MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Thanks!
Happy New Year to everybody!
Had a visit by the shop this week from cousin JB, who works at Interiors by Shannon in Alabama. He was up for the holidays. They have recently picked up a bead roller so we did some practice runs on pre-stretched and non-stretched beads, and then some beads using the Lennox Nibbler. Finished up with some shrinking on the MH-19. We ran out of time to punch louvers. Great to see him again, nice to spend time "playing" in the shop.
Progress on the console this weekend... Mike is still in California visiting family, so Jake and I have been texting pics to him of what he's missing haha..
Corner number two, we've already shown some shrinking, so no we'll show stretching the inside corner..
Placing the part on a suitable flat anvil, a barrel roll hammer is used to provide stretch the inner corner...
You get to a point where flat is no longer useful, so then we use another anvil, this one in the form of a square tube. Everything is a tool.. Works well for what we're doing here...
Fitted and welded....
Next, a pattern made of the rear hump for trimming the console.. we'll keep it snug for now for placing anchors and then trim later for carpet and sound deadening space.
Standoffs used for anchors, trimmed to fit angle of the hump... and welded in place. Crossmember made for inside the console and spot welded in.
Happy New Year to everybody!
Had a visit by the shop this week from cousin JB, who works at Interiors by Shannon in Alabama. He was up for the holidays. They have recently picked up a bead roller so we did some practice runs on pre-stretched and non-stretched beads, and then some beads using the Lennox Nibbler. Finished up with some shrinking on the MH-19. We ran out of time to punch louvers. Great to see him again, nice to spend time "playing" in the shop.
Progress on the console this weekend... Mike is still in California visiting family, so Jake and I have been texting pics to him of what he's missing haha..
Corner number two, we've already shown some shrinking, so no we'll show stretching the inside corner..
Placing the part on a suitable flat anvil, a barrel roll hammer is used to provide stretch the inner corner...
You get to a point where flat is no longer useful, so then we use another anvil, this one in the form of a square tube. Everything is a tool.. Works well for what we're doing here...
Fitted and welded....
Next, a pattern made of the rear hump for trimming the console.. we'll keep it snug for now for placing anchors and then trim later for carpet and sound deadening space.
Standoffs used for anchors, trimmed to fit angle of the hump... and welded in place. Crossmember made for inside the console and spot welded in.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Robert, just checking in.
Absolutely fantastic work as always..
Regards
Absolutely fantastic work as always..
Regards
xtremek
Well-known member
What he said^. Happy New Year and thanks for the lessons.
Thanks for the comments guys!
We don't always get to see installed pictures of some of the smaller fabrications we do, so when it does happen it's nice to share them. The tailpan we made in the post below has been fitted up to the car, looks rather spiffy!
We don't always get to see installed pictures of some of the smaller fabrications we do, so when it does happen it's nice to share them. The tailpan we made in the post below has been fitted up to the car, looks rather spiffy!
Spent today hosting a Pullmax Workshop for some of the guys from the VA HAMB. OJ Higgins recently took delivery of a gargantuan Trumpf universal machine (a Pullmax on Steroids) and wanted a down and dirty on how these machines could be put to use. So OJ and a few other VA guys stopped by today and for a sample to use, ClutchDumpinDan brought by a tail pan from his 52 Chevy that was in dire need of rust repair.. We found a piece of 18 gauge cold rolled steel large enough to do the trick, so Dan cut it in half just in case we needed to do this twice...
Dies made for the universal tool holder in the Lennox Nibbler
Profile check...
Test sample...
Our new panel ready to run through the dies...
Step detail
Tipping the leading edge..
Dan takes a ******* break
Videos....
Comparing new to old...
Rusty seal joggle on the old panel...
The new one...
Adding some bead details to change things up a bit...
Comparison....
Fancy tool for finishing the bead ends...
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Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Great work as always Robert! Hope you are surviving this latest blizzard ok.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That console is turning out sick Robert. Almost makes me want to rip the OEM one out of my Jeep and fab up a new one. Although I'm confident it probably won't turn out as yours.
