MP&C Shop Projects

[MP&C]

Lowered price and shipping offered!!


Year end sale, last chance for a tax deduction for the year.

Diacro 16-24 MANUAL press brake, 8 ton, SN J-1500. Comes with the home-made stand you see it on, and the dies that are installed. This one has the fully functioning back gauge, a must have for repeat bends. None of the junk laying under or next to it is part of the dealio. Modestly priced at 1900, less than half of what similar ones are on eBay for. Stand has a full shelf for storage of dies. These brakes are 24” wide and rated at 16 gauge capacity. Ideal for a small shop or home garage where space is a premium.

I would prefer the buyer come and kick the tires, and we can load onto your truck/trailer. Located in Leonardtown Maryland. We can help prep for shipping if needed, buyer pays all shipping costs. I also have a second one if someone would like a package deal..

Back gauge in operation:

Second machine….



Year end sale, last chance for a tax deduction for the year.


Diacro 16-24 MANUAL press brake, 8 ton, SN J-1353. Comes with the home-made stand you see it on, and the dies that are installed. These are two sets of radius dies. Yes they are different heights, we just installed both to better display what goes with the machine. This brake is missing some parts of the back gauge. None of the junk laying under or next to it is part of the dealio. Modestly priced at 1600, less than half of what similar ones are on eBay for. Stand has a full shelf for storage of dies. These brakes are 24” wide and rated at 16 gauge capacity. Ideal for a small shop or home garage where space is a premium.


I would prefer the buyer come and kick the tires, and we can load onto your truck/trailer. Located in Leonardtown Maryland. We can help prep for shipping if needed, buyer pays all shipping costs. I do have two available if someone would like a package deal.

 

[bradpac]

hmm, I wonder what it would cost to ship one of those to Texas.... You don't see much equipment like that down here.

 

[MP&C]

Based on some other quotes I got, should be in the neighborhood of 300-400 depending on carrier used.

 

[ct71rr]

Thanks for all the comments guys!





Far be it for me to leave you unproductive so try out these threads as well...


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53534

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86935

Enjoy!!

Thank you for the links! They’re next on my list to check out.

 

[MP&C]

Glad to help!!


Well we are about to get started on some automotive electrical work when the wagon returns from Upholstery, and in an attempt to limit/eliminate any need for **** splices, I was looking around for various automotive "W" crimp terminals that were available. I found a gem of a store, www.repairconnector.com that carries much of the old style crimp on terminals, as well as some of the newer stuff. We do have some new light fixtures going in, and to help in eliminating excessive connections (ie: **** splices) I found they carry the replacement terminals for lamp base sockets.. (and terminals for fuse blocks, and.....)


Some of the terminals we just picked up from Repair Connector

Typical replacement light housing has pigtails that will require some type of splice...

New lamp base terminals from Repair Connector

These terminals will help us get rid of some splices..

If you have a need to repair/replace any of your automotive electrical wiring, give them a look, they may have something you can use..

 

[xtremek]

OOOOooooooo. That's really good info. Just book marked it.

 

[Monza Harry]

OOOOooooooo. That's really good info. Just book marked it.

Yes, & Me Too!
Thanx MP&C
Harry

 

[Bob Heine]

Yes, & Me Too!
Thanx MP&C
Harry

I suspect there are 40 of us who have bookmarked that one. Thanks Robert. I learn so much from you I feel guilty for not paying tuition.

 

[xtremek]

^2. How much is the tuition?

 

[MP&C]

Thanks for the comments guys!! Bob, I'm just happy you consider it tuition worthy. Let's call it even at that!!

 

[MP&C]

Wagon update, we stopped by Norris Upholstery on Saturday to check on the progress and go over some door panel design ideas. Getting closer!

Back in the shop, Mike and I got the assembly line action going on the hidden bumper brackets. These weld to the back side of the bumpers for hidden fastening and the slot allows for slight adjustment side to side. This idea was shared with me by Laszlo Nobi.

 

[zmotorsports]

The wagon is looking amazing Robert. All of your hard work sure shows through on the gaps and finish. The devil is in the details.

 

[shortykorte]

We’d all like to see the finished car but will miss the journey to the finished product.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[MP&C]

Thanks guys! Mike that's my **** retentive nature showing..

Just to show what we have in store when the wagon leaves, here’s our next project. What started as a 99% rust free/dent free vehicle took a turn for the worse when shear force winds from a nearby passing tornado blew the barn it was parked inside on top of it. Now we have damage on just about every panel, so some good dent removal experience ahead.

This is the extent of the rust on this one, rather sparse compared to what I usually run into.. I guess the dents will make up for it..

