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MRCOOL DIY Mini Split, Seriously, I Think...

yeldogt

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18,184
Yes, no problem removing/moving them.



Yes, same unit with attached lines.
My AC tech adds freon based on pressure. At least that's how I understand it. The first service they did not evacuate, they charged and used a leak probe. It was working fine, but I thought since I was getting a replacement unit, that rather than let the freon leak out I would close the valves.

It's working great, but I have a hunch it needs a little more freon. 60oz capacity.

I have a call in for our local tech - he's great. Probly cost me $100. Well worth it.

The new wifi program is really great.

So -- you needed to remove the old head and line and install both new?

The new Mr. Cool warranty provides some $$ for labor ... but -- the new system would allow for just head reattach if you can move things around since it's not three independent parts.

Minisplits don't get charged based on pressure -- they are weight charged. The expansion valve is in the outside unit. i'm sure it is undercharged as some leaked out and the new head/ lineset is not proving the charge.

There is a good possibility the head was damaged when it was installed -- this is a common problem when trying to get them installed ... the less expensive units don't have the evap protection as some do.
 
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Browneye

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So -- you needed to remove the old head and line and install both new?

Yes.

The new Mr. Cool warranty provides some $$ for labor ... but -- the new system would allow for just head reattach if you can move things around since it's not three independent parts.

I was happy to get a replacement unit. The old one was pulled out with the lineset and the new one installed and connected. I sweated a lot. LOL

Minisplits don't get charged based on pressure -- they are weight charged. The expansion valve is in the outside unit. i'm sure it is undercharged as some leaked out and the new head/ lineset is not proving the charge.

I think so too. I'm not a tech and I wasn't there so I don't know for sure what the tech that troubleshooted the old one did. But I can surely ask him on the next visit to evacuate the system and then recharge with the correct amount of freon. It's on the label on the unit - 60.3oz or some such. It also provides high and low pressure maximums.

There is a good possibility the head was damaged when it was installed -- this is a common problem when trying to get them installed ... the less expensive units don't have the evap protection as some do.

I'm not familiar with 'evap protection'. The old head unit ran for two years - this is season three. It started freezing up and that's when we had a tech diagnose it. He found where freon was escaping - at the connection where the flex part of the liquid line attaches to the fixed part of the head unit. Since it was under warranty, MrCool replaced the entire head unit assembly with lineset. In the meantime, I thought since I had confirmation they were sending one, I turned off the valves on the compressor so no more freon would leak out. My best guess is that it's down a pound or so. It works great, but I think it could be a little colder.

I appreciate the input.
:thumbup:

I answered in BLUE.
 

EricVonHa

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Installed Mr Cool 18k DIY in April. Works like a champ!

It was the perfect install where the lineset is extended the full length of 25' over only a 3' rise.

I really like their phone app. Simple and easy to use. No muss, no fuss for quick changes. The supplied handheld remote is rarely used.

Possibly a bug in the "follow me" feature for the remote-- tried using this because the built-in thermostats in the head units aren't super accurate-- if you're blowing 60 degree air out a huge vent, what is a thermostat going to read being only 8" away?

The above is the only design flaw as I see it but that issue is inherent in all mini-split systems which run an algorithm from a built-in thermostat. Seems like the unit over-cools or takes too long to cool the room down.

The above is a factor of heat loading, insulation, installation height, direct sunlight (or not) etc. There's too many variables for the unit to accurately track. I just wish they had something in the setup to ask if the installation had easterly facing windows (large heatload or small). Then, go with a more aggressive cooling program or not.

How did I determine this? I'm a temperature nazi. I look at the app which displays the detected room temp and the mini-split set point and then I compare that against a digital thermometer in the middle of the room.

Don't get me wrong, these are badass units and the thing works AWESOME. My only pet peeve is that it's common for the unit to under-cool when there's a huge heat-load of morning sun causing the room to heat up mega fast. Then, on the downward side of the sun, the unit will overcool the room. 3 degrees plus or minus on both sides of the setpoint! Nothing to gripe about, though. I don't necessarily feel the difference. It's only because I'm looking at a separate therometer
 

Browneye

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You will always have temp variances within your living space, just a nature of the way these work. The follow-me will use a temp sensor in the remote. I find it doesn't make much difference actually.

The room temp sensor is the black antenna thingie behind the cover that sits just above the cooling coil in the air handler. It's going to sense room temp as the air is drawn into the blower cage.

