Must have Snap On items?

[CGarage]

Which vessel one?

I'll have to check it out. Of course 90% I'm hitting it with a hex impact anyhow but you know.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155W1PU6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Caa311]

The SO ratchet screwdriver is old tech.

The Vessel Japan ratchet screwdriver I think is far and away better.

I agree but I bought mine in 1988 and it's high leverage and durable. Put so.e vessel bits in it!

 

[CGarage]

I prefer the Vessel mechanism as well. I find it more refined. I prefer the shaft dimensions on the SO/Williams, however.

 

[AEAdam]

Wright wrenches outperform (SnapOn) and every wrench I'm aware of.

Agree with all above and below this sentence. Sometimes the folks testing wrenches don’t always consider everything they should.

Snap On wrenches are very thin, which is generally good. They fit more places. Even a marginally thicker wrench has strength advantages. I recall a test against Stahlwile. The Stahlwile wrenches were much bigger. If you have the space, the bigger wrenches may be superior.

Generally, Snap On engineers the smallest possible tools and uses superior materials and processing. Resulting testing may show them comparable, but if you compared size, I think a bigger difference would emerge. (Stress=force/area, more meat generally means lower stress)

I will say, when I first used SnapOn wrenches, I found their beams too thin (compared to craftsman raised panels for example). I got used to them and now prefer them. Especially appreciate the long pattern, which are very long.

Not saying wright aren’t better wrenches or that I wouldn’t love them. Only that I no longer trust YouTube reviewers. 100% agree with, “you can’t really go wrong with Snap On”. May not be best, certainly highest cost option, but no real bad snap on tools, which makes this thread hard to answer.

 

[AEAdam]

I prefer the Vessel mechanism as well. I find it more refined. I prefer the shaft dimensions on the SO/Williams, however.

The new SO soft grip ratcheting screwdriver’s end cap is a miss in my opinion. Comes off at inopportune moments. I feel that’s a design flaw.

And some have plastic washers where the replaceable shaft enters the handle that drag on the shaft making more back drag than they should have and really limiting their utility. I’ve fixed some of mine by carefully reaming up that washer.

 

[CGarage]

The new SO soft grip ratcheting screwdriver’s end cap is a miss in my opinion. Comes off an inopportune moments. I feel that’s a design flaw. And some have plastic washers where the replaceable shaft enters the handle that drag on the shaft making more back drag than they should have and really limiting their utility. I’ve fixed some of mine by carefully reaming up that washer.

Buy the Vessel with two sets of bits for $20 and you won’t have that problem and will have a nicer tool.

 

[rockettauto]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155W1PU6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thanks for linking it.
I just have an aversion to any screwdrivers that take the short bits.

Agree with all above and below this sentence. Sometimes the folks testing wrenches don’t always consider everything they should.

Snap On wrenches are very thin, which is generally good. They fit more places. Even a marginally thicker wrench has strength advantages. I recall a test against Stahlwile. The Stahlwile wrenches were much bigger. If you have the space, the bigger wrenches may be superior.

Generally, Snap On engineers the smallest possible tools and uses superior materials and processing. Resulting testing may show them comparable, but if you compared size, I think a bigger difference would emerge. (Stress=force/area, more meat generally means lower stress)

I will say, when I first used SnapOn wrenches, I found their beams too thin (compared to craftsman raised panels for example). I got used to them and now prefer them. Especially appreciate the long pattern, which are very long.

Not saying wright aren’t better wrenches or that I wouldn’t love them. Only that I no longer trust YouTube reviewers. 100% agree with, “you can’t really go wrong with Snap On”. May not be best, certainly highest cost option, but no real bad snap on tools, which makes this thread hard to answer.

So happens im from Barberton, OH. My grandfather used Wright and did some machining work for their production equipment.

Recent attention aside, I'm a fanboy. lol

But at like 30 percent of the cost and having a better grip I'd still be happy to buy them from a privately owned all US made company if the performance was about as good, let alone arguably better.