With a nod to local history, it will be painted up like the trucks from the local Leonardtown Dairy that used to exist many years ago. One of their original trucks still exists (rather poor condition) and may be a good reference for the hand painted lettering. Most pictures available show the sides but we need to capture the lettering on the rear of the truck as well.

 

[zmotorsports]

That delivery van ought to buff right out Robert.

 

[xtremek]

You know you're a real tease, right? I can't wait to see the Chevy done and learn more lessons on the Divco.

 

[aggierailroad]

We just started buying milk from a local dairy that I worked on equipment at as a teenager. They got everything they needed to produce and package themselves. Pretty cool to get milk in a real glass bottle that has a refundable bottle. I love supporting the little guy here, even if it's a bit more (but surprisingly not that much more!). Would be rad to see them restore a truck like this!

 

[ct71rr]

The wagon looks awesome! And I can’t wait for the milk truck, that’s going to be epic!!

 

[nonhog]

That milk truck damage reminds me of the 49 GMC I use to have, very similar damage. Looking forward to it. Heck I get a kick out of watching the Bus repairs!

 

[MP&C]

Thanks for all the comments guys and following along with us... Mike, I must be using the wrong buffing compound, it's not budging!!


Busy weekend, Norris Upholstery is in the process of getting the door panels done..

We plan on using the original stainless that was used on the door panels but some of the factory "nails" that get folded over were very fatigued and in some cases, gone..

To try and fix these we needed a machine that would weld on new nails, which were originally .06 diameter. Using a dent puller stud welder would require resistance welding, which means heat generated. Not good. We have a local sign shop, A&A MetalWorks, that has a Capacitive Discharge stud welder that does not produce the same type of heat.. He did not have the small studs needed so I picked up some of the type that fits the dent puller. Since a collet was needed, Allen dropped off one of his larger collets and Mike became more fluent on a worn out South Bend this weekend, making a collet so we could do a trial run... Here's a collet for a 1/4-20 stud, our sample...

Mike in action....

Our fabricated collet, borrowing some parts from the sample...

Testing out the welder, we did have to reshape the ends of the studs to have a point, much like the 1/4-20 sample above, but here are the results.. As you can see there is no appreciable heat introduced into the panel, no heat mark, no distortion. A stress test performed using pliers showed the metal would pull inward and the stud still did not release..

Welder in action:

With our trial run complete and deemed a success, Allen is ordering some 14 gauge pins to fit his machine so we won't need to modify them. The size goes up about .01, from .06 to .074, but they seemed plenty malleable to bend over for trim retention. I'll add, these CD stud welders work on steel, stainless, or aluminum.



Needing to put a fork in our bumper bolt brackets, the inside slots needed cleanup work and the 12" disc sander seemed ideal for doing such. But some clearance was needed on the machine..

All ready for welding..

Lastly, we visited the last known remaining milk truck from the Leonardtown Dairy. It had been sold to a local waterman, who used its refrigeration capability to store crabs and oysters. Needless to say, it wreaked havoc on what remained of the truck, the lower sides had been patched over with galvanized sheet metal long ago. It did give us enough details to capture what we need for lettering/sign painting the Divco.

 

[larry4406]

Robert - excellent as usual!

 

[jimkinney]

Learned something new, never heard of a CD stud welder. I will remember that, I hope.

You might suggest Mike lose the sweat jacket with the loose sleeves, when working on the lathe. Would hate to hear he got it snagged, safety first.

 

[MP&C]

Thanks for the comments guys! Jim, I don't know why he was so bundled up, I had the torpedo heater aimed right at him...

 

[WoodsTruck]

If a CD stud welder was not available could some of the new metal epoxies have been a fair substitute to attach the pins?

 

[MP&C]

the trim width is ~1/4", so as long as that provides enough surface area for adhesion, it should be good. The void behind the stainless is minimal, so that would be a consideration..

 

[Bowtie4life]

Thanks for all the comments guys and following along with us... Mike, I must be using the wrong buffing compound, it's not budging!!


Busy weekend, Norris Upholstery is in the process of getting the door panels done..

We plan on using the original stainless that was used on the door panels but some of the factory "nails" that get folded over were very fatigued and in some cases, gone..

To try and fix these we needed a machine that would weld on new nails, which were originally .06 diameter. Using a dent puller stud welder would require resistance welding, which means heat generated. Not good. We have a local sign shop, A&A MetalWorks, that has a Capacitive Discharge stud welder that does not produce the same type of heat.. He did not have the small studs needed so I picked up some of the type that fits the dent puller. Since a collet was needed, Allen dropped off one of his larger collets and Mike became more fluent on a worn out South Bend this weekend, making a collet so we could do a trial run... Here's a collet for a 1/4-20 stud, our sample...

