shortykorte
Well-known member
Job security. Looks like an interesting job.
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
DieselDent
Well-known member
The rear flange for the Biederman fender is cut out of some 12 gauge steel and tacked in place..
This flange bolts to the front of the running board..
The front mounting flange is cut out of 12 gauge steel and tacked in place..
This flange bolts to the filler panel behind the front bumper.
With them tacked in place, we'll do one more test fit and then finish the welds.
Don't think I showed this on the other side, but here's how we find the center of the bend for dimensioning the seat bracket..
Bent up and a test fit...
Relief cuts made for the next fold.....
This flange bolts to the front of the running board..
The front mounting flange is cut out of 12 gauge steel and tacked in place..
This flange bolts to the filler panel behind the front bumper.
With them tacked in place, we'll do one more test fit and then finish the welds.
Don't think I showed this on the other side, but here's how we find the center of the bend for dimensioning the seat bracket..
Bent up and a test fit...
Relief cuts made for the next fold.....
Guster
Well-known member
Phew... just scanned through much of this thread again to refresh myself on the off dolly technique and to find the post where you show removing creases using the PVC pipe fitting as a backing.
Just wanted to say thanks for the tip.
Scored a four drawer tool cabinet that was new in box but dropped off a forklift and crunched the rear bottom corner and buckled up the paneling in three sides. Great practise hey?
Ground a bit to drill out the spotwelds. Need much more practice with that as I ended up drilling through most. Not the end of the world and already patched up what would be the bottom/back panel of the weld with help of a copper backing strip.
Slowly getting the hang of bumping out the creases and bends. Just taking my time and progressively getting through it in multiple passes. Toughest part is work holding and not making so much noise. Not having a shot bag yet I just double bagged some river sand in shopping bags which makes a big difference to reduce the ringing and bouncing. My chair is not low enough to see both sides of the material easily when it is on trestles. Found using a strip of masking tape on the blind side is a great tactile aid for following along with the dolly when I couldn't feel the crease in the sheet with my hand anymore. Also notice when I start getting tired and the hammer drifts or strikes off level so getting in the habit to stop and do something else for a minute or two. Otherwise so far so good... won't be as perfect but it will be more than good enough!
Thanks again!
Just wanted to say thanks for the tip.
Scored a four drawer tool cabinet that was new in box but dropped off a forklift and crunched the rear bottom corner and buckled up the paneling in three sides. Great practise hey?
Ground a bit to drill out the spotwelds. Need much more practice with that as I ended up drilling through most. Not the end of the world and already patched up what would be the bottom/back panel of the weld with help of a copper backing strip. Slowly getting the hang of bumping out the creases and bends. Just taking my time and progressively getting through it in multiple passes. Toughest part is work holding and not making so much noise. Not having a shot bag yet I just double bagged some river sand in shopping bags which makes a big difference to reduce the ringing and bouncing. My chair is not low enough to see both sides of the material easily when it is on trestles. Found using a strip of masking tape on the blind side is a great tactile aid for following along with the dolly when I couldn't feel the crease in the sheet with my hand anymore. Also notice when I start getting tired and the hammer drifts or strikes off level so getting in the habit to stop and do something else for a minute or two. Otherwise so far so good... won't be as perfect but it will be more than good enough!
Thanks again!
BassProCamaro97
Well-known member
Just wanted to stop in again and say your stitch advice in this thread helped me put down a very nice flange on my 69 camaro door sill today. You sir are awesome.
Thanks again
Thanks again
EdT
Well-known member
Very nice!!! Can't wait for the hood.
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Looking great.
I like your use of the laser, beats measuring off the floor. Out of curiosity, I wonder how symmetrical the whole thing was to begin with. Most of the old British cars I've worked on were all over the place from the coach building factory. Makes it hard to align things that aren't the exact opposite side.
I doubt the truck factory of the time had the finesse.
Love watching your techniques Robert.
I like your use of the laser, beats measuring off the floor. Out of curiosity, I wonder how symmetrical the whole thing was to begin with. Most of the old British cars I've worked on were all over the place from the coach building factory. Makes it hard to align things that aren't the exact opposite side.
I doubt the truck factory of the time had the finesse.
Love watching your techniques Robert.
Thanks Claude! Yeah, we're making some improvements as we go. The filler panel was made wider to push the fender outward as they had some signs of rubbing the cab...
