MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
I love how you did the hinge detail. I never would have thought of that
Here's the fabrication of our hinge covers for the wagon, since the originals didn't fit well at all. Some 1-3/16 round stock was used on the magnetic brake to provide a much closer matching radius profile, and some severe stretching was done along the bottom flange and up into the radius.
The reverse crease was added using a dulled and rounded press brake die section as an anvil.
Much nicer look over the stock ones. While I was working on those, Jared has been prepping our stainless trim parts for polishing/buffing...
The reverse crease was added using a dulled and rounded press brake die section as an anvil.
Much nicer look over the stock ones. While I was working on those, Jared has been prepping our stainless trim parts for polishing/buffing...
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Artwork Robert, freakin' artwork. 
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
You make it seem so simple !! Until I give it a try and it takes me 3 days to get just mediocre results. 
xtremek
Well-known member
^ What he said.
JC23
Well-known member
Another Home Run, as usual!
Ohmthis
Well-known member
No one except those of us that have watched this build will appreciate the work you and your crew have put into this beauty! The attention to detail is second to none Robert!
Thanks for following along fellas..
Tying up some loose ends, We still need to finish the wiring at the back of the car, but in the middle of modifying the tail light fixtures for bulb relocation. To that end, in an attempt to keep grounding issues to a minimum, quick disconnect tabs are silver soldered to the tail light housings.
Next, we started the installation of the rear power windows. The rear motors had been mocked up a couple of times and the screw holes in the plastic housings were loose/borderline stripped. So they were drilled and tapped, and 10-32 heli-coils installed for a more permanent solution.
Once the power window track was installed, the OEM stop block for downward travel of the window was found to be useless as the window bottomed out into the wheelwell. Some delrin was cut to size, notched for a snug fit onto the track, and two holes drilled for attachment to the track. Worked well...
While here at the rear window, we still needed to drill mounting holes for the shoulder harness through the window garnish moldings. A 1/2-13 bolt was used to fabricate a threaded hole spotter on the lathe, complete with flats for wrench installation.
With garnish molding positioned, a quick tap of the dead blow hammer gives an exact location for the hole.
Next, in order that we don't leave an unfinished hole edge, a punch set was machined for the lathe, complete with stepped shoulders to prevent any movement in the jaws when pressure was applied. This will swage the hole edge for a nice inward flange...
And we had received our new shipment of Cubitron H/L paper from Three Mules Welding Supply for dressing out stainless, so Jared continued prepping our edge trim parts.
Where the hemming process we used with the bead roller isn't an exacting science, we did have some variance in the gap opening that made the prepping process a challenge. In order to get more consistency in gap width, (and thus flange flatness) a new widget tool was fabricated out of 16 gauge to open up those tight spots.
Tying up some loose ends, We still need to finish the wiring at the back of the car, but in the middle of modifying the tail light fixtures for bulb relocation. To that end, in an attempt to keep grounding issues to a minimum, quick disconnect tabs are silver soldered to the tail light housings.
Next, we started the installation of the rear power windows. The rear motors had been mocked up a couple of times and the screw holes in the plastic housings were loose/borderline stripped. So they were drilled and tapped, and 10-32 heli-coils installed for a more permanent solution.
Once the power window track was installed, the OEM stop block for downward travel of the window was found to be useless as the window bottomed out into the wheelwell. Some delrin was cut to size, notched for a snug fit onto the track, and two holes drilled for attachment to the track. Worked well...
While here at the rear window, we still needed to drill mounting holes for the shoulder harness through the window garnish moldings. A 1/2-13 bolt was used to fabricate a threaded hole spotter on the lathe, complete with flats for wrench installation.
With garnish molding positioned, a quick tap of the dead blow hammer gives an exact location for the hole.
Next, in order that we don't leave an unfinished hole edge, a punch set was machined for the lathe, complete with stepped shoulders to prevent any movement in the jaws when pressure was applied. This will swage the hole edge for a nice inward flange...
