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My Compressor Aftercooler Install

Mr X

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Feb 20, 2007
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3
I borrowed a lot of ideas from this forum. Hope this helps someone else.

I wanted to install an aftercooler on the compressor because I'm going to do some sand blasting and I eventually want to paint the Jeep myself. For those that don't know, the idea is that the aftercooler lowers the temperature of the air leaving the pump to the point where you can extract the moisture from the air before it enters the tank. This turned into a much larger project than I expected.

The compressor is an 80 gallon two stage from Tractor Supply. The model number is TSN45.

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Here is the cooler I bought. It's a Hayden 1290 heavy duty oil cooler. I've seen some people use the 1260 on compressor setups. This one didn't cost much more; I figured bigger would be better.

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It has 3/4" NPT fittings. A lot of the coolers that are available have 1/4" fittings. The compressor has 1/2" fittings. I was worried that a cooler with smaller fittings might interfere with air flow.

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I also bought a 3/4" auto drain filter from TP Tools. Bonus regulator shot. It's mostly metal, seems to be of decent quality. I can't tell you how well it works yet.

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These rubber things are how you're supposed to mount the cooler.

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They came with T-Nuts and a screw. When you tighten the screw it pushes in on the rubber and causes it to expand. This makes them snug up to the cooler.

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I wanted to have the cooler and filter mount to the compressor so that it is one self contained unit. I figured I needed a frame.

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I ended up widening it more than what is shown below. I didn't like the idea of needing to mount it with a lot of precision, but this gives you an idea of how it went together.

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The frame is the same height as the cooler. I feel like this gives it some level of protection, but I think I'm going to eventually need to make a grill.

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I needed to make some risers for the mounts. Step 1 was a jig.

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Step 2 was cut them all out.

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Step 3 was line them up and attach them.

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The next step was to curse a lot and drill holes (slowly).

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Next I had to figure out somewhere on the compressor to mount this monstrosity.

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Looks about right.

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Drilled it.

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This is the point where I started to get a sense of scale.

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I added a top support that attaches to a bolt on the top of the pump. It shares the mounting point with the belt guard.

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Here it is after being completely welded up and wire wheeled.

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Rustoleum tan is a decent color match.

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And now we need another jig to cut out the actual mounting brackets. I should have done the first jig on the table. It was much better.

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Chopped and drilled.

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And painted. It was very cold out.

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Now it's starting to look like something.

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It didn't tip over!

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Moving onto the filter. I ended up spending a small fortune on brass fittings for this project. If I were to do it again I'm not sure I would have used copper tubing. I also would have bought a filter with 1/2" fittings in order to cut down on the number of adapters I needed.

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Here's where I'm going with this thing. Hopefully all of the condensation drains into the filter because it is the lowest point in the system.

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Cleaned up bracket.

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It apparently takes a while for paint to dry when its 35 degrees outside. Had a little whoopsy.

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Next step was to hook up all the copper tubing. The factory copper uses flared ends (see the picture below). I used compression fittings to attach the copper tube to the cooler and the filter.

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I also ended up using compression unions to attach the new tubing to the old flared ends. It seemed less risky than trying to get the fittings out of the pump and tank. They both have some sort of hardened sealant on them.

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I originally purchased parts to have the pipe exit straight forward from the front. When I subsequently realized I needed an elbow, it resulted in the mess of adapters you see here.

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And here's what it shaped up to look like. I tried to bend the tubing so that everything drains into the filter. Looking at the pictures, it seems I may need to play with the angle of the pipe coming from the pump to make sure it's not draining into the pump. Also, the first time I fired it up, the compression fittings were leaking like sieves. I took them apart and added some thread sealant goop and they seem to be air tight now.

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After working all day to finish, I realized after the store closed that I didn't have a 1/2" to 1/4" fitting to go from the regulator to the hose. :(

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Some good news though: it seems to be working. The tube that comes directly out of the pump heats up to be far too hot to touch while the tube coming out of the cooler is cold. I'll get a temp gun and take some actual measurements later.
 
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machsnell

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Great setup and perfect write up and pics . I need to do something to better cool air at my compressor and might need to go this route. Let me know temps you get under use.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Know Wosad

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Nice project. I think its crazy overkill but hey.Cool project.:thumbup:
I run a CH separator at the compressor, Two drops in the line and then another CH separator on the Mig/Plasma cart. Nary a problem. I also have a water separator/oiler on my tool cart for running air tools.
My biggest problem is the condensation in the hose reels outside so when I fire up in the morning(about now//443 AM) I have to empty two 50 foot 3/8 air reels of last nights condensation. No way around it.I run them all the way out to full extension, blast the air out, clean the hoses up with degrease as I let them return to their reels.Then I check the compressor oils, drain a lil water out of everything and go to work.
OCD sux.But my tools last forever !
 

