MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Hey Robert, have you ever rounded the bed sides of a truck box at the rear from the rolled edge to the stake pocket? I'm thinking of doing it to my 56 chevy truck and thought of you. Thanks for letting me interrupt the thread.
Mike
Mike
RADcustom
Well-known member
Made a new tool Tuesday night, this is inspired by the bench mount shear that you saw at our last metal shaping class at the shop, made by Charlie Cerutti. This mimics the Beverly Shear on a much smaller scale, and for those who have arthritis issues and find difficulty in the squeezing process of using hand snips, this could prove invaluable.
This was made using two (right and left hand cut) pair of 90* Midwest shears. First step is to remove handle covers, a utility knife makes short work of it.. Then the handle toward the jaws is trimmed off, as shown in the picture. A one inch diameter tube is used as the pull handle, welded onto the remaining handle of the shears. 5/8 round stick is used for the cross piece and upright supports, and an angle provides the base for clamping (for portability) or screwing to the front edge of your workbench.
Here shown fully assembled:
.....and here in operation...
The intent here is not to increase capacity by adding more leverage, I would still recommend adhering to manufacturer's recommendations. This is merely another tool that may make the job easier..
This was made using two (right and left hand cut) pair of 90* Midwest shears. First step is to remove handle covers, a utility knife makes short work of it.. Then the handle toward the jaws is trimmed off, as shown in the picture. A one inch diameter tube is used as the pull handle, welded onto the remaining handle of the shears. 5/8 round stick is used for the cross piece and upright supports, and an angle provides the base for clamping (for portability) or screwing to the front edge of your workbench.
Here shown fully assembled:
.....and here in operation...
The intent here is not to increase capacity by adding more leverage, I would still recommend adhering to manufacturer's recommendations. This is merely another tool that may make the job easier..
Last edited:
rmalkow2
Well-known member
That is pure genius. Thanks for sharing the design and the video of it in use.
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Hey, that is slick, I'm going build one.
shortykorte
Well-known member
What they said and great tunes.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
914forme
Well-known member
Robert, I like the idea, as a guy that has RA (Rheumatoid Arthritis) my left hand is weaker than the right. I do a lot of work in 16ga. So I am thinking about making one for my 16ga handwork. This idea rocks.
Thanks for all the comments!
We were blocking out the wagon's roof today, and had a few low spots to bump upwards. To locate the lows on the inside, I thought to use one of our rare earth magnets in the center of the low, and use the body hammer on the bottom side of the roof to pinpoint the magnetic pull. These are 65 lb pull magnets that we use for our paper patterns. By a stroke of luck (blind squirrel finds acorn) we noticed in scuffing the inside of the roof that the magnet location readily appeared, for a more accurate locating method.
Video:
.
We were blocking out the wagon's roof today, and had a few low spots to bump upwards. To locate the lows on the inside, I thought to use one of our rare earth magnets in the center of the low, and use the body hammer on the bottom side of the roof to pinpoint the magnetic pull. These are 65 lb pull magnets that we use for our paper patterns. By a stroke of luck (blind squirrel finds acorn) we noticed in scuffing the inside of the roof that the magnet location readily appeared, for a more accurate locating method.
Video:
.
gofastwclass
Well-known member
Nice tip Robert, thanks. 
Had a couple questions on what the heck I'm showing in the video.. Haha...
We were blocking out the primer on the roof and came across a few low spots. These were low enough to be seen in the paint if left alone, and yet mixing and sanding any filler "repair" would have taken longer than some simple bumping of the low area.
Since I don't have a Bullseye Pick, we thought to use some gentle hammering with a crowned body hammer beneath into a small shot bag on the top (outside) of the roof. We have some 65 lb pull rare earth magnets that we typically use for our paper patterns, and this showed to have enough strength to pull through the roof skin. So we placed the magnet in the center of the low area, and in order to locate on the underside, would skim across the roof from beneath with the hammer face to see where the pull was strongest. The location was then marked underneath with a sharpie, magnet removed and replaced with the shot bag, and the area was tapped into the shot bag until blocking showed the area where it should be.
On one of these "marking with a sharpie" efforts, there was a slight bit of dust on the bottom side of the roof, so I gave it a wipe with my hand to displace the dust and instantly saw the outer circle of the magnet. This was much more accurate than using the magnetic pull test, so we changed to this, and the metal bumping effort worked well. We surmise that this "dust" that clings to the magnetic field is likely sanding residue from the primer, or sanding residue from dressing welds inside the car, or both. In any case, it worked well to help transpose the low spot locations to the bottom side for more accurate hammering.
