Movement in gable end wall - Need Advise

[pstnbly]

This is the correct framing method. The fix can be done with minimal effort.
Get the proper length studs, 2x6 I believe you said. Install 2 double studs from sill to lower member of scissor truss. Divide the gable wall in thirds and cut the top plates and lower plate of gable to install the double studs. Then run a latteral brace at both double stud locales atop the lower member of scissor truss connecting all the trusses. This will stiffen the gable.

I agree on the "fix".

 

[wssix99]

I agree the end wall and scissor could have been balloon framed with taller studs and the scissor truss not used, but that ship has sailed and I think you already have the siding on.

No way. A simple pry bar solves that problem. Siding comes down and then can go back up. It should be pretty easy since the siding that would need to come down doesn't work around any windows, etc.

Going to be lots of notching 2x6s when I get into the web of the scissor with the 2x6s that go from the plate to the top chord of the scissor.

I think I am following everything your saying through adding the 2x6 above the ceiling line. Not sure what you meant by then adding a 2x6 horizontal to this to create another L-brace; this boxes the gable and add's rigidity?

Are you still entertaining the idea of bracing that improperly placed top plate to the scissor trusses in the interior of the room? I'm not sure what the point of having scissor trusses is at that point.


If you don't want to deal with the contractor or remove the siding, you can still do a good repair. If you create the "triangle" of missing stud wall to go between the top plate and the truss, it can be glued to the siding with construction adhesive, which should hold just fine. (I'd personally still press for the contractor to come out and get the job done right.)

 

[larry4406]

...I think I am following everything your saying through adding the 2x6 above the ceiling line. Not sure what you meant by then adding a 2x6 horizontal to this to create another L-brace; this boxes the gable and add's rigidity?...

Everything in red is an L-brace.

The verticals are 2x6's in plane of the wall added to the sides of the gable flat 2x4's.

The horizontals are 2x6's, one flat (6" dimension vertical) against the edges of vertical 2x6's discussed above, and then another nailed to this one with the 6" dimension horizontal.

 

[pstnbly]

Everything in red is an L-brace.

The verticals are 2x6's in plane of the wall added to the sides of the gable flat 2x4's.

The horizontals are 2x6's, one flat (6" dimension vertical) against the edges of vertical 2x6's discussed above, and then another nailed to this one with the 6" dimension horizontal.

That still does not address the "knee". The movement is at the plates, SH7mi has the answer.

 

[larry4406]

That still does not address the "knee". The movement is at the plates, SH7mi has the answer.

I addressed that via stiffening of the hinged top plates via adding a 3rd ply to the double top plates in a prior post. I was addressing only a portion of my reply that the OP still did not comprehend.

 

[pstnbly]

I addressed that via stiffening of the hinged top plates via adding a 3rd ply to the double top plates in a prior post. I was addressing only a portion of my reply that the OP still did not comprehend.

Adding a third top plate will still not address the issue in a wall that long. If you are going this route I would suggest placing a 1/2" x 5" flitch plate laid on the flat and through bolted to the top plate. A 20' length should do it, it does not need to go end to end. Just cut off the bottom of the upper studs (the ones laid on the flat) and slip it in.

 

[wssix99]

Adding a third top plate will still not address the issue in a wall that long.

Correct. It will just take a wet noodle and make it al dente. The wall will continue to have major wind loading/resistance issues until it extends all the way to the ceiling.

 

[Daniel Ozarks]

Greetings, I know this is old but I have a similar situation - flat bottom gable truss with a scissor truss next. My question is, how come a solution isnt just running some 1 inch steel pipe from the floor, through the top plate, and up to the top of the gable? 2 should be fine but you could do as many as you want.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Greetings, I know this is old but I have a similar situation - flat bottom gable truss with a scissor truss next. My question is, how come a solution isnt just running some 1 inch steel pipe from the floor, through the top plate, and up to the top of the gable? 2 should be fine but you could do as many as you want.

Hint: start your own thread, you'll have a better responses to your questions instead of bumping a zombie thread.