I told you he IS GOOD!
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
I told you he IS GOOD!
Glenwood
New member
Thanks for the comments guys, but I am far from a master. Still learning every day.
Scott, there will be some contrast and even some stainless, but yes, much of the hardware and components will be simply coated in SPI epoxy primer. Other than stainless parts, it all needs to get primed. If some parts can stop there, we'll get done quicker. At the end of the day, this will be a nicely detailed driver, the intent was never for it to be a show car.
I started some engine assembly this evening, getting the flex plate bolted on and torqued down, starter installed and checked for clearance, and checked clearances for the header..
Kyle blocked out the doors, it looks like our "adjustment" with the stovepipe crimper pliers did the trick to remove the high spot...
Scott, there will be some contrast and even some stainless, but yes, much of the hardware and components will be simply coated in SPI epoxy primer. Other than stainless parts, it all needs to get primed. If some parts can stop there, we'll get done quicker. At the end of the day, this will be a nicely detailed driver, the intent was never for it to be a show car.
I started some engine assembly this evening, getting the flex plate bolted on and torqued down, starter installed and checked for clearance, and checked clearances for the header..
Kyle blocked out the doors, it looks like our "adjustment" with the stovepipe crimper pliers did the trick to remove the high spot...
Nice use of the crimper. Looks like Malco still makes theirs.
http://malcoproducts.com/product/hvacr/metal-duct/duct-tools/5blade-crimper-redline
http://malcoproducts.com/product/hvacr/metal-duct/duct-tools/5blade-crimper-redline
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Looking good Robert!
In your "spare time" I know of a guy with a '66 Ford that needs some box side panels along with some front fenders that need a tire clearance mod.
Send to same address as the scooter fender? Ha~ha
In your "spare time" I know of a guy with a '66 Ford that needs some box side panels along with some front fenders that need a tire clearance mod.
Send to same address as the scooter fender? Ha~ha
^^^^
That's funny!
Cars looking good and coming together. And Boy those doors are going to look super straight Robert, and of course giving credit to Kyle's work.
Has the owner made any decisions on the colors yet?
That's funny!
Cars looking good and coming together. And Boy those doors are going to look super straight Robert, and of course giving credit to Kyle's work.
Has the owner made any decisions on the colors yet?
Divcod
Well-known member
Robert,
Why do you use epoxy for block sanding? In a discussion with the SPI tech rep he indicated it would be better seal with epoxy and the use primer. Using a primer vs a high build primer will result in the best results although it will use more labour.
Looking forward to seeing the House of Color green on the car. Am getting impatient and it isn't even my project.
All the best.
Why do you use epoxy for block sanding? In a discussion with the SPI tech rep he indicated it would be better seal with epoxy and the use primer. Using a primer vs a high build primer will result in the best results although it will use more labour.
Looking forward to seeing the House of Color green on the car. Am getting impatient and it isn't even my project.
All the best.
Dave, when we did the 65 Fairlane we used the H/K epoxy and Slick Sand. Now a few years later I can see some areas where it appears some very minor shrinking occurred. (I can see it, the owner can't) So in an attempt to eliminate that issue, I've been side stepping the high build to see if we have better results.
hsvtoolfool
Well-known member
Robert,
Dave's post reminded me that I wanted to double-check my
understanding of your process...
1. Get metal straight and smooth as possible.
2. SPI Epoxy, 1 or two guide coats
3. Sand to find problems
4. Sparingly bondo lowest spots (hammer & dolly?)
5. Repeat epoxy and sanding steps until ready for paint.
So my question is: have you "encapsulated" bondo in the epoxy layers?
Or do you remove the primer where bondo is needed and then spray
the epoxy over that? I like the idea of putting bondo over a solid layer
of epoxy from a corrosion protection aspect, but I'm worried about
primer shrinkage. Do you gently hammer and dolly low spots after
the first guide coat of epoxy?
Thanks!
Dave's post reminded me that I wanted to double-check my
understanding of your process...
1. Get metal straight and smooth as possible.
2. SPI Epoxy, 1 or two guide coats
3. Sand to find problems
4. Sparingly bondo lowest spots (hammer & dolly?)
5. Repeat epoxy and sanding steps until ready for paint.
So my question is: have you "encapsulated" bondo in the epoxy layers?
