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Above 1200 Sq/FT My 40X32 Post & Beam with Elevator

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

Free Willie

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Joined
Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
Hi Everyone, I just spent the last year building my garage. To keep it in within budget I had to do most of the finishing myself.(Siding-insulation interior walls -electric- lift install) just the basics:) Not quite done yet, still need to build an L shaped work bench in the corner under the cabinets and an elevator to get bikes to the loft but its finally useable.
 

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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
Hey thanks guys, Yeah I like the massive timber look too.
I do motorcycle rodeos, thats what the trophies are from, it is the one thing I'm pretty good at, to bad there is no money in it, usually a pretty good party though.:drink:
 
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Free Willie

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Joined
Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
No kit here -- A friend of mine makes these custom to your specs. He has a sawmill that has been in his family for over a 100 yrs. I sat down with him and outlined what I needed for a layout and he drew up the plans and went to work. He even makes the windows and hardware for the barn & loft doors from scratch. Real talanted guy:bowdown:
You can see more of his work at www.strongtimberframes.com
 
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Free Willie

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Joined
Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
If you don't mind me asking what does something like that cost? that is the exact size and layout I've been thinking about doing.

It cost right at $49,000 for the excavation- concrete frame built and raised and metal roof put on. That included everything to finish, 7/8 t&g for the loft floor and siding and interior panels + 2" hard board insulation, windows and hardware for the barn + loft doors.
I got the doors installed for $3400 (all 3) and he sold me the openers at cost. Most electricians wanted 32-3500, I got around 1500 in it (lots of freebies)
The best deal was the lift for $1200. The elevator shouldn't cost me more than $500 or so to build.:thumbup: Ok hows that for detail?
 

jnyost

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
187
Location
Central Ohio
It cost right at $49,000 for the excavation- concrete frame built and raised and metal roof put on. That included everything to finish, 7/8 t&g for the loft floor and siding and interior panels + 2" hard board insulation, windows and hardware for the barn + loft doors.
I got the doors installed for $3400 (all 3) and he sold me the openers at cost. Most electricians wanted 32-3500, I got around 1500 in it (lots of freebies)
The best deal was the lift for $1200. The elevator shouldn't cost me more than $500 or so to build.:thumbup: Ok hows that for detail?

Nice deal. For my next shop maybe I'll consider something like that.
 

Y2K_Chief

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2009
Messages
9
Location
Winnsboro, La
That is probably one of the most solid builds I have ever seen. No doubt that it will be around for many many years. Tell the kids they have to keep it in the family.
 
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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
That is probably one of the most solid builds I have ever seen. No doubt that it will be around for many many years. Tell the kids they have to keep it in the family.

No kids - That's why I can afford it.:willy_nil
Your right, very sturdy but... To get permit W/out certified plans I had to put hurricane straps all over the outside of the framing because I am within 25 miles of long Island sound (110 mph wind zone):wtf: I pointed out to the inspector that my home is 2x4 framing and would fold over in that wind so thats ok? but the garage must be built for it:headscrat

Thanks for the compliment!
 
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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
Very nice! Tell us about your bikes, please.

Thanks RHP
My Geezer Glide (Road Glide) is a 2004 I just picked up last year. All stock w/quick connect Ultra tour pack.
The Shovelhead is a 1984 factory 4spd belt drive- factory forward controls
FLHS. One of the last few Shovels built. Its not super rare but not to common either. I've had it 14 years now, had 11k on it then now has 138K and it is the bike I won all the trophies with:thumbup:

As you can see it gets professionally parked every now and then:rocker:
The crowd loved that one!
 

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R1chy

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Sep 3, 2007
Messages
232
Location
Fairfax, VA
Hi Everyone, ... Not quite done yet, still need to build an L shaped work bench in the corner under the cabinets and an elevator to get bikes to the loft but its finally useable.

I seem to recall seeing a thread in the forum where someone used their lift as a means to lift stuff into their loft - pending your layout, it might help get your bikes upstairs.

Just a thought, R1chy
 

Skyline

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Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
3,586
You mentioned the rigid foam insulation board. Can you tell us a bit about how the insulation was done? Are the walls insulated?
 
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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
I seem to recall seeing a thread in the forum where someone used their lift as a means to lift stuff into their loft - pending your layout, it might help get your bikes upstairs.