Hchrist

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S.E. NC
Nice job. Condensation kills tools. People think it's not oiling the air tools that kills them but it is moisture. Dry air is key in the shop.
How much blasting do you think you will be able to do with that compressor? If it's running full bore the after cooler will help but will quickly get temp saturated I think? Maybe the fan will prevent this. I hope so because that's a great set up.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)
 

mr.jake

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Wouldn't having the pump outlet at the bottom of the dryer, and tank inlet at the top be a better design? Then wouldn't need the filter, just a drip leg would work to drain out.
 
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Mr X

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Feb 20, 2007
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Great setup and perfect write up and pics . I need to do something to better cool air at my compressor and might need to go this route. Let me know temps you get under use.

Will do :thumbup:

Nice project. I think its crazy overkill but hey.Cool project.:thumbup:
I run a CH separator at the compressor, Two drops in the line and then another CH separator on the Mig/Plasma cart. Nary a problem. I also have a water separator/oiler on my tool cart for running air tools.
My biggest problem is the condensation in the hose reels outside so when I fire up in the morning(about now//443 AM) I have to empty two 50 foot 3/8 air reels of last nights condensation. No way around it.I run them all the way out to full extension, blast the air out, clean the hoses up with degrease as I let them return to their reels.Then I check the compressor oils, drain a lil water out of everything and go to work.
OCD sux.But my tools last forever !

I really like the idea of having a filter on a cart. Regarding your methodology, can't complain if it works!

Nice job. Condensation kills tools. People think it's not oiling the air tools that kills them but it is moisture. Dry air is key in the shop.
How much blasting do you think you will be able to do with that compressor? If it's running full bore the after cooler will help but will quickly get temp saturated I think? Maybe the fan will prevent this. I hope so because that's a great set up.

The largest blasting project I plan on doing is part of the Jeep tub. Other than that, smaller parts in a blast cabinet. I also plan on running some pneumatic sanders that may give the compressor a workout.

I don't think heat saturation is going to be that much of a problem, but the best laid plans... The flywheel moves a ton of air when the pump is running. Also, the lines depressurize when the pump kicks off. The depressurization should have a cooling effect.

Great write up! Been wanting to do something like this with my Quincy. I think you just gave me the push I've been needing.

Thanks!:thumbup:

Wouldn't having the pump outlet at the bottom of the dryer, and tank inlet at the top be a better design? Then wouldn't need the filter, just a drip leg would work to drain out.

I looked into doing a setup without a filter and just a large water trap, but I ended up going this way because I think it will probably function better for my needs, cost aside. Mostly, I wanted an auto drain, but also, its probably good that it cleans the air a bit. I also may have just succumbed to the marketing ****: "Ideal for auto shops, fabricating shops, plants, or anywhere a full-sized, high-capacity filter is required." That's totally my garage :lol_hitti
 

Hchrist

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Don't think so. If you do it that way the condensation will always settle at the joint where the pump air out meets the cooler. Gravity is how you want to steer the water droplets. Not by blowing the droplets through the cooler against gravity . That's why all air drops in a system terminate, or should, at a drain petcock.
That system should dry the air very well considering the bang for the buck.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)
 

skipnay

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If you don't mind me asking. What do you think you have in parts? Our time for ourselves is free. Our labor is free but the parts we have pay $$$. Wonder if this will be good enough with something that has 80 gallon and like 15cfm @ 90 psi and max psi like 175. Been thinking about getting a bigger air compressor. How is that one for noise?
 

DeltaWye

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Very nice job. I am looking to do something similar soon, only with dedicated fans since my pump and tank will be separated. I just hope that transmission cooler lasts after all the work you put into making the mount. I bought a Hayden cooler to use as well but I have it in the back of my mind that I may have to cough up the money for an AKG at some point.
 

matt_i

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Nicely detailed & finished, I regard the Master Pneumatic brand as a very good one! :thumbup:

I can see a drill press in your future :)
 
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The Tool Tyrant

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Mr. X...Very nice job, but I'm curious as to your design of putting the filter ahead of the receiver rather than after. I've never seen a compressor set-up this way before and I'm curious if this will overload your filter. The receiver also acts as an 'aftercooler of sorts' as it's a large heat sink, thus the reason why the receiver collects so much condensation. You may want to consider installing an automatic drain on your receiver and move the filter to the supply side of the receiver if you find the filter is being overtaxed in your current layout.
Again, nice job!

Tom
 
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duwem

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That one run of copper pipe is pretty long and unsupported...not sure how that will do with vibration long term?
 
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Mr X

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Thanks everyone for the compliments.

If you don't mind me asking. What do you think you have in parts? Our time for ourselves is free. Our labor is free but the parts we have pay $$$. Wonder if this will be good enough with something that has 80 gallon and like 15cfm @ 90 psi and max psi like 175. Been thinking about getting a bigger air compressor. How is that one for noise?