Mike in action....

Our fabricated collet, borrowing some parts from the sample...

Testing out the welder, we did have to reshape the ends of the studs to have a point, much like the 1/4-20 sample above, but here are the results.. As you can see there is no appreciable heat introduced into the panel, no heat mark, no distortion. A stress test performed using pliers showed the metal would pull inward and the stud still did not release..

Welder in action:

With our trial run complete and deemed a success, Allen is ordering some 14 gauge pins to fit his machine so we won't need to modify them. The size goes up about .01, from .06 to .074, but they seemed plenty malleable to bend over for trim retention. I'll add, these CD stud welders work on steel, stainless, or aluminum.



Needing to put a fork in our bumper bolt brackets, the inside slots needed cleanup work and the 12" disc sander seemed ideal for doing such. But some clearance was needed on the machine..

All ready for welding..

Lastly, we visited the last known remaining milk truck from the Leonardtown Dairy. It had been sold to a local waterman, who used its refrigeration capability to store crabs and oysters. Needless to say, it wreaked havoc on what remained of the truck, the lower sides had been patched over with galvanized sheet metal long ago. It did give us enough details to capture what we need for lettering/sign painting the Divco.

Can't wait to see the lettering that's going on the milk truck!!!

 

[MP&C]

Not to jump the gun, but we already have the sign painter lined up...

 

[stinkity stoink]

Great stuff Robert. The stud welder pin is a great solution/ trick.

 

[larry4406]

Great stuff Robert. The stud welder pin is a great solution/ trick.

Agreed!

 

[MP&C]

Thanks guys!!


The press brakes have been sold, and have left the building...

 

[xtremek]

Congrats on a little bit more room in the shop.

 

[MP&C]

Congrats on a little bit more room in the shop.

That space is already taken!



Time for a wagon update, all of our mounting holes in the bumpers are filled, and the three pieces assembled into one..

We picked up the wagon from upholstery, still needs door panels done so we need to finish stainless trim for them.. Boy that sunlight is like turning on a light switch!!

How our brackets will work....

video explanation of our next modification...

With brackets clamped in place the "weld locations" are found by starting with centerline of the bumper, adjusting to actual offset of the car, and locating the spacing needed.

Jared and I add some tweaks to fine tune ear placement and test our tig welds at the same time..

In the meantime, Mike is doing some cleanup of the door stainless, bumping up dings, filing, and taking to a Trizact 5000 finish. Then we'll get the studs welded on and final polish..

 

[xtremek]

Some pretty good penetration on those welds. Glad to see I'm not the only one to brute force things into shape sometimes.

 

[iajonesy]

Robert, I am not really a GREEN guy, but that color sure pops in the sunlight. I also am going to steal your idea for the adjustable bumper mounts. Keep up the great thread.

Mike

 

[rattle_snake]

Wagon looks fantastic in the sun, wow!

 

[ct71rr]

Awesome! It's crazy how much different it looks in sunlight!

 

[MP&C]

Thanks Guys!!


Back to our door panel stainless, the correct studs came in for the CD stud welder, and tests have shown them to provide the solution we need..

These studs have much less mass at the end, for a lesser capacitive charge needed.

Tested on a piece of 19 gauge steel, note the back side has no discoloration whatsoever. Allen used a pair of Vise grips to give it a twist test to see if the weld would release. Where the one that is cut got too close to the cutters, the others did not release, and in fact distorted the shape of the metal because they held so well. The one pin shows a good 90* bend, which is what will be used to hold the stainless onto the door panel per the same design as original.

And now for the next wrench thrown in our bumper modifications.. Welding causes shrinking, so TIG welding the slotted brackets onto the back side of the bumper invariably causes flat spots on the front side of where the brackets reside.. So some quick work on the South Bend to make a purpose built punch so we can do some metal bumping on the bumper..

….or the motion picture visual....

And after a bit of metal bumping, we have the area down to less than a 1/32 depression, which should be just fine for the copper stage of plating..

Note the minimal gap behind the straightedge. One down, three to go...

 

[xtremek]

DANG!!!!!!!!!!!! That's amazing work. I'm surprised your ego isn't the size of Alaska. Maybe that's why you do such good work.

 

[MP&C]

Thanks, I've done my fair share of making scrap as well. I just keep doing the best I can and try to improve as I go...

 

[xtremek]

Then you must have made a bunch of mistakes, because you do incredible work.