My 5x10 trailer

[PCO6]

I'm not sure about the US, but here in Canada when we want 8' studs we buy 8' lumber. Fewer cuts maximizes beer time, our National Sport

Just ahead of or behind hockey and lacrosse. I can never get that straight.

Nice job on your trailer btw.

 

[toofart]

Just ahead of or behind hockey and lacrosse.

I watch both on TV to partake in 2 national sports at the same time

Very nice looking first trailer build.

I was just talking to a buddy a few weeks ago about his and my need for a 5x10 or 12 dump bed trailer. something that might just happen later winter early spring.

Anyhow nice job.

Thanks man. If you do build it, post up a thread!

 

[toofart]

A bit more progress


Got the fenders mounted

Put on the first part of the tailgate/ramp .. 24" tall. Another 24" section will be hinged to the end of this one:

Hinge pins will be removable to take the gate off. I'll put mesh (lying on the trailer)

I'm having a blast building this.

 

[rslaback]

It would take a bit of work but I would suggest refabbing your tailgate so that it can fold forward onto the deck when the trailer is empty. You'd be surprised how much wind a tailgate catches; even a mesh one. You also might have an issue with the balance of the trailer with that much tailgate on the end. Your axle looks pretty close to the middle (about 6" back) and it looks to me like the tailgate is going to weigh more than the hitch unless you are planning on a tongue toolbox.

 

[kerrynzl]

I'm having a blast building this.

Quote of the day !!!!

It give great satisfaction when you enjoy doing something .

When you weld the mesh, clamp a bit of angle along the edge about 1/2" back [spray the **** out of the angle with "anti-splatter" ]

If you end up like me, you'll have a G/C clamp addiction [ I have a couple of "fish bins" full of clamps ]

 

[toofart]

You'd be surprised how much wind a tailgate catches; even a mesh one.

I'm not overly concerned with wind resistance on a 24" tall tailgate. I will have the option of removing it if I'm planning a long trip.

You also might have an issue with the balance of the trailer with that much tailgate on the end. Your axle looks pretty close to the middle (about 6" back) and it looks to me like the tailgate is going to weigh more than the hitch unless you are planning on a tongue toolbox.

I'm actually hoping the tailgate adds some weight. The Channel A frame is quite heavy. Also missing from the front is some wood siding, jack and a spare tire.

Axle centreline is 8 or 9 inches rearward.

 

[toofart]

When you weld the mesh, clamp a bit of angle along the edge about 1/2" back [spray the **** out of the angle with "anti-splatter" ]

Great tip as always, thanks. I hadn't thought of that.

 

[kerrynzl]

It would take a bit of work but I would suggest refabbing your tailgate so that it can fold forward onto the deck when the trailer is empty. You'd be surprised how much wind a tailgate catches; even a mesh one. You also might have an issue with the balance of the trailer with that much tailgate on the end. Your axle looks pretty close to the middle (about 6" back) and it looks to me like the tailgate is going to weigh more than the hitch unless you are planning on a tongue toolbox.

Nothing wrong with the way it is.
Mesh at the rear is quite lightweight and the rear tailgate doesn't have double rails around the top.
I doubt if the extra 6" on the vertical posts would equal the extra weight of the second top rail.
A jockey wheel or a tongue jack would more than cancel out any balance issues that you are concerned with.

As for wind resistance...... the mesh would cut through the air better than the front panel on the trailer.
The reality is ...people are only concerned with wind resistance when the trailer is empty [ and the tow vehicle can overcome it easier ]

If there was a quad bike on it, and the tailgate was up, the wind resistance would be the same. If the quad bike was balanced properly , I doubt if the tongue weight would change more than 50lbs anyway.

 

[toofart]

In the end, this trailer will be a heavy pig but it is very sturdy. If I had to start over I wouldn't do the wrap-around channel tongue (I would still use channel though) and I'd use smaller, more lightweight material for the sides and rails.

I used 1.5" top and 1.25" lower for the rails, and 1.25" posts, all 1/8" tube.

1.25 top and 1" lower with 1" posts would have been sufficient, and .100" tube. Both of these changes would likely shed about 75 lbs

I'll weigh it when I'm done.