One of the issues I have with my main 2-ton unit is that it's nearly 10' up the wall with 18' ceilings, so there air is always much warmer up there. We don't have to set the temp control as low to get a comfortable room temp at floor level. The cooler air does sink, it's coolest at the floor - and with all tile floors over concrete slab, if the house is kept cool over several days the floor acts as a heat-sink, or I should say 'cool-sink'.

With a central system your thermostat is in a central location and ducting is adjusted for airflow to balance throughout the home. They are still notorious for areas or rooms that are too hot or too cold.

My next hvac project is likely to be a split double-head unit, the new DIY 18K btu has two 9K heads, for the two back bedrooms of the house. What a great solution.

We'll end up with the whole house done for about five thousand - a third of what the contractors wanted for a new central system. We retained our old gas furnace for our mild winters, the forty year old unit still works like a champ.

The top border of the wall coverings here is 8 feet. It is a real ****** to get that bigger air handler up a ladder and the lineset fed into the hole, and get it hung on the mounting bracket. I sweat like a pig. LOL I've done it twice now, and removed once. Dear lord.

IMG_1185_1.jpg
 
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EricVonHa

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You will always have temp variances within your living space, just a nature of the way these work. The follow-me will use a temp sensor in the remote. I find it doesn't make much difference actually.

The room temp sensor is the black antenna thingie behind the cover that sits just above the cooling coil in the air handler. It's going to sense room temp as the air is drawn into the blower cage.

One of the issues I have with my main 2-ton unit is that it's nearly 10' up the wall with 18' ceilings, so there air is always much warmer up there. We don't have to set the temp control as low to get a comfortable room temp at floor level. The cooler air does sink, it's coolest at the floor - and with all tile floors over concrete slab, if the house is kept cool over several days the floor acts as a heat-sink, or I should say 'cool-sink'.

With a central system your thermostat is in a central location and ducting is adjusted for airflow to balance throughout the home. They are still notorious for areas or rooms that are too hot or too cold.

My next hvac project is likely to be a split double-head unit, the new DIY 18K btu has two 9K heads, for the two back bedrooms of the house. What a great solution.

We'll end up with the whole house done for about five thousand - a third of what the contractors wanted for a new central system. We retained our old gas furnace for our mild winters, the forty year old unit still works like a champ.

The top border of the wall coverings here is 8 feet. It is a real ****** to get that bigger air handler up a ladder and the lineset fed into the hole, and get it hung on the mounting bracket. I sweat like a pig. LOL I've done it twice now, and removed once. Dear lord.

IMG_1185_1.jpg

Nice install!

My room is tall as well and I keep the louver position set at the highest position possible. Cool from the top down in other words.

I still think they could do a better job with the automatic compressor activation and fan-speed programming based from an additional sun sensor or just something simple that says "Press 1 for aggressive cooling in rooms with large easterly facing windows, or Press 2 for normal setting".

The main thermostat for the main cooling/heating system is in the same room. This system has 4 air registers and 3 returns. It kicks ***, but $$$ to run. The mini-split is waaay more efficient. The main difference, though, is that the old skool Chryo-therm or whatever it is thermostat operation combinged with how the space is plumbed with ducting keeps the room within 1 degree of specified temp at all times. The mini-split is +/- 3 degrees. If I weren't such a nutcase looking at data points all of the time I wouldn't care because the temp swing really isn't an annoyance to how it feels in the room.. just a a data point dichotomy which isn't really an issue.

---

On another note, in speaking with maint HVAC tech here and there, the general consensus is that you get what you pay for with Mitsubishi. I couldn't justify the cost difference. I'm ok with 20-30% more for better performance. However, once you throw in the "certified contractor installation" -- all bets are off. The Mr Cool DIY is the clear winner across the board (including the Garage Journal, ha!)
 

