8man
Well-known member
Very nice.
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Picked up a new shop clock at the auction today.. This is a vintage neon Ford clock, looks to be a dealer only item as near as I can tell..
I like it! I have a few things I want to put up once the shop is more complete. Getting there . .
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Thanks guys.
Another item I picked up at the auction yesterday, this is a crescent wrench rebuild kit that came out of a now closed hardware store. New jaws, thumbwheel/gears, and even vise grip springs (which I actually need a couple). Not items you're likely to see at a big box store..
You sure have a knack for finding cool stuff!
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Looking around on Fleastray I ran across this Nomad, and the first thing I thought of was this thread. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Chevro...toration-/151468346900?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 What caught my attention was the bottom of both doors where they close up against the door pillars, and where there was what I assume new rockers put in. On both sides, the gaps are terrible. At one time, I would have probably overlooked something like that, but the ad states "restored to show car quality", yet when I saw the magnified pics of the gaps, I thought to myself.....that would never fly in Robert's shop.
I'm not knocking the Nomad by any means, but I just find it sort of funny that after reading through this thread and seeing the quality of just the minute details, how that is something you now look for in other pics.
Heck, after reading through this thread as many times as I have, I find myself looking at gaps on everything now. From thigh gaps to desk drawer gaps. 
I'm not knocking the Nomad by any means, but I just find it sort of funny that after reading through this thread and seeing the quality of just the minute details, how that is something you now look for in other pics.
Heck, after reading through this thread as many times as I have, I find myself looking at gaps on everything now. From thigh gaps to desk drawer gaps. joe49
Well-known member
That is quit a station you are building there, Robert.
The problem is that there is no set "definition" of show car quality, so unless someone has an album to show the in process work and how it was done, that description is meaningless. Even with a cave and pave that you see so much of, it may turn out presentable in the end, but how long will sub par work last? For a project vehicle, I'd rather see something in original paint and rust so I know exactly what is there over someone's "show car finish", because mud and paint make it what it aint.
TauntDevil
Well-known member
Thought I have gone through this thread before, I did it again since it has been awhile and just love all the work done and I appreciate you sharing knowledge for us on how you look at a part or section and overcome the challenge of repairing it.
Going through this gave me motivation again to try similar stuff, however, lack of funds (as in I have $5 right now..) dont allow me to do much. I work on imports mainly and I have on in particular that I am going to be attempting to widen the front fenders while attempting to keep the gaps even as well as a body indent that is stock. This also gives me motivation to learn as I also have a 68 chevelle in California with rust issues that I plan on restoring once obtained from my Father.
Thank you again for sharing! Definitely subscribed for the future posts to come.!
Going through this gave me motivation again to try similar stuff, however, lack of funds (as in I have $5 right now..) dont allow me to do much. I work on imports mainly and I have on in particular that I am going to be attempting to widen the front fenders while attempting to keep the gaps even as well as a body indent that is stock. This also gives me motivation to learn as I also have a 68 chevelle in California with rust issues that I plan on restoring once obtained from my Father.
Thank you again for sharing! Definitely subscribed for the future posts to come.!
Here's a good thread showing hand made fender flares on an import, may give you some insight....
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=9316
......and welcome to GJ!
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=9316
......and welcome to GJ!
aggierailroad
Well-known member
Robert, how did you cut the bracket for your stud welder? Was that done in a mill? It's a great shape and beats just using some angle welded on there.
aggierailroad
Well-known member
My kind of guy.
Kyle worked this evening to repair the remaining damaged threaded holes in the inner fenders. A couple of the ones for the core support were stripped, so he changed those out to 5/16-18 rivet nuts.
For the welded on clip nuts for the sheet metal style fasteners, we had drilled them out and installed 1/4-20 rivet nuts to be able to use machine screws instead. A couple of them popped off while drilling, and these were welded back on with the Miller spot welder to keep a good backing support for the rivet nut..