 

[rslaback]

Nothing wrong with the way it is.
Mesh at the rear is quite lightweight and the rear tailgate doesn't have double rails around the top.
I doubt if the extra 6" on the vertical posts would equal the extra weight of the second top rail.
A jockey wheel or a tongue jack would more than cancel out any balance issues that you are concerned with.

As for wind resistance...... the mesh would cut through the air better than the front panel on the trailer.
The reality is ...people are only concerned with wind resistance when the trailer is empty [ and the tow vehicle can overcome it easier ]

If there was a quad bike on it, and the tailgate was up, the wind resistance would be the same. If the quad bike was balanced properly , I doubt if the tongue weight would change more than 50lbs anyway.

It was my understanding that there is a second piece of tail that is going on as well. Mesh does allow air through but not nearly as well as people think, particularly a double layer. It's like a hose through a colander at highway speed. The potential issue I see with balance would be exacerbated by wind resistance on the tail which will act as a load. The trailer empty at highway speed could very easily be misbalanced.

 

[kerrynzl]

It was my understanding that there is a second piece of tail that is going on as well. Mesh does allow air through but not nearly as well as people think, particularly a double layer. It's like a hose through a colander at highway speed. The potential issue I see with balance would be exacerbated by wind resistance on the tail which will act as a load. The trailer empty at highway speed could very easily be misbalanced.

I think you are confusing aerodynamic "Drag" with aerodynamic "Downforce"

There is nothing in the design of this tailgate that would increase the velocity of air on the underside and create downforce at the rear [and lift the tongue]

I've towed many trailers with fold up ramps [solid] and sure the vehicle struggles in the wind [Drag] but they're not unstable ,
The worst I ever towed was my Aussie Falcon race car with the rear wing.
The downforce from the wing at 50 mph was enough to make the trailer lift at the towball [we now remove it when towing]

This tailgate will not be an issue [even if it was solid instead of mesh]

 

[rslaback]

I think you are confusing aerodynamic "Drag" with aerodynamic "Downforce"

There is nothing in the design of this tailgate that would increase the velocity of air on the underside and create downforce at the rear [and lift the tongue]

I've towed many trailers with fold up ramps [solid] and sure the vehicle struggles in the wind [Drag] but they're not unstable ,
The worst I ever towed was my Aussie Falcon race car with the rear wing.
The downforce from the wing at 50 mph was enough to make the trailer lift at the towball [we now remove it when towing]

This tailgate will not be an issue [even if it was solid instead of mesh]

I'm not but thanks.

 

[toofart]

The mesh is tacked on, gate hinges done. Just need to fab up a latch.

Makes a nice ramp, stupidly solid, but there is some merit to what 'rslaback' was saying. The gate is heavy, and while I'm not concerned about balance, usability may be an issue. I really wish I'd have used some lighter material, this ramp doesn't need to be that strong.

We'll see after some usage. Worse case I redesign the tailgate in a few years if it annoys me. I'm learning and having fun, and that's all that matters to me.

 

[jhelrey]

I will second him on the gate. I have a 5x8 aluminum trailer with ramp. If I remove the sides and the gate, there is a major difference in towing. Regardless of vehicle towing it.

 

[kerrynzl]

Put [farm gate] drop locks on it, they're bullet proof and don't rattle. And if they jam you can whack it with a hammer [or wood ]

http://www.hi-tensilebolt.com.au/Chart Drop Pins.html

 

[kerrynzl]

I will second him on the gate. I have a 5x8 aluminum trailer with ramp. If I remove the sides and the gate, there is a major difference in towing. Regardless of vehicle towing it.

That is called the "placebo effect"

If the trailer is panelled in across the front, it is beneficial to the overall economy if the rear tailgate is up [ better still if a rear tailgate is solid ]

having a fold in half tailgate like the above example is a good move.

 

[toofart]

I see lots of trailers like this, with a 4' to 5' ramp. I did not want that.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice looking trailer build. Keep the pics coming.

Mike.

