zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Absolutely amazing workmanship Robert. Thank you for sharing.
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Looking Fantastic Robert! I painted a 900 Kawasaki that color many moons ago bike was pretty much new. Prob still have a splash of it left. Jon Kosmoski told me years ago if the paint will still mix you can use it! Still have tons of HOK paint left. '66 F100 clone of one my dad bought new will be getting HOK Red pretty close to the original J code red. Hope it works as it's 35+ yrs old.Last bit of progress, we got the hinges painted so hopefully we can get the tailgate installed this weekend...
installing more shiny stuff....
We had not pre-drill the holes for the partial spear on the doors when we installed new door skins, so here we mask off the bottom of the door and drill SLOWLY to prevent heat buildup.
Then the fresh holes are touched up with two coats of epoxy primer. Once dry the spears are added..
And our dash clock showed up so we can get that hole filled as well
While assembling the door bits, we noticed that the retaining clip for the reproduction lock cylinders did not match the originals, which would leave us with a gaping hole in the back side of the inner door.
So we had media blasted the originals and sent to the Shop at Shorty's for a cerakote finish of gun metal grey. As my luck would have it, the door skins we had installed had some accuracy issues in the lock hole locations.
Aligning the clip to the lock hole would result in a slight misalignment out back... and you know Robert's not having that.
With Cerakote still fresh, some trimming was done so we could use the original clips to fill the hole void, and the new ones would be used to hold the lock cylinder in place as well as the original clip, whose new job has been reduced to filling a slotted opening. Some window sealant will slow any movement of the pretend clip.
And the same effort repeated for the driver's side. Where it wasn't as far off as the other side, our mods were still required.
Mandatory Kramer photo bomb
Adding the pull rod for the door lock....
and the addition of a rubber grommet will help keep rattles down.
Jared applied some Kilmat inside the tailgate and we added more bling..
And we've had a casualty with the Baileigh magnetic brake. The magnet stopped working and some troubleshooting found an open with the coil. Some inspection of the supply wires found an over heat issue. Removing all the epoxy showed it's been warm for awhile....
So it looks like we'll be in search of replacement parts.
So we had media blasted the originals and sent to the Shop at Shorty's for a cerakote finish of gun metal grey. As my luck would have it, the door skins we had installed had some accuracy issues in the lock hole locations.
Aligning the clip to the lock hole would result in a slight misalignment out back... and you know Robert's not having that.
With Cerakote still fresh, some trimming was done so we could use the original clips to fill the hole void, and the new ones would be used to hold the lock cylinder in place as well as the original clip, whose new job has been reduced to filling a slotted opening. Some window sealant will slow any movement of the pretend clip.
And the same effort repeated for the driver's side. Where it wasn't as far off as the other side, our mods were still required.
Mandatory Kramer photo bomb
Adding the pull rod for the door lock....
and the addition of a rubber grommet will help keep rattles down.
Jared applied some Kilmat inside the tailgate and we added more bling..
And we've had a casualty with the Baileigh magnetic brake. The magnet stopped working and some troubleshooting found an open with the coil. Some inspection of the supply wires found an over heat issue. Removing all the epoxy showed it's been warm for awhile....
So it looks like we'll be in search of replacement parts.
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Wagon is coming along very nice!
I have a few cracks opening up in my epoxy on my Baileigh magnetic brake, hopefully it's not headed down the same path.
As always, thank you for sharing.
I have a few cracks opening up in my epoxy on my Baileigh magnetic brake, hopefully it's not headed down the same path.
As always, thank you for sharing.
Apparently they are supposed to be connected to 208 volts and 240 will cause things to overheat. And our local power co-op sends 248 volts because it spins the meter faster. If your cracks are toward the rear of the epoxy just to left of center, that's about where the connection point is located. What's needed is a buck boost transformer based on your actual voltage. Here's a picture of the one I have that will be installed with the replacement. Hope nobody needs the tanning bed.. 
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BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
These are the cracks that I was talking about, both rows have them.
I do have a crack center and to the left and the right on both front and back coil, six cracks total.
After seeing yours makes me wonder if I should fill the voids with epoxy like JB Weld and look into the getting a box like you.
Any ideas on getting the actual voltages coming in to my shop. I have measured 120 volts a bunch of times but not 240 volts. Could I measure each 120 line and add them up to get my 240 volts actuals?
Thank you!
I do have a crack center and to the left and the right on both front and back coil, six cracks total.
After seeing yours makes me wonder if I should fill the voids with epoxy like JB Weld and look into the getting a box like you.
Any ideas on getting the actual voltages coming in to my shop. I have measured 120 volts a bunch of times but not 240 volts. Could I measure each 120 line and add them up to get my 240 volts actuals?
Thank you!