While he was working on that, I got busy adding some color to the welding cart. It was a toss up between some bright red (HD color) which was acrylic lacquer, or a bright yellow (H/K Lemon Yellow basecoat). As I didn't have any lacquer thinner in stock for the red, yellow it is...followed by clearcoat
Along with the purple E-wheel, this should help to brighten up the shop!
For the welded on clip nuts for the sheet metal style fasteners, we had drilled them out and installed 1/4-20 rivet nuts to be able to use machine screws instead. A couple of them popped off while drilling, and these were welded back on with the Miller spot welder to keep a good backing support for the rivet nut..
While he was working on that, I got busy adding some color to the welding cart. It was a toss up between some bright red (HD color) which was acrylic lacquer, or a bright yellow (H/K Lemon Yellow basecoat). As I didn't have any lacquer thinner in stock for the red, yellow it is...followed by clearcoat
Along with the purple E-wheel, this should help to brighten up the shop!
Last edited:
Strouty
Well-known member
I want a paint booth.
I got mine from the local Ford dealership that was no longer doing any paintwork. They were looking to install more lifts and it was in the way. I paid 1K for it, and have a bit more in some improvements/maintenance. About a year later I was told of another that could have been had for nothing, a local body shop was looking to get one gone so they could install a new downdraft booth. So if you are truly looking for one, keep you ear to the ground for any body shops upgrading theirs.
I was assembling the welding cart yesterday, as Kyle tried his hand at the rocker panel roller on the driver's side. It had a poor match to the fender, just as the passenger side did.
This made a noticeable improvement, and the front edge was tweaked using the door skin hammer..
With a more consistent contour across the gap, we can start getting the front end ready for some epoxy..
I was assembling the welding cart yesterday, as Kyle tried his hand at the rocker panel roller on the driver's side. It had a poor match to the fender, just as the passenger side did.
This made a noticeable improvement, and the front edge was tweaked using the door skin hammer..
With a more consistent contour across the gap, we can start getting the front end ready for some epoxy..
shocwav3
Well-known member
Your work is always inspiring, just great stuff.
36racin
Active member
Kyle looks like he is catching on really quick and will be a master metal guy himself one day. Tell him to start acquiring tools now alittle at a time and he will be well on his way.
Wow. I just finished reading this whole thread. I'll ta a break and cruse GJ for a bit before I check out your fairlane build.
I, like everyone else, need to thank you for your help and inspiration for my future projects. Very well written and presented.
Kyle is a lucky kid
I, like everyone else, need to thank you for your help and inspiration for my future projects. Very well written and presented.
Kyle is a lucky kid
TauntDevil
Well-known member
Thank you for the link. Very similar to what I am trying to do. Sadly, I cant even weld to thin metal without it wanting to warp (Tried filling a sunroof in that was cut on a car I have). Before the metal even melts enough to put filler on (.40 filler) it heats too much and warps. Would love to be closer to be able to learn. Someday for sure, but I definitely love following your thread.
Well today was a slight back up and punt. Part of the hood peaking work in "fixing" the low spots......
....resulted in a slight tear in the sheet metal.... It was about 1/2" long and opened about 1/32. I thought this would be a good place to use the Tig, but it didn't work out that way.. Remainder of the tear can be seen at arrow..
This helps to show that the Tig process prefers tight fitting panel joints.. Well, time to fix the gaping hole..
Making room for the new patch
Nice tight fit, tacked in place..
Tig welded, dressed and planished....
The dulled and radiused chisel was retired and this was used to tweak the peak for a nice consistent crown...
....resulted in a slight tear in the sheet metal.... It was about 1/2" long and opened about 1/32. I thought this would be a good place to use the Tig, but it didn't work out that way.. Remainder of the tear can be seen at arrow..
This helps to show that the Tig process prefers tight fitting panel joints.. Well, time to fix the gaping hole..
Making room for the new patch
Nice tight fit, tacked in place..
Tig welded, dressed and planished....
The dulled and radiused chisel was retired and this was used to tweak the peak for a nice consistent crown...