Or do you remove the primer where bondo is needed and then spray
the epoxy over that? I like the idea of putting bondo over a solid layer
of epoxy from a corrosion protection aspect, but I'm worried about
primer shrinkage. Do you gently hammer and dolly low spots after
the first guide coat of epoxy?
Thanks!
We worked Sunday this past weekend, Kyle got a few more pieces media blasted so we could get some epoxy sprayed.. Then, as I was spraying, Kyle gave the wagon a Scotchbrite scrub with some soapy water to neutralize the soda...
Doors moved out of the way.....for now..
Sometimes the part has no holes for securing for paint....
Doors moved out of the way.....for now..
Sometimes the part has no holes for securing for paint....
hsvtoolfool
Well-known member
Thanks Robert! My intuition told me that banging on epoxy
would dirty the body hammer face and/or dolly. It's nice to
know it's not really a nuisance.
would dirty the body hammer face and/or dolly. It's nice to
know it's not really a nuisance.
36racin
Active member
I don't know about you guys but I'm ready to see the color on the car!!!
Divcod
Well-known member
Robert,
Did you consider smoothing the inside of the hood? Saw a truck where they took an extra hood and worked it to fit the inside, supper cool. Only problem it was so good that most people would not have recognized the craftsmanship. I don't have a picture but could get one after returning.
I used glass beads / water for blasting as saw a high end paint job ruined from the lack of neutralizing soda. Guess it is clean, clean and clean!
Like others am looking forward to seeing the color, although sometimes think it is a shame to hide all the excellent metal work under a coat of paint. Maybe the owner will accept a clear coat.
All the best
Did you consider smoothing the inside of the hood? Saw a truck where they took an extra hood and worked it to fit the inside, supper cool. Only problem it was so good that most people would not have recognized the craftsmanship. I don't have a picture but could get one after returning.
I used glass beads / water for blasting as saw a high end paint job ruined from the lack of neutralizing soda. Guess it is clean, clean and clean!
Like others am looking forward to seeing the color, although sometimes think it is a shame to hide all the excellent metal work under a coat of paint. Maybe the owner will accept a clear coat.
All the best
Dave, we need to block it out and wet sand, and the inside of the hood should be ready for topcoat.. I'm with you guys, need to see paint on this thing. All in time..
Tonight's update, Headers installed using stainless socket heads....
Trans and driveshaft installed
Exhaust installation...
Steel donut gaskets....
Exhaust that will be heard but not seen....
Header clearance issues to the steering box...
Header clearance tool for tube #3...
Drum sander clearance for tube #2... looks like we have some touch up painting to do..
Much better...
Tonight's update, Headers installed using stainless socket heads....
Trans and driveshaft installed
Exhaust installation...
Steel donut gaskets....
Exhaust that will be heard but not seen....
Header clearance issues to the steering box...
Header clearance tool for tube #3...
Drum sander clearance for tube #2... looks like we have some touch up painting to do..
Much better...
dkroth
Well-known member
Robert,
Looking good!
What kind of coating is that on the headers and exhaust?
Looking good!
What kind of coating is that on the headers and exhaust?
polexican23
Banned
so should this every need working on, will the mechanic/owner have to remove the steering box to remove/change the headers?
She ordered the ceramic coated headers to hopefully negate any need for changing the headers. At the time she ordered the headers and steering box, it was known that minor modifications were needed, we are now finding the meaning of minor.. But yes, header removal at the least would need the steering box loosened and leaned toward the drivers side if not removed altogether. The joys of the 10 lb contents and 5 lb container.. This is a "conversion" power steering box, which is a bit larger than the stock manual steering box..
Last edited:
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Robert....when you go to paint the car, what color of base sealer are you going to use? Are you going to shoot over black, gray, or white?
HD FLHX
Well-known member
This is interesting to me, the last few years I've become a big fan of poly primers. I haven't seen any issues the Evercoat or Claussen products I've used. Just out of curiosity what did you top coat the slick sand with?
House of Kolor KP2CF was used on the bare steel, then Slick Sand, then KP2CF to seal afterwards. I've used the H/K epoxy on motorcycle parts as high build where there was no other product under the base, and have never seen shrinking issues with the epoxy, so I attributed the Fairlane defects to the SS...
First off, thanks to all who let me know the flex plate was in backwards. I don't normally wrench on drivetrains, so glad to find out before the body was on the frame. I guess all the decals gave the false sense of "this side out". Wouldn't you know, when I turned it over, the instructions for dummies was right there in plain sight!