Attachments
I have a LAser cutter and cleaner/welder. It also needs strict voltage. I did not know this and had 249 volts into my shop. I bought a step down. It cost me about $600. It brought the voltage down to 230 or so. The Laser is temper-mental
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
I checked the voltage, and I turns out I'm getting 244 volts, my brake is rated at 240 volts "per the data plate on the front of the brake"
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Interesting, so I look for a buck-boost transformer that has a 240 input 208 output and not worry about the extra 4 volts going in.
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Thanks Robert!
Looks like I have some spec reading to do.
Looks like I have some spec reading to do.
More progress, we were test fitting the power antenna an noticed that the mounting bezel did not sit horizontally on the fender. I had quickly whipped up a wedge shaped and tapered spacer out of some aluminum as a quick test.
Where that was functional, it did not match the chrome finish of the bezel. I picked up a chunk of 1" stainless rod (local drop cut) to make a duplicate out of stainless. The wedge shape was added first, using the 12" disc sander... then clamped in the Southbend for the taper cut and a hole boring.
....and trimmed off to length
In order to hold this oddball shape for polishing, some rivnuts were used on a 1/2-13 bolt, with the wedge angle added to one for a more positive hold..
Completed, this matches the chrome finish of the bezel much better...
Since we were ready to re-install the front fenders, I thought I'd grab pictures of our fine-tuning adjustment screws for the fender to door alignment. The hex bolt shown on the right is filling an existing hole that used to have a rubber plug in it. I guess having pulled out the dried and cracked old rubber plug, I wanted a more permanent solution. We were going to use that hole but it did not align with the rib on the fender's rear brace. So another hole was drilled next to it, a 3/8-16 AVK style rivet nut installed, and a fully threaded bolt added. The bolt head was covered with a rubber cap and the inside end of the bolt had a slot added for adjustment purposes. Now we could use a screwdriver to adjust the screw outward, pushing the center of the fender until it aligns to the door surface.. A jam nut on the inside tightens against the rivnut to prevent any movement.
And with our upper fender mounts painted, they get installed using polished button head hardware and our barely noticeable shims we had fabricated.
In the tooling department, we needed a tight radius reverse bend on some .090 aluminum, so a Gene Winfield inspired 1-1/4" round stock was added to our 4" pipe. This was bolted straight into tapped holes and used two stacked flat washers to provide the gap. The aluminum was 5052 alloy and was annealed prior to bending.
Where that was functional, it did not match the chrome finish of the bezel. I picked up a chunk of 1" stainless rod (local drop cut) to make a duplicate out of stainless. The wedge shape was added first, using the 12" disc sander... then clamped in the Southbend for the taper cut and a hole boring.
....and trimmed off to length
In order to hold this oddball shape for polishing, some rivnuts were used on a 1/2-13 bolt, with the wedge angle added to one for a more positive hold..
Completed, this matches the chrome finish of the bezel much better...
Since we were ready to re-install the front fenders, I thought I'd grab pictures of our fine-tuning adjustment screws for the fender to door alignment. The hex bolt shown on the right is filling an existing hole that used to have a rubber plug in it. I guess having pulled out the dried and cracked old rubber plug, I wanted a more permanent solution. We were going to use that hole but it did not align with the rib on the fender's rear brace. So another hole was drilled next to it, a 3/8-16 AVK style rivet nut installed, and a fully threaded bolt added. The bolt head was covered with a rubber cap and the inside end of the bolt had a slot added for adjustment purposes. Now we could use a screwdriver to adjust the screw outward, pushing the center of the fender until it aligns to the door surface.. A jam nut on the inside tightens against the rivnut to prevent any movement.
And with our upper fender mounts painted, they get installed using polished button head hardware and our barely noticeable shims we had fabricated.
In the tooling department, we needed a tight radius reverse bend on some .090 aluminum, so a Gene Winfield inspired 1-1/4" round stock was added to our 4" pipe. This was bolted straight into tapped holes and used two stacked flat washers to provide the gap. The aluminum was 5052 alloy and was annealed prior to bending.
Boosted1
Well-known member
I think finding another shop that can / will address ALL aspects of a build like the Nomad you are doing would be near impossible..
Nice work.
Nice work.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Awesome stuff. The door adjustment is sweet !!
Thanks fellas!
More progress on the wagon. While reassembling the front end, Jared noticed the fenders were a bit high at the cowl. This next picture shows it, although the perspective makes it a bit exaggerated.
So we pulled each of our new shims we had made and shaved another 1/16" off the height.
This shows the fender height after adjusting the shim height.
But shows our next back up and punt moment. The wedge shim we had made for the antenna was too steep, and this shows the actual angle needed. So we made another with less angle...
Note some "pre-polishing" was done on the lathe prior to cutting off the wedge to make things a bit easier. Final version installed and vertical orientation verified...
