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Motor For 103.23130

Lago David

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Joined
Feb 28, 2026
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20
am ready to give up on my original motor for my Craftsman Model 100. I spent hours and hours trying to do what I could to rebuild it. cleaning, replacing some brittle wires, bearings, etc. It starts and runs fine with no load but when I put the belt on it, it will not start, not even on the lowest speed. I can hand start it, but it will not start on its own. I guess the capacitor is weak and I don't there is much chance of getting a replacement.

I am ready to put a non-OE motor on it. Does anyone know what my choices are for finding a motor? Even a new one that will bolt on? Also, I imagine the original motor was put on multiple different machines if I knew what all to look for.

I just need a motor that runs now, even if it doesn't look original.
 
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Cruzan80

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Drill press, table saw, sander...? Sorry, but Model 100 doesn't narrow it down for most of us. Depending on where you are located, someone may have an OE replacement motor. Otherwise, match relative HP, shaft size, etc.
 

RTM

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guess the capacitor is weak and I don't there is much chance of getting a replacement.
Capacitors are easy, finding the exact one* isn’t required, just needs to be in the right range.
*Unless you are going for a factory restoration
 
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Lago David

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Feb 28, 2026
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Sorry, yes it is the 103.23130 drill press and I am in Santa Fe, TX just south of Houston. the issue is not finding appropriate HP and shaft size, but matching the mounting mechanism.
 
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Lago David

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Feb 28, 2026
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Capacitors are easy, finding the exact one* isn’t required, just needs to be in the right range.
*Unless you are going for a factory restoration
the capacitor is not mounted on the surface like modern motors. It is a rectangular capacitor enclosed under the base.
 

Cruzan80

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but matching the mounting mechanism.
Most motors in the 1/3-1/2HP range will also have the correct holes in the base, allowing it to be mounted on the motor plate. Alternatively, there are people who have put a new round capacitor in, and used a spacer to get the room between the bottom of the motor and the mounting plate. Occasionally, you can find replacements for the flat capacitors (it is harder).
 

FrankLee

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Sep 13, 2010
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seMI, 48317
Let's back up a minute...

Did the motor run before dismantling?
How confident are you that it was reassembled correctly? I've made many mistakes in the past assembling these Packard motors.

Did you install new bearings? If so, with extended inner race?

Any pictures?

You can also mount a capacitor remotely (inside the head) using a mounting bracket and end cap.
(you'll need to know the diameter of the new capacitor)

If you have to replace the motor, IIRC, you'll need a 56 frame.


Emerson motors are a good replacement choice.
 
Last edited:
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Lago David

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Feb 28, 2026
Messages
20
Let's back up a minute...

Did the motor run before dismantling?
How confident are you that it was reassembled correctly? I've made many mistakes assembling these motors.

Any pictures?

If you have to replace the motor, IIRC, you'll need a 56 frame.

You can also mount a capacitor remotely (inside the head) using a mounting bracket and end cap.
(you'll need to know the diameter of the new capacitor)
1. no it did not run properly prior to my "rework"; it smoked and it shocked me but at the same time it would run with a load attached. Now it does not smoke nor shock me but will not start under load. and no, I am not absolutely certain I reassembled it correctly. I found it really challenging.
2. What does IIRC mean?
3. I will have to think about that "inside the head" mounting. Drill and tap for the capacitor mount and then drill a hole for the wires to feed through into the base of the motor?

And, thank you.
Let's back up a minute...

Did the motor run before dismantling?
How confident are you that it was reassembled correctly? I've made many mistakes in the past assembling these Packard motors.

Did you install new bearings? If so, with extended inner race?

Any pictures?

You can also mount a capacitor remotely (inside the head) using a mounting bracket and end cap.
(you'll need to know the diameter of the new capacitor)

If you have to replace the motor, IIRC, you'll need a 56 frame.


Emerson motors are a good replacement choice.
I reviewed your links and truthfully I am intimidated and overwhelmed. the only link I really understood was the one about the orientation of the switch and nameplate. And no, I do not have mine mounted in that direction. I thought I put it back the way I found it, but maybe not. My switch is on the right side, my "off" is up, and the name badge is on the opposite side of the switch. Can this make any difference in whether or not it starts though?
 

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FrankLee

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1. no it did not run properly prior to my "rework"; it smoked
That is often, but not always, an indication that the start windings and capacitor were not removed from the circuit after starting. I.e., the switch did not open.

and it shocked me but at the same time it would run with a load attached.
That's not good... a short.?