We were blocking out the primer on the roof and came across a few low spots. These were low enough to be seen in the paint if left alone, and yet mixing and sanding any filler "repair" would have taken longer than some simple bumping of the low area.
Since I don't have a Bullseye Pick, we thought to use some gentle hammering with a crowned body hammer beneath into a small shot bag on the top (outside) of the roof. We have some 65 lb pull rare earth magnets that we typically use for our paper patterns, and this showed to have enough strength to pull through the roof skin. So we placed the magnet in the center of the low area, and in order to locate on the underside, would skim across the roof from beneath with the hammer face to see where the pull was strongest. The location was then marked underneath with a sharpie, magnet removed and replaced with the shot bag, and the area was tapped into the shot bag until blocking showed the area where it should be.
On one of these "marking with a sharpie" efforts, there was a slight bit of dust on the bottom side of the roof, so I gave it a wipe with my hand to displace the dust and instantly saw the outer circle of the magnet. This was much more accurate than using the magnetic pull test, so we changed to this, and the metal bumping effort worked well. We surmise that this "dust" that clings to the magnetic field is likely sanding residue from the primer, or sanding residue from dressing welds inside the car, or both. In any case, it worked well to help transpose the low spot locations to the bottom side for more accurate hammering.
xtremek
Well-known member
That's a really neat trick. I'll have to try and remember that.
alpinewhite
Well-known member
OP, as much as I like your YouTube videos, I have to ask that you take them horizontally so that the entire laptop screen is used for your videos. Here's why:
Thanks for the pointers!
A continuing follow up to this drip rail fabrication saga, what has shown to be my nemesis in making an accurate replacement part. What I have experienced was that forming a drip rail with the bead roller tends to distort during the process of rolling through the machine where the part doesn't remain straight lengthwise. Just to clarify where this is situated, this is welded along the outside of the A-pillar on the full size Jeep Cherokee, with the tail comprising part of the windshield opening.
After looking at some of Steve Hamilton's Pullmax dies this past week at Redneck Roundup, I think eliminating the deformity can be best addressed by making dies for the Lennox (Pullmax). Here's what we started with, a section of 18 gauge (to match OEM) and folded the lip that will form the outside face of the drip rail..
Next, a die is used to add the joggle seen at the bottom, and a clamped-on guide prevents the flange from wanting to move skyward.
Next operation is to add the slight bit of radius to the front face of the drip rail. Here's our die configuration for this step..
Shown here with the original cross-section piece...
....to be continued.
A continuing follow up to this drip rail fabrication saga, what has shown to be my nemesis in making an accurate replacement part. What I have experienced was that forming a drip rail with the bead roller tends to distort during the process of rolling through the machine where the part doesn't remain straight lengthwise. Just to clarify where this is situated, this is welded along the outside of the A-pillar on the full size Jeep Cherokee, with the tail comprising part of the windshield opening.
After looking at some of Steve Hamilton's Pullmax dies this past week at Redneck Roundup, I think eliminating the deformity can be best addressed by making dies for the Lennox (Pullmax). Here's what we started with, a section of 18 gauge (to match OEM) and folded the lip that will form the outside face of the drip rail..
Next, a die is used to add the joggle seen at the bottom, and a clamped-on guide prevents the flange from wanting to move skyward.
Next operation is to add the slight bit of radius to the front face of the drip rail. Here's our die configuration for this step..
Shown here with the original cross-section piece...
....to be continued.
Our first task tonight was to modify die set #2 from last night so it would also tighten up the reverse joggle.
Next, Die set #3 for adding the remaining folds. A partial bend is done in the magnetic brake, and then the die set forms them more accurately.
Before:
After....
Comparison:
I like this method much better, looks to be more easily repeatable with better consistency.
Next, Die set #3 for adding the remaining folds. A partial bend is done in the magnetic brake, and then the die set forms them more accurately.
Before:
After....
Comparison:
I like this method much better, looks to be more easily repeatable with better consistency.
gofastwclass
Well-known member
Very nice work and excellent results!
Today we started fabricating the new hood for the Biederman truck. During restoration John had bought a replacement cab with less rust issues that was a couple years newer, and unfortunately slightly wider as well. Since the original hood did not sit down where the bead details aligned, we're going to fabricate a new one that will fit correctly.
Doesn't look like these are going to fit either. Me and dominoes..
Hood is removed and a paper pattern taken for starting point of the new one. Slight bit more material will be added for good measure..
pattern laid out on 16 gauge cold rolled steel.
