MRCOOL DIY Mini Split, Seriously, I Think...

[alxmlr789]

IIRC I paid about hundred bucks more. Ingrams included shipping, no tax. That was before I had a Costco card.

You'll still have to go thru Ingrams for any tech support or warranty claims. They are the primary distribution arm for MrCool. From what I can gather, based on my research, the parent company is simply an importer and distributor for the brand. You buy enough units of anything from China you can have your own brand.

They are buying containers and bringing them into Miami.

Gotcha, i would have preferred to buy it through Ingrams due to the support, but theirs was 1800 shipped.

 

[Browneye]

$1689 Free shipping. They do charge sales tax now, I think most internet retailers are/have to.

And if you call them and ask them to get closer to the Coscto price they likely will drop some more off the price. That's what I did - Lowe's was advertising them and they matched the price.

 

[dlstech]

I wish they would start using a newer model with higher specifications .. it's a great idea.

It all comes down to "IF" you have someone local that will do the refrigerant hoop up -- if you do the cost is about the same and you end up with a unit in the low 20's SEER

Have you looked at the Pioneer units? They have a model that looks like MR Cool and also a higher efficency model, in the 20s for the SEER rating. I've had one for a few years now. They're a bit cheaper than MR Cool I believe but litterally look exactly the same, would've be surprised if they're made in the same Chinese factory.

It won't let me post links because I'm new but I have the Pioneer WYS018GMFI22RL 18k 20.8 SEER. It's $1,188 shipped right now.

 

[GRivera]

I'm looking at these now for a 30x40X12' with 12/2 scissor trusses. Can anyone advise if the 24K unit also requires 20 amp breaker, or higher? Are these best installed up near the ceiling (12 foot high). Center of garage wall?

As side note, Costco warranties most of their items for LIFE - minus computers, TVs, a couple of other items, so that is a huge factor when buying.

 

[alxmlr789]

I'm looking at these now for a 30x40X12' with 12/2 scissor trusses. Can anyone advise if the 24K unit also requires 20 amp breaker, or higher? Are these best installed up near the ceiling (2 foot high). Center of garage wall?

As side note, Costco warranties most of their items for LIFE - minus computers, TVs, a couple of other items, so that is a huge factor when buying.

So in my research i found the (24k) MCA to be 15 in the manual with “max fuse size” to be 25. Maybe someone in here with the 24k could chime In. When i called to ask tech support what the breaker size to be he said 30a lol. So I’m not really sure. I plan to run a 25a breaker and 10/2 wire on my 24k. Would love to use a 20a 12/2 as i have plenty of 12/2 wire left over.

I have a 35x30 x12 (standard truss) that i am going to run it on the back wall, 9–10 ft up

 

[MattT]

So in my research i found the (24k) MCA to be 15 in the manual with “max fuse size” to be 25. Maybe someone in here with the 24k could chime In. When i called to ask tech support what the breaker size to be he said 30a lol. So I’m not really sure. I plan to run a 25a breaker and 10/2 wire on my 24k. Would love to use a 20a 12/2 as i have plenty of 12/2 wire left over.

Use the MCA for wire sizing. So you'll be fine with 12 unless it's a very long run where volt drop comes into play.

If the manual calls for fuses you must use fuses. Run 25A breaker > 12/2 wire > fused disconnect.

 

[yeldogt]

Have you looked at the Pioneer units? They have a model that looks like MR Cool and also a higher efficency model, in the 20s for the SEER rating. I've had one for a few years now. They're a bit cheaper than MR Cool I believe but litterally look exactly the same, would've be surprised if they're made in the same Chinese factory.

It won't let me post links because I'm new but I have the Pioneer WYS018GMFI22RL 18k 20.8 SEER. It's $1,188 shipped right now.

Many of the units are the same -- just rebadged. The Japanese have experienced the same problem with China. Build a factory in China for distribution domestically -- next thing you know the factory down the street is making clones and now selling back in the home country and all you got was a few sales in China.

