Most used Ratchet

[CGarage]

For a tool forum, I am very surprised by the answers.

A great many members are stuck in the past, using tools from yesteryear.

For the SK and Craftsman crowd, it is time to spread your wings and try something new.

 

[AEAdam]

Snap On FLF80A is the one I use the most.

FLHF80A for me. It’s the first tool on most jobs. If I could only have one 3/8” ratchet, this would be it.

 

[Pexto]

For a tool forum, I am very surprised by the answers.

A great many members are stuck in the past, using tools from yesteryear.

For the SK and Craftsman crowd, it is time to spread your wings and try something new.

I get where you're coming from, I really do, but my SK roundheads will always have a place in my toolbox. Sure, they aren't the slimmest, but they are dirt cheap on the used market, they are utterly reliable, and the good ones have backdrag so low they compete with the best modern ratchets.

I have a lot of 1/4" ratchets including Snap-on, Ko-ken, and Nepros, and yet often my favorite 40970 finds its way into my hand. It's the top one - the 2nd one has more backdrag and is thus relegated to backup duties.

 

[CGarage]

I get where you're coming from, I really do, but my SK roundheads will always have a place in my toolbox. Sure, they aren't the slimmest, but they are dirt cheap on the used market, they are utterly reliable, and the good ones have backdrag so low they compete with the best modern ratchets.

I have a lot of 1/4" ratchets including Snap-on, Ko-ken, and Nepros, and yet often my favorite 40970 finds its way into my hand. It's the top one - the 2nd one has more backdrag and is thus relegated to backup duties.

I am happy I gave mine away.
Not a fan of the knurled handles and they are 1970s technology at best.
I have a few 70s era Facom ratchets that I keep and use occasionally but they are still as functional as the modern designs from the past 20 years.

 

[CGarage]

My 2024 opinion is that the future of ratchets is within the Matco style locking flex design form.

I probably use my Gearwrench 1/4 and 3/8 locking flex design ratchets more than all the others.

 

[Beerhippie]

For a tool forum, I am very surprised by the answers.

A great many members are stuck in the past, using tools from yesteryear.

For the SK and Craftsman crowd, it is time to spread your wings and try something new.

Is this where we boomers get to say: "OK, Millennial"?

 

[Pexto]

I am happy I gave mine away.
Not a fan of the knurled handles and they are 1970s technology at best.
I have a few 70s era Facom ratchets that I keep and use occasionally but they are still as functional as the modern designs from the past 20 years.

Yeah, personal preference is a funny thing. I prefer knurled handles to smooth steel, and I really dislike composite handles (with the exception of hard plastic).

I love all my Facom tools, but don't have any of their ratchets. Facom stuff is very uncommon here in the sub-Arctic USA.

 

[Yarpo]

My 2024 opinion is that the future of ratchets is within the Matco style locking flex design form.

I probably use my Gearwrench 1/4 and 3/8 locking flex design ratchets more than all the others.

My Gearwrench 1/4 Flex head 84T ratchet has been my most used for like, 7 years at this point. Insane value.
I picked up two locking Matco 88s like two years ago and a TLL72, all get used but they're unique sizes, the GW standard flex does most.

 

[mikey03]

I’m not as old or experienced and most of you guys which is why I love learning here. One thing that I find weird is when I see people got multiple ratchets in the exact same length and style and drive size like three ratchets in 1/4 that are 4 inches long with fixed heads from three different brands.

It’s one thing to have 50 ratchets because you got one of every possible style and length in all three drive sizes. Which seems like kind of lot tbh but each one is different. But to have multiple of basically the same ratchet, I don’t get it but maybe I haven’t been here long enough

I do like what someone said that their SK roundhead is more sealed than a pear head so if you are doing stuff in oil maybe you pick that one. Never thought of that.

For me though I’m trying to build out a good set and I’m picking up used ratchets when i see a good deal and I’m trying stuff out and I’m selling stuff when it becomes too much If that makes sense.

 

[CGarage]

When folks are paid on the clock, having multiple ratchets setup in advance saves time.
Also, redundancy….two is one, and one is none. If one breaks in the middle of the job, what are you going to do when you are on the clock?