The flanges were TIG welded in place, welds dressed, and then worked to remove the remnants of the old filler panel. The old spot welds were removed using a cut off wheel in a die grinder. When the upper panel gets thin, the heat turns it blue. When you see shiny metal again, you have found the second layer, so stop grinding!
This video explains the process a bit better...
Next to clean all the rust that was hiding between the layers. A tight squeeze!
The filler panel we fabricated was positioned, and drilled for some 1/8" cleco's. Then another test fit:
The 55's passenger seat bracket:
is rolled through the bead roller
and then the brake is used to fold the outer flange. Here, all welded in place...
The front hole pattern is laid out to match the drivers bracket, and then some perpendicular lines laid out for locating the rear risers...
The flanges were TIG welded in place, welds dressed, and then worked to remove the remnants of the old filler panel. The old spot welds were removed using a cut off wheel in a die grinder. When the upper panel gets thin, the heat turns it blue. When you see shiny metal again, you have found the second layer, so stop grinding!
This video explains the process a bit better...
Next to clean all the rust that was hiding between the layers. A tight squeeze!
The filler panel we fabricated was positioned, and drilled for some 1/8" cleco's. Then another test fit:
The 55's passenger seat bracket:
is rolled through the bead roller
and then the brake is used to fold the outer flange. Here, all welded in place...
The front hole pattern is laid out to match the drivers bracket, and then some perpendicular lines laid out for locating the rear risers...
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larry4406
Well-known member
Excellent! - The new apprentice's shoes are color matched to the shirt!
stsmytherie
Well-known member
Shop uniforms are important for morale. Looking good all around!
She's been wearing the shop shirts for quite a few years now, and has helped out before on occasion where I needed manual power for the bead roller. She's getting to a point where spending money is important.. I figure a little mechanical background will help out later in life no matter what she does..
Divcod
Well-known member
Robert,
Spent last week end in the shop, first time since Oct, with my 8 year old granddaughter building a bird house. She wanted to learn how to pound nails for her birthday so she spent part of the morning learning and then nailed the bird house together. Great way to spend a day!!! Looks like you have the same experience.
Sometimes you just need to screw off in the shop all day. So while the new hire continued with media blasting, I turned my attention to this "new" hoop for the Watervliet planishing hammer that just showed up.. This square version is somewhat rare, ie: hard to find, but I had a particular location in mind..
The Baileigh power hammer has some threaded holes on the left side for their own version of a planishing hammer mount, but I just didn't have the funds laying around for their version. So lets see what we can do with Old Faithful...
Drum sander does wonders in pipe fitment, and it sure was easier to TIG with a nice tight fit...
All we need now is paint and a pedal..
.
The Baileigh power hammer has some threaded holes on the left side for their own version of a planishing hammer mount, but I just didn't have the funds laying around for their version. So lets see what we can do with Old Faithful...
Drum sander does wonders in pipe fitment, and it sure was easier to TIG with a nice tight fit...
All we need now is paint and a pedal..
.
larry4406
Well-known member
Pretty clever as usual! Easily removable if in the way or needed on the body of the car.
When will we see the power hammer in use?
When will we see the power hammer in use?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Robert, beautiful work on the mounts for the new accessory. They turned out great.
Mike.
Mike.
Spent today hosting a Pullmax Workshop for some of the guys from the VA HAMB. OJ Higgins recently took delivery of a gargantuan Trumpf universal machine (a Pullmax on Steroids) and wanted a down and dirty on how these machines could be put to use. So OJ and a few other VA guys stopped by today and for a sample to use, ClutchDumpinDan brought by a tail pan from his 52 Chevy that was in dire need of rust repair.. We found a piece of 18 gauge cold rolled steel large enough to do the trick, so Dan cut it in half just in case we needed to do this twice...
Dies made for the universal tool holder in the Lennox Nibbler
Profile check...
Test sample...
Our new panel ready to run through the dies...
Step detail
Tipping the leading edge..
Dan takes a ******* break
Videos....
Comparing new to old...
Rusty seal joggle on the old panel...
The new one...
Adding some bead details to change things up a bit...
Comparison....
Fancy tool for finishing the bead ends...
Dies made for the universal tool holder in the Lennox Nibbler
Profile check...
Test sample...
Our new panel ready to run through the dies...
Step detail
Tipping the leading edge..
Dan takes a ******* break
Videos....
Comparing new to old...
Rusty seal joggle on the old panel...
The new one...
Adding some bead details to change things up a bit...
Comparison....