 

[Browneye]

Use the MCA for wire sizing. So you'll be fine with 12 unless it's a very long run where volt drop comes into play.

If the manual calls for fuses you must use fuses. Run 25A breaker > 12/2 wire > fused disconnect.

Mostly right...
AC is one of the few appliances you can run a 25a breaker with 12-2. The disconnect switch is required, but that it be fused/break is not - it's already fused/breakered at the panel.

10ga is fine as well. Remember, you're breakering the wiring - you want the breaker to trip before the wire overheats.

Fuse = breaker. Same thing. It blows/trips before the wire burns up.

30A is incorrect for 12-2. The 2-ton unit spec is for 20 or 25a. Remember, they are 220/240v - so two hot leads.

My daughter is a commercial electrician. Comes in handy once in awhile. She was very thorough explaining the process here for hooking mine up.

 

[MattT]

Fuse = breaker. Same thing. It blows/trips before the wire burns up.

No fuses and breakers are not the same. The manufacturer specifies fuses to protect the mini split not the wiring. And if the manufacturer specifies fuses then fuses must be used.

Hopefully you misunderstood what your daughter told you.

 

[yeldogt]

Yes ..fuse is different. The old .. breaker is to protect wires. Forgets that a given appliance also has a rating. With household items this is achieved with plugs -- you can't plug a toaster into a 30amp receptacle. With other items -- a fused disconnect protects all the downstream wires and equipment. Fuses have a different reaction time -- and cannot be early re-set

 

[Browneye]

No fuses and breakers are not the same. The manufacturer specifies fuses to protect the mini split not the wiring. And if the manufacturer specifies fuses then fuses must be used.

Hopefully you misunderstood what your daughter told you.

No misunderstanding. And I think you're confused.

Perhaps this article can clear it up for you:
https://www.ecomfort.com/stories/1361-What-You-Should-Know-About-Mini-Split-Wiring.html

"Disconnect Box: Fused vs Non-Fused disconnect box

You might be wondering, "Do I really need a disconnect?" All mini split systems require a dedicated circuit to supply power to the system.

A disconnect box is required by code to be installed near the outdoor unit and allows for a technician to shut off power to the system when performing any service or repairs.

Believe it or not, a non-fused disconnect box is preferred over fused. One reason is that the breaker in your service panel already provides the built-in protection in place of a fuse.

Another is that circuit breakers can be reset after they are tripped, while fuses must be replaced. Fuses can also corrode in the elements - rendering the system unsafe. Finally, fuses can be hard to find and most people aren't comfortable replacing them."

EDIT: BTW, if you are talking about the control wiring then yes, they are fused in the unit.
If the feed circuit is appropriately sized and breakered a fused disconnect is not needed - just a straight disconnect as long as it the correct breaker upstream.

 

[MattT]

No misunderstanding. And I think you're confused.

No I ain't confused. Maybe page two at the following link will help. And you might want to forward the link to your sources.

https://www.mikeholt.com/instructor2/img/product/pdf/11NEC101-1076-sample.pdf

 

[Browneye]

No I ain't confused. Maybe page two at the following link will help. And you might want to forward the link to your sources.

https://www.mikeholt.com/instructor2/img/product/pdf/11NEC101-1076-sample.pdf

Well, yes, NEC code requires a fuse somewhere inline if the plate mentions only a fuse. So technically yes. However if I'm not mistaken these units have an overload fuse on the board, for the motor, and that an unfused disconnect with properly breaker'd feed is common.

I'm not an electrician, perhaps you are. Either way they get hooked up both ways, and as long as the circuit is protected and a disconnect switch at the unit is provided no inspector is going to balk. But half the installs could well be done wrong, I get that.

Here's an interesting thread on the same subject right here on GJ:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334111&showall=1

 

[USAFpj]

Gents- I wanted to throw out there, that I spend (have spent) 20 years dealing with the heat and cold of Afghanistan, Jordan, Iraq, Kuwait, and Africa.