 

[CGarage]

Thanks for linking it.
I just have an aversion to any screwdrivers that take the short bits.

What?

 

[VolvoRyan]

SK ( even the new Chinese ones) flare nut wrenches equal snappy, though this is a very hit or miss category that you can't just choose any big name and they're awesome.

Not in real life. I went at a total brake system replacement (only the booster didn't get replaced) on a rusty, thirtysomething Volvo 245 w/ dual circuit brakes. I had both my Snap-On and USA SK flare wrenches. Snap-On was a step above. Without a doubt.

Wright does make really nice wrenches, though the Wright-Grip is not kind to fasteners. I do like the thicker handles. I seem to grab the Wright wrenches for under-car stuff, and the Snap-On for engine stuff.

-Ryan

 

[VolvoRyan]

So happens im from Barberton, OH. My grandfather used Wright and did some machining work for their production equipment.

Recent attention aside, I'm a fanboy. lol

Hard not to be a Wright fanboy. Wright makes some amazing tools. It's funny, because going through the catalog gives you a very old-fashioned feeling.... but their tools can be pretty cutting edge where it matters. I have a "sprinkling" of Wright tools throughout the tool box, and they're all noteworthy.

-Ryan

 

[rockettauto]

What?

Interchangeable drivers bug me unless they use the 4" bits or whatever, where the bit makes the vast majority of the shaft.

 

[rockettauto]

Not in real life. I went at a total brake system replacement (only the booster didn't get replaced) on a rusty, thirtysomething Volvo 245 w/ dual circuit brakes. I had both my Snap-On and USA SK flare wrenches. Snap-On was a step above. Without a doubt.

Wright does make really nice wrenches, though the Wright-Grip is not kind to fasteners. I do like the thicker handles. I seem to grab the Wright wrenches for under-car stuff, and the Snap-On for engine stuff.

-Ryan

I could see that.... IME if I have trouble with my SK...my buddies snappys havent helped , but I could still see them being considered a snappy "must have".

Tbf though when I was up north , you just didn't bother, just cut it and put a 6pt socket on it because you'll never not twist the lines off at that point anyhow.

Now that I'm down south, hell its rare I couldn't just use a regular open end. Exception being marine stuff but basically any line wrench tends to work on those stainless. If you were in any danger of rounding it you already had bigger problems because most likely when it came out the aluminum it was screwed into was coming with it.

I guess I haven't done a huge amount of struggling with lines.

 

[n8n]

Two that I own and wouldn't be without are the SSDMR4 ratcheting screwdriver and the matching stubby. Also the PIT120 hand impact. Had to expand both with non-Snap On bits however. For the screwdriver I used Vessel bits for JIS, PB Swiss for Pozidriv, and a big Harbor Freight kit to cover everything else that is seldom used. For the PIT120 I also got Vessel JIS bits and Wiha impact rated bit holders (because the Snap On ones have the bits each in their own sockets) these can also be used with a shake n break as well so super handy.

 

[n8n]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155W1PU6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Do they have a stubby version? That is really why I went Snap-On because at the time I bought it I was unaware of anyone else having a stubby. Then I had to buy the full size one because the Craftsman knockoff version's ratchet mechanism worked backwards from Snap-On and switching between stubby and regular just wasn't working for me. I know what you're going to say but the lower backdrag of the Snap-On makes it much more pleasant to use than the Craftsman as well.

Unfortunately I handed my landlady the Snap-On SSDMR4 and haven't seen it in two weeks :/ (she's actually super nice I just keep forgetting to ask for it back)

 

[CGarage]

Do they have a stubby version? That is really why I went Snap-On because at the time I bought it I was unaware of anyone else having a stubby. Then I had to buy the full size one because the Craftsman knockoff version's ratchet mechanism worked backwards from Snap-On and switching between stubby and regular just wasn't working for me. I know what you're going to say but the lower backdrag of the Snap-On makes it much more pleasant to use than the Craftsman as well.