Next, we got the driver's door wiring routed through the upper door hinge... much easier after the trial-and-error practice we did on the passenger side.
...and with the front fenders back on to stay, Jared reassembled some of the core support parts.
Moving to the rear of the car, we started the rear tail-light install now that they have been painted inside and out. Wiring was routed through OEM style boots to help minimize any water intrusion into the lamp sockets. Replacement button contacts were used in the sockets (w-crimp) to eliminate any unneeded splicing of the wiring. Wiring complete, with bulb seal attached to the housing:
Rivet-nuts were installed for mounting the housing....
Nice snug fit to the body, and a functional test to make sure we're done here..
Moving to the passenger side, we'd need to secure the harness to the tail-light swing arm mechanism (part of the hidden gas door mod) so we planned to add some heli-coils in the arm for adel clamps. I had a long 1/8" bit to get in close to the corner, but our final size of 13/64 for the 10-32 heli-coil tap would be another issue.
Then I noticed some tubing in the scrap pile that had a 3/16 ID, just undersized. So our drill bit was clamped in the 3 jaw chuck of the lathe, and the tail stock used to press the two together.
Now we had an extended bit to complete the heli-coil installation.
...and a functional test of the wiring on the arm...
More progress on the wagon. While reassembling the front end, Jared noticed the fenders were a bit high at the cowl. This next picture shows it, although the perspective makes it a bit exaggerated.
So we pulled each of our new shims we had made and shaved another 1/16" off the height.
This shows the fender height after adjusting the shim height.
But shows our next back up and punt moment. The wedge shim we had made for the antenna was too steep, and this shows the actual angle needed. So we made another with less angle...
Note some "pre-polishing" was done on the lathe prior to cutting off the wedge to make things a bit easier. Final version installed and vertical orientation verified...
Next, we got the driver's door wiring routed through the upper door hinge... much easier after the trial-and-error practice we did on the passenger side.
...and with the front fenders back on to stay, Jared reassembled some of the core support parts.
Moving to the rear of the car, we started the rear tail-light install now that they have been painted inside and out. Wiring was routed through OEM style boots to help minimize any water intrusion into the lamp sockets. Replacement button contacts were used in the sockets (w-crimp) to eliminate any unneeded splicing of the wiring. Wiring complete, with bulb seal attached to the housing:
Rivet-nuts were installed for mounting the housing....
Nice snug fit to the body, and a functional test to make sure we're done here..
Moving to the passenger side, we'd need to secure the harness to the tail-light swing arm mechanism (part of the hidden gas door mod) so we planned to add some heli-coils in the arm for adel clamps. I had a long 1/8" bit to get in close to the corner, but our final size of 13/64 for the 10-32 heli-coil tap would be another issue.
Then I noticed some tubing in the scrap pile that had a 3/16 ID, just undersized. So our drill bit was clamped in the 3 jaw chuck of the lathe, and the tail stock used to press the two together.
Now we had an extended bit to complete the heli-coil installation.
...and a functional test of the wiring on the arm...
Wagon 2.0 progress, I was tasked with adding a paint job to this:
but had a couple of issues to address first prior to paint. The dropped axle design lacked lateral strength of an I-beam, so we ordered some 1/8 x 1/2 flat bar to cap the top and bottom, adding much needed strength. Next, the frame hoop was produced with limited tooling availability, and the corners made use of pie-cuts that some still remained and would show through the paint. I attempted to weld some of these closed, but realized it would be quicker to remake the hoop.
Always one to make tools into multiple use, the new tubing corners were bent on our buffer stand "radius brake"
The rear "axle" stanchions had been bolted on using rivnuts, but I was worried the side wall of the tubing may deflect from weight in the wagon. So in true Robert overbuilding form, some threaded standoffs were turned into a sleeve that would weld on both sides of the tubing for less stress upset.
Both ends were ground flush prior to welding..
Welding the front end to the new frame hoop...
Next, to clean up the front end components a bit in order to add oilite bushings...
With spindle perches welded to the ends of our "I-beam" front end... a test fit of all the bits..
And here with our center link added, the last fabrication detail needed will be the handle.. to be continued...
but had a couple of issues to address first prior to paint. The dropped axle design lacked lateral strength of an I-beam, so we ordered some 1/8 x 1/2 flat bar to cap the top and bottom, adding much needed strength. Next, the frame hoop was produced with limited tooling availability, and the corners made use of pie-cuts that some still remained and would show through the paint. I attempted to weld some of these closed, but realized it would be quicker to remake the hoop.
Always one to make tools into multiple use, the new tubing corners were bent on our buffer stand "radius brake"
The rear "axle" stanchions had been bolted on using rivnuts, but I was worried the side wall of the tubing may deflect from weight in the wagon. So in true Robert overbuilding form, some threaded standoffs were turned into a sleeve that would weld on both sides of the tubing for less stress upset.