 

[CGarage]

Is this where we boomers get to say: "OK, Millennial"?

I am confused. So which side of that fence are you on?
You sound ageist and my feelings are so very hurt by your unfair, discriminatory speak.

 

[CGarage]

My Gearwrench 1/4 Flex head 84T ratchet has been my most used for like, 7 years at this point. Insane value.
I picked up two locking Matco 88s like two years ago and a TLL72, all get used but they're unique sizes, the GW standard flex does most.

I Agree. I have GW sets with both the 84T and 90T. My 84T have metal handles, the 90T have comfort grips. Out of the 50+ ratchets I own, I use them the most. They are a good value. I own the top ratchets from US, Europe, Japan, Taiwan manufacturers and still favor the GW / Matco design.

 

[mikey03]

When folks are paid on the clock, having multiple ratchets setup in advance saves time.
Also, redundancy….two is one, and one is none. If one breaks in the middle of the job, what are you going to do when you are on the clock?

Oh yea that’s a good point I forget sometimes that what a pro mechanic needs is more than a guy working on his family’s cars in the driveway

 

[AEAdam]

Oh yea that’s a good point I forget sometimes that what a pro mechanic needs is more than a guy working on his family’s cars in the driveway

Disagree. A pro has a boss or a friend he works beside who have tools to lend in a pinch. If I break a tool, I could be really stuck. I fix cars on weekends. When something goes wrong I’m kinda stuffed and trying to figure out how I’m getting to work on Monday.

As I’ve mentioned, last month all 3 cars I own (shared amongst 4 people) had some sort of engine bay repair. I fixed all of them. And to do so quickly I ended up using a vacation day. Hit me all at once.

I’ve been fixing cars for 40yrs and each time I do it, it’s (usually) the first time I’ve done that job on that year make and model.

The shade tree mechanic works on the proverbial high wire without training, and without a safety net. I depend on my wits and tools and need them to be as high grade as I can afford. I do auto repairs because I can, and because it saves my family money. The jobs I did last month, documented here somewhere, saved several 1000 USDs. The stupid durango blend door was like $1000 being an interior job.

There is a notion that because I’m not a pro, I don’t, what, deserve pro tools? Can’t justify them financially (oh yes I can). I should ensure my experience is made worse by limiting the tools I buy in number or quality? Might as well tie one hand behind my back. How much harder should we make it for ourselves.

 

[CHI_Tool&Die]

Disagree. A pro has a boss or a friend he works beside who have tools to lend in a pinch. If I break a tool, I could be really stuck. I fix cars on weekends. When something goes wrong I’m kinda stuffed and trying to figure out how I’m getting to work on Monday.

As I’ve mentioned, last month all 3 cars I own (shared amongst 4 people) had some sort of engine bay repair. I fixed all of them. And to do so quickly I ended up using a vacation day. Hit me all at once.

I’ve been fixing cars for 40yrs and each time I do it, it’s (usually) the first time I’ve done that job on that year make and model.

The shade tree mechanic works on the proverbial high wire without training, and without a safety net. I depend on my wits and tools and need them to be as high grade as I can afford. I do auto repairs because I can, and because it saves my family money. The jobs I did last month, documented here somewhere, saved several 1000 USDs. The stupid durango blend door was like $1000 being an interior job.

There is a notion that because I’m not a pro, I don’t, what, deserve pro tools? Can’t justify them financially (oh yes I can). I should ensure my experience is made worse by limiting the tools I buy in number or quality? Might as well tie one hand behind my back. How much harder should we make it for ourselves.

I think you may have read too far into it. If you’re a professional tradie, you are going to need stuff no normal DYI/shadetree mechanic will ever need. I’m not talking like hand tools. I’m talking like the stuff you spend $$$ because you need it for tasks beyond a typical DYI repair. I don’t believe anyone here would say that somehow you deserve less quality items just because it isn’t your career. That’s silly if anyone is.

 

[mudflap]

Disagree. A pro has a boss or a friend he works beside who have tools to lend in a pinch. If I break a tool, I could be really stuck. I fix cars on weekends. When something goes wrong I’m kinda stuffed and trying to figure out how I’m getting to work on Monday.