Unfortunately I handed my landlady the Snap-On SSDMR4 and haven't seen it in two weeks :/ (she's actually super nice I just keep forgetting to ask for it back)

Yes they do I will look for it and post link.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I could see that.... IME if I have trouble with my SK...my buddies snappys havent helped , but I could still see them being considered a snappy "must have".

Tbf though when I was up north , you just didn't bother, just cut it and put a 6pt socket on it because you'll never not twist the lines off at that point anyhow.

Now that I'm down south, hell its rare I couldn't just use a regular open end. Exception being marine stuff but basically any line wrench tends to work on those stainless.

I guess I haven't done a huge amount of struggling with lines.

You gotta hit the tube nut a few times with a torch and water quench it. If you don't melt through the line because it's so thin it can't handle the heat, they'll normally come apart. If you can get it wiggling sometimes you can spin the hose off and spin the new one on to the stuck fitting.

IMO the SKs I have a inferior to my snap ons. Plus side is the SKs normally just spread and slip, where the snap on will normally blow off the corners.

 

[VolvoRyan]

I could see that.... IME if I have trouble with my SK...my buddies snappys havent helped , but I could still see them being considered a snappy "must have".

Tbf though when I was up north , you just didn't bother, just cut it and put a 6pt socket on it because you'll never not twist the lines off at that point anyhow.

Now that I'm down south, hell its rare I couldn't just use a regular open end. Exception being marine stuff but basically any line wrench tends to work on those stainless. If you were in any danger of rounding it you already had bigger problems because most likely when it came out the aluminum it was screwed into was coming with it.

I guess I haven't done a huge amount of struggling with lines.

I have a few southern cars that winter in the garage. They're always easy to work on.

The old 1970's McPherson struts had an odd mix of hard lines and flex lines. Chewing up the nuts on the hard lines made the scope of the work snowball pretty seriously.

For the rustbelt cars, I usually sacrifice the flex hose. They're cheap. Cut the hose, then hit the remaining fitting with acetylene until the crimped portion explodes (eye and ear protection helps!). Then the fitting comes apart with nearly any tool.

-Ryan

 

[rockettauto]

You gotta hit the tube nut a few times with a torch and water quench it. If you don't melt through the line because it's so thin it can't handle the heat, they'll normally come apart. If you can get it wiggling sometimes you can spin the hose off and spin the new one on to the stuck fitting.

IMO the SKs I have a inferior to my snap ons. Plus side is the SKs normally just spread and slip, where the snap on will normally blow off the corners.

Maybe at home, or down south where I'm at I'll do that , but back north burning up time trying a 50/50 shot to save a rusty $7 line that I can make new in the same time with the bonus of switching it to copper nickel never made sense in the shop.

Cheaper and better end result for the customer was typically just cut and go.

 

[VolvoRyan]

You gotta hit the tube nut a few times with a torch and water quench it. If you don't melt through the line because it's so thin it can't handle the heat, they'll normally come apart. If you can get it wiggling sometimes you can spin the hose off and spin the new one on to the stuck fitting.

IMO the SKs I have a inferior to my snap ons. Plus side is the SKs normally just spread and slip, where the snap on will normally blow off the corners.

I've had luck with the torch-n-quench before. I always worried about the integrity of the rubber line. Now I just kill all traces of the rubber line's fittings with fire.

My SK's are short, and have no offset. The Snap-Ons are longer, with a mild offset and work a treat.

-Ryan

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Maybe at home, or down south where I'm at I'll do that , but back north burning up time trying a 50/50 shot to save a rusty $7 line that I can make new in the same time with the bonus of switching it to copper nickel never made sense in the shop.

Cheaper and better end result for the customer was typically just cut and go.