Now it does not smoke nor shock me but will not start under load. and no, I am not absolutely certain I reassembled it correctly. I found it really challenging.
I really can't determine if the motor is still good or fried.

2. What does IIRC mean?
if I recall correctly

3. I will have to think about that "inside the head" mounting. Drill and tap for the capacitor mount and then drill a hole for the wires to feed through into the base of the motor?
May want to hold off spending money on it.
Generally, if the capacitor is bad, you can start it by turning the rotor by hand.

I reviewed your links and truthfully I am intimidated and overwhelmed. the only link I really understood was the one about the orientation of the switch and nameplate. And no, I do not have mine mounted in that direction. I thought I put it back the way I found it, but maybe not. My switch is on the right side, my "off" is up, and the name badge is on the opposite side of the switch.
Yeah, that is not the factory configuration, but it should be fine that way.

Can this make any difference in whether or not it starts though?
No.
 

Cruzan80

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Location
Denver, CO
Do you have a multimeter, and do you know how to check for continuity/resistance? That would help to tell if some of the windings shorted out or burned.
 
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RTM

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May 13, 2019
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Location
SF Bay Area
the capacitor is not mounted on the surface like modern motors. It is a rectangular capacitor enclosed under the base.
As others have noted, if you really want it to work, just drilling a hole or three can solve this problem. It won't look Factory, but it will work. If done well, it can still look good.
 
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Lago David

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2026
Messages
20
Let's back up a minute...

Did the motor run before dismantling?
How confident are you that it was reassembled correctly? I've made many mistakes in the past assembling these Packard motors.

Did you install new bearings? If so, with extended inner race?

Any pictures?

You can also mount a capacitor remotely (inside the head) using a mounting bracket and end cap.
(you'll need to know the diameter of the new capacitor)

If you have to replace the motor, IIRC, you'll need a 56 frame.


Emerson motors are a good replacement choice.

That is often, but not always, an indication that the start windings and capacitor were not removed from the circuit after starting. I.e., the switch did not open.


That's not good... a short.?


I really can't determine if the motor is still good or fried.


if I recall correctly


May want to hold off spending money on it.
Generally, if the capacitor is bad, you can start it by turning the rotor by hand.


Yeah, that is not the factory configuration, but it should be fine that way.


No.
Refer to my original post - the motor will run if I help it start with a little hand spinning.
 
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Lago David

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2026
Messages
20
That is often, but not always, an indication that the start windings and capacitor were not removed from the circuit after starting. I.e., the switch did not open.


That's not good... a short.?


I really can't determine if the motor is still good or fried.


if I recall correctly


May want to hold off spending money on it.
Generally, if the capacitor is bad, you can start it by turning the rotor by hand.


Yeah, that is not the factory configuration, but it should be fine that way.


No.
yes per the original post, I can start the motor by turning by hand
 
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Lago David

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2026
Messages
20
Do you have a multimeter, and do you know how to check for continuity/resistance? That would help to tell if some of the windings shorted out or burned.
the windings are good; the motor runs well if I help it start by hand
 
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Lago David

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2026
Messages
20
yes per the original post, I can start the motor by turning by hand
A separate but related question. I have found a similar motor but it is 3/4 HP and 3450 RPM; so twice the speed. Would this make the speed too fast to use in metals?
 
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Lago David

Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2026
Messages
20
Let's back up a minute...

Did the motor run before dismantling?
How confident are you that it was reassembled correctly? I've made many mistakes in the past assembling these Packard motors.

Did you install new bearings? If so, with extended inner race?

Any pictures?

You can also mount a capacitor remotely (inside the head) using a mounting bracket and end cap.
(you'll need to know the diameter of the new capacitor)

If you have to replace the motor, IIRC, you'll need a 56 frame.


Emerson motors are a good replacement choice.
Is this a start only capacitor? Or a start and run? and what capacitance range?
 

FrankLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
3,618
Location
seMI, 48317
A separate but related question. I have found a similar motor but it is 3/4 HP and 3450 RPM; so twice the speed. Would this make the speed too fast to use in metals?
Yes.
Is this a start only capacitor? Or a start and run? and what capacitance range?

Most 115.6962 motors have start capacitors with 124-155 mfd rating. No run cap.

I usually order from Airstar Supply. USA made and free shipping.

The 124-156 mfd will work.

The size is also listed for the end cap and bracket size.
 
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