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Mount PEX to concrete walls?

DGersic

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Mar 12, 2017
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DeKalb, IL
Still slowly planning my PEX replumbing project here. Came to something I’m not finding a lot of good ideas for, how to attach PEX to concrete.

I’ll be working in unfinished basement, running a 3/4” trunk with 1/2” drops. If my trunks run in the floor joist space, I need three drops (water softener, washing machine, utility sink) coming down the concrete wall.

Mounting 3/4” wood or plywood with tapcons, then standard mounting clips like these nailed to the wood is one idea.

AA1C63C1-13DD-4723-8B85-FBEF9E3D16AF.jpeg

Another is a small quantity of clips like these, mounted directly with tapcons.

567FB03F-C0D7-4E17-9A75-F1A5A94CAD5E.jpeg

Any other good ideas? I’m not going to frame in or otherwise finish this wall.
 
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Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
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West central Indiana
If multiple pipes or other things might be added, use unistrut. Then you only have to drill holes for two tapcons per unistrut vs 2 per pipe.

Also if hot water is being used and you want to use pipe insulation you can use an insulation clamp. I personally use unisorb klo-shure clamps but there are others. I buy them pretty cheap on ebay.

Klo-Shure-Series-7_600x600@2x.jpg
 
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DGersic

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DeKalb, IL
If multiple pipes or other things might be added, use unistrut. Then you only have to drill holes for two tapcons per unistrut vs 2 per pipe.

Also if hot water is being used and you want to use pipe insulation you can use an insulation clamp. I personally use unisorb klo-shure clamps but there are others. I buy them pretty cheap on ebay.

Klo-Shure-Series-7_600x600@2x.jpg

I thought about unistrut, but that seemed like overkill. The three drops aren’t next to each other, so I’d either have a lot of unused strut, or a dozen small pieces.

Good point on the insulation. I will insulate the trunk, but probably won’t on these drops. The washing machine and utility sink don’t get a lot of use, figure those drops will get cold anyway. The water softener is cold in and out.

I’ll probably do 3/4” plywood. That’ll also allow for ball valves with mounting ears.
 

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
I thought about unistrut, but that seemed like overkill. The three drops aren’t next to each other, so I’d either have a lot of unused strut, or a dozen small pieces.

Good point on the insulation. I will insulate the trunk, but probably won’t on these drops. The washing machine and utility sink don’t get a lot of use, figure those drops will get cold anyway. The water softener is cold in and out.

I’ll probably do 3/4” plywood. That’ll also allow for ball valves with mounting ears.
Is there anything better than overkill on the GJ
 

jrsavoie

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Jun 4, 2013
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North east Illinois
I'd use stainless hardware. Stuff I installed 25 years ago is rusty

Years ago I had some plastic clips similar to what you have pictured, but the pex just snapped into it.

I've used 1/4" stainless screws for tapcons. I run the tapcon in, pull it out and run the stainless screw in.
 

Bert_

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Dec 24, 2016
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NW Iowa
Not sure where you are at but if those are exterior walls I wouldn't put the pex right against it. Seen lines freeze that way. Better to stand it off with a board
 
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DGersic

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DeKalb, IL
Not sure where you are at but if those are exterior walls I wouldn't put the pex right against it. Seen lines freeze that way. Better to stand it off with a board

Northern Illinois. The current galvanized pipes are on this wall. Never froze. But I don’t want to try to drill a bunch of little holes in concrete, so board or something like it.
 
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DGersic

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Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,296
Location
DeKalb, IL
I'd use stainless hardware. Stuff I installed 25 years ago is rusty

Years ago I had some plastic clips similar to what you have pictured, but the pex just snapped into it.

I've used 1/4" stainless screws for tapcons. I run the tapcon in, pull it out and run the stainless screw in.

Yeah, there are dozens of styles of clips.
 

KenC

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Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,578
I'd just use the plastic clips and small tapcons. Just as easy as mounting a board with tapcons, but faster and looks better in my eye.

A good hammer drill can deal with little holes like that just a quick a drilling wood. Mark 'em out and drill all at one time. Probably 5 minutes at most.
 
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