 

[toofart]

Put [farm gate] drop locks on it

I looked online for about 41 seconds but couldn't find where I could buy some locally, so I proceeded to dip into the massive overstock of 3/8's rod that I over-purchased some time ago.

Simple, but effective.

A little dab of weld ensures the latch has a bottom and top stop. Once it's all painted up I'll apply grease to all the moving parts.

I'm not sure how well this will work or how long it will last, but it does keep the gate in place firmly to minimize rattling.

At this point I'm just about done fabrication, next step is cleaning, paint, lights, flooring and done.

 

[CNGsaves]

I've got "store bought" utility mesh trailer similar . . .
(has the big ramp that DOES create airdrag when up . . . ),
and you might copy latches they use.

They are just straight rod on a spring that has cotter keyway that you rotate to either have rod "engaged" in hole in gate . . . or "not engaged" and held out with the spring. These are nice as don't leave something sticking out in walkway of trailer that will catch your leg or just get in way.

 

[toofart]

Paint done, lights & wiring done, jack and safety chains done. Tomorrow I'll go pick up the lumber for the sides and floor.

With the wheels off and the trailer level, I weighed all three corners

Without tailgate:
- tongue 110 lbs
- axle 320 lbs
- total 430 lbs, 25.5% tongue weight

With tailgate
- tongue 50 lbs
- axle 470 lbs
- total 520 lbs, 9.6% tongue weight

Flooring and sides will probably increase tongue weight a percentage or two. I'll re-weigh once it's installed. Still need a spare at the front.

 

[kerrynzl]

Without tailgate 37.2% behind axle 62.8% in front

With tailgate 45.2% behind axle 54.8% in front.

Add a Jockey Wheel to the tongue to put more weight up front.


Over here we would tow a trailer like that [overloaded] behind a Corolla FWD

 

[toofart]

All done. I couldn't weight it since I broke my scale, but I will eventually. I actually used it to go pick up the lumber.

2 coats of paint protect the steel frame from the PT lumber.

I'm not sure how well this Aluminium paint will hold up since it feels soft... we'll see.

SHE'S DONE.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Nice job! I enjoyed your frequent updates and pics! In one of your posts, you commented on how much you enjoyed building your trailer. I'll agree... I really enjoyed building mine too.

 

[kerrynzl]

Don't worry about the paint being soft, That is preferable on machinery.

I built a trailer and the owner wanted a hard 2 pack epoxy! The **** shattered like porcelain with stones.

A local industrial lawnmower manufacturer put me onto PPG single pack industrial enamel.

It's not as shiny as 2-packs but after a year or so it still looks OK.


I'm curious about your use of a tongue jack, in this part of the world they are unacceptable [ I tried them ]
The first thing a buyer does is remove the Tongue jack and replace it with a Jockey wheel.

Now that it is finished, you need to overload it and take it for a spin

 

[toofart]

Nice job! I enjoyed your frequent updates and pics! In one of your posts, you commented on how much you enjoyed building your trailer. I'll agree... I really enjoyed building mine too.

Thanks! Yeah, building this was really satisfying. I prefer to be in the garage doing this stuff than to be sitting watching TV.

A friend of mine from up north was over last weekend and was ready to buy this trailer on the spot. I'm not sure if I even need it (I built it to practice) but I'm really proud of it, so I don't feel like selling it.... not yet anyway.

So I've committed to building a 5.5' x 10' trailer for my friend

 

[koditten]

Absolutely beautiful!

Thanks for taking the time to post the build.

KO

 

[toofart]

Don't worry about the paint being soft, That is preferable on machinery.

Thanks, that reassures me.

I'm curious about your use of a tongue jack, in this part of the world they are unacceptable
Now that it is finished, you need to overload it and take it for a spin

All the small trailers with wheels I've seen around here have busted up jockey wheels that no longer work. This was cheap and sturdy, but it does make moving the trailer around more of a chore.

This weekend I'll load it up and take it for a ride.

 

[toofart]

Absolutely beautiful!

Thanks for taking the time to post the build.

Thanks KO. I learned a lot from your trailer build threads, so thank you.

The least I could do was contribute back.