A straight edge finds the start of the radius on either side, marked with tape, and measure to find the center of the radius. Then the radius center and widths get marked onto the new panel.
the panel was wheeled to add a slight bit of crown prior to switching to the go kart slick for adding the corner radius.
Both sides formed, ready for trimming..
Video version:
.
Doesn't look like these are going to fit either. Me and dominoes..
Hood is removed and a paper pattern taken for starting point of the new one. Slight bit more material will be added for good measure..
pattern laid out on 16 gauge cold rolled steel.
A straight edge finds the start of the radius on either side, marked with tape, and measure to find the center of the radius. Then the radius center and widths get marked onto the new panel.
the panel was wheeled to add a slight bit of crown prior to switching to the go kart slick for adding the corner radius.
Both sides formed, ready for trimming..
Video version:
.
Boosted1
Well-known member
Nice work.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Love that truck!
Fantastic work as typical for you!
One of these days will get around to installing that scooter
Fender you made for me.
Fantastic work as typical for you!
One of these days will get around to installing that scooter
Fender you made for me.
More progress on Biederman hood, the butterfly hinge parts were removed from the old hood, and the piano hinge that attaches the hood sides was removed.
Piano hinge is actually part of original hood, hemmed at the lower edge. Sanding through the hemmed edge releases the hinge..
....and any spot welds were removed by grinding through the hood side to save the hinge..
This tool was designed and given to me by Clint Button (Carolina Sculpture Studio) at the recent metalshaping workshop I attended in Rock Hill. Worked well to mark the rear edge...
Clamping and plug welding the butterfly hinges to the hood.
Hood trimmed and gapped.....
....and our next task will be to TIG weld the piano hinges to the trimmed lower edge of the hood, these hinges attach the hood side panels..
Piano hinge is actually part of original hood, hemmed at the lower edge. Sanding through the hemmed edge releases the hinge..
....and any spot welds were removed by grinding through the hood side to save the hinge..
This tool was designed and given to me by Clint Button (Carolina Sculpture Studio) at the recent metalshaping workshop I attended in Rock Hill. Worked well to mark the rear edge...
Clamping and plug welding the butterfly hinges to the hood.
Hood trimmed and gapped.....
....and our next task will be to TIG weld the piano hinges to the trimmed lower edge of the hood, these hinges attach the hood side panels..
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larry4406
Well-known member
Very nice!
Thanks Larry!
Progress through today, TIG welding up the hinges onto the new hoods..
Some SPI epoxy is mixed and brushed on, allowing it to seep between the welded parts and seal things up..
As the dominoes continued falling, the hood sides did not fit either. It was our initial plan to cut off the hinge from the top, wire edge from the bottom, and add a new center section, all parts cut to fit properly and welded back together. When we stripped paint off the lower wire edged part, we saw a bit too much pitting, rust, etc. that we opted to change to a full new lower section under the hinge. Nothing to wire edging 16 gauge, right?
So we whipped up a set of dies to add the joggle needed for the external wiring, using 3/16 solid rod for the wiring..
Practice sample:
With that complete, we tipped the lower edge to run through the joggle die..
The wiring and inside of the joggle were both degreased, scuffed, and SPI epoxy added prior to folding the remainder..
Vise grips modified so they wouldn't slip off the wiring..
Wiring locked in place with some hammer action...
Hood side is tacked to the hinge, mocked to the hood, and trimmed for gaps
It's not done, but that's all for today, we're packing it up for the car show in Leonardtown tomorrow.
.
Progress through today, TIG welding up the hinges onto the new hoods..
Some SPI epoxy is mixed and brushed on, allowing it to seep between the welded parts and seal things up..
As the dominoes continued falling, the hood sides did not fit either. It was our initial plan to cut off the hinge from the top, wire edge from the bottom, and add a new center section, all parts cut to fit properly and welded back together. When we stripped paint off the lower wire edged part, we saw a bit too much pitting, rust, etc. that we opted to change to a full new lower section under the hinge. Nothing to wire edging 16 gauge, right?
So we whipped up a set of dies to add the joggle needed for the external wiring, using 3/16 solid rod for the wiring..
Practice sample:
With that complete, we tipped the lower edge to run through the joggle die..
The wiring and inside of the joggle were both degreased, scuffed, and SPI epoxy added prior to folding the remainder..
Vise grips modified so they wouldn't slip off the wiring..
Wiring locked in place with some hammer action...
Hood side is tacked to the hinge, mocked to the hood, and trimmed for gaps
It's not done, but that's all for today, we're packing it up for the car show in Leonardtown tomorrow.
