MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Mike, we're using the black SPI on the car, so we used the same on these. These are called speed shapes, they came from Custom Painting Pearls in ******* GA. Bought them off ebay, they go by oldsparkle55 on ebay...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-3D-SPEED-SHAPES-SHARPS-DISPLAYS-9X5sz-Kustom-Paint-Chameleon-PLASTI-DIP-Paint/112559379523?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-3D-SPEED-SHAPES-SHARPS-DISPLAYS-9X5sz-Kustom-Paint-Chameleon-PLASTI-DIP-Paint/112559379523?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Thanks for the info. What about if you need to keep both panels
I appreciate your taking the time to answer our questions
Robert,
thanks for the reply
I have a fuel tank skid plate with a doubler spotwelded onto it. Both pieces are .080 thick. There is rust between them, so l separated them to get rid of the rust. Neither piece is bad enough that they need replaced.
thanks for the reply
I have a fuel tank skid plate with a doubler spotwelded onto it. Both pieces are .080 thick. There is rust between them, so l separated them to get rid of the rust. Neither piece is bad enough that they need replaced.
If the panels are separated from the vehicle and you have one piece thicker than the other, I would tend to plug weld into the thicker panel, so the plug weld holes would be left in the thinner. If this happened to be a position issue while welding ON the vehicle, it's easier welding downward that looking upward with sparks falling on you. So the other consideration is to leave the holes in the top panel and plug weld into the lower.
Thanks Robert. I appreciate the help
Some highlights from our Metalshaping class from last week..
Our guest instructor this year was Pat Brubaker of Custom Rides in Hastings Nebraska. We focused on minimal tools this year. A largely forgotten tool that is (was) seen in many shops is the arbor press. Pat has developed a die set to use in the arbor press that makes it an invaluable tool to have in your metalshaping arsenal.
This video shows tuck shrinking, much the same as using the stump, but here using less impact for less stress added to the panel..
Pete Hagan brought some 2002 BMW front fenders to practice with, one having a noticeable dent in the front..
Here we match up one of the dies to match the crown of the rear of the fender, and try our hand at removing a dent using the arbor press.
It did a good job of removing the majority of the damage, and more importantly, without adding any more stretch. Minimal work at this point would have this ready for paint.
We also discussed various pattern techniques, and the benefits realized with each one. One of the class participants, Laser with a Z, had brought a 1961 Impala front valance to duplicate, as it had many rust issues.
Some of the rust issues were filled with clay in order to get a more accurate pattern.
Flexible shape patterns show better the amount of shape in the panel, and paper patterns were used to get an accurate read on panel material size.
The replacement panel was made in two pieces and welded together. Laser did a nice job of welding, note the consistent width in the HAZ for minimal distortion..
Comparison:
Our guest instructor this year was Pat Brubaker of Custom Rides in Hastings Nebraska. We focused on minimal tools this year. A largely forgotten tool that is (was) seen in many shops is the arbor press. Pat has developed a die set to use in the arbor press that makes it an invaluable tool to have in your metalshaping arsenal.
This video shows tuck shrinking, much the same as using the stump, but here using less impact for less stress added to the panel..
Pete Hagan brought some 2002 BMW front fenders to practice with, one having a noticeable dent in the front..
Here we match up one of the dies to match the crown of the rear of the fender, and try our hand at removing a dent using the arbor press.
It did a good job of removing the majority of the damage, and more importantly, without adding any more stretch. Minimal work at this point would have this ready for paint.
We also discussed various pattern techniques, and the benefits realized with each one. One of the class participants, Laser with a Z, had brought a 1961 Impala front valance to duplicate, as it had many rust issues.
Some of the rust issues were filled with clay in order to get a more accurate pattern.
Flexible shape patterns show better the amount of shape in the panel, and paper patterns were used to get an accurate read on panel material size.
The replacement panel was made in two pieces and welded together. Laser did a nice job of welding, note the consistent width in the HAZ for minimal distortion..
Comparison:
Jake's project for the class was a replacement for our practice fan shroud from last month.. The rear edge was unfinished, so we aimed to fix that, and also make it out of aluminum to better match the radiator.
