Multi meter test leads

[signcrafter]

Very nice, but out of the budget of most DIYers !

How do you figure 200 bucks is "out of the budget of most DIYers?"

Most shops charge 100 bucks an hour give or take. Each electrical issue is a minimum of an hour charge. So with 1 or maybe 2 electrical issues that kit is more then paid for. Same logic when you posted in the scan tool thread. Yes a scan tool is a major investment for a DIYer but it's a needed tool now a days and will pay for itself over time. Just got a rim clamp for DIY use. It will pay for itself in a short time by me saving money and also doing work for family and friends.

I don't even want to guess what I have in tools but between auto and construction/wood working tools it probably would be close to the price of a new house. All these tools are paid for and justified because they got the needed work done instead of hiring it out and I have the tools now to use whenever.

This isn't the days of a cheap craftsman socket set is all you need to fix cars anymore.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

I think I'm interested in doing a pieced together kit. Who makes good quality leads that are interchangeable with accessories? I think I want back probe pins, alligator clips and probe tips to start. I also have the load pro that I use.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Shielded 6 footers, if you care about shielding. Banana jacks for meter usage. I can tell you they're high quality.

https://www.aeswave.com/ST3-Shielded-Test-Leads-p9129.html



Gators - https://www.aeswave.com/Alligator-Clip-Set-p8935.html



This is basically the best deal around for back probes. Includes extension leads with gators if you want to force power/ground - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9C3RSU/?tag=atomicindus08-20


I buy the generic red/black backprobes on amazon as well, from whoever is selling them cheapest. I'm pretty rough on back-probes. Grab some T-pins from the walmart sowing section as well.



I have a few leads from them, silicone. They're pretty gummy. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9C3RSU/?tag=atomicindus08-20





Don't go crazy buying super expensive leads. When they get caught in a door, or sucked into a serp-belt, you'll cry. They're a consumable like anything else. A set of 3 footers for normal use, 10 footers for when you need them, and a backup pair.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

How do you figure 200 bucks is "out of the budget of most DIYers?"

Most shops charge 100 bucks an hour give or take. Each electrical issue is a minimum of an hour charge. So with 1 or maybe 2 electrical issues that kit is more then paid for. Same logic when you posted in the scan tool thread. Yes a scan tool is a major investment for a DIYer but it's a needed tool now a days and will pay for itself over time. Just got a rim clamp for DIY use. It will pay for itself in a short time by me saving money and also doing work for family and friends.

I don't even want to guess what I have in tools but between auto and construction/wood working tools it probably would be close to the price of a new house. All these tools are paid for and justified because they got the needed work done instead of hiring it out and I have the tools now to use whenever.

This isn't the days of a cheap craftsman socket set is all you need to fix cars anymore.

Cute, isn't it? Hour of diag is $100. Nuke a critical connector with an aggressive front probe, and it'll cost more than that kit to fix at the dealer; unless they can get a pigtail separate. And people wonder why mechanics/shops charge so much? I always chuckle when people act like spending $100 is some crazy number. Especially to diagnose/fix a car which cost 20k+ when new.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

T-pins I have. That's what I've been using with gator clips that slide onto the probes but they can be finicky and I don't like how sharp they are.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Shielded 6 footers, if you care about shielding. Banana jacks for meter usage. I can tell you they're high quality.

https://www.aeswave.com/ST3-Shielded-Test-Leads-p9129.html



Gators - https://www.aeswave.com/Alligator-Clip-Set-p8935.html



This is basically the best deal around for back probes. Includes extension leads with gators if you want to force power/ground - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9C3RSU/?tag=atomicindus08-20


I buy the generic red/black backprobes on amazon as well, from whoever is selling them cheapest. I'm pretty rough on back-probes. Grab some T-pins from the walmart sowing section as well.



I have a few leads from them, silicone. They're pretty gummy. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9C3RSU/?tag=atomicindus08-20





Don't go crazy buying super expensive leads. When they get caught in a door, or sucked into a serp-belt, you'll cry. They're a consumable like anything else. A set of 3 footers for normal use, 10 footers for when you need them, and a backup pair.

Your Amazon links don't work? For some reason I can't ever get Amazon links (tapatalk).

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Tool Aid SG 23500 Back Probe Kit

Search amazon for - ast labs test lead - various options.