All back together....
Working on another header clearance issue...
Removed the factory carriage bolts, they will be replaced with some grade 8 hex head bolts, and to add more clearance we'll get rid of the nuts inside and use some locking heli-coils..
....for much better clearance.
More parts added....
All back together....
Working on another header clearance issue...
Removed the factory carriage bolts, they will be replaced with some grade 8 hex head bolts, and to add more clearance we'll get rid of the nuts inside and use some locking heli-coils..
....for much better clearance.
More parts added....
shortykorte
Well-known member
Nice header persuading tool. Did you dimple the 4th tube or just move the whole tube slightly? As always, great tips, great solutions and fabulous looking rolling chassis.
MScott
Well-known member
I know you probably didn't want to dimple or otherwise pinch those ceramic headers, but just so you know the actual effect of such bashing or bending headers to get clearance, you might want to take a look at this video. It shows some actual results on a dyno. Surprised me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=azPKIjxmmdU
Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
Robert, I have to ask. Did you remove the paint over spay from the engine transmission mounting surfaces?
Capt. Chrysler
Capt Chrysler
Well-known member
My buddy always has over spray on the engine and trans mounting surface. I always razor blade it off. Just an on going battle for 20+ years now.
Capt. Chrysler
Capt. Chrysler
Gotcha!
Well the stainless lock nuts showed up today, so we pulled the third member, cleaned the mounting surfaces, installed a new gasket and torqued things down.
We also had taken delivery of the Explorer brake kit that gives us shoes inside the rotor for the parking brake. So we have some Lincoln Versailles parts if anyone needs some...
Went digging through the brake hose selection at the local Napa store, Guy Auto Parts. This should work for the rear, front hoses should be here Saturday.
Now we need a bracket to anchor the hose end... We came up with this design using 16 gauge CRS, and planned to clamp it under the U-bolts...
Now looking at it, I'm not sure I want the U-bolts off the axle housing, and may just cut the ears off and plug weld the bracket to the housing. Thoughts?
Well the stainless lock nuts showed up today, so we pulled the third member, cleaned the mounting surfaces, installed a new gasket and torqued things down.
We also had taken delivery of the Explorer brake kit that gives us shoes inside the rotor for the parking brake. So we have some Lincoln Versailles parts if anyone needs some...
Went digging through the brake hose selection at the local Napa store, Guy Auto Parts. This should work for the rear, front hoses should be here Saturday.
Now we need a bracket to anchor the hose end... We came up with this design using 16 gauge CRS, and planned to clamp it under the U-bolts...
Now looking at it, I'm not sure I want the U-bolts off the axle housing, and may just cut the ears off and plug weld the bracket to the housing. Thoughts?
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Gotcha!
Well the stainless lock nuts showed up today, so we pulled the third member, cleaned the mounting surfaces, installed a new gasket and torqued things down.
We also had taken delivery of the Explorer brake kit that gives us shoes inside the rotor for the parking brake. So we have some Lincoln Versailles parts if anyone needs some...
Went digging through the brake hose selection at the local Napa store, Guy Auto Parts. This should work for the rear, front hoses should be here Saturday.
Now we need a bracket to anchor the hose end... We came up with this design using 16 gauge CRS, and planned to clamp it under the U-bolts...
Now looking at it, I'm not sure I want the U-bolts off the axle housing, and may just cut the ears off and plug weld the bracket to the housing. Thoughts?
Looking good! I like the park brake inside of the disc setup, same deal I have on Eco.
You are planning on running hardline from hose to junction block then?
IMHO I think it would be better if the bracket was direct on housing.
It would seem less chance of U-Bolts working loose that way.
Make sure you lube all of the e-brake parts as moisture will get trapped inside there and cause problems. I would leave plenty of clearance around the shoes too as they also have a tendency to swell a little and stick. I have battled this before and found out the hard way that moisture loves to live inside there. You probably already know this anyway, but others may not. Keep the pics coming.
Mike
Mike
Divcod
Well-known member
Plug weld mounting is more to the standard of all the other work.
xtremek
Well-known member
I'm going to agree with everyone else, plug weld it. It'll look better.
polexican23
Banned
oh, man. the memories of beating loose my exlorer's rotors. and having to buy many, many more parts than planned.