Hot Chop shop
Well-known member
Your thread is so awesome!
Although it does make me want to quit doing any small fabrication I do in my garage I feel like I look like this...
Thank you for taking the time to spell out every step you take and add photos... I know the time that it adds to a project.
Although it does make me want to quit doing any small fabrication I do in my garage I feel like I look like this...
Thank you for taking the time to spell out every step you take and add photos... I know the time that it adds to a project.
This helps to show that the Tig process prefers tight fitting panel joints.. Well, time to fix the gaping hole..
Could you have used the MIG to "fill" the hole in the hood?
If I were looking at this I might use a copper backing plate on the inside and fill in the hole with the mig and than some careful grinding. I used to do this quite a bit to fill in emblem holes.
Kevin
Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
Nice work!
Capt. Chrysler
Capt. Chrysler
Sure, I could have used the Mig from the get-go, but was trying to keep shrinking issues at bay so I wouldn't lose any more shape there.. That was a low area that I was trying to stretch to bring it up when the tear occurred. As to filling the hole using a copper backer, the larger the blob you put on, the more shrinking, so I wasn't too keen on that method. Part of the strength of the hood is from this ridge having a nice consistent crown from front to back, it adds support for the surrounding sheet metal. Any low spots in this ridge are also weak spots, so where some would just add filler to take care of any cosmetics, IMO it is more important to remove the low spot and have it structurally sound.
Thanks for the questions and comments!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome work as usualy Robert.
Mike.
Mike.
joeswamp
Well-known member
Great work. Are you trying to move away from the Mig "dot" technique and towards Tig? Which technique in your opinion takes less time?
I knew that the Mig would be problematic with shrinking and that the repaired area would be hardened, making any stretching to bring up the low area even more of a chore. The Tig offers a slightly softer weld, so that was the driving factor for using it, nothing else.
All that aside, Mig is the most labor intensive process when working on sheet metal. Regardless of the time involved, I think anyone can use the Mig process I have shown and get good results. I'd say to use the process that you're most comfortable with, but never stop working to improve your methods/skills...
Last edited:
Well I thought we were done spraying yellow paint when the welding cart was complete, but I guess it's been long overdue. It's been quite a while that we've seen any bus repairs, but one got the side skirt panel mangled up enough that the county's transportation dept took it out of service. It was raining so I didn't get pictures of the bus today, so I'll have to get that in a few days.
Picked up some stainless #12 screws and Kyle media blasted the heads for adhesion for paint...
SPI Epoxy primer mixed as sealer...
Some BASF Urethane applied...
The rub strip at the bottom of the skirt panel was pretty mangled as well, the new comes in a stock 10' length, so it will need to be cut to size and drilled prior to black paint. We also have a brace behind the skirt that was pushed back a ways, it will need to be pulled out and re-welded. More to come...
Picked up some stainless #12 screws and Kyle media blasted the heads for adhesion for paint...
SPI Epoxy primer mixed as sealer...
Some BASF Urethane applied...
The rub strip at the bottom of the skirt panel was pretty mangled as well, the new comes in a stock 10' length, so it will need to be cut to size and drilled prior to black paint. We also have a brace behind the skirt that was pushed back a ways, it will need to be pulled out and re-welded. More to come...
Actually that is the bus owners shop. I'd have to work in the driveway with it at my place. We'll get all the parts painted up at my place and go to his place and assemble. We do have a couple braces to straighten and one to re-weld. Not sure what he ran into, but I believe it was possibly a steel post in the parking lot of a fast food place, he had dropped off his passengers and had gone out for lunch..
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Now for the rub strip.. It was cut to size and holes drilled per the original. (had to straighten it a bit to transfer the holes) Here's the SPI epoxy:
....and the black urethane..
Should get all the parts put back together tomorrow, all ready for inspection..
NICE!
I have a couple 66 f100 projects that need finishing. What address do I send them to?
Ohmthis
Well-known member
I'm sure your work will pass with flying colors, on the uni, did you put the louvers in the hood?