To finish off the rear edge, we chose to add a bead to the edge and a hemmed flange to close it off, keeping the hem flat so as not to interfere with the fan.
The beads were added, flanges tipped to attach to the baffle panel, and the linear stretch dies in the Lennox used to stretch the correct outer radius.
We attempted various welding methods to attach the shroud to the baffle plates. The spot welder lacked the balls to make the welds, and TIG spot welds or weld passes seemed to add more distortion to our practice pieces than the precise circle we had rolled would tolerate. So we used some stainless hardware and nylock nuts to hold the parts together..
Here are some videos of the installed shroud..
Some of the tips and tricks shared at the class, here is a table "extension" for a band saw to permit cutting of crowned panels SAFELY..
Charlie has been to our class three years in a row, and he is a pretty sharp cookie. Like some of us and getting older, he has the unfortunate issue of arthritis in his hands, and finds difficulty in using hand snips. In much the same fashion as the Beverly shears, Charlie modified a pair of right angle Midwest shears to use a handle for easier operation..
Action video:
Material capacity stays the same, operation just becomes a bit easier, especially for those with arthritis conditions..
To finish off the rear edge, we chose to add a bead to the edge and a hemmed flange to close it off, keeping the hem flat so as not to interfere with the fan.
The beads were added, flanges tipped to attach to the baffle panel, and the linear stretch dies in the Lennox used to stretch the correct outer radius.
We attempted various welding methods to attach the shroud to the baffle plates. The spot welder lacked the balls to make the welds, and TIG spot welds or weld passes seemed to add more distortion to our practice pieces than the precise circle we had rolled would tolerate. So we used some stainless hardware and nylock nuts to hold the parts together..
Here are some videos of the installed shroud..
Some of the tips and tricks shared at the class, here is a table "extension" for a band saw to permit cutting of crowned panels SAFELY..
Charlie has been to our class three years in a row, and he is a pretty sharp cookie. Like some of us and getting older, he has the unfortunate issue of arthritis in his hands, and finds difficulty in using hand snips. In much the same fashion as the Beverly shears, Charlie modified a pair of right angle Midwest shears to use a handle for easier operation..
Action video:
Material capacity stays the same, operation just becomes a bit easier, especially for those with arthritis conditions..
larry4406
Well-known member
Robert - great post as usual! Lots of great information. The arbor press and mounted snips are great ideas.
Like the radiator shroud on the mopar!
Like the radiator shroud on the mopar!
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Robert,thanks for posting!!!! Looks like it was a great class.
gofastwclass
Well-known member
Very cool stuff. I am especially partial the 1961 Impala valance as I own one of these cars. For the most part aftermarket body parts simply do not exist.
By the way, in the first video the scamp looks like it has an intermittent spark arcing between the fuel line and the intake manifold at the blue AN fitting behind the carburetor. You may want to alert the owner of this.
Thanks as always for sharing.
By the way, in the first video the scamp looks like it has an intermittent spark arcing between the fuel line and the intake manifold at the blue AN fitting behind the carburetor. You may want to alert the owner of this.
Thanks as always for sharing.
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Hello Robert, thanks for sharing.
I'm in the same situation with my fan shroud, I was thinking about bonding the two together with 3M 2 part epoxy or countersunk rivet heads. I have used the 3m products and there plenty strong and easy to hide the seam by removing the adhesive squeeze out.
Could you share your thoughts on bonding the two together.
Thanks again!
I'm in the same situation with my fan shroud, I was thinking about bonding the two together with 3M 2 part epoxy or countersunk rivet heads. I have used the 3m products and there plenty strong and easy to hide the seam by removing the adhesive squeeze out.
Could you share your thoughts on bonding the two together.
Thanks again!
Thanks again for the post with great little vids. Does Pat offer the dies for sale or is this his personal set?
Keep up the great work, Robert, I hope we can meet some day and then I can watch you " live and in person".
Mike
Keep up the great work, Robert, I hope we can meet some day and then I can watch you " live and in person".
Mike
Mike, he sells those sets. Give him a shout at [email protected]
I have the original full size video on the laptop, in watching it full size it appears to be reflection of the oil cap. But I'll pass it on to be on the safe side..