As I’ve mentioned, last month all 3 cars I own (shared amongst 4 people) had some sort of engine bay repair. I fixed all of them. And to do so quickly I ended up using a vacation day. Hit me all at once.

I’ve been fixing cars for 40yrs and each time I do it, it’s (usually) the first time I’ve done that job on that year make and model.

The shade tree mechanic works on the proverbial high wire without training, and without a safety net. I depend on my wits and tools and need them to be as high grade as I can afford. I do auto repairs because I can, and because it saves my family money. The jobs I did last month, documented here somewhere, saved several 1000 USDs. The stupid durango blend door was like $1000 being an interior job.

There is a notion that because I’m not a pro, I don’t, what, deserve pro tools? Can’t justify them financially (oh yes I can). I should ensure my experience is made worse by limiting the tools I buy in number or quality? Might as well tie one hand behind my back. How much harder should we make it for ourselves.

Yea.. and us old pro chrome slingers have 7 spares of every tool. Thats why the tool truck guy avoids us. We just go on the truck to drink his coffee, soak up his A/C, and warranty broken stuff. ...

 

[908Jim]

For a tool forum, I am very surprised by the answers.

A great many members are stuck in the past, using tools from yesteryear.

For the SK and Craftsman crowd, it is time to spread your wings and try something new.

What if we already own Dual 80s, Matco 88s, GW 90s, countless other oddities, and still just like the feel and action of the round head SKs better for general purpose work?

The thinnest, finest tooth, strongest ratchet is great for dealing with the corner-case scenario, but 95% of the time, the thicker and weaker round heads with feather light backdrag are perfectly fine and (subjectively) more enjoyable to use. For quick ratcheting, the extra weight of the knurled grip is nice too. There must be a reason they're as popular as they are, despite the better value on paper that gearwrench and the like offer.

Many of us use our tools to further our hobbies, not make a living with them. And for myself, simply using them at all is a nice break from 10+ hours in an office building. A few extra minutes to switch to a breaker bar or a thin head ratchet when needed is more than fine.

 

[CGarage]

What if we already own Dual 80s, Matco 88s, GW 90s, countless other oddities, and still just like the feel and action of the round head SKs better for general purpose work?

The thinnest, finest tooth, strongest ratchet is great for dealing with the corner-case scenario, but 95% of the time, the thicker and weaker round heads with feather light backdrag are perfectly fine and (subjectively) more enjoyable to use. For quick ratcheting, the extra weight of the knurled grip is nice too. There must be a reason they're as popular as they are, despite the better value on paper that gearwrench and the like offer.

Many of us use our tools to further our hobbies, not make a living with them. And for myself, simply using them at all is a nice break from 10+ hours in an office building. A few extra minutes to switch to a breaker bar or a thin head ratchet when needed is more than fine.

I am a hobby user these days as well.
I agree with you, a breaker bar should be used first, particularly for finer teeth ratchets to prevent damage to the gear and pawl.

I think the SK ratchets are popular here more because of familiarity of yesteryear than anything else.

It seems hard to show an old dog new tricks, so to say.

And there is a large reluctance here to try new things, especially if it wasn’t made in good old USA, I have noticed.

 

[AEAdam]

I think you may have read too far into it.

Respect. This is what I was replying to.

When folks are paid on the clock, having multiple ratchets setup in advance saves time.
Also, redundancy….two is one, and one is none. If one breaks in the middle of the job, what are you going to do when you are on the clock?

Oh yea that’s a good point I forget sometimes that what a pro mechanic needs is more than a guy working on his family’s cars in the driveway

I don't agree with the message received by @mikey03. OR I agree with caveats. As we've discussed, pros need diagnostic tools, AC tools etc, that I probably don't need. But in terms of @CGarage's comment, I have and need redundancy for basic tools.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I have a Cman short handle flex head in 3/8" drive. That is the one coming out of the box first unless I know I'm going to need more leverage for a cruddy fastener.

 

[CGarage]

Self sufficiency and redundancy in systems needs to be taught far more.

 

[AEAdam]

What if we already own Dual 80s, Matco 88s, GW 90s, countless other oddities, and still just like the feel and action of the round head SKs better for general purpose work?

