Most Compact Right-Angle Drill?

[Bull]

As some of you might know from another thread of mine, I have a couple broken bolts to deal with in my cylinder head, still installed in my Roadmaster. The exhaust manifold bolts broke flush or just below the surface of the head. The manifold has been removed.

The space is tight, with a steering shaft in the way. I was going to try to weld a nut and washer onto the bolt to remove it, but I loaned my welder out some time ago and my buddy still needs it for a project. So, my other buddy suggested an EZ-Out or left-hand drill bit. It might be worth a shot.

I will need a very compact right-angle drill if I am to have any hope of drilling into the bolt with any degree of straightness. Can anyone suggest a very compact model?

Than you.

 

[toolaholic]

I have a bosch 1132vsr. Head is about 3 1/2 inches thick. Nice drill w/ speed control. I got mine for around $150 in around 2003 when woodworkers world went out of business. They are about $240 now on amazon. Aluminum gearbox gets pretty toasty during extended drilling.

 

[DARKSCOPE001]

can you use air tools? How about something like this? http://www.panamericantool.com/nova-system-pneumatic-tools/nova-standard/novar-standard-motors.html

With this head attachment. http://www.panamericantool.com/nova-system-pneumatic-tools/nova-standard/novar-90-angle-head.html

Granted that set is very expensive but if you ever find yourself needing an angle drill again it would be very usefull. and you can change out the heads. and drill motors.

All the structures guys where I work are raving about Pan American air tools. you can get cheeper stuff tho. used Dotco and Sioux.

You will need to get youself a few threaded shank drill bits but when it comes to angle drills that use threaded shanks your not going to get any more low profile than that.

Good Luck
Sean

 

[ADSR]

What about this with a hex head drill bit?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[redwrench60]

Nothing more compact than a right angle air drill. I've had this one for years. It's reversable and reliable. Shop around, you might find it cheaper elsewhere.

Edit: the first person in the reviews list even mentions drilling broken exhaust manifold bolts with it!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRMZG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Conductor562]

Pnumatic might be the way to go. I know you have the ability to run it after the impact thread that got railroaded. If you're looking to go electric, Milwaukee has the 0370-20 that is very small at the head:

Also from Milwaukee, the 49-22-8510:

At around $50 it's a cheap option. I haven't used it personally, so I cant speak to how effective it would be for precision applications like you have on your hands.

As for the easy outs with left hand bits, I have this Irwin 11119 set:

I know a lot of people hate easy outs, but I'm 2 for 2 with this set. last time the bolt came out with the drill bit by itself. Thinking I gave around $30 for it.

 

[CWP1616L]

Sioux 1AM1551 might work.

http://www.browntool.com/Default.as...57&List=1&SortField=ProductName,ProductNumber

 

[boojum]

Remove the wheel then the inner fender. If you need to you can also remove the steering shaft. My car needed a little penetrating oil to free up the shaft. I did this on my fist b-body but I still found that I had to use a long drill bit. After I broke the extractor I got out the stick wlder. Host or go to a mod day and ask someone to bring a welder.

Plan on replacing the mainfold to cat pipe studs. OEM are metric on cat side, std on the manifold side. 3/8-16 will work fine since you'll be replacing the nuts anyway. Have all new gaskets on hand also.

 

[rharman]

Check these out.....

http://www.tightfittools.net/

 

[Bull]

Thanks for the options, gentlemen. I do like the pneumatic option.

That Sioux looks tiny and I love the COO; but for the number of times I will use it I can't justify the cost.

So, what's the deal? I choose a drill, use some left-hand bits like these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBJG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

and then use one of those extractors that people always talk about snapping off?

 

[Conductor562]

Yep. Any idea what the torque spec is on the snapped bolts? If it's a lower spec they may come out with the bit alone.

