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MP&C Shop Projects

zmotorsports

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Robert, what do you use as a backer to sand those radii in items like that?

When I was doing street rod chassis and wanting a "molded" look was doing similar by brushing on PPG Epoxy Primer, followed by some glazing putty and then sanding with paper wrapped around 1/4" through 3/8" fuel line or a wooden dowel.

Thanks and keep up the great work.
 
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MP&C

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That was a piece of 1/4 stainless rod about 3" long, ends radiused, and wrap with PSA paper..

I have quite the selection of sanding "blocks" at this point. :bounce:


Thanks!
 

zmotorsports

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That was a piece of 1/4 stainless rod about 3" long, ends radiused, and wrap with PSA paper..

I have quite the selection of sanding "blocks" at this point. :bounce:


Thanks!

Thanks for the reply Robert.

I had a small toolbox as well filled with various "custom" made sanding blocks. Some from wood, some from purchased sanding blocks just cut down and others from rubber hose. I haven't had to dig that toolbox out of storage in many years now, but I have it if/when I ever do need it. I have a funny feeling I'll be needing it here in a short while.:headscrat
 
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The other thing I've done with the rubber hose "sanding blocks" is to add a strip of metal on the inside, gives it some needed rigidity. A bit too wide of a strip and now you have an oval shape sanding block with multiple radius in one.. :thumbup:
 

zmotorsports

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The other thing I've done with the rubber hose "sanding blocks" is to add a strip of metal on the inside, gives it some needed rigidity. A bit too wide of a strip and now you have an oval shape sanding block with multiple radius in one.. :thumbup:

Great. I hadn't tried that. Thanks for the tip Robert.:beer:
 
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Vince has been getting all the core support parts prepped this past week, so last night was paint night, time for some epoxy primer..


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After epoxy:


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Even got some epoxy on the low-rider wagon's rear axles.


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Today Vince was doing more media blasting of additional interior pieces as well as some hand painting on the parking brake for the wagon. It had some bare steel still so he got most of that covered. The ratchet/gear was left alone as we thought the epoxy would anchor it permanently..


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Mike blocked out the pieces we primed last week, drilled some holes we'll need for the fan shroud, and got pieces hung up for the next round of epoxy primer.


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….and please don't tell anyone you've seen her patio table in the paint booth!


On another note, our resident shop ghost who likes to hide things has done something with the stainless trim door points. So I had put in a call to Mikey at The Stainless Shoppe. He had some original take offs in stock, and even polished them up for us. Now we have our work cut out for us in matching these!!






.
 
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Today we did an upgrade on the car trailer.. The last time we used the 4K winch it struggled and just didn't look too promising. I had been looking for used winches and this older new-in-the-box showed up. It was bought for a car trailer and never installed, so when the car trailer was recently sold the winch followed shortly behind.


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The original mount we used for the smaller winch will remain, but it now needs a twin.


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We'll cut an opening in the front pipe this time around, and a couple angles to finish it off and bolt the fairlead to.


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Mocked up....


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…..and we still have room for the bed latch to release...


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Some epoxy primer applied to the bare metal, and then all we need is the battery box.


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Thanks for the comments guys!

So has anyone had any experience using Optima battery mounted sideways? I'm considering mounting the battery under the tilting bed so the winch cables will see less movement..
 
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We got some more epoxy sprayed on the core support parts and hood latch...


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And Brandon sent some pictures of the wagon in final primer..


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A little bit closer....
 
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Found a shelf casualty on the new winch, appears the box was dropped at some point or this controller connector is just garbage.


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Being a Sunday with little open to fix this, lets see what we can do.. Measurements....


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Trying out some plastic fusion welding using a soldering iron... we better hide that...


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Used socket as a dowel pin, hammer form plates cut out of 10 gauge steel scraps.. Our cover will be made out of polished stainless for resistance to the elements.


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Just resting here for the picture, but one "tab" was clamped in the vise, vise grips clamped the open side, and the flange hammered over. Pulled out, rotate, repeat. About 5 minutes later and we are done.


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Installed...


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That should hold us..



.
 

stinkity stoink

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That right there is unbelievable!! Something nobody will pay attention to you will now draw attention to it. I’m betting it wasn’t a 5 minute job either.
 
