MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
I don't know, all that work on floor pans and firewalls, and no rust! I could fly out and drive back in an FE? Awful tempting....
edit n/m
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427FAB
Well-known member
Always enjoy looking at the progress of your projects Robert.Yo are truly an inspiration to me and I'm sure plenty of others .
89Vette
Well-known member
Awesome thread, learning a lot!
I am stealing that idea for the copper backer in post #928!
I am stealing that idea for the copper backer in post #928!
Thanks for the comments guys!
A rare earth magnet will hold better!
Tonight Kyle was putting the finishing touches on prepping the passenger door for paint. Lots of nooks and crannies. We ended up moving the drill press so we could open the media blast cabinet door wide enough to put the door inside. It was a snug fit, but made easier work of cleaning the door on the ends... The rest will be done by hand...
After adding the radius to the doors, it only made sense that the lift gate needed the same modification. Sorry to bore you with more of the same, just wait until we get to wet sanding
Test fit the radius...
Scoring the second cut location, and tacking in place..
Snapped of the excess....
Checking the radius, and welded in and dressed...
They're calling for a heat wave this weekend (in high 40's on Sunday), so we should get some more primer sprayed....
A rare earth magnet will hold better!
Tonight Kyle was putting the finishing touches on prepping the passenger door for paint. Lots of nooks and crannies. We ended up moving the drill press so we could open the media blast cabinet door wide enough to put the door inside. It was a snug fit, but made easier work of cleaning the door on the ends... The rest will be done by hand...
After adding the radius to the doors, it only made sense that the lift gate needed the same modification. Sorry to bore you with more of the same, just wait until we get to wet sanding
Test fit the radius...
Scoring the second cut location, and tacking in place..
Snapped of the excess....
Checking the radius, and welded in and dressed...
They're calling for a heat wave this weekend (in high 40's on Sunday), so we should get some more primer sprayed....
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TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Thanks for the comments guys!
A rare earth magnet will hold better!
Tonight Kyle was putting the finishing touches on prepping the passenger door for paint. Lots of nooks and crannies. We ended up moving the drill press so we could open the media blast cabinet door wide enough to put the door inside. It was a snug fit, but made easier work of cleaning the door on the ends... The rest will be done by hand...
After adding the radius to the doors, it only made sense that the lift gate needed the same modification. Sorry to bore you with more of the same, just wait until we get to wet sanding
Test fit the radius...
Scoring the second cut location, and tacking in place..
Snapped of the excess....
Checking the radius, and welded in and dressed...
They're calling for a heat wave this weekend (in high 40's on Sunday), so we should get some more primer sprayed....
NICE! I remember someone asked if you had an idea on amount of hours in project so far. I missed it if you answered. Would be curious to know.
I like the 40's for a high heat wave . . 11:21PM here and its 48 deg
High of 72-75 thru next tuesday. Then a COOL DOWN to 70!
Here anything under 80 is considered freezing.
TommyD
Well-known member
Great thread Robert! I've spent a lot of my spare time in the last week reading through this thread and your other thread and have learned so much through your description and follow up photos...even bloopers!
Did you do something to the pressure of your blasting rig allow you to media blast your parts, I remember panels grew during your experiment.
How much dressing do you do to welds, that you can reach, that never see the light of day?
Did you do something to the pressure of your blasting rig allow you to media blast your parts, I remember panels grew during your experiment.
How much dressing do you do to welds, that you can reach, that never see the light of day?
Need to pull the time cards and add it up. I'll try to do that this weekend, although my timekeeping before I got the time clock missed quite a bit. One of the best things I've added to the shop.
For the sandblasting experiment, I had the pressure up quite a bit and used too coarse of media to try and duplicate results that someone else had experienced using a "professional" sandblaster. Basically the peening action that resulted from that experiment is equivalent to harder hits with larger hammers. For doing sheetmetal in my cabinet, we back the pressure off to below 50 psi and use finer media.