This is not specifically directed at the 'Mr. Cool' unit, but even the cheapest of Mini Splits is what we rely on for climate control. Zero issues with proper yearly maintenance, and the only choice for these climates.

I will be getting one for my shop, and am looking for recommendations on size as well: 30x50x14, with a 19ft peak. Maybe R3? insulation throughout, (2) insulated 12x10 doors, steel man door, and a 2x8 ft clear panel. The current insulation does great, but while gone, I would love something to keep the humidity at bay, aside from my dehumidifier. May I ask what size would be considered not too small, but not too large?

 

[alxmlr789]

Gents- I wanted to throw out there, that I spend (have spent) 20 years dealing with the heat and cold of Afghanistan, Jordan, Iraq, Kuwait, and Africa.

This is not specifically directed at the 'Mr. Cool' unit, but even the cheapest of Mini Splits is what we rely on for climate control. Zero issues with proper yearly maintenance, and the only choice for these climates.

I will be getting one for my shop, and am looking for recommendations on size as well: 30x50x14, with a 19ft peak. Maybe R3? insulation throughout, (2) insulated 12x10 doors, steel man door, and a 2x8 ft clear panel. The current insulation does great, but while gone, I would love something to keep the humidity at bay, aside from my dehumidifier. May I ask what size would be considered not too small, but not too large?

I’d say at least a 36k, maybe 2 24’s. I’m at 35x30x12 and i ordered the 24k.

 

[Fueler]

I went with a 36 on my 40x40x12 Pbarn and glad of it. Even does a decent job of heating up to a point.

 

[redi]

I've read this thread with interest, thanks.

I've gotten a couple of bids to install a 2-ton Daikin mini-split in my 850 sq ft insulated garage. Basically systems I look to be able to buy from the online sites for $1300 or $1700 depending on SEER... and then $3200 to install them (all a bundled price bid).

Is there any appreciable difference between say a Daikin unit and a 2-ton MrCool (Costco) unit in operation or reliability? Sure, I would really need some helping hands getting it installed, but it seems for a net $2k+ savings there would have to be a *huge* difference in quality or performance.

Thanks for any data.

 

[SALIV8]

I don't think there is a huge difference, but I would suspect the Mr Cool may have less of a warranty by a couple years.

The coils may be treated differently, different parts internally, but both work. Daiken has a reputation of being a market leader with quality products.

That being said, I installed a couple Gree brand systems myself and just had a local tech do the final line set connections and pump down/leak check/release and he charged me by the hour. You should be able to find someone also like I did if you like that idea. That gave me the manufacturers warranty and also got me Comed rebates.

I say def do it yourself and save a ton of money. It's not rocket science but a little intimidating at first.

 

[jjrbus]

With Daikin you will have no warranty even if installed by a tech. Says no warranty with online sales. Likely illegal in many areas but doubt it wold be worth getting a lawyer.

As far as quality goes it is my understanding that the top 3 including Daikin have thicker copper in the coils among other things.

 

[yeldogt]

I've read this thread with interest, thanks.

I've gotten a couple of bids to install a 2-ton Daikin mini-split in my 850 sq ft insulated garage. Basically systems I look to be able to buy from the online sites for $1300 or $1700 depending on SEER... and then $3200 to install them (all a bundled price bid).

Is there any appreciable difference between say a Daikin unit and a 2-ton MrCool (Costco) unit in operation or reliability? Sure, I would really need some helping hands getting it installed, but it seems for a net $2k+ savings there would have to be a *huge* difference in quality or performance.

Thanks for any data.

Daikin is a huge player ... my guess is there is a quality difference -- performance difference and operational difference. All favoring Daikin. But -- "appreciable" for a garage ... Nope. Obviously -- check the specifications to make sure it will do what you want if you need it for heat. Otherwise .. in some ways the DIY units with the recharged lines are a better way to go because they have a warranty -- the other units that require a "licensed" installer .. often don't come with a warranty when installed DIY.