And we had received our new shipment of Cubitron H/L paper from Three Mules Welding Supply for dressing out stainless, so Jared continued prepping our edge trim parts.
Where the hemming process we used with the bead roller isn't an exacting science, we did have some variance in the gap opening that made the prepping process a challenge. In order to get more consistency in gap width, (and thus flange flatness) a new widget tool was fabricated out of 16 gauge to open up those tight spots.
xtremek
Well-known member
Your attention to detail isalways amazing
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
What he said 
above. It’s really impressive!!
above. It’s really impressive!!More progress on the dash inset. In order to form the outer edge trim to fit, we made an "anvil" out of 19 gauge that match the dash inset. The excess flange was trimmed in the area of the sharp bend.
Some heat was applied to the bend area, slight persuasion added to bend a few degrees, the area flattened to remove any puckers, and repeat.
Then we needed to shrink the flange on the insides to match the opening. This was accomplished by squeezing the two edge trim ends together, adding a patch of heat to form a tuck, and then flatten out the tucks to provide the shrink.
For attachment to the dash, 8-32 press studs were installed in the inner flanges where they are also out of sight. The ribbed stainless was installed in the edge trim, then wrapped around our oxygen bottle to provide the radius.
And a sneak peek at our trim fitted to the dash...
Some heat was applied to the bend area, slight persuasion added to bend a few degrees, the area flattened to remove any puckers, and repeat.
Then we needed to shrink the flange on the insides to match the opening. This was accomplished by squeezing the two edge trim ends together, adding a patch of heat to form a tuck, and then flatten out the tucks to provide the shrink.
For attachment to the dash, 8-32 press studs were installed in the inner flanges where they are also out of sight. The ribbed stainless was installed in the edge trim, then wrapped around our oxygen bottle to provide the radius.
And a sneak peek at our trim fitted to the dash...
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
When I was fresh out of high school I worked for Dave McBride at his shop California Classic Chevy Parts in Campbell, California. One of the products we made was dash trim for all 3 Tri-5’s. Each year had the same trim, but different. Dave had figured out how to make all the dies to stamp out the different pieces and then we would hand finish all the corners and tune up the pieces. He had this huge stamp press with a heavy cast iron flywheel that I seem to remember was about 8’ in diameter. It had a motor to spin the flywheel, but Dave made us spin it by hand cuz he knew we’d all get killed if it was motorized! Good times, thanks for the reminder!
larry4406
Well-known member
Stunning workmanship as usual!
How do are those press studs get installed? I've not seen those before.
How do are those press studs get installed? I've not seen those before.
If anyone could use a set of RL Spellman hole spotters, check out my ad in the classifieds...
www.garagejournal.com
Hole spotter sets, RL Spellman
UPDATE the slightly used set with extras has sold. The un-used set is still available. ********************************************************************************************* I have two sets of RL Spellman Hole spotters, one set is new in the box, unused. The other set has been...
www.garagejournal.com
Last edited:
I was actually just checking out your ad. What exactly are they used for and how if you don't mind explaining.If anyone could use a set of RL Spellman hole spotters, check out my ad in the classifieds...
Hole spotter sets, RL Spellman
UPDATE the slightly used set with extras has sold. The un-used set is still available. ********************************************************************************************* I have two sets of RL Spellman Hole spotters, one set is new in the box, unused. The other set has been...
Wiz02
Well-known member
Yes please explain, perspiring minds want to know
If you have a part with blind holes where you can’t use transfer punches, these will drop in place in the holes and then bump the part to mark the holes in the adjoining part. Work very well. I already have a set, use it all the time. Selling these for someone.
Last edited:
More shiny stuff...
Since I was on a road trip Sunday, I popped in and visited the patent display that we made the hood for. The owner has it re-wired and reflectors installed. This video gives a better idea of what it was used for..
Back in the early 20's there were lights that would attach to the bumper and a cable driven mechanism attached to the front steering so that the light would follow the direction of travel. Advantageous for the limited brightness of the headlamps in those days. So this was likely a salesman's prop for selling such a lighting accessory.
