MP&C Shop Projects

[RonnieJ-57]

Some repairs to round out the year. Our tried and true Lathem time clock in the shop gave up the ghost the other day. In speaking to Lathem, this model has been obsolete for some time and the only parts available are the print ribbon and a replacement motor. Doesn't help me with this little part...








But for a $1.99 package of music wire from Hobby Lobby and some round nose pliers, we are back in business....











I had received a pair of Fairmount wire edge pliers for Christmas, which had quite a twist to the handles where it was difficult for the catch to swing over the adjacent handle:

Since these aren't available for return at the local hardware store, and also since they are drop forged, I decided to do some heating and twisting. The Meco torch was used to bring the handles to a light tan color.... and a twisting device employed with a bit of tension via ratchet strap as the handles cooled...

















....and here they are in use on a test sample. These do a nice job of locking the wire tight to the flange as you stake the wire..

Finally, since the artist in the family was looking for a canvas to paint, I pointed her to the Lennox. Here is the layout on the one side in Sharpie in prep for painting..





Happy New Year to one and all!!

Those pliers would look great on the front of a vise grip.

 

[MP&C]

Oh yeah, the wagon...... we are still here, back to one of the more boring stages..... applying epoxy primer and making black dust on the floor...




















And in the planning stage for one of the trim details, the owner had ordered a ball milled dash insert for the wagon many months ago, which was far too 1990's billet. So naturally I breathed a sigh of relief when it did not fit the dash contour. (go figure) I was leaning toward an engine turned panel as it is more of a hotrod flavor. Unfortunately, it is more of a TRADITIONAL hot rod flavor, and we were in the gray area there as well. So in the meantime, a buddy has a shop in Wilmington DE, and does absolutely fabulous detail work (had a hand in the Double Bubble wagon's fabrication), and has been using this ribbed stainless sheet for dash inserts and other details.. (his picture and work)





This gives a nice classy and timeless look that is a better fit to the flavor of the car we have, so that is the direction we're headed... So to test a theory in adding a finished edge around the perimeter, we broke out the false wire edge Pullmax dies and installed them in the Lennox for a test run on some 19 gauge stainless. The "backstop" was setup to be just shy of a full wrap, which should give us a slight gap for the ribbed stainless to slide into. Our edge strips will be "outfitted" with some hidden press studs to hold it in place on the dash.

A little bit of polishing and that may just work.....

 

[mopar4don]

That is way to cool!

 

[zmotorsports]

Robert, if I remember correctly you are using SPI's products, correct?

Can I ask why you choose to sand the epoxy vs. laying a coat or two of epoxy down and then some 2K primer surfacer for filling and sanding?

I have always sprayed the epoxy over bare metal to help with corrosion as well as promote adhesion but then followed it with high build primer in which I sanded/blocked to level everything out. Then followed lastly with a coat of epoxy primer just before the paint as a sealer.

Just wondering why you are sanding the epoxy and not using a 2K primer or high build primer?

Thanks.

 

[MP&C]

Robert, if I remember correctly you are using SPI's products, correct?

Can I ask why you choose to sand the epoxy vs. laying a coat or two of epoxy down and then some 2K primer surfacer for filling and sanding?

I have always sprayed the epoxy over bare metal to help with corrosion as well as promote adhesion but then followed it with high build primer in which I sanded/blocked to level everything out. Then followed lastly with a coat of epoxy primer just before the paint as a sealer.

Just wondering why you are sanding the epoxy and not using a 2K primer or high build primer?

Thanks.

Mike, more than anything, my **** retentive nature coming out..

The epoxy is probably the most stable, and epoxy on epoxy is about as good as its going to get. SPI's epoxy does have some high build characteristics, especially if you let it sit well beyond the 30 minutes of induction (like overnight). And lastly, it's been a few years but some of the areas we addressed on the Fairlane build, which I used Slick Sand on, does show some wiggle in the paint after all this time. Something that the owner doesn't see but I have a slight twitch. I think you know full well what I'm talking about there.... I don't know if it's the sponge effect of the SS that has soaked up some thing prior to paint or it's just moving/shrinking after the fact. So this go round, I'm using epoxy as a high build, eliminating all lead seams (**** welding) where possible to minimize fill, and will play wait and see with the results.. As far as epoxies go, the SPI is VERY sandable, with ever slight loading that all but disappears with a full 7 day cure. I just think the all-epoxy will give better stability in the long run.

 

[zmotorsports]

Thank you for that explanation Robert. That makes perfect sense. One of my pet peeves about my first shop truck project was a few years after painting if I looked just right in the sunlight I could see some very fine sand scratches in a couple of areas. It drove me nuts but like you, I was the only one that probably noticed it and I was embarrassed by it. Most of my street rods/race cars I had months of time between primer and paint so it gave good opportunity for any shrink back before wet sanding and paint. However, on my daily drivers and especially that shop truck I crowded my primer to paint schedule to get it on the road as quickly as possible.