For dressing the welds, given adequate access, both sides are dressed to flat. In installing a patch panel you are attempting to duplicate the original sheet metal that existed before. If the factory didn't have a blob weld going across a panel and hidden under filler, then we shouldn't either. All that "extra" thickness will affect how the panel flexes, expands, etc. where too extreme a weld thickness may have the same effect of showing ghost lines as an overlapped step flange repair. If the weld performed yielded full penetration welds, as we should be doing, there is no benefit to leaving excess weld proud on sheet metal.
Kyle finishing up the prep on the door this morning, found another use for the GatorMeet radius square, here used as a sanding block to get into the tight crevices...
Front fenders were both prepped with DA and 80 grit..
SPI Epoxy is mixed to allow for induction...
As the body parts had been soda blasted, it was cleaned with a hot soapy water (dish detergent) and a grey Scotchbrite, followed by a towel drying session.
Then this was followed up with preclean...
The door handle backing plates had not yet been installed on the back side of the door skins, so a coat of epoxy was sprayed on both, and then bolted together to allow to cure..
A good shot of the door paint fixture in action...
Two coats applied...
Front fenders were both prepped with DA and 80 grit..
SPI Epoxy is mixed to allow for induction...
As the body parts had been soda blasted, it was cleaned with a hot soapy water (dish detergent) and a grey Scotchbrite, followed by a towel drying session.
Then this was followed up with preclean...
The door handle backing plates had not yet been installed on the back side of the door skins, so a coat of epoxy was sprayed on both, and then bolted together to allow to cure..
A good shot of the door paint fixture in action...
Two coats applied...
1971gsfan
Well-known member
Looking great
YJ4000
Well-known member
As a lot of other people have said GREAT WORK!! Both with the metal and explaining how you achieve the results.
Thank You, Ryan
Thank You, Ryan
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Wow man, color!!
Looking real good Robert, you DA man!
Looking real good Robert, you DA man!
Thanks for the comments guys, it feels good to finally get some of the bare metal covered in paint, even though we still have quite a ways to go...
This evening while we had painted parts still lounging in the booth, we took some time to clean up and put tools away..... hey, there's that welding table!
And found a new location for the ewheel.. Still gives plenty of room for access to the parts bins and gets it out of the way elsewhere in the shop..
After that we worked to fix some pin holes along the passenger quarter's weld.. using a light from the back side to show the pin holes...
....and this one was a pit from the back side, more of the dreaded dirt thrown from the rear tire causing rust....
This evening while we had painted parts still lounging in the booth, we took some time to clean up and put tools away..... hey, there's that welding table!
And found a new location for the ewheel.. Still gives plenty of room for access to the parts bins and gets it out of the way elsewhere in the shop..
After that we worked to fix some pin holes along the passenger quarter's weld.. using a light from the back side to show the pin holes...
....and this one was a pit from the back side, more of the dreaded dirt thrown from the rear tire causing rust....
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For a 2 gallon kit, the SPI was $177 and change delivered to my door. Same qty of H/K is in the neighborhood of $250 plus shipping.. Other than that, no reason. I've had good luck with the H/K and am liking the SPI so far. I do like the semi gloss finish of the SPI, helps to see any missed dings while you can still do something with them, and also eliminates the need for guide coat..
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Tonight we finished up radius-ing the liftgate opening...
Next, we moved on to de-leading and shaving the last pinch weld seam at the back of the car. We've eliminated all of these to get rid of all the dirt/rust traps that we can...
Removing the excess....
Getting some gap filler.....
Flattening out the creases....
Tacked in place, and test fitting a tail light before trimming our gap filler....
....and we'll get the rest of the de-leading finished on Saturday...
Next, we moved on to de-leading and shaving the last pinch weld seam at the back of the car. We've eliminated all of these to get rid of all the dirt/rust traps that we can...
Removing the excess....
Getting some gap filler.....