Browneye

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Thanks!
Yes, Mitsubishi seems to be the premier brand, and seems to me it comes from Japan.
Daikin also ranks up there, now owned by Goodman.
I'm pretty handy, have built boats and cars and airplanes, houses, a DIY extraordinaire. Installing a minisplit is like child's play. I just sweat a lot. LOL

I got quotes for both brands from 4500 to 5500 for an installed unit, pretty much regardless of size. And the sellers I spoke with aren't all that enthused. The entire industry is built on sending a couple of guys out for the day and raking in five grand or so in profits. And why you hear so much negativity. "Women hate the look of that air handler on the wall". Really?? My wife doesn't give a ****. LOL Or the famous, "Oh, those aren't very reliable". Really again? Why are you selling them then if they aren't reliable? Everywhere you go around the world these things are hung on the wall, cooling the place. Millions of them.
And I love the "We only sell Mitsubishi, they're the best and we have the best luck with them." Do you understand they are twice as much as everything else?

I talked to some real bozo's in the biz. One guy came over from Home Depot, spent three hours trying to convince us to spend $18K on a hvac system. Even convinced the wife to serve him a dinner taster of what she was cooking. Of the many comments, one was, 'you better jump on this now or we'll be all booked up'. I should have thrown him out much sooner. Another claim was that he was 'retired law enforcement and he just does this on the side to supplant his income'. And that he started a limo company that his daughters run. The guy was a real sham.
Then I tracked him down on FB where he posted how he had made a killing selling AC units - like five or eight grand in one day. What an idiot. GTFO. LOL

015.jpg


Here you can see I have to lift this 38lb unit with the rigid section of lineset, out and straight in, on a 8' step ladder. Talk about a trick. :scared:

023_1.jpg
 
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My Old Tools

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My 36k MrCool was ordered yesterday from Ingrams. It hasn't shipped yet. I'll be running the electrical and building the mounts while I wait. The building is 30x40x12 with a 6/12 pitch, so 22 feet tall. It's well insulated with fiberglass roll on the frame and doubled on the ceiling. 12x12 insulated overhead door, man door, and 7 double pane low E windows, 5 facing north, 2 east. Outside unit will under a carport shaded. Location is northeast Texas near Tyler. Extreme humidity (near Louisiana) and heat in the summer. Pretty mild in the winter. I blame GJ for the costs.
 

yeldogt

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Browneye: There is no "flex part" in real terms .... in a perfect world there would be. Moving the line set and over flexing is a common cause of leaks -- it puts pressure on the thin wall copper. With the constant temp changes adding stress over time ---- leaks.

Also -- when you get around to doing the duel head make sure you get and read the manuals. The sizing of the head and compressor and operation is a bit different than the singles.
 
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yeldogt

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The HVAC contract for my new build includes 3 Mitsubishi mini splits .... picking equipment when part of an overall project comes down to more than just the equipment price. In my case the installs are difficult and include hidden line-sets and hard pipes drains. Good installers don't come cheap -- the cost of labor exceeds the basic equipment cost. When you look at the overall cost and savings that may come from using less expensive equipment when paying for labor -- it's just not worth it ..... and the Mitsubishi equipment works better. The head units include an "eye" that watches the room. Duel split vanes that move independently with integrated independent side to side movement ... this, coupled to better electronics just adds up to a nicer unit .. they are built better as well ... you can tell by looking at them.

None of the above negates the position of the Mr. Cool -- but, you don't want to pay 5k putting one in. The three part design of the newest mr. cool with the availability of different line sets is a game changer in my opinion .... it's really going to open up the market to even more people willing an attempt to self install ... the included $$ payback in the warranty for needed HVAC labor should fixing be required is really interesting and very smart.

I have an older LG unit left over from an earlier project that I'm going to use in the smallest part of my studio outbuilding .... but, I'm not discounting the use of a Mr. Cool for the large open space attached to it.
 

EricVonHa

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The HVAC contract for my new build includes 3 Mitsubishi mini splits .... picking equipment when part of an overall project comes down to more than just the equipment price. In my case the installs are difficult and include hidden line-sets and hard pipes drains. Good installers don't come cheap -- the cost of labor exceeds the basic equipment cost. When you look at the overall cost and savings that may come from using less expensive equipment when paying for labor -- it's just not worth it ..... and the Mitsubishi equipment works better. The head units include an "eye" that watches the room. Duel split vanes that move independently with integrated independent side to side movement ... this, coupled to better electronics just adds up to a nicer unit .. they are built better as well ... you can tell by looking at them.

Agreed.

None of the above negates the position of the Mr. Cool -- but, you don't want to pay 5k putting one in. The three part design of the newest mr. cool with the availability of different line sets is a game changer in my opinion .... it's really going to open up the market to even more people willing an attempt to self install ... the included $$ payback in the warranty for needed HVAC labor should fixing be required is really interesting and very smart.