I'll always give them a try with a torch rather than having to union in a new line to the old steel, or run an entire new line. Sometimes it's not so gravy to run a new nicop line.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Purchase SNAP-ON TOOLS RADIATOR HOSE PICK TOOL COTTER PIN REMOVAL A173A BLACK HARD HANDLE in Ronkonkoma, New York, US, for US $2.00

Purchase SNAP-ON TOOLS RADIATOR HOSE PICK TOOL COTTER PIN REMOVAL A173A BLACK HARD HANDLE in Ronkonkoma, New York, US, for US $2.00

www.2040-parts.com

$2? That tool is $40 on the truck. I have 3 of them.

 

[65k10]

I've been happy with my cg250 and cg270 (now cj250 and cj270) gear pullers. Very versatile when it comes to being easily configured for different situations with the different puller legs, tips, and being able to attach a slide hammer to most of them. It's quick and easy to change out legs with no need to fiddle with pins or bolts. I also like that the legs can have some tension put against them to hold them in place and it helps them from flopping around when trying to position the puller.

 

[n8n]

Yes they do I will look for it and post link.

I found this guy

Ratchet Stubby Screwdriver No.TD-6700W-23(Ph No.2/No.3) | PRODUCTS INFORMATION | VESSEL CO., INC

full range of information on product groups ranging from tightening tools such as drivers, bit sockets and air tools to anti-static products in the factory

vessel.co.jp

can't really tell if it will take a standard bit though as I'd like, as I already have plenty of them including some good ones (S-O, Vessel, PB Swiss) do you have one?

 

[kythri]

+1, but in both sizes.

Waiting on them to release the smaller ones in Power Blue to match the LN47ACF I have.

What’s the part number for the smaller ones, anyhow?

 

[JWC86]

Waiting on them to release the smaller ones in Power Blue to match the LN47ACF I have.

What’s the part number for the smaller ones, anyhow?

Pretty sure it’s the same number but 46 rather than 47

 

[Sticks McGee]

Best compact 3/8” battery impact I have ever used. I use it a ton

 

[rockettauto]

I've had luck with the torch-n-quench before. I always worried about the integrity of the rubber line. Now I just kill all traces of the rubber line's fittings with fire.

My SK's are short, and have no offset. The Snap-Ons are longer, with a mild offset and work a treat.

-Ryan

So...this made think....."the unthinkable"... Mine are offset, and not US.

It's possible their newer non US is actually better than their old line in this category.

 

[demarpaint]

Waiting on them to release the smaller ones in Power Blue to match the LN47ACF I have.

What’s the part number for the smaller ones, anyhow?

Sorry for the late reply. LN46ACF is the number, mine are with red grips.

 

[bonneyman]

That is because eBay has shot up so much on charges to the seller. I sold a socket set for $275 plus $9 shipping. The buyer paid $305 with California sales tax. eBay charged me 13% on the whole nut, so got 13% of the shipping and the tax. Their payment to me was $244, and I still had to pay $19 shipping. So a$275 item netted me $225. The deals on eBay are evaporating because eBay takes so much of the money that, unless you just want to work for them, it isn’t worth the effort. I am trying to eliminate a 45 year hoard. So far, between the post office, eBay, and my own ignorance, it has cost me more than I have gotten.

One of my wife's girlfriends said the same thing to us. She had and ebay business, and the fees and all have just eaten into her profits. She ended up closing her store I think.
I, too, have a hoard of stuff to get rid of and thought about doing ebay but that has evaporated.

To the OP's question: I agree with the idea of getting Snappy tools that no one else makes or offer a function no other brand can match. I think their high performance zero offset DBE's would be great to have.
I've been rebuilding ratchets for years, and didn't realize what I was missing till I got the S-O ratchet spring tool. Man that little thing is great! SP744 I think.

 

[will335i]

One of my wife's girlfriends said the same thing to us. She had and ebay business, and the fees and all have just eaten into her profits. She ended up closing her store I think.
I, too, have a hoard of stuff to get rid of and thought about doing ebay but that has evaporated.