 

[tyheuser]

Ive replaced a countless amount of broken manifold bolts on all the newer domestic aluminum headed trucks at work, they like to warp there manifolds and snap the end bolts and about half the time there flush with the head. If you have access to a welder unhook the battery and weld a little bead on the end of the stud to build up little bit of the stud on the end of it, Use a shallow nut thats a little bigger then the stud your putting it over and hold it in place with some vice grips and weld it on, spin it out! It makes the job so much easier you can even do it if its flush with the manifold and not remove the manifold if its got a multi layer steel gasket they will usually reseal right up. I used to drill them and extract them and always used reversible drill bits hoping they would catch and spin them out which happens once in a while but some need a lot of torque to come out especially GM LS motors they have some nasty Loctite on them. I spent hours drilling bolts on some trucks with broken bolts on both sides drilling with a 3/8 right angle cornwell drill and theres always a chance you don't get it centered and you screw up the threads and have to tap a bigger bolt or heli coil it or even worse snap a extractor and if that doesn't come out with a pick or spring tool, have fun drilling that out! Drilling bolts can **** id rather avoid it!

The torque spec isn't going to matter the heads snapped off its gonna matter how much corrosion, exhaust carbon, rust and whatever nasty stuff gets in these holes.

 

[Bull]

Can the welding method be used if an extractor gets broken off in there? In other words does weld stick to that kind of metal?

I guess I can wait for my friend to give me my welder back. I'm impatient to get this thing out of there, though, and get my engine back together. However, I have never actually USED the welder or welded anything so I'll need to practice.

 

[tyheuser]

Ive never tried to weld to a broken extractor id imagine it could work. It will stick to a extractor I've welded a extension on one before.

 

[Monte]

Fein ASzxeu 636-1

 

[claymont]

REMOVE STUD TIG WELD

Can the welding method be used if an extractor gets broken off in there? In other words does weld stick to that kind of metal?

I guess I can wait for my friend to give me my welder back. I'm impatient to get this thing out of there, though, and get my engine back together. However, I have never actually USED the welder or welded anything so I'll need to practice.

 

[Delray]

If the bolt broke off when being tightened a left hand bit may take it out.

I've rolled out larger bolts with a pointed chisel as long as they were not frozen in the threads.

Now without seeing what position you are in and if the bolt broke because it was frozen in the head you may save time and grief by pulling the head.

 

[Ign]

Can the welding method be used if an extractor gets broken off in there? In other words does weld stick to that kind of metal?

I guess I can wait for my friend to give me my welder back. I'm impatient to get this thing out of there, though, and get my engine back together. However, I have never actually USED the welder or welded anything so I'll need to practice.

Anything's possible, but I'm gonna say no. The extractor will be brittle and will not weld well, and even if it does it will not hold up well after being heated and will just snap below the weld.

I hate EZ outs, I only use LH bits.

If you get an air drill, get a reversible unit. The cheap ones are not. This is very important.

Is the broken fastener sticking up proud? If it's in a counterbored recess you can make a sleeve (or have one made) that'll make sure your bits start and stay relatively centered.

edit: for that matter, some concept could apply if there's enough of it protruding: sleeve over fastener, drill into it; one end of sleeve can be smaller ID for a smaller drill bit.

 

[larry_g]

Left hand drill bit

Near the bottom of page above are listed left hand screw machine bits. I would highly recommend the screw machine length as they are stiffer and also will assist you in getting into your tight space. The CL brand are also top tier quality bits.

Good luck

lg
no neat sig line

 

[tncatadjuster]

Wait and go the weld route, I hate drilling them out.

 

[trackwelder]

I like to use the welder method whenever possible.
If I need to drill this set works great,especially the drill guides.
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/10-Screw-Extractor-Set/EN/index.htm

 

[helterskelter]

Weld a little t-handle on it . If you do drill it, I highly recommend buying high quality cobalt left hand drills from an industrial supply place. Like MSC or McMaster. Buy 2 drills in case you burn one up. Only buy the size you need. You don't need a whole set of LH drills, they're consumables. Take your time. Chances are they're pretty seized up in there, use heat and plenty of kroil. If you break the extractor I'd just pull the head and go ahead and take it to a machine shop. You'll be ahead than trying to futz with it in the car. It's not hard to pull the head.

 

[rodm1]

Well if it's your welder tell your buddy to bring it back! I would use an air drill if you must go that way. If your skilled with a torch you could just blow it out.