I have an older LG unit left over from an earlier project that I'm going to use in the smallest part of my studio outbuilding .... but, I'm not discounting the use of a Mr. Cool for the large open space attached to it.

Cost vs. Benefit ratio is huge pointing toward the Mr Cool. All in I'm at $1.2k installed for an 18k unit.

I'll install 3 or 4 of these before I'll spend $15k on the installation of other units.

DIY FTW !
 

yeldogt

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Cost vs. Benefit ratio is huge pointing toward the Mr Cool. All in I'm at $1.2k installed for an 18k unit.

I'll install 3 or 4 of these before I'll spend $15k on the installation of other units.

DIY FTW !



OH -- I get it.

The new generation 3 is a bit more than 1.2k -- with slightly better specifications. And not having to work with the line set connected is nice if you have much bending to do.

This is GJ -- people have more skill and willingness to give these a try. If the specifications fit your application they are great IMO. But -- some of your issues are addressed in the better equipment.

If you have the ability to get someone to do the flare connections and pump down for a reasonable cost you can end up with a slightly better system if you go with a non-DIY unit .. and not have to worry about line length.

I had a conversation yesterday with the guys doing my work and they are going to help me out ... so -- if I can get my act together they will connect up my LG and whatever else I want to do.

I'm sure the DIY offerings are just going to grow and get better over time ... frankly ditching the flare connections seems like a good idea anyway ... Pros now have press fittings for example. The flare fittings work very well if done correctly -- they often are not
 

jjrbus

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Best video I have seen on properly doing a flare. 600 psi is no place to do a duct tape and bailing wire job.


 

EricVonHa

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Best video I have seen on properly doing a flare. 600 psi is no place to do a duct tape and bailing wire job.



I'm all about DIY... however, I draw the line at brake lines and A/C flare fittings.

Reason being, the next-level investment (if you're doing your own lines) is obviously getting a good set of gauges and vac pump etc.

I have my YouTube degree on most everything, but flaring fittings and the purchase of the associated tools is not on my cost/benefit ratio list.

The flare tool the guy uses in the video is easily $100+
 

Browneye

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Browneye: There is no "flex part" in real terms .... in a perfect world there would be. Moving the line set and over flexing is a common cause of leaks -- it puts pressure on the thin wall copper. With the constant temp changes adding stress over time ---- leaks.

Also -- when you get around to doing the duel head make sure you get and read the manuals. The sizing of the head and compressor and operation is a bit different than the singles.

No, the MrCool line set is a flex line. Looks something like this:

hcs-7512_568__3_1024x1024.jpg
 

Browneye

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The HVAC contract for my new build includes 3 Mitsubishi mini splits .... picking equipment when part of an overall project comes down to more than just the equipment price. In my case the installs are difficult and include hidden line-sets and hard pipes drains. Good installers don't come cheap -- the cost of labor exceeds the basic equipment cost. When you look at the overall cost and savings that may come from using less expensive equipment when paying for labor -- it's just not worth it ..... and the Mitsubishi equipment works better. The head units include an "eye" that watches the room. Duel split vanes that move independently with integrated independent side to side movement ... this, coupled to better electronics just adds up to a nicer unit .. they are built better as well ... you can tell by looking at them.

None of the above negates the position of the Mr. Cool -- but, you don't want to pay 5k putting one in. The three part design of the newest mr. cool with the availability of different line sets is a game changer in my opinion .... it's really going to open up the market to even more people willing an attempt to self install ... the included $$ payback in the warranty for needed HVAC labor should fixing be required is really interesting and very smart.

I have an older LG unit left over from an earlier project that I'm going to use in the smallest part of my studio outbuilding .... but, I'm not discounting the use of a Mr. Cool for the large open space attached to it.

Obviously there's always a weighing of pros and cons when paying for any kind of HVAC installation. Each has to determine what works for them.

In my case, we are projected to move in 3-4 years. Getting two units installed in the house with MrCool DIY cost me about $2500. The HVAC contractors I spoke with wanted four to five thousand each, and 12 to 18 thousand for a new central system. So kind of a no-brainer for us. I essence, I could re-purchase them two more times and still be less overall.

The 1-ton unit I installed in our master bedroom was a scratch-n-dent unit from Ingrams, cost was about $800. That's not much more than a window or portable unit and works just absolutely fantastic.