 

[MP&C]

The 24' long video wall we installed last month for the day job found me needing to make minor adjustments on two mounting pucks after all the mounts had been installed. Access was limited to a two inch wide gap to the wall and with them being in the center of the wall, they were not all that accessible. I McGuyver'ed my way out of that using a 1/2" Snap On wrench, some electrical tape, an 18" steel rule (wrench extension), and 1-1/2" wide masking tape (help with finger reach). So last night was the manufacture of the official tool, using a piece of 1/2 x 1/4 304 SS flat bar and two donor wrenches. The offset on the wrench from one end to the other is 30* , so if one end won't align with the flats on the adjusting nut due to obstacles, the other will. Wrench ends fusion/no filler TIG welded in place.

 

[stinkity stoink]

Robert , any tips on cleaning up spi epoxy overspray ? It’s on some things in my shop . I guess I should have built a temporary booth.

 

[MP&C]

For the floor in my booth it pretty much sweeps up. If you have it on other items it may be time to repaint??

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Mike, more than anything, my **** retentive nature coming out..

The epoxy is probably the most stable, and epoxy on epoxy is about as good as its going to get. SPI's epoxy does have some high build characteristics, especially if you let it sit well beyond the 30 minutes of induction (like overnight). And lastly, it's been a few years but some of the areas we addressed on the Fairlane build, which I used Slick Sand on, does show some wiggle in the paint after all this time. Something that the owner doesn't see but I have a slight twitch. I think you know full well what I'm talking about there.... I don't know if it's the sponge effect of the SS that has soaked up some thing prior to paint or it's just moving/shrinking after the fact. So this go round, I'm using epoxy as a high build, eliminating all lead seams (**** welding) where possible to minimize fill, and will play wait and see with the results.. As far as epoxies go, the SPI is VERY sandable, with ever slight loading that all but disappears with a full 7 day cure. I just think the all-epoxy will give better stability in the long run.

I agree the SPI is a incredible primer. It's gotta be a couple years now since I primed a bunch of parts for Rainbow Ranger outside. I kept thinking maybe tomorrow will find a place for them inside. Simply no room. Yesterday I was trying to rearrange stuff outside to make room for another "possible" project and realized none of the SPI primed parts were ever brought in out of elements. They still look great! Only other primer I have used that is equal is the old HOK Ep2
I have also found any of the other supposed primers when hit with a strong reducer or lacquer thinner will come off but with the SPI they will not. Didn't like it at first but sure do now!

I have never had any issue with a lead seam I have done and many now well over 30 yrs zero issues but get where you are coming from.

 

[zmotorsports]

I agree the SPI is a incredible primer. It's gotta be a couple years now since I primed a bunch of parts for Rainbow Ranger outside. I kept thinking maybe tomorrow will find a place for them inside. Simply no room. Yesterday I was trying to rearrange stuff outside to make room for another "possible" project and realized none of the SPI primed parts were ever brought in out of elements. They still look great! Only other primer I have used that is equal is the old HOK Ep2
I have also found any of the other supposed primers when hit with a strong reducer or lacquer thinner will come off but with the SPI they will not. Didn't like it at first but sure do now!

I have never had any issue with a lead seam I have done and many now well over 30 yrs zero issues but get where you are coming from.

Thanks for the input Randy.

I used to REALLY like the old PPG K200 primer. However, if rushed it shrunk back severely so I would only use it on long term projects that would sit for weeks or months between primer and paint. The next one I have experience with is the PPG K36. This seemed to be a good all around primer and held up well but I feel the K200 sanded better dry and the K36 sanded better wet. I have not let either sit outside in the elements so I cannot confirm the durability of them under those conditions.

I can however, attest that the older PPG DP epoxy primers held up extremely well in the elements. When they did away with the DP and went with the DPLF (Lead Free) I feel the durability and coverage suffered greatly. When I sprayed the SPI epoxy primer last summer I felt like it was very close to the old original DP epoxy primer from PPG and Barry from SPI pretty much confirmed that. Barry also led me to believe that the SPI Universal Clear was near to the original formula of the old PPG Concept high solids clear from the 90's but PPG had began putting less and less solids in their urethane clears over the years where the SPI has remained a high solids clear. I was very impressed with the SPI Universal Clear and how well it covered, sprayed and even cut & buffed.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

I have been using SPI products for years and would highly recommend them. I would also recommend PPG CRE-X21 epoxy primer when using an acid prior to prime. Question for stinkity stoink, what type of gun were you using when you shot the SPI primer?
I remember when I switched over to HVLP and the overspray changed from it getting everywhere and leaving a heavy sticky overspray to a dust that wipes off shooting with HVLP.