There are differences with the better units -- not just quality .. but operation as well. That changes the formula IMO when putting one inside a home.

One thing with Daikin/ goodman --- they have a very good warranty .... some come with full 10 year including warranty (from the company) ... so that's something to think about.

In a home you may want a perfect cosmetic install -- in a garage this is not as important.

I'm leaning towards getting one from Costco ... the small SEER penalty is never going to be noticeable even with my .20KW electric. I basically want to maintain a high 70's temp and drop it down a bit when I'm out in the shop.

Most of the 24k units are high 3k almost 4k around me.

 

[alxmlr789]

Costco delivered mine today. Well, Cevas. Took about 10 days for delivery, insulation this weekend and will be installing next week.

 

[southernfriedcj]

I just read all 461 posts in this thread and have a few questions.

Does anyone want to throw out a unit sizing estimate for my new shop?

The online estimator that was linked in this thread said 11,000 BTU cooling and 23,000 BTU cooling. Unless I miss understood something(12,000 BTU's =1 ton) that estimator is way off.

My shop will be 40' x 67' with 13' high flat ceilings. Uninsulated slab on grade. 2x6 framing 12"OC with R19 batts and R30 blown in the attic. The roof is silver(Galvalume) metal. It will have five 10'x12' insulated bay doors that face North. It will have five 30/60 double pane Low E windows on the South side. Fiber cement siding will be painted light grey. One fiberglass insulated man door on the east side.

I'm thinking either three 18,000 BTU units or possibly three 24,000 BTU units.

My main concern is cooling. It hit 91 today in Athens, GA and they are calling for 99 next week. We also get swamp like humidity.

I'm looking at this unit:https://www.sylvane.com/mrcool-adva...MIppuS7bCr4gIVC-DICh1L2g_rEAkYASABEgIcqPD_BwE

The MRCOOL A-24-HP-230B requires professional installation but all of the materials necessary are included with the unit. The 16-foot installation kit has copper tubing, control wire, 6-foot drain hose, and wall sleeve.

The quote above states "all materials included". I'll have to email Sylvane and ask if that includes refrigerant.

That's a 2 ton unit for $1,074. Free shipping no tax.

I'll have my hvac guy charge the units and shorten the line set after I mount them.

The warranty is short:

2-Year Limited Parts Warranty, 1-Year Limited Compressor Warranty

How high off of the floor should the indoor unit be mounted on a 13" high wall?

Will this unit blow air all the way across a 40' wide shop or will I need a "helper" fan?

This is new construction so I plan on having the linesets in the wall and I'll mount the outdoor unit on a pedestal 7' above grade just to have them out of the way.

Thanks!

 

[Fueler]

Southern Fried,
Bad Humidity here also when it gets around to it.
I used a 36 in my 40x40 and glad I did.
I stay comfy with machines running all day.
I am not as well insulated as you though.
I also use a couple of ceiling fans, usually on low in the winter and med in the summer.
That helps give the feeling of constant air change.

If I ever do another building, perhaps a bit larger I would put a 36 on opposite sides but not in line with each other. Create kind of a swirl air pattern that way.

My inside unit is at the 8 foot level. No need to cool anything higher than what we work in.

Your outside unit height sounds a bit much.
Make it easy to service if need be.
I set mine at tailgate height for easy installation and removal if needed.

INside unit: Make sure you have easy access to it for monthly filter cleaning.

 

[Browneye]

Southern Fried,
Bad Humidity here also when it gets around to it.
I used a 36 in my 40x40 and glad I did.
I stay comfy with machines running all day.
I am not as well insulated as you though.
I also use a couple of ceiling fans, usually on low in the winter and med in the summer.
That helps give the feeling of constant air change.