The new line set connection to the air handler on the newest MrCool units also improves installation compatibility, versatility. It also allows for customization of line set length.


And yeah, a few new options with multiple air handlers also opens up new opportunities for homeowners wanting to do it themselves. :thumbup:
 

maplewood

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Just wanted to chime in to say that the 24k Mr. Cool I put in my (relatively small) 3 car garage is the single best upgrade I've done. I'm in Phoenix, where it hit 116* yesterday. Garage was formerly fairly useless for the entirety of the summer, at least if you wanted your sanity. Now it's my go-to spot during the evening, tinkering on the car and lighting up the occasional cigar.

The install was fairly easy, although I never did get the indoor unit to sit perfectly flat against the wall, it's very slightly pushed out by the lineset. The outdoor unit was also a bit more difficult to install than most others I've seen. The only place to put the unit was about 10 feet away from the garage wall, in a corner made by the block wall separating our yard from our neighbors, and the block wall separating back yard from front. There's a gate to get into the backyard with a path, and I was told I must keep that path (pavers) intact. In the end, I ran 4" PVC as a conduit, and tunneled under the paver path. Perhaps not the "most correct" install, but it's out of the way, and the wife is happy.

I have the unit set at 80*. I've insulated 2 of 3 garage doors with the Owens Corning kit, but the ceiling and most of the walls are uninsulated. I only turn the unit on when I'm in there, so on days like yesterday, it's still fairly warm if you're working on the far side of the garage. When it's only in the 90's, I have to move my chair out of the airflow (if I'm just sitting around), or I get too cold. Couldn't ask for more as far as I'm concerned.
 

yeldogt

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No, the MrCool line set is a flex line. Looks something like this:

hcs-7512_568__3_1024x1024.jpg

Depending on the construction -- the inside line is corrugated copper. I know some of the early ones that used EDPM were pulled from the market.

It seems like a good idea ...
 

jjrbus

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I'm all about DIY... however, I draw the line at brake lines and A/C flare fittings.

Reason being, the next-level investment (if you're doing your own lines) is obviously getting a good set of gauges and vac pump etc.

I have my YouTube degree on most everything, but flaring fittings and the purchase of the associated tools is not on my cost/benefit ratio list.

The flare tool the guy uses in the video is easily $100+

Depends on how you look at it, I know people that will spend a few hundred dollars on a putter, but think I am odd for spending money on AC tools. I do my own car AC so only needed to add a few items to the collection, then got lucky and found a Daikin tool kit for $300, add a micron gauge and about what a service call would have cost me. Toss in a 25% chance of getting a competent tech in my area.

I have applied my You tube credits towards my Master Shade Tree certification. If the minis hold up for 2 more years, should make me eligible for my PHd.
 

Browneye

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Depends on how you look at it, I know people that will spend a few hundred dollars on a putter, but think I am odd for spending money on AC tools. I do my own car AC so only needed to add a few items to the collection, then got lucky and found a Daikin tool kit for $300, add a micron gauge and about what a service call would have cost me. Toss in a 25% chance of getting a competent tech in my area.

I have applied my You tube credits towards my Master Shade Tree certification. If the minis hold up for 2 more years, should make me eligible for my PHd.

You've read my mind.
If I hadn't gone with MrCool DIY I would have bought the tools and done it myself anyway. :)
You can get a freon cert online for next to nothing. This stuff isn't rocket-science, but the guys in the biz are all about protecting their trade - and I get that, it's fine, just doesn't work for me. I'm probly the only guy in CA that changes his own oil on his brand new mercedes benz. LOL

There was a time when I was going to build my own airplane as well. I built two boats, restored to others, restored a bunch of motorcyles, several cars, built up computers from parts, built two houses, and quite well versed in every phase of construction - I just don't do rough electrical or concrete finishing. :dunno:
 
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jjrbus

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You've read my mind.
If I hadn't gone with MrCool DIY I would have bought the tools and done it myself anyway. :)
You can get a freon cert online for next to nothing. This stuff isn't rocket-science, but the guys in the biz are all about protecting their trade - and I get that, it's fine, just doesn't work for me. I'm probly the only guy in CA that changes his own oil on his brand new mercedes benz. LOL

There was a time when I was going to build my own airplane as well. I built two boats, restored to others, restored a bunch of motorcyles, several cars, built up computers from parts, built two houses, and quite well versed in every phase of construction - I just don't do rough electrical or concrete finishing. :dunno:

Wish you were close by, I could use a guy like you.
 