.
larry4406
Well-known member
Your craftsmanship, tutorials, and photography skills are truly appreciated. You make it look so simple.BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
What a lucky neighbor you have! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comments guys!
Tonight we did the wired edge on the Biederman truck's drivers hood side, so we did a couple videos of the process. We did a practice sample to make sure our adjustment on the folded flange length gave us a good wrap with a slight gap for paint..
This shows the basic process of closing the wrap, wasn't as pretty as it should have been, but hey, this is practice.
For the hood side, we used the tipping wheel in the Fasti swaging machine (bead roller) to add the flange. After running through the Lennox for adding the joggle, the panel was scrubbed with a warm dish soap and water mix using scotchbrite, then scuffed with 220 paper, then SPI epoxy added in the channel. After our 3/16 wire was laid in place, any remaining bare spots on the wire were also brushed with epoxy. The entire length was then closed as per the practice sample. We'll let that set a day or so and get the recycled hinge welded to the top.
Tonight we did the wired edge on the Biederman truck's drivers hood side, so we did a couple videos of the process. We did a practice sample to make sure our adjustment on the folded flange length gave us a good wrap with a slight gap for paint..
This shows the basic process of closing the wrap, wasn't as pretty as it should have been, but hey, this is practice.
For the hood side, we used the tipping wheel in the Fasti swaging machine (bead roller) to add the flange. After running through the Lennox for adding the joggle, the panel was scrubbed with a warm dish soap and water mix using scotchbrite, then scuffed with 220 paper, then SPI epoxy added in the channel. After our 3/16 wire was laid in place, any remaining bare spots on the wire were also brushed with epoxy. The entire length was then closed as per the practice sample. We'll let that set a day or so and get the recycled hinge welded to the top.
Made a new tool Tuesday night, this is inspired by the bench mount shear that you saw at our last metal shaping class at the shop, made by Charlie Cerutti. This mimics the Beverly Shear on a much smaller scale, and for those who have arthritis issues and find difficulty in the squeezing process of using hand snips, this could prove invaluable.
This was made using two (right and left hand cut) pair of 90* Midwest shears. First step is to remove handle covers, a utility knife makes short work of it.. Then the handle toward the jaws is trimmed off, as shown in the picture. A one inch diameter tube is used as the pull handle, welded onto the remaining handle of the shears. 5/8 round stick is used for the cross piece and upright supports, and an angle provides the base for clamping (for portability) or screwing to the front edge of your workbench.
Here shown fully assembled:
.....and here in operation...
The intent here is not to increase capacity by adding more leverage, I would still recommend adhering to manufacturer's recommendations. This is merely another tool that may make the job easier..
Used the set I made based on your design for the first time today. Worked great. Thanks again for the tip.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I am always totally in awe as to your work.
RivennHewn
Well-known member
I am always totally in awe as to your work.
X2!!
Finishing up on the Biederman hood fabrications today.. That's what I told myself anyhow...
Getting the OEM hood hinge welded to the new hood side..
Factory version had spot welded angles on the inside to bolt side emblems to, we'll see if we can improve by eliminating a rust trap...
This should do..... Vise mounted jigsaw with optional pony clamp cruise control Don't try this at home..
Beltline trim added.....Hey! it lines up with the cab!
Hood sides added.. and Robert is done with the hood..
Video Version:
.
Getting the OEM hood hinge welded to the new hood side..
Factory version had spot welded angles on the inside to bolt side emblems to, we'll see if we can improve by eliminating a rust trap...
This should do..... Vise mounted jigsaw with optional pony clamp cruise control Don't try this at home..
Beltline trim added.....Hey! it lines up with the cab!
Hood sides added.. and Robert is done with the hood..
Video Version:
.
Iron-Iceberg
Well-known member
Very nice work again Robert and thanks for taking the extra time to post.
xtremek
Well-known member
That's freaking slick!!!!!
Thanks for all the kind words fellas, the 16 gauge was definitely a challenge, good to see my portion complete.
If anyone local to Lexington KY would like to see it in person, this truck will be at the ATHS 2018 Convention in Lexington Ky, May 31 to June 2nd. I'm told it will be inside the building..
If anyone local to Lexington KY would like to see it in person, this truck will be at the ATHS 2018 Convention in Lexington Ky, May 31 to June 2nd. I'm told it will be inside the building..
shortykorte
Well-known member
Great job Robert. Clever mounting solution. KIS. Surprised they didn’t thing of that.
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