 

[captain14]

Nice looking trailer and glad you enjoyed building. I will take the time and read through the entire thread slowly. Where will the trailer live since it is done - inside or outside?

 

[CNGsaves]

OP . . . great result on the trailer. So much better than "store bought" mass produced.

Only future improvement I see would be spare tire up in triangle front (horizontal mount), and protective cage for tail lights that might get broken.

Could you post up pics of the tailgate in various positions??

 

[toofart]

Nice looking trailer and glad you enjoyed building. I will take the time and read through the entire thread slowly. Where will the trailer live since it is done - inside or outside?

Thanks. I'm letting the paint and gravel guard cure, then it will live outside.

OP . . . great result on the trailer. So much better than "store bought" mass produced.

Thanks, and I agree, this thing feels sturdy, unlike the store-bought trailers.

Only future improvement I see would be spare tire up in triangle front (horizontal mount), and protective cage for tail lights that might get broken.

That's the plan for the spare. The lights are my least favourite part, as they will get banged up. They're also in the path of road grime being flung from the tires. But they were cheap.

My next one will feature encased lights.

Could you post up pics of the tailgate in various positions??

Sure, will do. Anything specific you're looking for? I'll also fasten some hooks to a 5'x4' sheet of plywood to lay on top of the mesh ramp when deployed. The mesh will be fine for wheeled objects and foot traffic but my snowmobile skis will tear it up in a hurry.

 

[saceone]

belle job!

 

[jaysberman]

I have a pad on my small trailer, so I took a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and put four caster on it, now I can roll any where I want. As long as the trailer is empty.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Thanks! Yeah, building this was really satisfying. I prefer to be in the garage doing this stuff than to be sitting watching TV.

A friend of mine from up north was over last weekend and was ready to buy this trailer on the spot. I'm not sure if I even need it (I built it to practice) but I'm really proud of it, so I don't feel like selling it.... not yet anyway.

So I've committed to building a 5.5' x 10' trailer for my friend

No, no, no! Sell him yours, so you can build a new one with all your new ideas incorporated into the new one!

One small tip, if I may; don't weld your coupling on. Just bolt it, and maybe a couple small tacks. If you ever have to remove it, it will be a lot simpler to remove. Believe it or not, it's easy to bend a coupler if the trailer gets too jacked when backing it up. Not that you would, but someone you lend it to, just might.

Firsthand experience speaking here - so I don't lend my trailer out anymore.

 

[Wanna Ride]

The lights are my least favourite part, as they will get banged up. They're also in the path of road grime being flung from the tires. But they were cheap. My next one will feature encased lights.

Here's a pic of mine. I used 2x4 tubing and recessed LED lights (except the three,rear center lights), and ran all the wiring inside the tubing. This is an older pic, before I mounted the spare tire.

 

[toofart]

belle job!

Merci!

I have a pad on my small trailer, so I took a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and put four caster on it, now I can roll any where I want. As long as the trailer is empty.

I've seen trailer dolleys, seems like something that would be easy to build.

No, no, no! Sell him yours, so you can build a new one with all your new ideas incorporated into the new one!

Yeah, we talked about that, but 5' wide would be a bit tight for what he wants to haul. 5.5' and maybe even 6' wide will better suit his needs.

One small tip, if I may; don't weld your coupling on. Just bolt it, and maybe a couple small tacks. If you ever have to remove it, it will be a lot simpler to remove.

Yeah, roger that. Once I torqued the four 1/2 bolts down I realized that was likely sufficient.

 

[toofart]

Here's a pic of mine.

That thing looks awesome. Seems like you used composite for the decking? What are the dimensions?

 

[BigMike782]

Very nice build!
Keep an eye on the contact between the PT and the steel......the newer ACQ treatment is supposed to be hell on steel or aluminum.

I second selling you buddy this one and build yourself one even better

 

[zmotorsports]

Here's a pic of mine. I used 2x4 tubing and recessed LED lights (except the three,rear center lights), and ran all the wiring inside the tubing. This is an older pic, before I mounted the spare tire.

Did you use Trex on this for the decking by any chance? I have been thinking about doing the same thing and wonder how it would hold up.

Mike.