Flattening out the creases....
Tacked in place, and test fitting a tail light before trimming our gap filler....
....and we'll get the rest of the de-leading finished on Saturday...
larry4406
Well-known member
Robert - on the de-leading, how do you get the lead out and get it so clean? Obviously, the torch is melting the lead, but do you get it so hot it runs out on its own (creating a mess elsewhere) or do you get it pasty and use putty knife to coax it out?
Keep up the inspiring work!
Keep up the inspiring work!
Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
Purple EWheel?
Capt. Chrysler
Capt. Chrysler
Dare to be different!
It's House of Kolor Pavo Purple:
....... that I had left over from a motorcycle paint job. I don't know if the ewheel shows up on your computer screen as purple, as mine shows it as a blue color. But it is about as close as you can get to Mopar's Plum Crazy, as shown in the sample above..
It's House of Kolor Pavo Purple:
....... that I had left over from a motorcycle paint job. I don't know if the ewheel shows up on your computer screen as purple, as mine shows it as a blue color. But it is about as close as you can get to Mopar's Plum Crazy, as shown in the sample above..
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Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
Purple on the DROID!
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BigMike782
Well-known member
Robert, you are not leaving no stone un-turned you are leaving no grain of sand cleaned,pressed and folded!
I just cannot get over the level of detail!
I just cannot get over the level of detail!
RickP
Well-known member
You do amazing work! Thanks for the excellent descriptions - I'm going to have to think of a project just to get some practice with your methods. And thanks for the link to the video about how to use aviation snips - I had no idea I was doing it wrong for all these years.
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Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Robert.......if I am taking thins the right way, there is now NO flange between the fender and tail piece? You flattened them out and are going to **** weld them together? Huh......I would have never thunk it, but it would eliminate and dirt catchers underneath.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Bill Hines probably cringes every time you remove lead from a car. 
Guys, thanks for all the comments and questions.
Rick, I learned a few things myself when I watched that video. I'd been using snips for a good number of years, and had the awakening that I'd been doing things wrong!
Kevin, for the rear tail pan, yes, the flanges and pinch / spot welds were removed....
finishing the vertical welds...
Given the removal of these seams and fixing the ones at the top of the A pillars, yes, all of the leaded seams have been removed. Keep in mind, the primary reason the factory uses pinch weld seams or spot welds is for speed of assembly. Doesn't necessarily mean it's the best way. I worked on a 1951 Triumph Saloon, and where the quarters wrapped around at the rear window there were gas welded **** joints. Never saw any rust there at all, the pinch welded flanges on this car are another story...
Rick, I learned a few things myself when I watched that video. I'd been using snips for a good number of years, and had the awakening that I'd been doing things wrong!
Kevin, for the rear tail pan, yes, the flanges and pinch / spot welds were removed....
finishing the vertical welds...
Given the removal of these seams and fixing the ones at the top of the A pillars, yes, all of the leaded seams have been removed. Keep in mind, the primary reason the factory uses pinch weld seams or spot welds is for speed of assembly. Doesn't necessarily mean it's the best way. I worked on a 1951 Triumph Saloon, and where the quarters wrapped around at the rear window there were gas welded **** joints. Never saw any rust there at all, the pinch welded flanges on this car are another story...
L&L CUSTOM
Member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2014
- Messages
- 5
Robert , Still Glad to see your at it still injoy your posts keep it up ! Larry
pancho400cid
Well-known member
Like a bunch of people before me, just saying thanks for the detailed info!
Just when you think yer "done" with the interweb you stumble across something like this thread.
I'm only half way through but really enjoying it. Unlikely I'll ever need 99.2% of it but I'm putting the URL in my "useful links" file.
People of your ability are few and far between, and rarer every year..... No "app" for metal-forming.
Power to ya!
Just when you think yer "done" with the interweb you stumble across something like this thread.