Robert, how are you going to top the console? will it have a sliding top or hinged? I am learning a bunch on this console build as I always do. You have taught so many of us so much about metal work and your photos are top notch and show all the details perfectly. Thanks for taking the extra time to do all this.
Mike
Mike
More console progress today, started off using Rotacutter to put a hole in the transmission tunnel for the shifter cable. The bulkhead seal that came with the cable has some mounting holes, we'll use some AVK style rivet nuts for ease of installation/replacement.
More anchors welded to the floor, some "crossmembers" fabricated, and welded into the console.
To locate the holes in the crossmembers, some spotters are set in the anchors, console placed, and crossmember tapped from above to mark.
Next we need to close off the front of the storage cavity to give us an anchor point for the latch. So we started the fabrication but found some limitations in our acute dies for the press brake.
Not quite enough bend, so we opted for a piece of sharpened 12 ga cold rolled to give us a bit more....
Trimmed and welded in place...
Video version:
.
More anchors welded to the floor, some "crossmembers" fabricated, and welded into the console.
To locate the holes in the crossmembers, some spotters are set in the anchors, console placed, and crossmember tapped from above to mark.
Next we need to close off the front of the storage cavity to give us an anchor point for the latch. So we started the fabrication but found some limitations in our acute dies for the press brake.
Not quite enough bend, so we opted for a piece of sharpened 12 ga cold rolled to give us a bit more....
Trimmed and welded in place...
Video version:
.
Boosted1
Well-known member
That console work is awesome!
gofastwclass
Well-known member
Fantastic work as always!!! Thanks for sharing. 
Thanks Guys!
We were originally going to hinge the console lid along the passenger side, but thought it would be better accessible from either front seat if it was hinged at the rear. We're using the same hinge as we used for the widened glove box door. In our attempt to add a torsion spring to keep the lid upright in the open position, we couldn't find the size to fit our 1/8" diameter hinge pin with enough torsion to hold the lid open. (Yes, even McMaster failed us) So we decided to wrap our own. Here's a fixture we made for the Aloris tool holder on the South Bend to act as a guide for the 1/16" music wire.
We also installed the older 3 jaw chuck, but not before adding a "wire catch"
Here's a video of us wrapping the spring... As my South Bend lacks slow enough speed for such a task, we opted for manual rotation..
Here's the positioning and function of the hinge with torsion spring installed...
With our hinge now positioned, we also found we needed to move the hinge closer to the rear edge for better lid clearance while open. Back up and punt you say?
We were originally going to hinge the console lid along the passenger side, but thought it would be better accessible from either front seat if it was hinged at the rear. We're using the same hinge as we used for the widened glove box door. In our attempt to add a torsion spring to keep the lid upright in the open position, we couldn't find the size to fit our 1/8" diameter hinge pin with enough torsion to hold the lid open. (Yes, even McMaster failed us) So we decided to wrap our own. Here's a fixture we made for the Aloris tool holder on the South Bend to act as a guide for the 1/16" music wire.
We also installed the older 3 jaw chuck, but not before adding a "wire catch"
Here's a video of us wrapping the spring... As my South Bend lacks slow enough speed for such a task, we opted for manual rotation..
Here's the positioning and function of the hinge with torsion spring installed...
With our hinge now positioned, we also found we needed to move the hinge closer to the rear edge for better lid clearance while open. Back up and punt you say?
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larry4406
Well-known member
Neat work as always!
What is the purpose of the groove you added to the chuck? Hold the spring end to start the wind? Hopefully that chuck was sacrificial.
What is the purpose of the groove you added to the chuck? Hold the spring end to start the wind? Hopefully that chuck was sacrificial.
GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Nice work! Would love to see more videos of your projects.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Not much to say that has not already been said about this project!
Those vids are just short teasers . .
Your daily driver parts chaser truck should be ready for pickup soon. We just need to set up that payment plan . . Will you want snow biters and hub caps too? Or will the current tires do the job?
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WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,019
I ran into a spring sourcing issue a year ago. I don't possess all the cool tools to build my own.