If I ever do another building, perhaps a bit larger I would put a 36 on opposite sides but not in line with each other. Create kind of a swirl air pattern that way.

My inside unit is at the 8 foot level. No need to cool anything higher than what we work in.

Your outside unit height sounds a bit much.
Make it easy to service if need be.
I set mine at tailgate height for easy installation and removal if needed.

INside unit: Make sure you have easy access to it for monthly filter cleaning.

^^This.

My units are in the house, with ceilings that are about 18'. If I turn the unit from cooling or heating to 'fan', the unit displays the room temp - it is ALWAYS higher up there than at eye level. So it's been said you shoot for layering when cooling a high volume area, or one with high ceilings. Stirring up a lot of air generally does not produce the desired results either. So mount your air handlers at 8' and let them cool where YOU are, not the ceiling.

I never found the calculators to be very valuable. The don't take into consideration really hot days when we REALLY need the extra cooling, and they assume it's a steady running when most need quick cool down of their space when it's hot. So yeah, if you leave them running and they just have to maintain, that's a different scenario from when you walk into a room or building and it's 90 and you want it 75.

40x67 is a huge shop, plenty of length, so a couple of head units makes a lot of sense. But I think 3 is overkill. If it were me I would install two of the 2 or 3 ton units, but all that open space is not something I could guess at. I'd have at least a couple of pro's look at it and see what they say.

I do not believe there's much difference in how these units are built, component-wise, they all come from China. The compressors all seem to be the same. Some are different, perhaps Mitsubishi, even Daikin. I found the latter to also have a pretty good reputation, and plenty of dealers/HVAC installers hawking them.

Minisplits in general are slow to be adopted here in the US for the simple fact that the HVAC industry is a mature highly profitable one that features central air systems with complicated ducting which equals high profit dollars. You simply can't send a truck out with a couple of guys to install a mini-split and make it profitable. So they lie about what they are to protect their business. And the few they do sell they have to charge an arm and a leg to make it pay well enough to be worth doing. I get it, I just don't want to be part of it - they can make their money on people that simply cannot do anything for themselves.

The warranty thing was a biggie for me, and really what cinched the deal. With Ingrams backing them up, if you have a component failure, you just take that part of it out and send it to them and replace it. With the way they're configured it is pretty simple plug-and-play. I saved enough doing them myself that I could buy them three times for the HVAC pro's price. My bet is I'll be money-ahead for the duration. I could strip them out and completely replace them two more times, warranty or not. The last thing I want to do is fight with a manufacturer or distributor about covering a product failure cuz I did it myself. The DIY is made for this application.

 

[HotrodHR]

Gents- I wanted to throw out there, that I spend (have spent) 20 years dealing with the heat and cold of Afghanistan, Jordan, Iraq, Kuwait, and Africa.

This is not specifically directed at the 'Mr. Cool' unit, but even the cheapest of Mini Splits is what we rely on for climate control. Zero issues with proper yearly maintenance, and the only choice for these climates.

I will be getting one for my shop, and am looking for recommendations on size as well: 30x50x14, with a 19ft peak. Maybe R3? insulation throughout, (2) insulated 12x10 doors, steel man door, and a 2x8 ft clear panel. The current insulation does great, but while gone, I would love something to keep the humidity at bay, aside from my dehumidifier. May I ask what size would be considered not too small, but not too large?

Just a few suggestions... Do it yourself with a MrCool unit. I'm guessing you're a veteran, so for a quick 10% discount order your unit from Lowes, and yes the will apply the discount even to online orders. You could install one large unit (probably 36k) or two smaller units, one at each end of your building.

If this was my building the first thing I would do is install a ceiling and blow in insulation in the new attic. It looks like your trusses arE at least 8 feet apart and definitely not "attic trusses" so you won't be storing anything up there. You could use sheetrock or metal roofing/siding or corrigated material. Personally I would use metal, comes painted and will go up faster. Sheetrock would probably require adding cross bracing to help support sheets, etc.