I'm only half way through but really enjoying it. Unlikely I'll ever need 99.2% of it but I'm putting the URL in my "useful links" file.
People of your ability are few and far between, and rarer every year..... No "app" for metal-forming.
Power to ya!
HD FLHX
Well-known member
A good shot of the door paint fixture in action...
I really like that door stand, it offers so much better access to the whole door than most stands on the market. I may have to barrow that design from you
dcmus
Well-known member
very nice work im liking this thread
I subscribed, great thread for someone like me who hasn't a clue.
56vette461
Well-known member
I just stole a version of your door stand design for working on my corvette. It has really made a difference in the work angle Thanks for sharing
guilobato
Well-known member
Nice work, great restoration!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I'm practicing welding up a sawed gap in a piece of scrap panel, with guidance from your earlier post that showed how hammering the dots takes the shrink right back out of the panels.
Seeing the sides of the gap go right back where they started as I hammer the dots gives me confidence that whatever happens when I'm actually working on the car I'll be able to fix it. Doubtful I'd feel that way without this thread. Thanks for the detailed info, you're the best
FWIW, this practice is part of preparing to fix this little bit on the leading edge of a road runner quarter panel
Seeing the sides of the gap go right back where they started as I hammer the dots gives me confidence that whatever happens when I'm actually working on the car I'll be able to fix it. Doubtful I'd feel that way without this thread. Thanks for the detailed info, you're the best
FWIW, this practice is part of preparing to fix this little bit on the leading edge of a road runner quarter panel
Attachments
Thanks for all the comments guys. This time of year I have to use some auxiliary kerosene heating to keep the booth warm enough to paint, so the stands were born out of a need to get it all done in one sitting to save time and fuel costs.. Glad to hear some of the content in here is helping others with their own projects!
Sorry I'm a little late posting the progress from yesterday.. We were supposed to finish up the passenger rear quarter, but looks like some reproduction tail light bezels are on the way. So just to be on the safe side, we'll post pone that so any final fitment will be to those parts once they get here... In the meantime, we got the primed body parts re-assembled yesterday, here installing the doors.....
The SPI epoxy does a good job of providing it's own "guide coat". I blocked this with 180 grit...
Here's some of the low spots filled with some evercoat...
While I was block sanding, Kyle started modifying the hold down bracket for the battery. The post cutouts were on catty corner and didn't match todays battery posts. We had test fit the bracket on a 24F series Interstate today at Big Ed's Tires. Here's the filler piece....
Shown here is the new location...
Filler welded in place, and the new relief cut out...
One down, one to go...
The SPI epoxy does a good job of providing it's own "guide coat". I blocked this with 180 grit...
Here's some of the low spots filled with some evercoat...
While I was block sanding, Kyle started modifying the hold down bracket for the battery. The post cutouts were on catty corner and didn't match todays battery posts. We had test fit the bracket on a 24F series Interstate today at Big Ed's Tires. Here's the filler piece....
Shown here is the new location...
Filler welded in place, and the new relief cut out...
One down, one to go...
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outtaplace
Active member
Robert,
What do you use for personal respiration in your paint booth? Charcoal canister mask? Fresh air system? Etc.? I'm curious as I plan to paint my 65 Dodge in my garage in a temporary booth this spring (6-mil plastic to keep the rest of my stuff over-spray free, hosing down the floor for dust control, and opening the front and back garage doors for airflow ((I know it's not ideal but its what I have to work with)). Based on the knowledge and thoroughness you demonstrate on everything you post I am interested to know your thoughts on a mask/respirator/etc to keep the VOCs out of your system.
Thanks for all the great information and tips. I've been following for a while and enthusiastically await every update.
What do you use for personal respiration in your paint booth? Charcoal canister mask? Fresh air system? Etc.? I'm curious as I plan to paint my 65 Dodge in my garage in a temporary booth this spring (6-mil plastic to keep the rest of my stuff over-spray free, hosing down the floor for dust control, and opening the front and back garage doors for airflow ((I know it's not ideal but its what I have to work with)). Based on the knowledge and thoroughness you demonstrate on everything you post I am interested to know your thoughts on a mask/respirator/etc to keep the VOCs out of your system.