The thinnest, finest tooth, strongest ratchet is great for dealing with the corner-case scenario, but 95% of the time, the thicker and weaker round heads with feather light backdrag are perfectly fine and (subjectively) more enjoyable to use. For quick ratcheting, the extra weight of the knurled grip is nice too. There must be a reason they're as popular as they are, despite the better value on paper that gearwrench and the like offer.

Many of us use our tools to further our hobbies, not make a living with them. And for myself, simply using them at all is a nice break from 10+ hours in an office building. A few extra minutes to switch to a breaker bar or a thin head ratchet when needed is more than fine.

Guess I'd like to know more about what you are working on specifically so I can understand your perspective.

I personally don't own a breaker bar and don't miss them.

The mid sized ratchets, for me personally, are the first ratchets people buy and the last ratchet I would ever use. They are jack of all trades, masters of none tools.

I was swapping an alternator on a Honda last month. Simple job. Have to reach down under the tensioner and loosen its hardware to remove it to get the alternator out. NO WAY I'd set up a normal length ratchet, reach down there, brteak my back getting the socket on the bolt head under the pulley only to find the bolt was tighter than I thought.

Fixing a lawn mower, assembling a swing set or barbeque, sure I have my favorite mid length tools (worn F80). Anything automotive, I personally start with long flex, then switch to stubby. Cut out the middle man.

 

[mikey03]

I personally don't own a breaker bar and don't miss them.

The mid sized ratchets, for me personally, are the first ratchets people buy and the last ratchet I would ever use. They are jack of all trades, masters of none tools.

That’s real funny because I was just thinking the same thing about the regular size ratchets when I started putting together a list of what I own and my wish list of what I want to buy. I have a limited tool budget so I got to be careful and I mostly look for used snap on at pawn shops and eBay and marketplace.

Its hard to turn down a good deal when you see a shiny snap on ratchet for 30 bucks and new it’s 150 but I got more than I use and an missing some I could add in so i started this list of every snap on chrome ratchet and the sizes from their website.

What I came up with is I don’t really see the need for the regular length ones which are around 4“ for 1/4 and 7” for3/8 and 10” for 1/2

I always grab the long flex head first. And if there’s not enough space then I go to a baby ratchet.

They got them in what I think is 5 sizes. You got the regulars. Then a little bigger is long. A little shorter is small. But they got an extra long and a micro too.

I think 3 of those makes the most sense for me. Micro, small, large. Prob a good 80 to 90 % I can use the large. And then only 1 % I will use micro. And the other 10 to 20 % is the small. For the stuff I’m working on obviously everybody is different.

I figure if I need longer than long I can add a cheater bar pipe like a plumbing ****** I think it’s called. And if really need the regular size because I just can’t get enough power from the small and the long is too long then I can use a ratcheting wrench or even just a regular wrench. Hasn’t happened though. Stuff I seen either has lots of room for a long tool or no room and needs a small tool.

Also I wound up with a few breaker bars I got them for like 20 bucks snap on in really good shape so i couldn’t say no but your right I don’t really use them. So that’s why I started making lists and doing more research because I’m going to wind up with a garage full of tools i never use just because I got them at a good deal.

 

[CGarage]

For those of you who are AGAINST breaker bars, I think that is a mistake and that they are useful despite stronger ratchet designs available today.

It is only one extra step to use a breaker bar.

To preserve a ratchet that can’t be repaired on the spot? Priceless.

To preserve a ratchet that you will have to pay to send in for warranty or wait another week for a tool truck? Priceless.

To save a ratchet in which no repair kit exists and it is out of warranty? Priceless.

I personally think all modern ratchets should be designs that are user rebuildable with readily available parts kits.

 

[AEAdam]

For those of you who are AGAINST breaker bars, I think that is a mistake and that they are useful despite stronger ratchet designs available today.

It is only one extra step to use a breaker bar.

To preserve a ratchet that can’t be repaired on the spot? Priceless.

To preserve a ratchet that you will have to pay to send in for warranty or wait another week for a tool truck? Priceless.

To save a ratchet in which no repair kit exists and it is out of warranty? Priceless.

I personally think all modern ratchets should be designs that are user rebuildable with readily available parts kits.