Very cool stuff. I am especially partial the 1961 Impala valance as I own one of these cars. For the most part aftermarket body parts simply do not exist.
By the way, in the first video the scamp looks like it has an intermittent spark arcing between the fuel line and the intake manifold at the blue AN fitting behind the carburetor. You may want to alert the owner of this.
Thanks as always for sharing.
I have the original full size video on the laptop, in watching it full size it appears to be reflection of the oil cap. But I'll pass it on to be on the safe side..
shortykorte
Well-known member
Like others thanks. I saw a video where they used a arbor press to make profiles like the Lennox. The video showed another use. I have an arbor press and now have something to try.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've heard that the bonding products work well, but have not used them to give an opinion. Body panels are one thing but this was in close proximity of that revolving fan. Not having used them I didn't want to be the cause of fan projectiles taking out Jake's radiator. We also considered some solid rivets, but didn't have any in stock. I did have the stainless hardware, so that's what we used..
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Agree totally! I would never have thought of using the arbor press this way but it makes perfect sense after seeing the video.
dmcintosh
Well-known member
I am really intrigued by the arbor press shaping method. Any idea if asmall, say 1 or 2 ton model would be large enough to move, say 16 ga metal?
dmcintosh
Well-known member
Thanks for the quick response. I was really more thinking ahead than anything. I am just starting on the rebuild of a 1966 Chevelle wagon and there are a number of parts that are not readily available from the aftermarket, including some braces, etc. Not entirely sure what parts will need to be repaired/replaced but I am working on getting some basic tools in place to make what I need. Saw this idea and thought it might prove very helpful given that I do not have many metal forming tools (or experience) yet. I'm trying to be smart about my purchases to make the $$ go as far as possible, and I really don't have the space to buy many 1-job tools. Thanks again for the great thread, and sharing what you do with the rest of us so we can learn.
We got the wagon parts pulled out of the booth this past weekend where we had them stored during the metalshaping class.
Getting back to tying up some loose ends.. Mike cuts out the driver side of the console..
All ready for thinning the bend lines..
.....while Jake and I worked on tipping the edge on the second seat bolster..
Getting back to tying up some loose ends.. Mike cuts out the driver side of the console..
All ready for thinning the bend lines..
.....while Jake and I worked on tipping the edge on the second seat bolster..
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Robert, did you tip the edge using the Lennox to break the line or a tipping die ? I'm assuming you had to do a lot of stretching over he wheel well on the tipped flange.
Thanks for posting!
Thanks for posting!
Thanks!
Been in Florida the past couple weeks for the day job, got back in time for Saturday's shop day. Jake worked on the rear seat bolster, the top profile was traced from the one we made for the driver's side but this mark needs to be on the opposite side for us to tip the flange. Easy transfer is to use a punch on the line to transfer the mark's location through the panel and then trace..
....and then he used various round anvils for hammer forming the corners.
I got started on welding in the corners of the passenger console side...
This might work yet...
While Jake was tipping flanges he needed some stretch in the crowned area. Looking at the too many pieces that came out of the Erco, it's possible that Jake has too much kick. We made some new spring plates out of 1/16 stainless sheet..
Back in business...
Been in Florida the past couple weeks for the day job, got back in time for Saturday's shop day. Jake worked on the rear seat bolster, the top profile was traced from the one we made for the driver's side but this mark needs to be on the opposite side for us to tip the flange. Easy transfer is to use a punch on the line to transfer the mark's location through the panel and then trace..
....and then he used various round anvils for hammer forming the corners.
I got started on welding in the corners of the passenger console side...
This might work yet...
While Jake was tipping flanges he needed some stretch in the crowned area. Looking at the too many pieces that came out of the Erco, it's possible that Jake has too much kick. We made some new spring plates out of 1/16 stainless sheet..
Back in business...
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Fantastic work as always Robert.
I love following along on your projects, I always seem to learn a new trick.
Keep the pics and progress reports coming.
I love following along on your projects, I always seem to learn a new trick.
Keep the pics and progress reports coming.