​

 

[MP&C]

The only Ford GT produced in Snakeskin Green. What a beauty... sick!

31-Mile 2019 Ford GT Carbon Series

Bid for the chance to own a 31-Mile 2019 Ford GT Carbon Series at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #63,679.

bringatrailer.com

 

[stinkity stoink]

I have been using SPI products for years and would highly recommend them. I would also recommend PPG CRE-X21 epoxy primer when using an acid prior to prime. Question for stinkity stoink, what type of gun were you using when you shot the SPI primer?
I remember when I switched over to HVLP and the overspray changed from it getting everywhere and leaving a heavy sticky overspray to a dust that wipes off shooting with HVLP.

​

I was using an HVLP. I haven’t tried wiping anything down yet with any type of chemicals. I know it doesn’t just come off with water.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

I typically can just wipe it down with a cloth, if you swipe it with your finger will it wipe off clean or do you see droplets that are stuck on. If I saw this in my shop, I would think my primer was not atomizing enough "droplets too big" so they stay wet until they land and then cure. When I switched to HVLP I was using too much air pressure to get the gun to shoot a good pattern, it wasn't until I got the right size fluid tip to reduce the air pressure which reduced the amount of overspray. I think it produces an atomizing that is finer and allows the droplet to dry before it lands on everything, so they don't stick. These are just my observations, hopefully the folks with the knowledge will chime in and offer some insite.

 

[MP&C]

More blocking, then more epoxy...














Another hurdle in the way of running our wiring under the dash, we need to address the defrost vents for the Vintage Air unit. What they send is cheesy at best, and given they only send two vents where Chevy installed 4, we're going to go another route..

The factory piece does take up quite a bit of real estate, and now interferes with the raingear wiper system and the VA heater box.





So all things considered, we plan on using the original vent top portion and adapt tubing in the equation to make use of a more flexible hose arrangement. The VA has two 2" outlets at the top for defrost, so we will use a 2" tube to feed the center two vents, and 1-1/4" tubes to feed to the outer vents.








Missed some of the details with that one, a bit more for the center vent..











Forming our transition from 2" to 1-1/4".....

As the ports from the VA point almost straight up, the 2" tubes were welded at a slight incline to remove any sharp bends in the supply hose.








.....as a follow-up, our local artist has been working on the other side of the Lennox..

and we have been working with some local hippies to explore other shop shirt options.. This was done on the yellow shop shirt so naturally that base color limits what results you will get...

 

[Wayne67vert]

The cone for metal shaping is something I haven't seen before. I see it's quite useful.

 

[MP&C]

The cone for metal shaping is something I haven't seen before. I see it's quite useful.

When I bought the power hammer he threw that in with the deal. Didn’t know what I’d ever use it for, but couldn’t bring myself to part with it. Glad I didn’t. It’s a solid piece of steel, no clue what it was for.

 

[Horror Business]

She is very talented.

 

[Boosted1]

I like the artwork. Very creative.

 

[stinkity stoink]

She should try her hands at some artistic bead rolling. She is Super talented !!

 

[iajonesy]

Hey Robert, when you get the shirts perfected I'll take 2 in size xl. Let me know the cost and I'll settle up with you. Thanks.

Mike

 

[mopar4don]

Hi Robert,
I sure appreciate your gift of teaching. It takes a lot of extra time to snap pictures and make videos.
Not to mention all the time you take to upload your content to MULTIPLE forums and sites. Then the time to respond to many individuals (like myself) with questions and problems.
I just want to express how grateful I am and to say THANK YOU.

I also would like to purchase 2 of the t-shirts (XL) 1 in long sleeve, and 1 in short sleeve if you have them.
Like Mike, let me know the price and I will send payment.

Don

 

[ojh]

Can I 'borrow' her? the Trumpf could use a little 'pick me up'!

 

[Offcenter12]

Hi Robert, This thread is a treasure and love that artwork on the Lennox! Sign me up for one long sleeve and two short sleeve Tees, size Large.

Thanks,
John

 

[Biff Lungren]

Love your work and your supporting local artists, I'd love to get a longsleeve in large!

 

[Pressingonward]

I like your trick of rolling that one piece to define your cone sheet metal cut lines - quick and easy!

Also, I see your hammering has gotten even faster lol

 

[56vette461]

More blocking, then more epoxy...














Another hurdle in the way of running our wiring under the dash, we need to address the defrost vents for the Vintage Air unit. What they send is cheesy at best, and given they only send two vents where Chevy installed 4, we're going to go another route..