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Cutting and finishing the hammer form plates was the most time consuming. Hammer forming the Stainless was about 5 minutes. Disassembly to re-assembly was about an hour.
 

HOTFR8

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Thanks for the comments guys!

So has anyone had any experience using Optima battery mounted sideways? I'm considering mounting the battery under the tilting bed so the winch cables will see less movement..

Not sure about an Optima but some of the other brands I have seen mounted like that in glove box type spaces so it should be possible.
 

shortykorte

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Looking forward to some color on the body and the assembly process. What a great solution to making the connector look presentable. Another useful tips & tricks.
 

larry4406

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Robert - that connector repair was pretty clever! I always learn something every time I read this thread.

My first thought was plastic fusion weld also but never would have thought about the stainless cover.
 
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Pressingonward

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That stainless cover is next level! Nice work.

Finally watched the tinsnips video you've shared a few times - learned a lot! Now I gotta buy some more tinsnips...:bounce:
 
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Thanks for following along with our projects guys!


Today I was block sanding some core support parts for one more spray. Making black powder out of black epoxy primer. Not all that exciting, so I didn't take any pictures.. But wait... it gets better! Brandon and Richard have been sanding as well, only they put some color on the roof today:


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Clear:


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Can't wait for the green and some sunlight....


.
 

BUGTHUG

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roof looks impeccable. Not easy getting that much real estate look that nice.
I have a VW bus that could use some of that love.
 

Offcenter12

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Seattle
Hi Robert,
Is that clear from SPI? Understand it's mostly the skill of the painter, but that roof is amazing!

John
 
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Thanks guys!

SPI epoxy, H/K basecoat, SPI Universal Clear. And it likely is the painter... Brandon and Richard Glymph at Absolute Rod and Custom Paint in Annapolis. Richard has been doing custom paint since late 60's.
 
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joeswamp

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Amazing to see paint finally go on this project, looks incredible.

Basic question from a non-painter: Is there a reason they started with the top? I always thought you started with the interior or the door jambs.
 

jackson1701

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this thread is how I got started in the garage journal. I'm glad to see this phase, its been a long time coming. You do amazing work, nice to see how amazing all the attention to detail is paying off.
 

TimeWarpF100

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This thread, while it may show quite a bit of work on vehicles that come in the shop, is primarily going to focus on providing metalworking/metal shaping tutorials, where ever possible using simple hand tools, in hopes that it may inspire others to learn the craft. While I am no expert, in many cases learning as I go, feedback and suggestions from others is more than welcome. Where I strive to improve methods with each lessons learned, outside suggestion is often the source to provoke such thought and vision. Many times this "re-thinking the process" comes via someone questioning that process shown, so feel free to ask away!


I've been travelling quite a bit for the day job all this past fall, which has put a cramp in time available in the shop, but that has subsided a bit so now is as good a time as any to start a shop thread..

This is a customer car, the owner and I discussed shaving the fender seams quite a while back, and she asked about it again last week, so I guess we're on the hook..


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The bolting plates are cut out of the way, and the folded flange is trimmed, leaving a bit of extra to allow for fine tuning the weld joint.


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Bottom of the fender is cut loose from the bolting plate using the cutoff wheel. Then sanding the face of the fender leaves a contrast at the bend of the flange for a good guide for trimming with snips....


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Planishing out the fold to fill the gap....


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Clamps used to test fit. Still needs some fine tuning for zero gaps, but we'll finish that another day..


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I have been following in awe since the first post. It's now over 7yrs of reading every post, looking forward to the next one!

Really looking forward to see it in final paint then watching assembly until its done.

Thanks much for all the knowledge you have shared in such detail!
 

iajonesy

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Feb 8, 2009
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Iowa
Wow, Robert, this car has turned out great. I've followed this thread from the beginning and have enjoyed all the great photos and metal working tips. I can't wait to see what comes next. Thanks for all you have taught me and others along the way. I hope we can meet some day and I can shake your hand.

Mike
 

Offcenter12

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Feb 3, 2018
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Seattle
Hi Robert,
I seem to have a knack for fixating on the odd details so was wondering what arbor/mandrels you use for the cut off wheels in the photo above. That retaining screw looks a lot bigger than what I've found. May not make any difference, but just seems like the more support the better. Stellar work as always!

Thanks, John
 
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