MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
xtremek
Well-known member
Quick question for you. I'm in the process remaking the bottom 1/3 of the core support for an '03 f-150. My question is, should I make all of the holes before, or after, the bending and forming of the sheetmetal?
jbmatth
Well-known member
Truck looks great Robert.
JB
JB
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Truck looks killer, can't wait to see it done.
Great work!
Great work!
nonhog
Well-known member
Looking good, any shots of the Ford next to it? 57?
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Sorry if I missed it, but is there plans for a bed? Or going to leave it Cab & Chassis?
Either way, it's awesome!
Either way, it's awesome!
gofastwclass
Well-known member
I think I know a guy that can make him a good dump body if he has a pile of rust and maybe a picture or two to work from. His name is Robert and is a metalworking bad man. You may know him too...
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I think I know a guy that can make him a good dump body if he has a pile of rust and maybe a picture or two to work from. His name is Robert and is a metalworking bad man. You may know him too...
Thanks for the vote of confidence but my shop is not set up for working metal that thick. We do have a couple local shops that could take care and of it though.
how about a old car hauler instead? BUG
He already has a 1951 F7 with a roll back body. That is a nice looking body though.
8man
Well-known member
First, your work has inspired me to start learning at 64. I am re-building a 48 5 window Chevy truck. I'm following your steps, as best I can, but my welds are not great, which requires a bunch of grinding using the cutting disc to smooth out my weld. I am working on the two settings on my MIG to reduce the amount of weld I have to work down, but was wondering, what is the best cutting disc.
I have a ton of dust from the cheap cutting discs I have, and thought if there is a better one that would reduce clean up time that would be great.
Thanks for the inspiration.
I have a ton of dust from the cheap cutting discs I have, and thought if there is a better one that would reduce clean up time that would be great.
Thanks for the inspiration.
I stopped using the cheap discs the same month I started using them. I've found that the discs rated for stainless steel put much less of that brown cloud in the air, so less mess. They cost a bit more, but also last much longer. Who wants to change discs out every couple of minutes while choking on a brown cloud? But I also have to say that TIG welding would also save even more cleanup for you.
Examples of cutoff wheels that I use, note stainless rating...
Examples of cutoff wheels that I use, note stainless rating...
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gofastwclass
Well-known member
Well bummer, you never know if you don't ask. I was also curious to see your approach to a project like that one.
Thanks for all the project updates. I always learn something form looking at your methods.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Truck turned out amazing Robert, like everything else you do.
Thanks for sharing your work with us.
Thanks for sharing your work with us.
Thanks for checking out the progress guys!
So I was asked to make new legs for one of those vintage kitchen stools, has some rust issues to contend with....
The lower joggle was easy enough, but had to modify some dies for the press brake for the upper roll detail.
The front portion of the lower die has a crown so it will push in on the leg for clearance to the seat corner. The upper die also has a similar crown to add same curve to the roll for easier insertion to the seat corner. It might just work.
Test fit:
.
So I was asked to make new legs for one of those vintage kitchen stools, has some rust issues to contend with....
The lower joggle was easy enough, but had to modify some dies for the press brake for the upper roll detail.
The front portion of the lower die has a crown so it will push in on the leg for clearance to the seat corner. The upper die also has a similar crown to add same curve to the roll for easier insertion to the seat corner. It might just work.
Test fit:
.
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Yarz
Well-known member
Once again, I am amazed at your ability - not just to make the part - but to make the tool you need to make the part! Nice work!
Made a new tool Tuesday night, this is inspired by the bench mount shear that you saw at our last metal shaping class at the shop, made by Charlie Cerutti. This mimics the Beverly Shear on a much smaller scale, and for those who have arthritis issues and find difficulty in the squeezing process of using hand snips, this could prove invaluable.
This was made using two (right and left hand cut) pair of 90* Midwest shears. First step is to remove handle covers, a utility knife makes short work of it.. Then the handle toward the jaws is trimmed off, as shown in the picture. A one inch diameter tube is used as the pull handle, welded onto the remaining handle of the shears. 5/8 round stick is used for the cross piece and upright supports, and an angle provides the base for clamping (for portability) or screwing to the front edge of your workbench.
Here shown fully assembled:
.....and here in operation...
The intent here is not to increase capacity by adding more leverage, I would still recommend adhering to manufacturer's recommendations. This is merely another tool that may make the job easier..
Used the set I made based on your design again today. They work great. I highly recommend that anyone doing sheet metal fabrication make a set.
This is a fantastic home made tool.
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RADcustom
Well-known member
Any update on the 55?
larry4406
Well-known member
RADcustom
Well-known member
That truck is looking great!
Is the engine swap something you do also or, will that be handled by someone else?
Is the engine swap something you do also or, will that be handled by someone else?
Well, we have the new engine dropped in place.
....and she decided on fuel injection over the 770 CFM Holley (still new in the box). Of course this meant and O2 sensor bung on an already finished H-pipe. The bung that came with the FI Tech kit matched well to the outside radius of the exhaust pipe, but was rectangular in shape, and included a gasket for a "clamp installation"... As we aren't having any of that nonsense, the bung found it's way into the lathe, where a round outer perimeter will serve better for our TIG welded installation..
And after some touch up at the powder coaters....
Next, our arm rest enclosures for the rear seat needed a base for the padded arm rests. So Jake used the Go Kart slick to add some radius to 14 gauge cold rolled steel in order to match the enclosure...
.....and trimmed to fit....