My Old Tools

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My 36k MrCool was ordered yesterday from Ingrams. It hasn't shipped yet. I'll be running the electrical and building the mounts while I wait. The building is 30x40x12 with a 6/12 pitch, so 22 feet tall. It's well insulated with fiberglass roll on the frame and doubled on the ceiling. 12x12 insulated overhead door, man door, and 7 double pane low E windows, 5 facing north, 2 east. Outside unit will under a carport shaded. Location is northeast Texas near Tyler. Extreme humidity (near Louisiana) and heat in the summer. Pretty mild in the winter. I blame GJ for the costs.

So, my shop described above. The 36k MrCool is backordered now. They have 24K in stock. Anybody want to tell me 24K will work in my shop? It's rated 1000-1200sf in a home environment.
 

Browneye

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I think you'll like the 3-ton better.
Ingram's is backordered? Did you check lowes or depot? I don't know if they're selling them anymore or not.

They come in by the container-load, so they're likely sold out due to seasonal rush.

EDIT: - yep, says backordered. You could get the Advantage and have a AC guy do the vac/test/turnup. Probly do it for about the same cost. Seems $3-500 should buy you a AC tech guy for an hour or two. I found several when I started crunching. You might even get a youngster to do it on the side, come out one evening or a Saturday for some extra cash.
 
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Swervyjoe

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My Old Tools:
So, my shop described above. The 36k MrCool is backordered now. They have 24K in stock. Anybody want to tell me 24K will work in my shop? It's rated 1000-1200sf in a home environment


The 24K keeps my 24x50 with 10' ceilings shop cooled off just fine.
 

clymer

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Hey y'all. So I pre-ordered the multi-zone DIY mr. cool back in May. The thing finally showed up week before last and I installed a single 36K compressor with three head units (12k, 9k, 9k).

The 25' line sets worked perfectly for the upstairs heads and they also have a 16' lineset now, so the coil outside from the downstairs unit is there, but not as big as it could have been.

I will post some pics eventually, but the thing is working great so far; two 9k head units in two of the bed rooms upstairs cools the whole floor with the doors open, and a single 12k for the down stairs works great for down there. the breakdown from ingrams:

36k BTU 21.5 SEER MrCool DIY Ductless Heat Pump Condenser - 4 Zone 240v HA21057 1 $2,356.13
9k BTU MrCool DIY Ductless Wall Mounted Air Handler - 3rd Generation 240v HA21058 2 $677.06
12k BTU MrCool DIY Ductless Wall Mounted Air Handler - 3rd Generation 240v HA21059 1 $387.03
1/4" x 1/2" MrCool DIY Ductless Split System Line Set - 25 Feet HA20973 2 $0.00
9k 12k & 18k BTU MrCool DIY Ductless Split System Line Set
Length
16 Ft
HA20971 1 $0.00
Subtotal $3,420.22
Grand Total (Excl.Tax) $3,420.22
Tax $213.76
Grand Total (Incl.Tax) $3,633.98
 

yeldogt

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Hey y'all. So I pre-ordered the multi-zone DIY mr. cool back in May. The thing finally showed up week before last and I installed a single 36K compressor with three head units (12k, 9k, 9k).

The 25' line sets worked perfectly for the upstairs heads and they also have a 16' lineset now, so the coil outside from the downstairs unit is there, but not as big as it could have been.

I will post some pics eventually, but the thing is working great so far; two 9k head units in two of the bed rooms upstairs cools the whole floor with the doors open, and a single 12k for the down stairs works great for down there. the breakdown from ingrams:

36k BTU 21.5 SEER MrCool DIY Ductless Heat Pump Condenser - 4 Zone 240v HA21057 1 $2,356.13
9k BTU MrCool DIY Ductless Wall Mounted Air Handler - 3rd Generation 240v HA21058 2 $677.06
12k BTU MrCool DIY Ductless Wall Mounted Air Handler - 3rd Generation 240v HA21059 1 $387.03
1/4" x 1/2" MrCool DIY Ductless Split System Line Set - 25 Feet HA20973 2 $0.00
9k 12k & 18k BTU MrCool DIY Ductless Split System Line Set
Length
16 Ft
HA20971 1 $0.00
Subtotal $3,420.22
Grand Total (Excl.Tax) $3,420.22
Tax $213.76
Grand Total (Incl.Tax) $3,633.98