The factory piece does take up quite a bit of real estate, and now interferes with the raingear wiper system and the VA heater box.





So all things considered, we plan on using the original vent top portion and adapt tubing in the equation to make use of a more flexible hose arrangement. The VA has two 2" outlets at the top for defrost, so we will use a 2" tube to feed the center two vents, and 1-1/4" tubes to feed to the outer vents.








Missed some of the details with that one, a bit more for the center vent..











Forming our transition from 2" to 1-1/4".....

As the ports from the VA point almost straight up, the 2" tubes were welded at a slight incline to remove any sharp bends in the supply hose.








.....as a follow-up, our local artist has been working on the other side of the Lennox..

and we have been working with some local hippies to explore other shop shirt options.. This was done on the yellow shop shirt so naturally that base color limits what results you will get...

I'm glad to see someone else still uses the beat up used and abused B&D Workmate. I have one of the original models and still use it when I'm in the storage shop.

 

[PugetDude]

I'm glad to see someone else still uses the beat up used and abused B&D Workmate. I have one of the original models and still use it when I'm in the storage shop.

I have one of those, too, probably 40 years old now. It lives outside my shop next to my outdoor vise 99% of the time. I primarily use it for cutting/grinding/sanding. It's on it's third set of wooden tops and one replacement plastic handle. Absolute workhorse.

 

[demetri94]

Your work is beautiful, attention to detail and finish is very impressive!

 

[zmotorsports]

Your work is beautiful, attention to detail and finish is very impressive!

^^Agreed. I have a hard time looking at Robert's work. It is quite impressive. I used to do a lot of paint and body work and thought I did a pretty good job, until I started following Robert.

 

[demetri94]

^^Agreed. I have a hard time looking at Robert's work. It is quite impressive. I used to do a lot of paint and body work and thought I did a pretty good job, until I started following Robert.

Lol, I feel the same. If anything it gives us inspiration and a goal to work towards.

 

[MP&C]

Thanks for all the feedback and comments about the prototype shirts.. We are still working the logisitics and trying to keep them cost effective. The tye dye portion per shirt cost me about what I paid for the shirt to begin with. So we're still investigating options to try and keep the cost down.


In adapting our defroster vents for the wagon, we needed to add a bead in the tubing to better retain the hose attached. The beading die we made for this purpose on the bead roller was too large to fit the 1-1/4" tube, so another tool is in order.. Our worn out Southbend was used to make the round profiles, with a step in the bottom die to act as a backstop for better consistency in bead placement.





I don't have much in the form of hardened tool steel for making specialized cutters for the lathe, so I used a 3/4" square cutter from the Lennox to form the following for making the concave shape.. the male counterpart was done on the fly...





The 4140 square stock was squared on both ends, then a relief added for our round profile to rest in.








Our c-clamps had a VEE notch that would assist in keeping the round bits from moving, so that was used in lieu of a vise..








The infinitely adjustable clamps worked well, the TIG was used to add a fusion weld around the perimeter (no filler rod)

After welding, the assembly is heated to a straw color (pre-blue) and dipped in our official Mickey Thompson fluid container (transmission fluid) to harden things up a bit.





Here are the dies in use, take note of what happens when you don't keep pressure against the backstop.... No harm no foul, a couple more passes cleans it right up...

That should help to keep the hose in place...

 

[PugetDude]

Thanks for all the feedback and comments about the prototype shirts.. We are still working the logisitics and trying to keep them cost effective. The tye dye portion per shirt cost me about what I paid for the shirt to begin with. So we're still investigating options to try and keep the cost down.

Robert, I’d be interested in a couple of solid color non-hippie/flower power/ summer of love/ organic /non-gmo/vegan T- shirts if you decide to make them available. Plain old cotton instead of hemp for me!

 

[Offcenter12]

^^^^^^^ The post from PugetDude above made me laugh. I grew up in the 60s and 70s, but wasn't a hippie so I'd be good with solid colors too. Either or works fine.

John

 

[zmotorsports]

Looks like a nice set of dies Robert. Years ago I purchased a Bead Former that mounts in the vice for adding ribs for hoses. I used it a lot when I was building race cars/street rods but less lately.

 

[rbgearz]

What happened to this thread? One of my favorites!

 

[MP&C]

Been swamped at the day job hanging TV's...











And making recessed mounts for smaller ones....














Should have a wagon update later this week...

 

[RivennHewn]

I’m kinda tired of the day job getting in the way of what I want to be doing.

But then again, I kinda like them paychecks

 

[PugetDude]

Been swamped at the day job hanging TV's...











And making recessed mounts for smaller ones....














Should have a wagon update later this week...

Quality job on the install, Robert. Looks great.
Is that a one-piece screen? How big?