, along with a code reader. Sockets, ratchet wrenches, pliers, screwdriver, plastic prybars, bluepoint code reader, hemostat for pulling fuses. I also have stuff like zip ties, electrical tape, a couple of most modern types of fuses etc.

I don’t think it hurts to not optimize. I think I only have 3/8” sockets, but I have a full set, 8-19 I have a full set of ****** one piece torx bit sockets, 15-55? Allen bit sockets 3-10? Something like that. Just std sets. If you were backpacking or cycling, maybe it would make sense to leave a few sockets behind. For sure God punishes those who leave sockets behind to save weight.

My reality is, I’ve rarely fixed my car by the side of the road. But I have helped others, or used these tools when I was traveling for other things. Even helping coworkers with their cars in the parking lot at work. I wouldn’t over think optimizing this sort of stuff. The tools we’re talking about don’t take up a lot of space and don’t weigh much.

 

[bobg03]

Wondering if'n some folks think junkyard shopping is akin to a trip to the hardware store, if I'm going to a junkyard I know what I want there.

The best ones are where the parts are already pulled and in stock on a shelf or the employees pull it when you want it, that's a dead horse at least where I am.

 

[dchawk81]

Wondering if'n some folks think junkyard shopping is akin to a trip to the hardware store, if I'm going to a junkyard I know what I want there.

The best ones are where the parts are already pulled and in stock on a shelf or the employees pull it when you want it, that's a dead horse at least where I am.

Gonna go browse the junkyard, see what's on sale.

 

[danielbuck]

Aren't some seatbelts a T50, T55, or T60, I have them in a drawer and that's the only reason I can think of for even buying them. Many years ago I recall having to use them on an 85 Suburban and a 98 Cherokee to remove a seatbelt for some unknown reason.

Yes to a T15 GM was notorious for using these where it was least expected.
Also on older GMs, Clutch heads of various sizes stumped me in the past.

For a junkyard bag I would use drivers not bits on the smaller sizes, less apt to lose one.

TJ jeeps (and probably others) use a T50 or T55 for seatbelts, bumper, and I think parts of the B pillar and a few other places.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Forever and ever, Amen.

I wish the OP would do at least a little research. YouTube will tell you what to do to get the part undone, and what tools you need. Buy those tools. Put them in a bag. Done. Worth pointing out that it's kinda nuts to show up in the barren Mad Max wasteland that is a salvage yard with thousands of dollars worth of fancy tools. "Contingency" is the result of poor planning.

Wondering if'n some folks think junkyard shopping is akin to a trip to the hardware store, if I'm going to a junkyard I know what I want there.

The best ones are where the parts are already pulled and in stock on a shelf or the employees pull it when you want it, that's a dead horse at least where I am.

Gonna go browse the junkyard, see what's on sale.

The yards are a PITA nowadays. Very expensive. I love paying late-model prices for 30-40 year old parts. But.... unobtanium has its value, I suppose.

If you're not there within a few days of the car showing up, the collateral damage to other parts wipes them out right quick. I've left empty handed too many times.

Much better to find an outfit on the internet that disassembles what'cha got. They're usually cheaper, take requests, and save you a trip to the yard.

Of course, this assumes you can't get a new part. New parts make a lot more sense in almost all of the cases.

-Ryan

 

[dchawk81]

I wish the OP would do at least a little research. YouTube will tell you what to do to get the part undone, and what tools you need. Buy those tools. Put them in a bag. Done. Worth pointing out that it's kinda nuts to show up in the barren Mad Max wasteland that is a salvage yard with thousands of dollars worth of fancy tools. "Contingency" is the result of poor planning.






The yards are a PITA nowadays. Very expensive. I love paying late-model prices for 30-40 year old parts. But.... unobtanium has its value, I suppose.

If you're not there within a few days of the car showing up, the collateral damage to other parts wipes them out right quick. I've left empty handed too many times.

Much better to find an outfit on the internet that disassembles what'cha got. They're usually cheaper, take requests, and save you a trip to the yard.

Of course, this assumes you can't get a new part. New parts make a lot more sense in almost all of the cases.

-Ryan

I really don't even go anymore. Not saying I won't ever again but I haven't been in at least a few years. It's kind of a **** process that I don't miss. Rather just order the part and have it delivered. Preferably new, but most junkyards will accommodate.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I’d say 8-19 including 9 if you work on Fords. My Escape has 7 and 9mm hex for the brake calipers. If you plan on needing something on an older GM product especially Silverado and Sierra you’ll want SAE especially 3/8 for the brake calipers too. T55,T60 for seatbelts and seat bolts. T70 is used sometimes on Subaru.

 

[WildBill]

I love going to pull-n-save, unfortunately or maybe fortunately the two closest to me are 90 miles away. I bring a ton of tools and leave most in my car so I can grab them if needed. I usually have a list but also end up grabbing random cool stuff. One of them has cars going back to the 40s and I'm a pack-rat, so I often get neat old stuff I wasn't planning on grabbing.

 

[tiredoldironworker]

When I go to the boneyard I have found that backpack tool bags work very well.