My 1975 Chevy Dually Build
- Thread starter 75Dually
- Start date
So I finally got back on the truck tonight. Yeah, yeah, yeah... More bed work. I got the end cap completed on the passenger wheel tub. What looks easy rarely is... 
I also have a cool design for both of the access doors. I hope to share that fairly soon.
There is a small show at our local mall this weekend and I would like to have the bed at least mostly done. If I could have the bed liner on it before then that would be a major plus.
Stay tuned!
I also have a cool design for both of the access doors. I hope to share that fairly soon. There is a small show at our local mall this weekend and I would like to have the bed at least mostly done. If I could have the bed liner on it before then that would be a major plus.
Stay tuned!
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I have had this surf board for a couple of years now and it has just hung around in the shop for all that time. I got it on a trip we took to Florida a couple of years back. Because I am not ready with a new window for the Dually right now I made this display board for my club logo. Get it display board!
Stay tuned!
Stay tuned!
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While out on business this week I picked up the below grille for my 68 GMC project. A good friend on Facebook had it and was willing to let it go. Actually I should now say 68 Chevy. I have always liked the 67/68 Chevy front ends. Still have to collect a lot more parts for that project. However I can't wait to get started!
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xtremek
Well-known member
So, I've just joined the club. I just bought an '82 GMC Dually dump ($700 and she runs good). So I'm going to be bugging you for tips and hints. First on the list is make Old Beast stable. Already replaced both calipers. After I get the brakes and steering stable I'll build a new box (keeping the dump/stake style) So, the question is, how would you drop it if your were still going to haul up to 7500lbs. in the box? This will dictate how I build the box. Thanks for your help and inspiration.
First you need to start a build thread for it so I can follow along!
I would drop it by making a 3"x5" rear kick up similar to my notch. I would do a heck of a lot more bracing and boxing of the frame. Then I would use much larger bags, something like the triple semi bags placed right over the axle and supported by the notch. I would also recommend the 4 link I use. It was designed for heavy duty applications, it is made by Thorbros.com. Don't do any type of bag system other than right over the axle, none of them would be strong enough to support a load like what you are talking about. Once I see some pics of it I can give you a better idea of how I would go about doing a system for it. Start your thread and let me know when you get some pics on it.
Horror Business
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2014
- Messages
- 508
very nice!
Ok back to business! Coat #1 done! Using Rustoleum bed coating. I bought the gallon size. So far I like it. I bought a throw away small paint roller kit at Home Depot that had 4 rollers, a pan, and the handle for $4. This product goes on really well and the coverage is very good. Really hard to tell with only one coat on it, but the truth will be once I get better coverage on the whole part.
I have not done the sides yet because I have a lot more sheet metal work to do before I can coat those parts.
Needs a lot more coats, but that is for tomorrow night...
Stay tuned!
I have not done the sides yet because I have a lot more sheet metal work to do before I can coat those parts.
Needs a lot more coats, but that is for tomorrow night...
Stay tuned!
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HOTFR8
Banned
Always great to see another GJ members project in print.
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Doesn't get much cooler than that! Congrats!
xtremek
Well-known member
I just found this months issue of Street Trucks (my wife left it in her car after collecting the mail) and I was flipping forward from the Trosley cartoon when I saw it. I even showed my wife and some of my daughters. "I know this guy!!!" Pics of the "Lil' Beast" are coming soon. Anyway, keep us in the loop, I'm learning a ton from you.
53PontiacSD
Well-known member
Cool build. Saw it in Slaton last year. You've come a long way since then. Thanks for your posts. Getting lots of ideas.
That made my morning! Thanks!! I was overjoyed when a friend posted it on Facebook before I had even gotten the mail that day. Talk about running to the mailbox!
Yeah lot's of hard work on it since then. Still lots to do on it, but that is why this is my favorite hobby, there is always something to do!
Thanks!!!
53PontiacSD
Well-known member
Yes I totally agree
Worked on the tailgate straps tonight. I bought these cable straps off eBay for $10 delivered. So for $5 a side I could not pass it up. The fab was really easy. Simply notch the lower part so it would slip over the bottom bolt that the old strap attached to. Then cut the top of the old strap and weld a 5/16" bolt to it, clean it all up and snap in the new cable straps. It maybe took me 10 minutes a side if that.
I know your going to ask why did I change. Simple the old straps were not long enough. Must have been a model year issue, but they simply were not the right length. So I saw the cable straps on my wife's GMC and figured it would be an easy swap, and it was.
Stay tuned!
I know your going to ask why did I change. Simple the old straps were not long enough. Must have been a model year issue, but they simply were not the right length. So I saw the cable straps on my wife's GMC and figured it would be an easy swap, and it was.
Stay tuned!
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xtremek
Well-known member
What are you going to do with the tailgate jams? I like the strap extensions.
53PontiacSD
Well-known member
Good idea.