Just a thought, R1chy

We thought about that too but the lift only raises 73" and the loft floor is almost 11', but thanks for the mention:)
We have it planned out already, just need to find the correct motor. I am looking for the motor and drive system from a boat lift if anyone has one laying around.
 
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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
You mentioned the rigid foam insulation board. Can you tell us a bit about how the insulation was done? Are the walls insulated?

It is an industrial insulation with a fabric like paper on both sides.
2" thick 4X8 sheets. The builder gets it from the manufacturer (not sure who that is)
With the siding on you just cut the insulation w/circular saw to fit between the posts & beams and it is just a press fit, then make T&G panels to fit and the 7/8" trim holds everything in place. Pretty easy just time consuming and it seemed like it would never end ,but it is worth it in the end,:thumbup:
 

Chris 50

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Joined
Feb 4, 2007
Messages
86
Location
LaPorte IN.
First off, beautiful building. Similar to the look I'm currently after. A few questions. Is the siding pine and what did you use to coat it? Also, the cabinets look like the ones from Car Guy's Garage that I was considering. Are you happy with them?
Thanks.
 

Skyline

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Nov 11, 2008
Messages
3,586
It is an industrial insulation with a fabric like paper on both sides.
2" thick 4X8 sheets. The builder gets it from the manufacturer (not sure who that is)
With the siding on you just cut the insulation w/circular saw to fit between the posts & beams and it is just a press fit, then make T&G panels to fit and the 7/8" trim holds everything in place. Pretty easy just time consuming and it seemed like it would never end ,but it is worth it in the end,:thumbup:
Did you use this same stuff under the roof and in the walls?

What R value does that get you?

Any vapor barrier?

Could you show us some close up photos of the interior panels you installed over the insulation?

Thanks
 
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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
First off, beautiful building. Similar to the look I'm currently after. A few questions. Is the siding pine and what did you use to coat it? Also, the cabinets look like the ones from Car Guy's Garage that I was considering. Are you happy with them?
Thanks.

Hi Chris, I used 7/8 T&G pine and used almost 11 gallons of this stuff.

The cabinets are great as I did not want steel and I searched around different places for these (sears had a killer deal but they weren't in stock anywhere) Best price was on Carparts.com Free shipping and well packed.:thumbup: They are Ultimate cabinets.
 

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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
Did you use this same stuff under the roof and in the walls?

What R value does that get you?

Any vapor barrier?

Could you show us some close up photos of the interior panels you installed over the insulation?

Thanks

Same stuff under the roof (same install method)
No idea what the R value is, I've been in a few of these buildings - a good friend has same size and it is pretty easy to heat and seems to stay comfortable on hot days too. (no A/C)
No vapor barrier.
Here's a couple of pics.
no vapor barrier.
Here's a couple of pics.
 

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caho

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Apr 2, 2009
Messages
4
Great place you've got there. Are the interior pine boards that cover the insulation board held on by the square trim pieces on the ends?
 
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Free Willie

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Joined
Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
Great place you've got there. Are the interior pine boards that cover the insulation board held on by the square trim pieces on the ends?

Thankyou, and yes the trim pieces are nailed to the posts and beams to hold the interior panels and insulation in place.
 

Chris 50

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2007
Messages
86
Location
LaPorte IN.
I used 3/4" T&G pine trimmed in with Olympic clear. Yours looks a bit darker. Has it been up long? I went with clear in hopes of accelerating the weathering process by letting more sunlight through.
 
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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
I started siding it last June and put 1 coat on in late September.
It turned that color right away and I hope it stays that way. I am going to do another coat soon. so I'll have to let you know how that comes out.
 

Panhead Dave

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Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Messages
1
NICE COOP!!! You can do rodeo practice on the rainy days!!!Leave it to You to install a custom weenie bite rack! No holeshots or doughnuts yet?!?!?
 
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Free Willie

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Dec 29, 2008
Messages
382
Location
Connecticut
NICE COOP!!! You can do rodeo practice on the rainy days!!!Leave it to You to install a custom weenie bite rack! No holeshots or doughnuts yet?!?!?

Hey Dave , Glad to see ya made it here!
Rainy days don't stop me now. It's still a little crowded for the keg push though - not enough shut down area.
Weenie bite rack:spit: Damn I didn't even think of that, good idea.
Hey does this remind you of anything?:drink: Rendezvous!!!
 
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