I'd also consider adding insulation and finishing the walls. The more insulation the better...

 

[jjrbus]

Bit off topic, how to get 10% VA discount online?

I diy 3 DAikin mini's about a year ago, I have been diligent about cleaning filters and just noticed the blower wheel is filthy, caked with something. The filters ****.

The online info on how to thoroughly clean a mini is all over the place from bags to hang on wall and wash to complete disassembly to clean, and I find nothing from the manufacturers on it. Maybe it is me but take a look at cleaning minis, not just the filter but the coils and blower wheel.

I had the Daikin dealer come to my house, Curly and Moe were busy that day, Larry showed up with a Harbor Freight vacuum pump, leaky gauges, no flair tool absolutely pathetic.

If you end up with excess lineset a serpentine install needs to be done to avoid oil traps in the lines according to the pro's. Good luck.

 

[yeldogt]

FYI --- don't place the units up high .. just because you can. Typically with a 8' ceiling the bottoms fall under 7' .. there is no benefit to typing to cool the air above your head. Also, the more you disturb the air up high the more cooling required.

Ceiling fans don't help with cooling / high ceilings and AC

 

[Browneye]

Bit off topic, how to get 10% VA discount online?

I diy 3 DAikin mini's about a year ago, I have been diligent about cleaning filters and just noticed the blower wheel is filthy, caked with something. The filters ****.

The online info on how to thoroughly clean a mini is all over the place from bags to hang on wall and wash to complete disassembly to clean, and I find nothing from the manufacturers on it. Maybe it is me but take a look at cleaning minis, not just the filter but the coils and blower wheel.

I had the Daikin dealer come to my house, Curly and Moe were busy that day, Larry showed up with a Harbor Freight vacuum pump, leaky gauges, no flair tool absolutely pathetic.

If you end up with excess lineset a serpentine install needs to be done to avoid oil traps in the lines according to the pro's. Good luck.

Isn't that sad? And why I loath to call a 'professional' for anything. I'm likely the only Mercedes Benz owner that changes his own oil. LOL

And look how distraught they get if you even question what they're doing, why, THEY are the pro's, right??

I had a HVAC corporate president come to my house for a quote on a central system replacement from a RFQ through Lowe's. He insulted our home, said they don't do 'small jobs', and that the least expensive system they could possibly install is their 'basic package' that starts at $14,500.

Then the guy from Home Depot showed up, said we were 'lucky it was him' because he's 'usually doing high end jobs for rich people', telling us how he was a retired cop and did this for fun now. Proceeded to layout this complicated setup with new ducting and registers, a whole system, and a 10% discount just because and so it's only $18,000. And I better sign on now or I might not be able to get in before the summer rush. Dear god.
Then I went and found him on FB where he was boasting about making five grand one day selling AC units, and what a gods gift to women that he was. Pictures and everything. He wasted almost two hours of our lives that we'll NEVER get back. LOL

No, this industry is filled to the brim with rip-off people and incompetent installers. I got about 8 quotes and even so half of them were from really great people genuinely interested in providing good product and service. Would have bought from any of them. But they were all around the ten-grand figure. I installed two complete mini-split systems for about $2500 and we have been delighted. This was about a year ago now. Both units are still spotless clean inside - hardly a spec of dust on the filters. With the house mostly closed up now we have a fraction of the dirt and dust we used to get with the windows and doors open all the time. It's way more comfortable too.

 

[jjrbus]

Isn't that sad? And why I loath to call a 'professional' for anything. I'm likely the only Mercedes Benz owner that changes his own oil. LOL

And look how distraught they get if you even question what they're doing, why, THEY are the pro's, right??

I had a HVAC corporate president come to my house for a quote on a central system replacement from a RFQ through Lowe's. He insulted our home, said they don't do 'small jobs', and that the least expensive system they could possibly install is their 'basic package' that starts at $14,500.