These will be held in place with Mopar style door panel retainers, so we can still have ready access for any future maintenance on window mechanisms.
....and she decided on fuel injection over the 770 CFM Holley (still new in the box). Of course this meant and O2 sensor bung on an already finished H-pipe. The bung that came with the FI Tech kit matched well to the outside radius of the exhaust pipe, but was rectangular in shape, and included a gasket for a "clamp installation"... As we aren't having any of that nonsense, the bung found it's way into the lathe, where a round outer perimeter will serve better for our TIG welded installation..
And after some touch up at the powder coaters....
Next, our arm rest enclosures for the rear seat needed a base for the padded arm rests. So Jake used the Go Kart slick to add some radius to 14 gauge cold rolled steel in order to match the enclosure...
.....and trimmed to fit....
These will be held in place with Mopar style door panel retainers, so we can still have ready access for any future maintenance on window mechanisms.
xtremek
Well-known member
I'm guessing there's a really good reason for those clips, care to share?
much like a door panel, we need something to hold the arm rest pad down to the enclosure, but still need it easily removed if something stops working (power window motor, speaker, ??) As the top will be padded and upholstered, these seemed like a good option without having exposed fasteners.
xtremek
Well-known member
I meant those specific clips. Do you have a part number? How big is the hole you makefor them to go into. I have to tell you this is one of my fav informational threads. Your skills are incredible.
Plastic "push pins" are only supposed to be a single use item, hence them losing their holding effectiveness after removal of a door panel; most are trash after first removal. The ones of steel wire IMO are too prone to damage (one side folds flat) if any mis-alignment occurs.
Do a search for Chrysler 4114785, should be for a 5/16 hole size. I feel these offer best solution to the deficiencies of the above clips.. You may even find them to be a size that will directly replace your flattened wire clips.
.
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xtremek
Well-known member
You are the man. I knew there was a specific reason you chose those clips. Thanks for your help.
I knew there was a specific reason you chose those clips. Thanks for your help.Hi Robert,
I've just joined GJ a few days ago and read this post from start to the current page. Obviously it took commitment (nearly committed LOL) to complete the read, which could not be done unless I was a captive audience! Thoroughly enjoyed it. Your dedication to this project is second to none and your work ethic deserving of a Kings ransom. Thankyou for sharing the journey with us. I do have a couple of questions relating to your work history that I'm curios about. Obviously you need not answer if you are so inclined. Was your dad a tradesman? Did you do an apprenticeship and in which trade or trades? How many apprentices have you nurtured over your career, apart from the hundreds of disciples (people wanting to follow in your footsteps) on this and other forums? Thankyou very much for your generousity in sharing and carefull guidance helping others on the site.
Kind regards Ron
I've just joined GJ a few days ago and read this post from start to the current page. Obviously it took commitment (nearly committed LOL) to complete the read, which could not be done unless I was a captive audience! Thoroughly enjoyed it. Your dedication to this project is second to none and your work ethic deserving of a Kings ransom. Thankyou for sharing the journey with us. I do have a couple of questions relating to your work history that I'm curios about. Obviously you need not answer if you are so inclined. Was your dad a tradesman? Did you do an apprenticeship and in which trade or trades? How many apprentices have you nurtured over your career, apart from the hundreds of disciples (people wanting to follow in your footsteps) on this and other forums? Thankyou very much for your generousity in sharing and carefull guidance helping others on the site.
Kind regards Ron
Ron, thanks for following along the thread!
My father grew up a farm boy primarily in the Osakis area of central Minnesota. He learned vehicle maintenance in the army, afterward spent quite a bit of time in Carpentry work, but really tackled most any challenge that came his way. He was an honest, hard working man. I guess I picked up a little of everything from him, but after completion of building our house I tend to stay away from lumber any more... can't get that stuff to weld at all.
I did not apprentice in the restoration work that I do, it started as self taught, but also added to my skillset via training videos, metalshaping workshops and classes over the years, etc. I have had four apprentices thus far, My nephew Chris, then Kyle, Mike, and Jake.
My father grew up a farm boy primarily in the Osakis area of central Minnesota. He learned vehicle maintenance in the army, afterward spent quite a bit of time in Carpentry work, but really tackled most any challenge that came his way. He was an honest, hard working man. I guess I picked up a little of everything from him, but after completion of building our house I tend to stay away from lumber any more... can't get that stuff to weld at all.
I did not apprentice in the restoration work that I do, it started as self taught, but also added to my skillset via training videos, metalshaping workshops and classes over the years, etc. I have had four apprentices thus far, My nephew Chris, then Kyle, Mike, and Jake.
Damon L.
Well-known member
I tend to stay away from lumber any more... can't get that stuff to weld at all.
You're just using the wrong equipment:
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/workrite-harry-potter-and-the-instant-glue-joint/
Seriously though. Thank you for this thread and the passing of all of the knowledge contained therein. I know I have learned a ton thus far.
Hi Robert,
Farmers are among the most intelligent, practical people I've met. It seems as though your dad was McGyver senior. It is impressive that you are self taught. WOW! I guess we are all self taught with the help of some good teachers. You must have a lot of natural aptitude towards this art. Building a house just add another level of skill. I'm keen to learn more from your future posts.
Kind regards Ron
Farmers are among the most intelligent, practical people I've met. It seems as though your dad was McGyver senior. It is impressive that you are self taught. WOW! I guess we are all self taught with the help of some good teachers. You must have a lot of natural aptitude towards this art. Building a house just add another level of skill. I'm keen to learn more from your future posts.
Kind regards Ron