To the OP's question: I agree with the idea of getting Snappy tools that no one else makes or offer a function no other brand can match. I've been rebuilding ratchets for years, and didn't realize what I was missing till I got the S-O ratchet spring tool. Man that little thing is great! SP744 I think.

I have a buddy that sells on Amazon and eBay but also has his own website. He maintains the presence on those because that's were shoppers go first vs some random website but he includes the details with the products when he ships them and offers discounts if they buy straight from his site.

 

[yjWrangler]

pliers- regular slip joint and the needle nose

Yep. The slip joints especially are so good

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Tekton ratchets are similar in all regards but stronger.

Tekton ratchets are better than Snap On?

 

[rockettauto]

Tekton ratchets are better than Snap On?

I'd say so. It could sway a little one direction or the other depending on the exact model but I would say more tektons come out ahead overall. I wouldn't argue with calling them even really. So considering their 1/3rd the price I can't call the snap ons a must have.

Right now I have husky, Cornwell,snap on,kobalt,tektons, icon. Some of my snap ons sit there unused but just because they feel clunky and probably need cleaned. The Kobalt 1/2" don't get grabbed a lot just because they feel like a heavy oversized brick. Otherwise they'll all get used without a sway in any direction so I can't say " oooh , gotta have my snap on ratchets".

 

[dchawk81]

I'd say so. It could sway a little one direction or the other depending on the exact model but I would say more tektons come out ahead overall. I wouldn't argue with calling them even really. So considering their 1/3rd the price I can't call the snap ons a must have.

Right now I have husky, Cornwell,snap on,kobalt,tektons, icon. Some of my snap ons sit there unused but just because they feel clunky and probably need cleaned. The Kobalt 1/2" don't get grabbed a lot just because they feel like a heavy oversized brick. Otherwise they'll all get used without a sway in any direction so I can't say " oooh , gotta have my snap on ratchets".

I would probably clean them before declaring another brand better.

 

[Snaparxon]

To answer the OP's question, you MUST have lots of money to purchase them new.

 

[rockettauto]

I would probably clean them before declaring another brand better.

Clearly not the reason. Point is I haven't bothered because I don't miss using them by comparison. Even with the newer ones that don't need it, they give me zero reason to reach for them over the tektons. I wouldn't miss them if they got tucked away somewhere.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Clearly not the reason. Point is I haven't bothered because I don't miss using them by comparison. Even with the newer ones that don't need it, they give me zero reason to reach for them over the tektons. I wouldn't miss them if they got tucked away somewhere.

Which particular tekton model ratchets do you like so much? I dont hear much discussion on them.

 

[rockettauto]

Which particular tekton model ratchets do you like so much? I dont hear much discussion on them.

I have their 3/8 flex head, 1/2 drive non quick release release and 1/4 flex stubby. In practice I just don't feel any difference outside of the 1/4 stubby has pretty low back drag. In what tests I've seen with strength etc. they come out even or better than the snappys.

Again it's not so much liking them so much ( besides price) it's more like i could take either and I'm not going to complain.

 

[dchawk81]

I have their 3/8 flex head, 1/2 drive non quick release release and 1/4 flex stubby. In practice I just don't feel any difference outside of the 1/4 stubby has pretty low back drag. In what tests I've seen with strength etc. they come out even or better than the snappys.

Again it's not so much liking them so much ( besides price) it's more like i could take either and I'm not going to complain.

Well that's entirely different.

I only have a couple ratchets I actively try to avoid using.

 

[rockettauto]

Well that's entirely different.

I only have a couple ratchets I actively try to avoid using.

Same. An ancient snappy that feels sloppy and is just worn, a probably dirty snappy that feels notchy with lots of back drag, both kobalt 1/2", all the craftsman ( dont know why i keep those). That's all I can think of ATM. In practice the differences are so marginal amongst anything decent I just can't call too many ratchets a must have.