Then the guy from Home Depot showed up, said we were 'lucky it was him' because he's 'usually doing high end jobs for rich people', telling us how he was a retired cop and did this for fun now. Proceeded to layout this complicated setup with new ducting and registers, a whole system, and a 10% discount just because and so it's only $18,000. And I better sign on now or I might not be able to get in before the summer rush. Dear god.
Then I went and found him on FB where he was boasting about making five grand one day selling AC units, and what a gods gift to women that he was. Pictures and everything. He wasted almost two hours of our lives that we'll NEVER get back. LOL

No, this industry is filled to the brim with rip-off people and incompetent installers. I got about 8 quotes and even so half of them were from really great people genuinely interested in providing good product and service. Would have bought from any of them. But they were all around the ten-grand figure. I installed two complete mini-split systems for about $2500 and we have been delighted. This was about a year ago now. Both units are still spotless clean inside - hardly a spec of dust on the filters. With the house mostly closed up now we have a fraction of the dirt and dust we used to get with the windows and doors open all the time. It's way more comfortable too.

Several years ago I had an old system, later we figured out it was 27 years old! Anyway called to get some estimates and guy shows up in a brand spanking new Ford King Ranch dually diesel. Pokes around a little and says has to wait for his kid to check the attic. I'm thinking don't waste your time but curious what they have to say. As we wait he is trying to convince me not to get a building permit as I will be paying tax's on it for 20 years and it is a waste of my money.

Kid shows up, brand new Ford King Ranch Dually diesel with the custom wheels. Wheels were probably $4000! Now I am not against people doing well in life. But not on my dollar.

I got 13 THIRTEEN estimates, 11 bozo's I called them drive by estimates and 2 I could have dealt with, but one was so high he obviously did not want the job.

My coils are as clean as the day they were installed, it is the blower wheel that is loaded with ****.

 

[Browneye]

My original HVAC system was installed when the house was new in 1971. We've been there 25 years. The AC condenser went out about 6 years ago - that's when we did our first round of estimates and decided for $6-$8 grand at that time we could do without.

The old LNG furnace still worked great. I've kept the blower motor bearings lubed and replaced the thermister a time or two, cleaned out the burners. It worked pretty well. We only need heat about 3 months of the year.

Fast forward to last year...wife is working from home so we put a window air unit in the back office where she was working which also worked pretty well keeping our bedroom cooled off - at least livable. The rest of the house cooked if it got over 90 which it doesn't do very often in southern-cal if you're within 12-15 miles of the coast. But often enough that we decided to look into a whole new HVAC system again.

After all the shinanigans and learning about mini-splits, I installed a 2-ton in the main living area of the house, and we liked it so well we got one for the master bedroom which now also cooled the back office, so we junked the window unit.

One HVAC contractor that was going to install a Daikin 2-ton split for $4500, said he wouldn't mess with the old air handler in the old furnace - just run it. One Saturday I was bored so I decided to tear into it. I had removed the old compressor unit and the lineset, and wanted that air handler out of the furnace. After all, 40+ years running it had to be dirty, right? No way to access it without removing it from the top of the old up-draft furnace.

Dear god that thing was plugged. I was able to remove the sheet metal box housing it was in and get the whole thing out. I rebuilt the box, reinsulated it, reinstalled it, and WHOA - that thing really works great now. And yes, the old air handler assembly was so caked with dirt I'm not sure how it could pass any air. So our old gas furnace really kicks out the heat now. Total cost: $00

Well actually, I had to order out a new thermister - thermo-couple. When I put it all back together it wouldn't fire - the pilot light wouldn't stay lit. $12 later it all worked perfect again.

 

[jjrbus]

 

[Git]

Lowes Military Discount Sign Up
https://www.lowes.com/mylowes/register?context=military

Even with the discount, Costco has better prices (I am pretty sure they are the same model, but you probably need to actually call Costco to verify)

 

[jjrbus]

Thank you very much!