This weekend's progress... Jake finishing up on the seat bolsters.
We don't always have the right tools to use, so on occasion we make them. This corner of the panel needed a sharper shape on the anvil
With both bolsters done and fitted to the rear seat, Jake media blasted both and hung them up in the booth where he applied some SPI Epoxy primer.
Meanwhile Mike and I worked on getting the driver's side of the console folded up..
We started by using the tipping die in the Lennox for thinning the bend lines. This both gives a sharper bend and also gives a "feel" for when the press brake's upper die is located in the proper bend location.
Here's the highly technical back stop used to set the fold distance. We have a growing collection of these starting as the dimensional requirements change..
With two sides now, a spacer was made to clamp in the middle to hold our proper width..
Seats above are all the way forward, compare front location to next picture where they have been moved back to normal location, as well as mocking up the Chevelle shifter..
Next we'll get the radius pieces added and start on the internal structures of the console.
We don't always have the right tools to use, so on occasion we make them. This corner of the panel needed a sharper shape on the anvil
With both bolsters done and fitted to the rear seat, Jake media blasted both and hung them up in the booth where he applied some SPI Epoxy primer.
Meanwhile Mike and I worked on getting the driver's side of the console folded up..
We started by using the tipping die in the Lennox for thinning the bend lines. This both gives a sharper bend and also gives a "feel" for when the press brake's upper die is located in the proper bend location.
Here's the highly technical back stop used to set the fold distance. We have a growing collection of these starting as the dimensional requirements change..
With two sides now, a spacer was made to clamp in the middle to hold our proper width..
Seats above are all the way forward, compare front location to next picture where they have been moved back to normal location, as well as mocking up the Chevelle shifter..
Next we'll get the radius pieces added and start on the internal structures of the console.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That's going to be an awesome looking center console Robert.
Thanks Mike!
Progress last night on the console, as I was welding the remaining bits in the drivers console side (sorry, no pics) Jake was using the GoKart slick in the Wheeling machine to add the correct contour to the rear panel for the console...
Matches up well.....
Then he made some practice side pieces so we could test the fitment to the rear panel after using the tank roll die in the Lennox. There's quite a bit of work in the console sides at this point, and we didn't want them to be the guinea pigs..
View of them clamped:
We can use this rear panel on the console, and this weekend we'll use the tank roll die on the console sides and get them welded together..
Progress last night on the console, as I was welding the remaining bits in the drivers console side (sorry, no pics) Jake was using the GoKart slick in the Wheeling machine to add the correct contour to the rear panel for the console...
Matches up well.....
Then he made some practice side pieces so we could test the fitment to the rear panel after using the tank roll die in the Lennox. There's quite a bit of work in the console sides at this point, and we didn't want them to be the guinea pigs..
View of them clamped:
We can use this rear panel on the console, and this weekend we'll use the tank roll die on the console sides and get them welded together..
ford33
Well-known member
It's interesting to see what you guys build. You do it so well. I enjoy reading these posts.
Thanks for the comments and well wishes guys! And a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all the GJ family!
More progress today on the console, time to weld in the back section.. We had it clamped like so:
But on second thought, it should be clamped on the upper portion...
....and to keep the bottoms from sliding out from under, some spacers were made out of scrap wood....
Tacked and welded with the TIG....
Jake cut out some corners, tipped some flanges, and used the Vise Grip tucking tool to gather up some of the excess metal. A torch heats up the tucks for an easy flattening.
Trimmed and test fit...
Inner corner finished in the same fashion...
More progress today on the console, time to weld in the back section.. We had it clamped like so:
But on second thought, it should be clamped on the upper portion...
....and to keep the bottoms from sliding out from under, some spacers were made out of scrap wood....
Tacked and welded with the TIG....
Jake cut out some corners, tipped some flanges, and used the Vise Grip tucking tool to gather up some of the excess metal. A torch heats up the tucks for an easy flattening.
Trimmed and test fit...
Inner corner finished in the same fashion...
gofastwclass
Well-known member
Absolutely fantastic work Robert - as always.
shortykorte
Well-known member
Thank you for the gift of knowledge and sharing. Merry Christmas!