Why did you use the 36k compressor w/ 30k load? What's the minium turn down of the compressor ?
 

clymer

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Joined
Feb 20, 2018
Messages
33
Pics attached. I need to dream up a way to enclose the lines running through the closet, but the setup works fine for the whole house. The other one I put into my place in MA (for sale BTW, in case anyone wants to move to the peoples republic of MA) is still working mint, going on 3 years (24K, single air handler for an entire ranch)
 

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clymer

Active member
Joined
Feb 20, 2018
Messages
33
Why did you use the 36k compressor w/ 30k load? What's the minium turn down of the compressor ?

Yeah.. About that. We were orig. talking about the 30K, but these things were all back-ordered and sitting on loading docks in shipping containers with no ability to get them, due to the covid situation. So basically, to make a long story short, I had one week of PTO week of July 6 to get this done. This was the only config they could deliver in that time frame. So I jumped on it. One would have to assume that these multi-zone units would not necessarily run all heads concurrently, so I didn't really mind slight over-sizing the compressor.

Got it done for under 4K after buying the line set covers. I orig. was not going to do DIY because Mr. Cool DIY did not yet have multi-zone. I got one quote for 15K if I did all of the prep (slab, drilled access holes, did the line set covers), and another for 22K. Granted these were Mitsubishi units.. But honestly, this place I built completely out of pocket (foundation, frame, everything) over 6 years, no debt and everything was done as thriftily as possible. I have little reason to believe so far that this 36K compressor will not deliver what I expect, but I will let you know if that changes.
 

Ralphxj

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Joined
Mar 25, 2008
Messages
413
Location
NE Ohio
How many amps do these pull when running. Looking at probably an 18k or 24k in the future, but looking at shop power upgrade for now and want to make sure I have room to grow. Can someone check how many amps the 18k and 24k pull when running the AC?? Thanks.
 

Jakemedic

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Joined
Jul 26, 2013
Messages
721
Location
Cornfields of SE Iowa
How many amps do these pull when running. Looking at probably an 18k or 24k in the future, but looking at shop power upgrade for now and want to make sure I have room to grow. Can someone check how many amps the 18k and 24k pull when running the AC?? Thanks.

The 18k runs on 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp 240 breaker. Got the info off Ingrams website. Just waiting for the delivery now......
 

Browneye

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Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
311
Location
So-Cal
Pics attached. I need to dream up a way to enclose the lines running through the closet, but the setup works fine for the whole house. The other one I put into my place in MA (for sale BTW, in case anyone wants to move to the peoples republic of MA) is still working mint, going on 3 years (24K, single air handler for an entire ranch)

Box in with sheetrock.
Probly get by with a piece of plastic rain gutter, that's what I used for an exterior line cover:

005.jpg
 

Browneye

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Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
311
Location
So-Cal
And an update on my warranty replacement saga for 2 year old unit...

As mentioned previously, getting into the third season of cooling with our 2-ton unit, it wasn't blowing cold, and icing up, so a tech came out and charged it, tested and found a leak where the flex line meets the rigid section at the air handler.

It took 3 weeks to get a warranty replacement from Ingrams', that being due simply to a backlog of orders shipping out. It did finally arrive, a no-charge invoice for a new air handler, and I removed the old one and installed the new one.

It worked great but not cold enough. I was pretty sure some freon leaked out between the time the tech charged it and I determined I was getting a replacement - and so I turned of the gas valves at the compressor unit. Fortunately we had a solid week-plus of cooler weather so we didn't need AC.

Saturday my tech came back out and put his fancy gauge on it that shows all the pressures and temps, and that is how he determines freon level - temp drop from liquid line to air output, etc. Anyway, it was about half down on freon so with another pound of gas or so the thing is working stellar now. Output air temp was about 68 degrees, now at 54.

The only drawback for the DIY warranty claim is troubleshooting and diagnosing the problem, and then waiting for and doing replacements. This process took us about a month. So it's no quite like calling your HVAC contractor and they show up the next day and fix your AC unit. But we're happy nonetheless, and our house is a balmy 75 degrees on a 90 degree day.

All's well that ends well, eh?? :rocker:
 
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