Since I was on a road trip Sunday, I popped in and visited the patent display that we made the hood for. The owner has it re-wired and reflectors installed. This video gives a better idea of what it was used for..
Back in the early 20's there were lights that would attach to the bumper and a cable driven mechanism attached to the front steering so that the light would follow the direction of travel. Advantageous for the limited brightness of the headlamps in those days. So this was likely a salesman's prop for selling such a lighting accessory.
xtremek
Well-known member
Looking shiny, very shiny.
Thanks for the comments guys!
Before we could install the rear bumper we needed to install the rear bumper seal, this keeps exhaust fumes from sneaking through and getting sucked in the back tailgate. The seal sits in a channel which is then "crimped" with some rounded pliers. Only my rounded pliers did not work, we needed parallel jaw pliers. So these channel locks were modified by adding the round stock. Only that did not hold well enough, so a dimpler was added to the bottom jaw, as shown...
These dimples gave us enough grip, and any chips were removed and then recoated with a couple coats of epoxy primer.
Here's the bumper added, and a video that better shows the hidden hardware...
Here's a closer look at the forming of the edge trim for our dash inset trim. We had made a template out of 19 gauge steel to match the dash inset, and used it (and some heat) to form the point. This video shows the shrinking of the flange so the edge trim would match. The upper and lower edge trim was squeezed while applying heat to form a tuck for shrinking the flange and providing the radius.
All shaped, before polishing..
Press studs installed...
Ribbed stainless insert added and our green radius brake used to match the dash profile...
One last touch-up to the polishing and installed in the dash.....
Before we could install the rear bumper we needed to install the rear bumper seal, this keeps exhaust fumes from sneaking through and getting sucked in the back tailgate. The seal sits in a channel which is then "crimped" with some rounded pliers. Only my rounded pliers did not work, we needed parallel jaw pliers. So these channel locks were modified by adding the round stock. Only that did not hold well enough, so a dimpler was added to the bottom jaw, as shown...
These dimples gave us enough grip, and any chips were removed and then recoated with a couple coats of epoxy primer.
Here's the bumper added, and a video that better shows the hidden hardware...
Here's a closer look at the forming of the edge trim for our dash inset trim. We had made a template out of 19 gauge steel to match the dash inset, and used it (and some heat) to form the point. This video shows the shrinking of the flange so the edge trim would match. The upper and lower edge trim was squeezed while applying heat to form a tuck for shrinking the flange and providing the radius.
All shaped, before polishing..
Press studs installed...
Ribbed stainless insert added and our green radius brake used to match the dash profile...
One last touch-up to the polishing and installed in the dash.....
xtremek
Well-known member
You're making me feel good. I've used the same brand of radius brake on some of my projects. I thought I was being a hack. Thank you.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Always great to see the updates and progress. Those pliers are a great idea !!
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
The bumper and the stainless came out great!
They have a very clean and bright appearance, nice touch!
They have a very clean and bright appearance, nice touch!
56vette461
Well-known member
If it works to do the job, it isn't a hack, it's ingenuity!!
I've been remiss in posting an update. We've been doing a bit of block sanding interior parts, and its just hard to make those pictures look like any semblance of progress.
We pulled the front fenders back off, we had mocked them up in order to modify the upper fender mounts at the cowl. They came with some excessively sized holes to allow plenty of adjustment, and we had filled in the factory hole and re-drilled to a normal clearance hole. Here shown after a spray of Organic Green KBC, and the stainless washers we used as shims. Hard to leave those stacked washers after we did the other cleanup in resizing the bracket's mounting hole.
We had some black delrin scraps left over from making the radius arm bushings for Jared's 39, so we put them to use here. Since they had already been drilled, we added an aluminum plug and match drilled the holes to match the bracket. Installed, the black delrin is barely noticeable and makes for a cleaner detail over the stacked washers.
Some of the parts we sprayed while the front fenders were off.