The failure mode for a ratchet is now the same as the failure mode for a breaker. They are both stronger than the square drive. So there is literally no technical justification/use case for a breaker anymore. They are harder to use for the exact same strength as a ratchet. They are obsolete.

Some guys like them. Hey, I still use speeders, but they are obsolete too. Obsolete doesn't mean worthless. I'm obsolete.

 

[CGarage]

The failure mode for a ratchet is now the same as the failure mode for a breaker. They are both stronger than the square drive. So there is literally no technical justification/use case for a breaker anymore. They are harder to use for the exact same strength as a ratchet. They are obsolete.

Some guys like them. Hey, I still use speeders, but they are obsolete too. Obsolete doesn't mean worthless. I'm obsolete.

How is the failure mode for the ratchet the same as the breaker ?

 

[AEAdam]

How is the failure mode for the ratchet the same as the breaker ?

they both suffer shear failures of the square drive. The square drive is now the weak link, not the knuckle or the ratchet gear/pawl. Those joints are stronger than the square drive is.

Dual80 may have been first, but they are not now the only ratchets as strong as breakers. There are others

 

[mikey03]

they both suffer shear failures of the square drive. The square drive is now the weak link, not the knuckle or the ratchet gear/pawl. Those joints are stronger than the square drive is.

Dual80 may have been first, but they are not now the only ratchets as strong as breakers. There are others

Sometimes there’s a difference between breaking and damaging so I wonder if just because the ratchet didn’t break doesn’t mean you didn’t cause some problems, cracked some tooth on the pawl or added some stress to it that might cause issues down the line but idk much about it tbh

 

[AEAdam]

Sometimes there’s a difference between breaking and damaging so I wonder if just because the ratchet didn’t break doesn’t mean you didn’t cause some problems, cracked some tooth on the pawl or added some stress to it that might cause issues down the line but idk much about it tbh

doesn't matter since the ratchet gear is the same piece as the square drive.

The point is, a FLFH80A or SHLF80A should be in every tool box. Skip the breakers. If these ratchets break, a breaker bar would have broken.

Not that its the best idea, but all my ratchets are Dual80s. So I stock a couple rebuild kits for each drive size and if one lets go someday, besides being out of luck with that fastener, at least I can rebuild any ratchet in my box in 10 minutes. As @CGarage said, 2 is 1 and 1 is none.

Edit: These are the first 2 ratchets I think everyone should buy. These are the ratchets I use the most. Next would be the FK80, SK80. I have an SKF80 which is pretty nice and bigger than you'd expect. The flex makes it longer. I'd like to have an FKF80 someday. They conform to your hand nicely. The mid length ratchets are the last I would use. I have a couple sizes inbetween the long and the stubby and they are like new.

 

[Nick Rivers]

What is your most used or first grab ratchet during work?
1/4 0r 3/8 0r 1/2?

A. 1/4 for motorcycle and yard machines, 3/8 for automotive. 1/2 for Harley primary and secondary drives, motorcycle axles, scissor jack.

Long handle or short? (What is the length?) A. Short

Flex or fix head,flex with lock? A. Fixed head

Quick release or sealed head? Low profile really matters? A. Yes to all

Comfort grip or hard chrome handle? A. Hard Chrome

Any recommend brand? A. Cornwell and B. Craftsmen thin profile (obsolete)

 

[Wrench97]

What if we already own Dual 80s, Matco 88s, GW 90s, countless other oddities, and still just like the feel and action of the round head SKs better for general purpose work?

The thinnest, finest tooth, strongest ratchet is great for dealing with the corner-case scenario, but 95% of the time, the thicker and weaker round heads with feather light backdrag are perfectly fine and (subjectively) more enjoyable to use. For quick ratcheting, the extra weight of the knurled grip is nice too. There must be a reason they're as popular as they are, despite the better value on paper that gearwrench and the like offer.

Many of us use our tools to further our hobbies, not make a living with them. And for myself, simply using them at all is a nice break from 10+ hours in an office building. A few extra minutes to switch to a breaker bar or a thin head ratchet when needed is more than fine.

