aka Larry
Well-known member
What started this build was the purchase of my 2006 Mustang GT. I track my car at local HPDE events and I like to run DOT race tires for the awesome grip and extra fun they provide. Since the Mustang wheels are a good bit wider than the ones on my old Z-24, they are not even close to fitting on my my old tire trailer. It was time to either buy or build a new and bigger one.
After a lot of searching, I finally concluded it would be better to build my own trailer. Anything I would have bought would have needed to be modified for my purpose anyway, and besides, a lot of the parts I had could be re-used. I determined I could re-use the wheels, tires, hubs, bearings, toolbox, leaf springs, spring hangers, axle mounting plates and u-bolts. I started a spreadsheet to track all the costs involved and to have a source to go back and locate the various parts I may need later.
Next was the design. I wanted to be able to use this new trailer for trips to Lowes to haul stuff when needed. After a few days of tweaking the design, I came up with a plan. Once I had all the data, I made the drawings and started ordering parts, the first of which was the steel for the basic frame which is 2"x2”x3/16" thk angle. The same size material will be used to form the perimeter railing which is more for overall rigidity than anything else. I also picked up the material for the tongue (2-1/2" square tube) and the axle (1-1/2" square tube) from another local steel fabricator.
Below are the pics and notes from the fabrication:
First up was to cut all the members to length with the bandsaw. Here you can see one of the miter cuts in progress. All four corners were mitered. BTW, Pennzoil 10W-30 will work as a cutting lubricant just fine in a pinch.
The members that are used as cross braces need to be notched so the flanges will fit flush to form and even surface for the decking material. I did all of these with the band saw also to make a nice clean cut.
Since this material is 3/16" thick, I needed to bevel the edges to ensure full penetration of the welds.
I’m a planner and some pre-planning is always a good thing. Here I'm making a 1/2" hole in the cross members to run the wiring to the rear tail lights.
If you don't have a set of Rotabroaches...get a set! These things rock and make a drill bit seem obsolete. Do they make a pretty hole or what? Fast too!
Here I'm using clamps, a jig, and a level to make sure the whole thing is square.
The outer perimeter of the frame is complete.
Remember those notches? Here I've clamped the cross braces in place for a flush fit on the top side of the angle. Without the notches this would not be possible.
The main frame is now fully welded and complete.
Without the railing, the perimeter 2"x2" angle members aren't rigid enough to keep the frame from "racking". I used jack stands and shims to get it all square before welding on the railing to stiffen it all up.
Here the railing is all finished.
One thing I didn't really account for was the weight of all the steel. Yes, I knew how heavy it would be in the end, but until it's a roller it's all dead weight that needs to be moved around. Luckily I bought a small yard kart last year to use around the yard to haul stuff too heavy for wheel barrow. I spaced out a couple pieces of 1" square tubing and sat the entire assembly onto the kart. The kart made it easy as pie to roll outside where it sits now under a tarp waiting for the next round of fabrication.
After a lot of searching, I finally concluded it would be better to build my own trailer. Anything I would have bought would have needed to be modified for my purpose anyway, and besides, a lot of the parts I had could be re-used. I determined I could re-use the wheels, tires, hubs, bearings, toolbox, leaf springs, spring hangers, axle mounting plates and u-bolts. I started a spreadsheet to track all the costs involved and to have a source to go back and locate the various parts I may need later.
Next was the design. I wanted to be able to use this new trailer for trips to Lowes to haul stuff when needed. After a few days of tweaking the design, I came up with a plan. Once I had all the data, I made the drawings and started ordering parts, the first of which was the steel for the basic frame which is 2"x2”x3/16" thk angle. The same size material will be used to form the perimeter railing which is more for overall rigidity than anything else. I also picked up the material for the tongue (2-1/2" square tube) and the axle (1-1/2" square tube) from another local steel fabricator.
Below are the pics and notes from the fabrication:
First up was to cut all the members to length with the bandsaw. Here you can see one of the miter cuts in progress. All four corners were mitered. BTW, Pennzoil 10W-30 will work as a cutting lubricant just fine in a pinch.
The members that are used as cross braces need to be notched so the flanges will fit flush to form and even surface for the decking material. I did all of these with the band saw also to make a nice clean cut.
Since this material is 3/16" thick, I needed to bevel the edges to ensure full penetration of the welds.
I’m a planner and some pre-planning is always a good thing. Here I'm making a 1/2" hole in the cross members to run the wiring to the rear tail lights.
If you don't have a set of Rotabroaches...get a set! These things rock and make a drill bit seem obsolete. Do they make a pretty hole or what? Fast too!
Here I'm using clamps, a jig, and a level to make sure the whole thing is square.
The outer perimeter of the frame is complete.
Remember those notches? Here I've clamped the cross braces in place for a flush fit on the top side of the angle. Without the notches this would not be possible.
The main frame is now fully welded and complete.
Without the railing, the perimeter 2"x2" angle members aren't rigid enough to keep the frame from "racking". I used jack stands and shims to get it all square before welding on the railing to stiffen it all up.
Here the railing is all finished.
One thing I didn't really account for was the weight of all the steel. Yes, I knew how heavy it would be in the end, but until it's a roller it's all dead weight that needs to be moved around. Luckily I bought a small yard kart last year to use around the yard to haul stuff too heavy for wheel barrow. I spaced out a couple pieces of 1" square tubing and sat the entire assembly onto the kart. The kart made it easy as pie to roll outside where it sits now under a tarp waiting for the next round of fabrication.