Fancy tool for finishing the bead ends...
larry4406
Well-known member
Nice job Robert! I would have liked to have been a fly on the wall.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Robert, another fantastic piece of work, duplicating a stamping by hand with a few tools and a great deal of skill.
I always enjoy seeing what you are doing and I would be remiss if I didn't ask about that chunk of aluminum on the table. Obviously it's a Pullmax Fixture but is that just for this project?
I always enjoy seeing what you are doing and I would be remiss if I didn't ask about that chunk of aluminum on the table. Obviously it's a Pullmax Fixture but is that just for this project?
Bob, that's a fixture for aligning home made tooling for welding. The windows allow you to clamp to a table as shown or vertically, and also to clamp the 3/4" shanks in the channel. For what we were doing it helps in aligning the drop in blocks for the universal tool holders as well. Keen eye there sir!
Divcod
Well-known member
Robert,
Divco parts for around the driver / passenger bi-fold doors. The longest one is an unaltered NOS leading edge structure, the other one is a little shorter as I grafted it to the existing frame work of my Divco. Short piece is above the door opening. Let me know if you need any of these parts. Also received 4 sections of NOS T-Molding and may have an extra pieces when I finish the doors.
Still enjoy watching your projects and progress.
Divco parts for around the driver / passenger bi-fold doors. The longest one is an unaltered NOS leading edge structure, the other one is a little shorter as I grafted it to the existing frame work of my Divco. Short piece is above the door opening. Let me know if you need any of these parts. Also received 4 sections of NOS T-Molding and may have an extra pieces when I finish the doors.
Still enjoy watching your projects and progress.
Yarz
Well-known member
Test sample...
I'm constantly amazed at the reproductions you do. Nice work once again!
Why did you pick the pullmax to do this step profile over the bead roller? Is it easer/faster/more consistent?
The reason I ask is because I recently picked up a (cheap) bead roller and I'm trying to better understand its uses and limits.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Very nice Robert !!! Although I have become accustomed to expecting nothing else. Lol����
xtremek
Well-known member
You never cease to amaze
Thanks for the comments and questions guys!
Dave, is that basically an a-pillar/b-pillar? Or the top header piece? We do have damage above the driver door so not sure what I'll run into until it gets pulled apart. I may have to get those just in case...
A bead roller does more "relocating" of metal than anything. The initial step we put in was about 1/2" high offset, so that is quite a bit of metal to expect a bead roller to accomplish that kind of movement effectively. A reciprocating machine also relocates metal but does provide some stretch that you'll not get from a bead roller. We also prestretched the two corners as if that hadn't been done you'd get a nice buckle inside those corners from the tightness of the outer band pushing inwards. Bead rollers are very versatile tools, but they have their limits.
Dave, is that basically an a-pillar/b-pillar? Or the top header piece? We do have damage above the driver door so not sure what I'll run into until it gets pulled apart. I may have to get those just in case...
.
A bead roller does more "relocating" of metal than anything. The initial step we put in was about 1/2" high offset, so that is quite a bit of metal to expect a bead roller to accomplish that kind of movement effectively. A reciprocating machine also relocates metal but does provide some stretch that you'll not get from a bead roller. We also prestretched the two corners as if that hadn't been done you'd get a nice buckle inside those corners from the tightness of the outer band pushing inwards. Bead rollers are very versatile tools, but they have their limits.
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Divcod
Well-known member
Originally Posted by Divcod View Post
Robert,
Divco parts for around the driver / passenger bi-fold doors. The longest one is an unaltered NOS leading edge structure, the other one is a little shorter as I grafted it to the existing frame work of my Divco. Short piece is above the door opening. Let me know if you need any of these parts. Also received 4 sections of NOS T-Molding and may have an extra pieces when I finish the doors.
Dave, is that basically an a-pillar/b-pillar? Or the top header piece? We do have damage above the driver door so not sure what I'll run into until it gets pulled apart. I may have to get those just in case...
Yes, 2 longer pieces are basically an a/b pillar. Third longest piece is the remains of a C Pillar after we replaced the rusted portion at the rear of the truck. The shortest pieces is the header for above the man-doors. This is under the piece that provides the guide for the bi-fold door. If you need better pictures, let me know.
Robert,
Divco parts for around the driver / passenger bi-fold doors. The longest one is an unaltered NOS leading edge structure, the other one is a little shorter as I grafted it to the existing frame work of my Divco. Short piece is above the door opening. Let me know if you need any of these parts. Also received 4 sections of NOS T-Molding and may have an extra pieces when I finish the doors.