I have a number you can call > https://mentalhealthhotline.org/

 

[CGarage]

As a European who never encounters some of the ratchets mentioned here, I’d love to get my hands on a frumpy-looking classic old American ratchet to see what the appeal is.

Since Amazon US claims to deal with import duties and the rest up front, I might order one from there. Which long-handle 3/8″-drive model should I try? Only interested in US-made ratchets, not American brands importing stuff. Considering the Proto J5250, SK 45179, and Williams B-53A. Any of these clearly better than the others for back-drag?

If you sort Amazon reviews of the SK 45170 (a standard-handle model) by “Most recent”, you get a bunch of 1-star reviews and claims it’s not even a genuine SK ratchet. Which is a worrying prospect when ordering from abroad (difficult to return).

Save your money. As a European, you are not missing out on these SKs!!!!!

I do have a Williams Super Ratchet and I like it for its era and the unique design. But I haven’t used it much. It is 1/2” drive.

The best of the American ratchets I think are Matco with the locking flex design, followed by Snap-On.

I wouldn’t bother with any of the others. Truly.

 

[Kaervak]

My primary ratchet is an SK 45179 3/8 drive long handle ratchet with a DT80 drive mechanism. Next in line ratchet is an SK 40970 1/4 drive regular length ratchet with the standard drive mechanism.

 

[908Jim]

Guess I'd like to know more about what you are working on specifically so I can understand your perspective.

I personally don't own a breaker bar and don't miss them.

The mid sized ratchets, for me personally, are the first ratchets people buy and the last ratchet I would ever use. They are jack of all trades, masters of none tools.

I was swapping an alternator on a Honda last month. Simple job. Have to reach down under the tensioner and loosen its hardware to remove it to get the alternator out. NO WAY I'd set up a normal length ratchet, reach down there, brteak my back getting the socket on the bolt head under the pulley only to find the bolt was tighter than I thought.

Fixing a lawn mower, assembling a swing set or barbeque, sure I have my favorite mid length tools (worn F80). Anything automotive, I personally start with long flex, then switch to stubby. Cut out the middle man.

Mostly cars and SUVs, a mix of Euro (VW/Audi) and domestic with some Japanese sprinkled in as favors. As family life takes over, I'm getting less inclined to do major all-day jobs but I've got a turbo on the agenda this fall. In your post above you lost me at "reach down there" for using a standard length ratchet. If I'm reaching in the front of an engine bay, I'm probably grabbing a longest flex head I have for access and convenience.

Also I wound up with a few breaker bars I got them for like 20 bucks snap on in really good shape so i couldn’t say no but your right I don’t really use them. So that’s why I started making lists and doing more research because I’m going to wind up with a garage full of tools i never use just because I got them at a good deal.

Breaker bars are nice if if you're adjusting things and might need to tweak things back and forth. Many moons ago I used a breaker bar instead of a ratchet pretty often when doing alignments on eccentric bolts because suspension bushings cause things to drift and settle. They're also a lot easier to use if you need to hold a nut or bolt stationary for a task, especially against an impact wrench. The extra length over a wrench can save your knuckles!

For those of you who are AGAINST breaker bars, I think that is a mistake and that they are useful despite stronger ratchet designs available today.

It is only one extra step to use a breaker bar.

To preserve a ratchet that can’t be repaired on the spot? Priceless.

To preserve a ratchet that you will have to pay to send in for warranty or wait another week for a tool truck? Priceless.

To save a ratchet in which no repair kit exists and it is out of warranty? Priceless.

I personally think all modern ratchets should be designs that are user rebuildable with readily available parts kits.

Agree fully. Even if the ratchets stronger, no sense in subjecting it to unnecessary abuse. the Dual 80's probably weren't designed to hold the backside of bolted joints you're impacting against and the added length of a breaker bar over a wrench is nice.

The failure mode for a ratchet is now the same as the failure mode for a breaker. They are both stronger than the square drive. So there is literally no technical justification/use case for a breaker anymore. They are harder to use for the exact same strength as a ratchet. They are obsolete.

Some guys like them. Hey, I still use speeders, but they are obsolete too. Obsolete doesn't mean worthless. I'm obsolete.