 

[redi]

I got 13 THIRTEEN estimates, 11 bozo's I called them drive by estimates and 2 I could have dealt with, but one was so high he obviously did not want the job.

It's beyond belief sometimes. Another bid for a 24K Mitsubishi install (outside and inside unit essentially on either side of an outside wall... $6400. Bid creation time 2 minutes on a cell phone.

 

[Browneye]

The higher end Mits units are really nice, at least have a really nice reputation. Energy efficient, long warranty - up to 10 years or more from the installing agency. And from what I can gather they may still be one of the very few not made in China, perhaps Japan or Singapore.
And they do cost more - seems like an average mits 2-ton split is nearly $3000. Just for the hardware. And installer will want at least a couple of grand to send out a truck and a guy or two for the day, even though realistically it's a half-day job, depending.

So that's why you got the quote. He would MUCH rather sell you a central system for $15K. There is WAY more money in that for THEM.

My quotes for the same unit were $5500. So you're in good company.

 

[koenbro]

I got a 2-ton Mitsu installed in my Arizona 3-car garage about 5 years ago. About 5 grand installed with a 10 or 12 years warranty. Sold the house, had the same company transfer it into my new garage so the warranty continues.

Mini splits are amazing: quiet, efficient, reliable. If i were building a new house there is precisely zero chance i would put in a legacy HVAC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jjrbus]

I have 3 zones to cool, west end of house is mater bedroom, center of house is an open living, dining and kitchen and then a bed/office on east end of house.

Sun blares on east end in morning, thermostat is in living area so room was always too warm, computer and that do not help.

West end of house gets blasted with sun in afternoon, thermostat is not picking up either rooms.

Living area is neutral with thermostat so stays about the same. No reasonable central air system will keep the house an even temp.

So far the minis are working out and the electric bills are much lower than before with more comfort.

Now the but and it is a big BUT one service call will quickly eat any electrical savings.

 

[Browneye]

What was also frustrating for me in my exploration of the HVAC world and then narrowing it down to mini-splits, is how the legacy installers poo-poo them. "Oh, you don't want one of those things, they are too unreliable." Or if they can't snow you from that stance then, "Oh, women hate the look of those things hanging on the wall."
Oh, really? Like any woman would even notice the air handler. Dear god.

No, it doesn't dovetail well with their business model and they're way too cheap, so they can't be any good. LOL

The thing that piqued my interest were the explanations of how these are seen all over the world. You go to a restaurant or hotel in Bangkok, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Viet Nam, or Argentina, you see a mini split doing the cooling work. Millions of them installed around the world. If they didn't work they wouldn't be utilized. Installation costs in a third-world country is about $50. So, tell us why it costs $2000 to install one in America.

My son moved into a really nice apartment complex in SunnyVale, the whole building remodeled, and every apartment has a mini-split on the patio deck, two heads, one in the master and one in the main living area. Whomever got that contract must have made a pretty penny - there are at least a couple of hundred units. Soooo efficient.

 

[jjrbus]

Since installing my minis I have been watching AC posts on a couple forums. Thinking it would be a good way to learn DIY mini repair. I also think that Mr Cool being so popular will have the most input.

In well over a year I have seen almost no how to fix a mini posts. The few I have seen were mostly where the installation issues. Are they that reliable, do people throw them out or call professionals if they have an issue? Interestng.

 

[Fixin'Stuff]

I've gotten a couple of bids to install a 2-ton Daikin mini-split in my 850 sq ft insulated garage. Basically systems I look to be able to buy from the online sites for $1300 or $1700 depending on SEER... and then $3200 to install them (all a bundled price bid).

Is that $3,200 installed, or $3,200 just for labor? Unless there is a LOT of work that needs to be done to get power to the outside unit, you're gonna be pissed when you see how little work it takes to install a mini-split. Took me longer to go pickup a disconnect box and power whip at Lowes Depot than to set and install the mini-split.