 

[FigureItOut]

Or just don't stab wires in the first place. Use an amp clamp if you're that uninterested in tapping in correctly. IMO piercing insulation is the definition of "hack" work. I've fixed so many wires that "self healed" years before.

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If you want to be a true test lead boss.

https://www.aeswave.com/uTest-Advanced-Terminal-Test-Kit-p9715.html

I don't think you're supposed to post links to **** sites, ha ha. I've glanced at that kit a few times while browsing AES Wave, but never took a good look until now, and I think it's going to have to go on the must-have list.

 

[pstemari]

...

Perfect example. The 4 things on the left between the regular probes & alligators are filler you'll likely never use.

The mini hooks? Those are extremely useful for electronics work. You can get in and clamp onto tiny little wires or the leg of an IC very easily. For automotive work, they might not be as useful. They also come in smaller versions for surface mount work, but those get very expensive.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I don't think you're supposed to post links to **** sites, ha ha. I've glanced at that kit a few times while browsing AES Wave, but never took a good look until now, and I think it's going to have to go on the must-have list.

It's a must have, IMO. Micro probes for ECU connectors, variable resistor means easy sweep tests of coolant temp sensors and similar. Unplug you sensor, spin the dial, watch the scan tool or gauge move. Wiring good, replace sensor. Or the pin outs and a "Y" branch, to duplicate circuits. No output from that wheel speed sensor? Duplicate the output from another wheel, and feed it into the problem sensor pigtail. Wiring check easy as spinning a wheel. Fuse taps are much safer than the fused jump wire with raw terminals, the smallest size will just squeeze into the newest "micro" fuse slots, half engaged anyways.

It's a lot more useful than you'd imagine it to even be. I'm lazier than I am cheap, although I can be damn cheap.

Easy tests, minimal - if ANY - disassembly, bypass anything and everything. It's something that makes it easier to make the right call, the first time, 100%, with minimal effort.

 

[MattT]

The mini hooks? Those are extremely useful for electronics work. You can get in and clamp onto tiny little wires or the leg of an IC very easily. For automotive work, they might not be as useful. They also come in smaller versions for surface mount work, but those get very expensive.

Correct, I was referring to the mini hooks & the roach clip things. And yes I know the hooks are good for electronics work. The roach clips I don't think are good for anything besides the obvious

That kit is being sold as a "Deluxe Automotive Set". It's actually a pretty basic automotive kit plus the aforementioned filler.

 

[FigureItOut]

It's a must have, IMO. Micro probes for ECU connectors, variable resistor means easy sweep tests of coolant temp sensors and similar. Unplug you sensor, spin the dial, watch the scan tool or gauge move. Wiring good, replace sensor. Or the pin outs and a "Y" branch, to duplicate circuits. No output from that wheel speed sensor? Duplicate the output from another wheel, and feed it into the problem sensor pigtail. Wiring check easy as spinning a wheel. Fuse taps are much safer than the fused jump wire with raw terminals, the smallest size will just squeeze into the newest "micro" fuse slots, half engaged anyways.



It's a lot more useful than you'd imagine it to even be. I'm lazier than I am cheap, although I can be damn cheap.



Easy tests, minimal - if ANY - disassembly, bypass anything and everything. It's something that makes it easier to make the right call, the first time, 100%, with minimal effort.

I was wondering about the variable resistor, what is it's current rating? I'd love to be able to use it somewhat like load-pro leads, but with a variable load rather than the 0.5 load built into the load pro leads.

 

[pstemari]

.... The roach clips I don't think are good for anything besides the obvious.

Those can reach behind a panel and clip to the lugs on a switch, although they can be defeated by fully insulated quick disconnects. The alligator clips in that kit look too big and clunky to reach into tight spots.

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[Wrench97]

The clips work great on open posts like batteries, alternators, starters, using for a ground clip, etc.

The variable resistor is low amp, I use it for checking dash gauges like inline from a fuel gauge to ground.

This is one of my favorite purchases in the last couple of years.

 

[Tallpilot]

I don't think you're supposed to post links to **** sites, ha ha. I've glanced at that kit a few times while browsing AES Wave, but never took a good look until now, and I think it's going to have to go on the must-have list.

It really is a must have and honestly far cheaper than the scope or scan tool you are using it with. As 2ndgearrubber pointed out it is also cheaper than the modules you are diagnosing with it and probably cheaper than your wasted labor replacing or repairing a connector damaged from over aggressive probing.