Both ends were ground flush prior to welding..
Welding the front end to the new frame hoop...
Next, to clean up the front end components a bit in order to add oilite bushings...
With spindle perches welded to the ends of our "I-beam" front end... a test fit of all the bits..
And here with our center link added, the last fabrication detail needed will be the handle.. to be continued...
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xtremek
Well-known member
Do I see you put some Ackerman angle into the spindles? If so, nicely done. For the rear axle uprights, aren't you afraid they'll flex if a load is put in them? Always a treat to see your work, but the radio flyer wagon hits home since I've built a couple of them.
New here, great to see such a big thread with metal shaping and hot rod building. I was building a 55 nomad myself for a customer for the past 2 years before I moved into aerospace. Ill upload to photos in my fabrication thread. 
Here's the hidden fuel door in action, and why we needed the helicoils for adel clamps to hold the wiring in place....and away from moving parts.
The back end is starting to look like a car again...
....and more work on the other wagon, here's the start of the pull handle...
A functional test of the steering bits...
For the pull handle, we had tried out some knurling on aluminum to see if we liked that....
But this would have required more hardware, and the aluminum handle was over-ruled for simplicity of a welded steel tube. Here we formed the handle's hoop, and some side "extensions" were added so we could have a consistent shoulder around the "steering column" for fillet weld.
And some shots in da weeds... may have clearance issues
The back end is starting to look like a car again...
....and more work on the other wagon, here's the start of the pull handle...
A functional test of the steering bits...
For the pull handle, we had tried out some knurling on aluminum to see if we liked that....
But this would have required more hardware, and the aluminum handle was over-ruled for simplicity of a welded steel tube. Here we formed the handle's hoop, and some side "extensions" were added so we could have a consistent shoulder around the "steering column" for fillet weld.
And some shots in da weeds... may have clearance issues
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,019
What does the handle rest against when it is "attack" mode?
Any reason to add a small brake lever on one side to apply pressure to the face of a rear tire? ( I grew up on a hill)
Any reason to add a small brake lever on one side to apply pressure to the face of a rear tire? ( I grew up on a hill)
txvwnut
Well-known member
Little wagon is cool. Could use a set of big and littles.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm guessing air ride is another missed opportunity.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
So I’m like “What did I miss?” Had to scroll back and look to see. Sometimes the treasure is hiding in plain sight!
This past Saturday I went to the Jalopyrama show, held at the Talbot County Community Center in Easton, MD. I made a stop off at the parking lot of the Double T Diner in Parole, MD first though, had to finalize an online purchase of these two gems...
Here's the pair when I picked them up back in 2019. A friend put them on marketplace and I was first to call.
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,019
If he was an actual friend, he would have called you first.
Boosted1
Well-known member
Add a hand brake to the wagon and it could be a downhill racer too! Very sleek. Nice work as usual.
Some additional parts for painting, we had media blasted the door latch and tailgate latch pull rods, as well as the end clips. The rods didn't have much option for securing for paint, so we opted for some rare earth magnets screwed to the paint stand. We'd paint one side, let it flash, rotate 180*, and spray the other side. That's our plan...
Jared had made a hoop holder for the end clips so they wouldn't get lost in the media blast cabinet, and it looked like a good holder for painting as well.
We also needed to paint the steering column, so it was disassembled and media blasted to prep for epoxy primer.. To support the column on the paint stand some eyebolts were fabricated to fit the 1/4-28 threads.
I missed getting pics after primer, so we'll get those next time..
Progress for our other wagon, the bead detail at the bottom of the wagon pan has some flat spots (defects) from the factory. As we will be spraying kandy paint, those spots need to be corrected so they won't be visible.
So we made a set of dies for the Lennox to be able to give a consistent bead around the entire perimeter..
much better:
more to come...
Jared had made a hoop holder for the end clips so they wouldn't get lost in the media blast cabinet, and it looked like a good holder for painting as well.
We also needed to paint the steering column, so it was disassembled and media blasted to prep for epoxy primer.. To support the column on the paint stand some eyebolts were fabricated to fit the 1/4-28 threads.
I missed getting pics after primer, so we'll get those next time..
Progress for our other wagon, the bead detail at the bottom of the wagon pan has some flat spots (defects) from the factory. As we will be spraying kandy paint, those spots need to be corrected so they won't be visible.
So we made a set of dies for the Lennox to be able to give a consistent bead around the entire perimeter..
much better:
more to come...
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
the level of detail is always amazing !!
Rockable
Well-known member
One day, someone is going to take this car apart and go WTF!? Who in the hell built this car? Certainly not GM! 
m.kozlowski
New member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2017
- Messages
- 1
Pull rods and clips - why painting, not sending for zinc plating?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Both wagons are looking awesome Robert. Artwork for sure. 