Dave, is that basically an a-pillar/b-pillar? Or the top header piece? We do have damage above the driver door so not sure what I'll run into until it gets pulled apart. I may have to get those just in case...
Yes, 2 longer pieces are basically an a/b pillar. Third longest piece is the remains of a C Pillar after we replaced the rusted portion at the rear of the truck. The shortest pieces is the header for above the man-doors. This is under the piece that provides the guide for the bi-fold door. If you need better pictures, let me know.
Dave, will need to do another drive by and check that area... Thanks!
Had some questions about how we did the "J" detail for the bumper seal..
I missed getting some of the pictures of the dies, so had to go back afterwards...
These are all the dies used, I had three different lower dies to progressively fold the sides in. The location is set by using a backstop on the first pass, using the die show on the right..
This is the final die shown with a sample run...
Had some questions about how we did the "J" detail for the bumper seal..
I missed getting some of the pictures of the dies, so had to go back afterwards...
These are all the dies used, I had three different lower dies to progressively fold the sides in. The location is set by using a backstop on the first pass, using the die show on the right..
This is the final die shown with a sample run...
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Strouty
Well-known member
You ever get 3/4 of the way finished and pull a woops and have to start over? I love watching the things you do, but damn it makes me feel so insignificant!
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
That Lennox is sure turning out to be a versatile machine. Almost makes me want to get one...Great work as always Robert.
Pullmax, Lennox, Baker, TruEdge, Trumph, and the list goes on. Many makers of these universal machines. Where Pullmax is the most recognized name, they typically command a higher price tag. A similar machine in Pullmax would have cost at least 4X what I paid for the Lennox. It has paid for itself many times over.
Getting down to the nitty gritty on the seat brackets, number two is all but done, need to weld in three hex nuts and touch up some media blasting. Hoping for good weather this weekend so we can spray some epoxy primer on them and get these installed...
And the last two pipe clamps came in at Napa (installed with lock nuts), so we can now throw some air to the planishing hammer and try out the new fixture..
Getting down to the nitty gritty on the seat brackets, number two is all but done, need to weld in three hex nuts and touch up some media blasting. Hoping for good weather this weekend so we can spray some epoxy primer on them and get these installed...
And the last two pipe clamps came in at Napa (installed with lock nuts), so we can now throw some air to the planishing hammer and try out the new fixture..
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Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Robert...I am not only constantly amazed by your craftsmanship and technique, but also by the fact that you take the time to show the us these things. In the old days the "guild" would have killed to prevent such secrets from being revealed.
Robert...I am not only constantly amazed by your craftsmanship and technique, but also by the fact that you take the time to show the us these things. In the old days the "guild" would have killed to prevent such secrets from being revealed.
Thanks for the kind words! I think it's a newer mindset that the advent of the interweb has opened up. Prior to that, it seems the only time such skills were shared was when someone hired on as an apprentice at the start of a very long career...
I've been to quite a few metal meets/gatherings where people get together to share ideas & methods. I don't care how much you think you may know, someone will share an idea that helps out or perhaps re-directs a process you were doing. If you were sitting there with your arms folded, you're not likely for someone to offer their input. While working on a project, someone may see what you are doing and offer ideas on their own approach. You may be able to incorporate and improve your process. You may not have the same tools at home that is being discussed where it won't apply then and there. But it gets ideas going, opens you up to another perspective. We all learn SOMETHING from one another, no matter how insignificant it may seem at the time. But we need to continue to learn and continue to improve our abilities.
I've had the misfortune, as I'm sure most have, of buying that special car/truck you've always wanted only to find afterward that someone was very adept in bondo finishing to hide a boatload of hack work. Many hobbyists today find themselves doing more and more restoration type work as most body shops tend to shy away from it. At the very least, I would hope what I post would inspire someone to try and do better than the hack work we all have seen and that quality work is within our grasp.
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stsmytherie
Well-known member
You definitely have inspired me to try. Thanks.
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
As recounted elsewhere, I have been lucky enough to find a totally rust and dent free example of my "unicorn" (with much help and input from fellow GJ members) so my emphasis this year is on paint refurbishment, interior work and driving the wheels off of it.
I have been gathering tools for a while now for my next bucket list project....a '30's Miller/Offy Indy 2-seat inspired roadster.I will need all the advice I can get when the time comes and I know who to ask. Can you recommend any books which accurately detail the processes used in designing and fabricating a body from paper to wooden buck to metal, the way they did back in the day? Thanks!Attachments
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