I was mounting an old GM rear plate mount on the front of my pickup to cover my winch fairlead. I couldn't find a spring that worked so I ended up with a tension spring and mounted it with some rotational tension on it to hold the plate down. Hillbilly, but it works great. I also used a chunk of an old bedliner, heated and bent into position to hold the hook out of sight when not in use.
I was mounting an old GM rear plate mount on the front of my pickup to cover my winch fairlead. I couldn't find a spring that worked so I ended up with a tension spring and mounted it with some rotational tension on it to hold the plate down. Hillbilly, but it works great. I also used a chunk of an old bedliner, heated and bent into position to hold the hook out of sight when not in use.
Attachments
BassProCamaro97
Well-known member
This is my favorite thread on the interwebs. That tail pan is awesome.
A**holes Garage
Banned
Excellent craftsmanship!
One questions, what make are those long nose pliers? They look longer than the typical long nose Vise Grips.
Thanks!
One questions, what make are those long nose pliers? They look longer than the typical long nose Vise Grips.
Thanks!
The old one on the purple wheeling machine. It is 8 inches in diameter. I will need to make a new "u shaped" attach bracket for it so the width and axle dimensions can be adapted to the slick. I have a milling machine and metal lathe.
Thank you
Robert,
Where do you get your ER70S-7 ESAB® Spoolarc mig welding wire. I have a Miller 211 and the only spools of it I can find is 33 and 44 pounds which won't fit in it.
Thank you again for the time you take to answer out questions
Where do you get your ER70S-7 ESAB® Spoolarc mig welding wire. I have a Miller 211 and the only spools of it I can find is 33 and 44 pounds which won't fit in it.
Thank you again for the time you take to answer out questions
The Toro replacement part 68-8970 (of Chinese decent) gave me the wheel that matched the upper wheel, almost like it's supposed to be there.
The turf tire that came with the wheel and hub assy was swapped for a slick. The hub is a 3-1/4 wide with 3/4 shaft dia, roller bearings.
This was after about 2 minutes. I can see where this will come in real handy. Partially inflated (deflated?), it kept the panel nice and flat.
ESAB was carrying that wire, I was using larger spool in my old L-tec machine. The newer Miller 211 won't hold those larger spools and it seems esab doesn't consider the home hobbyist a large enough market to put it on the smaller spools. You'll have to rewind from a larger spool onto some smaller ones..
The Toro replacement part 68-8970 (of Chinese decent) gave me the wheel that matched the upper wheel, almost like it's supposed to be there.
The turf tire that came with the wheel and hub assy was swapped for a slick. The hub is a 3-1/4 wide with 3/4 shaft dia, roller bearings.
This was after about 2 minutes. I can see where this will come in real handy. Partially inflated (deflated?), it kept the panel nice and flat.
ESAB was carrying that wire, I was using larger spool in my old L-tec machine. The newer Miller 211 won't hold those larger spools and it seems esab doesn't consider the home hobbyist a large enough market to put it on the smaller spools. You'll have to rewind from a larger spool onto some smaller ones..
Thanks for the info Robert.
I really appreciate it.
the toro replacement part 68-8970 (of chinese decent) gave me the wheel that matched the upper wheel, almost like it's supposed to be there.
The turf tire that came with the wheel and hub assy was swapped for a slick. The hub is a 3-1/4 wide with 3/4 shaft dia, roller bearings.
this was after about 2 minutes. I can see where this will come in real handy. Partially inflated (deflated?), it kept the panel nice and flat.
esab was carrying that wire, i was using larger spool in my old l-tec machine. The newer miller 211 won't hold those larger spools and it seems esab doesn't consider the home hobbyist a large enough market to put it on the smaller spools. You'll have to rewind from a larger spool onto some smaller ones..
Robert,
Below is the holder I made to rewind the mig wire ES70-7 wire from the 33#spool on to one that fits my Miller 211. I thought this might help someone else with the same problem
Didn't get as many pictures this weekend as I'd have liked. While I worked on some final details on the console, Jake made some cardboard templates of our rear armrests. These will also serve to hide the seat belt retractors for the front buckets, as well as the rear speakers.
