Multiple ArmorSeal 1000 questions,

[SKINNER]

I've recently purchased a new home and would like to epoxy the virgin concrete before messing it up. I do a lot of metal fabrication, welding, etc. and feel the ArmorSeal 1000 will stand up best. However, I have multiple questions:

--Can ArmorSeal be tinted, if so, what colors?

--I'll be coating a 2 1/2 car garage (roughly 400-450 sq.ft), will I need to do 2 coats (4 gallons) or will 1 coat work (2 gallons)?

--While the garage floor is brand new and never been parked on, the builder has some sort of sealer down, will acid etching be sufficient for removing this?

--Another stall and a half is going to be added in the next 6-12 months, will I have any trouble applying ArmorSeal to the addition? (color matching, peeling, overlap, etc.)

Thanks in Advance!!

 

[OldCarGuy]

ArmorSeal 1000 HS answered questions...

ArmorSeal 100 HS comes in clear and six premixed colors: Haze Gray, Deck Gray, Sandtone, Tile Red, Safety Yellow, and White. The clear can be custom colored at the store; but somewhat limited shades. Because the colorant may effect the product’s performance. Sherwin William’s recommend that you choose one of their standard colors for best results.

I would recommend two coats for best results instead of one.

The two approved methods for floor preporation is either acid etching or shot blasting. I have used both over the years and would recommend shot blasting.

If you use one of Sherwin William’s standard colors, you will not have any color matching problems on your addition. And I’m sure a custom color would be off some.

 

[bmwpower]

OldCarGuy has the all right answers, but I'll add a few things...

If there is a sealer currently on the concrete, you will have to remove the sealer prior to coating the floor. Best way is to sand, grind or shot blast the concrete sealer off. Make sure all of the sealer is removed (especially if it seeped into the concrete a bit) before coating. DON'T let the contractor seal the new addition.

Once the new addition is up, wait at least 1 month before coating the new floor.

 

[OldCarGuy]

Thanks BMWPower

BMW mentioned one of the most important keys in epoxy coating preparation. Making sure that there is no sealer or curing agents left on the floor before coating. It’s a catch 22, at least from what I understand, new cement needs this curing agent to limit it from spalling. And I believe that most professions recommend it. And shot blasting is the only sure way to remove it. If any traces are left, the epoxy is more apt to peal off.

Sherwin William’s ArmorSeal 1000HS color pallet. Please note that the colors don’t appear very well. The “Safety Yellow” is actually bright Yellow. The other colors are closer. Your local store will have a color pallet.

Sherwin William’s other epoxies have a lot more of color choices.

 

[GearHead_1]

Now if you were asking UCoatIt questions, I would jump in here but....

 

[OldCarGuy]

Now if you were asking UCoatIt questions, I would jump in here but....

I’m sure that UCoatIt produces just as good a product as Sherwin Williams. However I chose to deal with a place that is close to home so I can get my hands on a representative. Plus I have had experience with their products and dealt with them for nearly 40 years. Nonetheless I still am waiting for some long overdue answers from them about the problems I had using ArmorSeal.

Please chine in with any comments you have. Both products are similar and require the same preparation. Or do they?

 

[ponjohn]

How did you find a contractor that does shot blast?

What acid etching formula is recommended?

john

 

[OldCarGuy]

How did you find a contractor that does shot blast?

What acid etching formula is recommended?

john

I rented the shot blasting equipment and finished the floor myself. Link to my writeup.. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2230http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2230

Annswers can be found by searching this section and here... Link to ArmorSeal 1000HS service bulletin

HomeProFloors is one place to go for a turnkey epoxy floor. But let me warn you, professional pricing is not for the faint at heart. The price I was quoted for 3,500 square feet was over $12,000.00! A friend and I did all the work and the total material, supply, and rental was around $2,500.00. And even with the rework I had spent less than 100 man-hours. Not a bad hourly rate I’d say. And the work was a heck of a lot easier than dry walling.

 

[ponjohn]

Just got a quote from Home pro- 3500 for my 1200 sf space.

Thanks for the link and the info.

John

 

[Darren M.]

Reviving this older thread to ask..... Does this stand up to slag and other welding, cutting, grinding harshness? Also, OldCarGuy, now that the site has moved could you update your link?
Thanks

 

[mike944]

No it doesn't hold up to welding slag. I have the armorseal 1000HS, and i've got an area where i was a little too close to the floor with my old flux-cored mig machine (which throws a lot of slag) and now i have about 50 little tiny burn spots in a 2' circle.

It holds up well to just about everything else i've thrown at it though. I'm very happy with it.

I don't think ANY epoxy floor will hold up to welding slag.
________
Harley-Davidson FL

 

[Darren M.]

Such is the nature of the beast, as I'm finding out. Perhaps a designated welding area would be worth while. However, what to do about the floor in that area?

 

[OldCarGuy]

Reviving this older thread to ask Also, OldCarGuy, now that the site has moved could you update your link?
Thanks

Progress on my garages has been slow. These last few months I have been dividing my time between working on my garages with remodeling the house and yard work. A quick rundown of my progress as follows:

House: I finished off 1,400 square feet of the basement. Ran heater ducts to add heat and A/C to a 20’x20’ sunroom that was a three-season room. Patched drywall in the living room walls from the two HVAC duck lines, and repainted walls. Tore up carpet and padding on floor and readied for installing 540 square feet of solid ¾” thick pre-finished oak flooring. I own an air nailer and with any luck I’ll finish it this weekend. I just finished a 18’x18’ raised deck off the family room with built in seating and table. Along with adding a roof off to one side to cover the walkout basement steps. Created flower beds around the rear of the house and spread 20 yards of topsoil and 10 yards of mulch. Oh I power washed 20 years of grime from aluminum siding on the house.

I finished painting the inside of the 30’x50’ pole barn with my new 7/8 HP Wagner airless sprayer. Wired in a 50 Amp 240 Volt receptacle and moved my 40’ motor home inside.

On my 30’X50’ working garage addition I finished installing the two three-phase 240 Volt rotary converters along with all the single-phase and three-phase wiring to the machinery and bridge crane. Last week I moved in all the big pieces of machinery along with most of the cabinets, shelving, and tables. I also installed a 10,000 pound two-post lift, that I plan on posting about later today.

So I’ve been extremely busy, as there is only one of me and a whole pile of work that needs to be done! When I finish organizing the garage addition, I’ll post an update.

.