Billy
Billy
xtremek
Well-known member
Sorry, I got nothin' for you.
xtremek
Well-known member
Hey 75, I don’t think I’ll do a specific build thread because this will be a very slow build, seeing as the house and property are still going to be my priorities. But I will put it in my reno thread. As I said, I’m going to bug you, so the question is how would you drop the front end? Spindles? Aftermarket control arms? Modified control arms? All the above? I’m pretty sure the truck will be bagged all the way around. I figure once I understand how far the front drops, I can design the rear.
xtremek
Well-known member
If I remember right, the quarter skin folds over the tailgate jamb. Cut your wrap where the quarter ends and then paint the rest?
So I will answer you question with a couple questions of my own first. How low do you want it in the end (biggest question of them all!) If bagged then here is what I would say if money was no object. First get a really good dropped spindle (prefer Beltech), the lower the better because it will maintain the factory geometry. Then a good set of tubular or aftermarket A-arms (Porterbuilt makes amazing stuff!). I would say modify your stock units, but I don't know your level of fab skills, so go with someone who knows what they are doing because everything in suspension means possible injury or death if you ****** up a weld. Tons of stress on all these parts...
As far as bags go, get the biggest you can fit in the space available. Some folks will say use a 2600 bag, and they have had good results, maybe they have, but then ask them about the ride quality... I used 3800 series from airbaggit.com and they have been great. Yes they were not the easiest to fit in there, but the effort was worth it. There are a lot of new bags on the market since I bought these, and I may switch out at some point, but they will have to have the load carrying capabilities and the ride quality better than the bags I have today for me to switch.
So in the end I really suggest that you look at Porterbuilt or GSI Fabrication. They have everything from 1/2 ton complete replacement suspensions to 1 ton stuff too. The reason I say this is that they are complete systems with minimal modifications compared to a DIY setup, and their setups are made to run low and have the right geometry for a lowered vehicle. Yes they are not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
I hope that helps. I know you are going to have more questions so at least this will give you some starting point of reference.
xtremek
Well-known member
So to answer your question about my question, (lol), I'd like to go as low as possible up front while keeping the stock wheels and tires, and still be safe. My fab skills are pretty good and the truck will get used heavy locally (less than 5 miles from my house on normal rural roads) before I take it out on any real trips. So, I'm not TOO worried about safety since all the work will be verified long before it sees much use. I have built a few cars from scratch in my time (Formula SAE, etc). I'll check into the Belltech spindles.
Chris, congrats on the coverage! I see the dually flashing around intsagram here and there. Lots of good comments
I'll chime in you you don't care. As far as spindles go, beltech and mcguaghys (sp) seem to be the brands to go with. Controls arms, porterbuilt or Michigan metal works are good ones. You could modify stock arms by raising the lower ball joint and also flat playing the spring pocket on the arm. Slam specialties makes great bags. Remember, the bigger the bag, the less air pressure used to lift it which makes a smoother ride. Stuff the biggest bag you can up there. Don't be scared to trim and reinforce. That's the brand I've ran the longest. Make sure to grab D.O.T. Fittings. They work for million mile semi trucks, they should work for you.
I'll chime in you you don't care. As far as spindles go, beltech and mcguaghys (sp) seem to be the brands to go with. Controls arms, porterbuilt or Michigan metal works are good ones. You could modify stock arms by raising the lower ball joint and also flat playing the spring pocket on the arm. Slam specialties makes great bags. Remember, the bigger the bag, the less air pressure used to lift it which makes a smoother ride. Stuff the biggest bag you can up there. Don't be scared to trim and reinforce. That's the brand I've ran the longest. Make sure to grab D.O.T. Fittings. They work for million mile semi trucks, they should work for you.
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Ok I do need to put my 2 cents in on modifying the lower ball joint. I do not recommend it. Yes it lowers the vehicle, but it causes some other issues. First it limits the amount of lift the truck gets when the bag inflates, and to get the truck up high enough to turn you have to run higher bag pressures which is never good. Secondly it changes the factory geometry and unless you are a GM suspension engineer I simply don't recommend it. There are better and simpler ways to change vehicle height in my opinion. Again this is just my 2 cents...
xtremek
Well-known member
Thanks for the input guys. Money being what it is, I'll probably modify my A-arms. Another question, Belltech says their spindles are only for crew cab duallys and mine is a single cab. What's the difference tween the two, other than the longer body/frame. Does it really take a different spindle?
Ok I do need to put my 2 cents in on modifying the lower ball joint. I do not recommend it. Yes it lowers the vehicle, but it causes some other issues. First it limits the amount of lift the truck gets when the bag inflates, and to get the truck up high enough to turn you have to run higher bag pressures which is never good. Secondly it changes the factory geometry and unless you are a GM suspension engineer I simply don't recommend it. There are better and simpler ways to change vehicle height in my opinion. Again this is just my 2 cents...
Your absolutely right. From what I've read/understood, he is in a budget or doesn't want to spend. Not the best way by any means but it is a way and it is does fairly often. But like anything, there going ok far with it.
Are you still running the accuair ecu and 1/2" valves ? If so how has that been going?