Thanks for all the great information and tips. I've been following for a while and enthusiastically await every update.
Most of what I have in my shop is used auction or CL purchases, so yes, I am a cheap *******. A little over a year or so ago I purchased one of the SATA Vision air supplied hoods, complete with the belt filter/regulator assembly. I had been looking for one to come along for about 4 years when I got that one. It was a couple years old and un-used, got a heck of a deal on it. I also have all the needed filters (including charcoal filter) on the booth air line that I can use it for breathing air. So I am good to go on iso's. But anyone thinking of using half masks, one thing to keep in mind is that isocyanates are also absorbed through the skin, and especially attracted to moisture. That means your eyes... So for better protection, anyone using a filter respirator and spraying iso's should at a minimum use a full face respirator. The one I used before getting the Sata hood was a 3M full face respirator, a 6000 series. This keeps the iso's out of your eyes, and features the same replaceable filter cartridges 3M uses on most of their masks.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...Series?N=5023214+3294361910+3294857473&rt=rud
To eliminate absorption through the skin wear a tyvek suit or at a minimum long sleeve shirt and some nitrile gloves.
OSHA doesn't care for filtered masks when spraying isocyanates because iso's are odorless and will give no warning of filter saturation. So if you decide on a filtered mask, get a full face one. And since the filter life is limited, when done with that paint job I'd throw the filters away so you'll be forced to get replacement filters (about $20, cheap health insurance) for the next time you plan on spraying.
Isocyanate sensitivity is nothing to play with. I'd start by looking for a Hobbyair or similar air supplied respirator used on CL or elsewhere, and work through to the other options from there.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...Series?N=5023214+3294361910+3294857473&rt=rud
To eliminate absorption through the skin wear a tyvek suit or at a minimum long sleeve shirt and some nitrile gloves.
OSHA doesn't care for filtered masks when spraying isocyanates because iso's are odorless and will give no warning of filter saturation. So if you decide on a filtered mask, get a full face one. And since the filter life is limited, when done with that paint job I'd throw the filters away so you'll be forced to get replacement filters (about $20, cheap health insurance) for the next time you plan on spraying.
Isocyanate sensitivity is nothing to play with. I'd start by looking for a Hobbyair or similar air supplied respirator used on CL or elsewhere, and work through to the other options from there.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
When a box of fifteen Trizact 5000-grit disks (6") costs the best part of $100, two gallons of primer costs $177 and a couple of gallons of basecoat/clearcoat costs more than $600, a $400 machine that provides breathable air doesn't sound that bad. That is if you plan to do more than one paint job before you die (OK, maybe only undergo long-term respiratory therapy).
I use those 3M masks for aerosol painting. Not having a spare set of lungs I bought a Breathecool II system http://www.turbineproducts.com/breathecool-ii-supplied-air-respirator-system-w-tyvek-hood/.
I installed a piece of 3/4" copper in the garage wall with male hose bib fittings on both ends. The machine sits outside the garage/spray booth and the 50-foot air hose connects inside. On a hot day I can reverse it and have air conditioned air from inside the garage pumped outside to the mask for sandblasting or small part painting (cardboard box booth).
I use those 3M masks for aerosol painting. Not having a spare set of lungs I bought a Breathecool II system http://www.turbineproducts.com/breathecool-ii-supplied-air-respirator-system-w-tyvek-hood/.
I installed a piece of 3/4" copper in the garage wall with male hose bib fittings on both ends. The machine sits outside the garage/spray booth and the 50-foot air hose connects inside. On a hot day I can reverse it and have air conditioned air from inside the garage pumped outside to the mask for sandblasting or small part painting (cardboard box booth).