With the core support reinstalled, we started on the installation of the inner fenders.
Since our cowl bracket was all cleaned up now, we needed to address the attaching hardware. This started with 400 grit and worked up to 5000 trizact before hitting the buffer...
Much better! And so we can finalize the wiring at the back of the car, the tail-light housings had been sprayed in epoxy and we added some catalyzed white to the inner portion for some brighter lights.
.....and the day job has me building anchored support stanchions for some phone lockers and naturally the mounting holes are on the back side for a wall mounting only. What we need are some bolting plates to hold things down as I wasn’t comfortable with rivnuts in the chinesium steel flange on the bottom.
Well, said flange also has a 1/4” upward fold for added strength, so our bolting plate will need a tight reverse bend to offset those but still leave room for press nuts on the end flanges.
So some 1/2” wide female VEE dies were set up opposing each other with just enough offset to make two bends at once.
Shroud added for weather resistance..
We pulled the front fenders back off, we had mocked them up in order to modify the upper fender mounts at the cowl. They came with some excessively sized holes to allow plenty of adjustment, and we had filled in the factory hole and re-drilled to a normal clearance hole. Here shown after a spray of Organic Green KBC, and the stainless washers we used as shims. Hard to leave those stacked washers after we did the other cleanup in resizing the bracket's mounting hole.
We had some black delrin scraps left over from making the radius arm bushings for Jared's 39, so we put them to use here. Since they had already been drilled, we added an aluminum plug and match drilled the holes to match the bracket. Installed, the black delrin is barely noticeable and makes for a cleaner detail over the stacked washers.
Some of the parts we sprayed while the front fenders were off.
With the core support reinstalled, we started on the installation of the inner fenders.
Since our cowl bracket was all cleaned up now, we needed to address the attaching hardware. This started with 400 grit and worked up to 5000 trizact before hitting the buffer...
Much better! And so we can finalize the wiring at the back of the car, the tail-light housings had been sprayed in epoxy and we added some catalyzed white to the inner portion for some brighter lights.
.....and the day job has me building anchored support stanchions for some phone lockers and naturally the mounting holes are on the back side for a wall mounting only. What we need are some bolting plates to hold things down as I wasn’t comfortable with rivnuts in the chinesium steel flange on the bottom.
Well, said flange also has a 1/4” upward fold for added strength, so our bolting plate will need a tight reverse bend to offset those but still leave room for press nuts on the end flanges.
So some 1/2” wide female VEE dies were set up opposing each other with just enough offset to make two bends at once.
Shroud added for weather resistance..
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That green is beautiful Robert, and I'm not necessarily a fan of green. Are you still using the SPI Universal Clear on all of the smaller parts?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks Robert. I knew you were still using the SPI epoxy primer (black) but couldn't remember if you were still using the SPI Universal Clear or not. It looks amazing and although I have only shot the SPI clear a few times really like it, reminds me of the PPG high solids clear from the late 80's/early 90's before it got thinned out and altered.
Thanks for the response Robert.
Last bit of progress, we got the hinges painted so hopefully we can get the tailgate installed this weekend...
installing more shiny stuff....
We had not pre-drill the holes for the partial spear on the doors when we installed new door skins, so here we mask off the bottom of the door and drill SLOWLY to prevent heat buildup.
Then the fresh holes are touched up with two coats of epoxy primer. Once dry the spears are added..
And our dash clock showed up so we can get that hole filled as well
installing more shiny stuff....
We had not pre-drill the holes for the partial spear on the doors when we installed new door skins, so here we mask off the bottom of the door and drill SLOWLY to prevent heat buildup.
Then the fresh holes are touched up with two coats of epoxy primer. Once dry the spears are added..
And our dash clock showed up so we can get that hole filled as well
txvwnut
Well-known member
The reflectivity of that paint work. 
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
That car is amazing!!
xtremek
Well-known member
Always a pleasure.
BMW Rider
Well-known member
That stainless drink cup could use being polished up a bit to match the trim piece.