Respectfully disagree. They're great if you need to prevent something from rotating against an impact. They're great if you need to make frequent back and forth movements to zero something in (e.g. eccentric bolts for alignments).

they both suffer shear failures of the square drive. The square drive is now the weak link, not the knuckle or the ratchet gear/pawl. Those joints are stronger than the square drive is.

Dual80 may have been first, but they are not now the only ratchets as strong as breakers. There are others

I have a hunch that high loading would affect flex joints in ratchets over time, whether yielding in the yolk or due to contact stresses around the pin that a rebuild kit won't address. I also wonder how repeated high loading would affect the housing. Does it increase wear or cause yielding that increases slop in the mechanism? I look at it like it's one of those "just because you can, doesn't mean you should" situations. I don't make a living with my tools, so my desire to keep them in decent condition outweighs my desire to save a few minutes here and there.

I have a number you can call > https://mentalhealthhotline.org/

My affinity for SK round head ratchets is probably not even in the top 5 reasons I should call, if we're being honest

 

[mikey03]

. They're great if you need to prevent something from rotating against an impact.

don’t most people use a combination wrench for this purpose

 

[Fedwrench]

A Milwaukee M12 high speed 1/4 drive cordless ratchet is what I reach for most.

Depending on the task, in 1/4 drive I like the current Tekton 90 tooth metal handled flex head ratchet without quick release. I like its thin head, crisp ratcheting action, and its length.
In 3/8 drive, I have a Carlyle 90 tooth comfort grip flex ratchet that's about 9 inches long that seems perfect for 85% of what I do. My second reach for often 3/8 drive ratchet is a three way tie between a Matco comfort grip locking flex head 88 tooth ratchet that's about 12 inches long, a Powerbuilt Pro quick release flex head with an all metal handle, and a Tone flex head ratchet. I think the only difference between the Tone and the Powerbuilt pro is the handle rotated 90 degrees on the Powerbuilt so that you're pulling on the flat side instead of the edge. Both share a 72 tooth quick release ratcheting mechanism that even has the same plastic cover over its snap ring legs. One can argue that the Tone could be made in Japan while the Powerbuilt hails from Taiwan. I rarely use a 1/2 drive ratchet but, when I do, it's usually an 18 inch or so long MAC Axis 90 all metal flex head ratchet. After writing this, I need to sell off all of the ratchets I rarely use.

 

[yamaha0343]

Williams B-52 long handle 3/8" is my go to.

 

[mikey03]

My primary ratchet is an SK 45179 3/8 drive long handle ratchet with a DT80 drive mechanism. Next in line ratchet is an SK 40970 1/4 drive regular length ratchet with the standard drive mechanism.

My uncle got some of these older SKs that everyone here loves so much and I was wondering how do you know if they are compatible with the upgrade kit to give them the higher tooth count since I’m guessing not everyone one can be upgraded? He’s got 1/4 3/8 1/2 versions and he offered me some but I didn’t like them since they feel gritty to me compared to the 80 tooth I got bur if I can upgrade the insides I would try that and see if I like it


Also wondering did they make a 3/4 version of these SK round heads? I am not sure if the big ones I saw in his garage were 1/2 or 3/4 tbh

 

[Kaervak]

My uncle got some of these older SKs that everyone here loves so much and I was wondering how do you know if they are compatible with the upgrade kit to give them the higher tooth count since I’m guessing not everyone one can be upgraded? He’s got 1/4 3/8 1/2 versions and he offered me some but I didn’t like them since they feel gritty to me compared to the 80 tooth I got bur if I can upgrade the insides I would try that and see if I like it


Also wondering did they make a 3/4 version of these SK round heads? I am not sure if the big ones I saw in his garage were 1/2 or 3/4 tbh

The DT kits are drop in replacements for any age SK round head ratchets. The design has pretty much been the same since the 40s. Yes, SK does/did make 3/4 drive round head ratchets. I see them on Facebook marketplace all the time, never bought one as I don't have a use for 3/4 drive though.

 

[housewolf]

SO 3/8” med length flex head but I changed the plugs on my CTS V today and it didn’t even make an appearance. 3/8” Gearwrench flex head long handle. With the plugs up against the (tall) inner fenders, anything with a short or medium length handle is useless.