Here Jake transferring the pattern to some 19 gauge cold rolled, cleaning up some of the lines as well...
I was welding in the front cross piece that Jake made to the console and had some underside welds to do. Sometimes we make it easier on ourselves, especially if we can't weld upside-down all too well..
Suspended from the door track...
The hinge at the rear now moved rearward, metal added for mounting the hinge and securing the "storage recess".
Here Jake transferring the pattern to some 19 gauge cold rolled, cleaning up some of the lines as well...
I was welding in the front cross piece that Jake made to the console and had some underside welds to do. Sometimes we make it easier on ourselves, especially if we can't weld upside-down all too well..
Suspended from the door track...
The hinge at the rear now moved rearward, metal added for mounting the hinge and securing the "storage recess".
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
It's coming together well Robert! Great work by you and your crew.
E12-535iTurbo
Well-known member
It's simply unreal what you can do with metal, Robert. Thanks for sharing!
RADcustom
Well-known member
Any update?
This tread is too interesting to just let it fade away.
This tread is too interesting to just let it fade away.
OK, here's our update for the past couple weeks..
We're working on getting the seats ready to go to the upholsterer, and these 2002 Monte Carlo seat belts just aren't cutting it...
This these belts are riveted to a bracket that stands off from the seat, and we'll need to stand off our replacement as well. So the rivets are removed and the new seat belt gets bolted to the same bracket using 1/2" bolt, grade 8. The "new" seat belts look much more vintage correct.
With console in place and bezel checked to proper height, anchors are set in place for welding to the floor pan. Bolted to shifter plate for proper alignment and standoffs used to provide space to get in there and weld...
Next, our replacement for the parking brake pull handle didn't fit just right so an extension was added that will use factory holes, we do need to drill the firewall for the studs out the front end..
Jake's progress on the rear seat kick panel...
Tipping wheel on the Fasti folds over the top flange that will hold our arm rest..
Bolting bracket that will secure the kick panel to the inner quarter..
And here we're cutting out our console lid...
Thinning bend lines for a more crisp bend...
A piece of round rod in our magnetic brake gives us radius-ed corners...
A few passes in the Tommasini Wheeling Machine gives a bit of crown for better support
Corner details TIG welded in...
Corner detail test fit...
There we go, all caught up!
We're working on getting the seats ready to go to the upholsterer, and these 2002 Monte Carlo seat belts just aren't cutting it...
This these belts are riveted to a bracket that stands off from the seat, and we'll need to stand off our replacement as well. So the rivets are removed and the new seat belt gets bolted to the same bracket using 1/2" bolt, grade 8. The "new" seat belts look much more vintage correct.
With console in place and bezel checked to proper height, anchors are set in place for welding to the floor pan. Bolted to shifter plate for proper alignment and standoffs used to provide space to get in there and weld...
Next, our replacement for the parking brake pull handle didn't fit just right so an extension was added that will use factory holes, we do need to drill the firewall for the studs out the front end..
Jake's progress on the rear seat kick panel...
Tipping wheel on the Fasti folds over the top flange that will hold our arm rest..
Bolting bracket that will secure the kick panel to the inner quarter..
And here we're cutting out our console lid...
Thinning bend lines for a more crisp bend...
A piece of round rod in our magnetic brake gives us radius-ed corners...
A few passes in the Tommasini Wheeling Machine gives a bit of crown for better support
Corner details TIG welded in...
Corner detail test fit...
There we go, all caught up!
xtremek
Well-known member
So cool and informative. Thanks for the updates.
Duck
Well-known member
Robert, your work is nothing short of amazing.
Anyone who can make metal conform to their will is a master of the art.
But what impresses me most is the "Kramer" picture on your wall, a few posts up.
Duck
Anyone who can make metal conform to their will is a master of the art.
But what impresses me most is the "Kramer" picture on your wall, a few posts up.
Duck