Here is a rough break down:

Metal: ~$20
Hayden 1290: ~$160
Filter: ~$90
10ft coiled copper from Lowes. This is the bendy stuff: ~$30
Brass Fittings and paint: ~$100

So about $400. The copper tubing probably wasn't worth it.

Very nice job. I am looking to do something similar soon, only with dedicated fans since my pump and tank will be separated. I just hope that transmission cooler lasts after all the work you put into making the mount. I bought a Hayden cooler to use as well but I have it in the back of my mind that I may have to cough up the money for an AKG at some point.

I'm hoping that if it develops any cracks I can repair it, but I guess we will see.

Great work. What would happen if you mounted an automotive cooling fan on the compressor pulley? Would it draw more cooling air through your aftercooler?

I haven't had a chance to do a bunch of testing, but I don't think its going to be necessary. The pulleys move a lot of air.

Nice professional looking job , just remember to stock a couple of filter kits

Good idea.

Great write-up. RESIZE YOUR PHOTOS.

Thank you. Isn't 1024x768 pretty small by 2016 standards?

Mr. X...Very nice job, but I'm curious as to your design of putting the filter ahead of the receiver rather than after. I've never seen a compressor set-up this way before and I'm curious if this will overload your filter. The receiver also acts as an 'aftercooler of sorts' as it's a large heat sink, thus the reason why the receiver collects so much condensation. You may want to consider installing an automatic drain on your receiver and move the filter to the supply side of the receiver if you find the filter is being overtaxed in your current layout.
Again, nice job!

Tom

There are a few others floating around who have done it. The results I've read have been pretty positive. The idea is to keep moisture from accumulating in the tank in the first place. I went with a relatively heavy duty filter with the hopes that it could keep up. I would like to put an auto drain on the tank at some point, but for now I just have a ball valve down there. I do also plan on having filters after the tank down the lines to pick up whatever gets missed. I'll update the thread if I end up having problems.

That one run of copper pipe is pretty long and unsupported...not sure how that will do with vibration long term?

I'm not sure either. It feels pretty solid.
 

Motomadness

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Great job. I'm planing on doing the same setup and you just make it easier for me. Just not sure if I'll use the 1260 or 1290 cooler. And please do report back, I'm sure many would like to hear how well this design works.
 

Hchrist

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One thought for folks trying to use an after cooler for removing moisture. Adding a coil like the one here is a great tool for getting moisture to precipitate out of the air. An easy and cheap way to maximize the effect of the cooling coil is to put a large diameter pipe directly after the coil and before the rest of the supply circuit(s) . This slows the air way down and the condensed moisture has more time to drop out of the air. A 6' length of 3" pipe, with a bottom drain, attached to the coil would probably be a good "receptacle" for the moisture.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)
 

btdobie

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Nice write up. I am curious what the pressure rating on an oil cooler is. I've been thinking about making one out of a condenser from a junkyard car, but I like the size of that oil cooler for not a whole lot of money.
 

akdiesel

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One thought for folks trying to use an after cooler for removing moisture. Adding a coil like the one here is a great tool for getting moisture to precipitate out of the air. An easy and cheap way to maximize the effect of the cooling coil is to put a large diameter pipe directly after the coil and before the rest of the supply circuit(s) . This slows the air way down and the condensed moisture has more time to drop out of the air. A 6' length of 3" pipe, with a bottom drain, attached to the coil would probably be a good "receptacle" for the moisture.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)

This is the second reason for the main tank, although moisture sitting in the tank will cause corrosion so it is best to try and remove as much moisture before the main tank to prolong the life of the tank and using auto drains is also a preventative measure.
The Hayden coolers work very well in that they have inlet and outlet sizes in ranges of 3/8" - 1" and create a swirl effect for the air flow to help cool the air.
 

Hchrist

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The second large tank will do the same thing as a large-ish pipe for sure. If one doesn't have a second tank or wishes to remove moisture prior to having it settle out in their tank the pipe is an inexpensive alternative/addition.
I have an 80 gal tank on a shelf that's about 7' above the floor. The compressor that feeds it is on the floor below and I was lamenting the idea of having to remove the tank whenever it rusts out. Maybe the pipe idea will prolong that job which I'm all for.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)
 

skipnay

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Wondering how this is working and is it still keeping moisture out of the air compressor and your tools?
 

04chase

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nice work on the install a bit overkill on amount of support that cooler needed IMO i think it could have been engineered slightly better. The gap between the cooler and fan is too large and air will choose the path of least resistance which is not thgough the cooler = there will not be much flow through the cooler. Putting it closer to the cage or fan would be much more efficient. Running a bigger cooler may seem like a good idea if it fit in the area nearest the fan. Id be willing to bet the smaller cooler that would fit closer to the fan would remove more heat rather than the larger cooler with less air flow. you could make a shroud or duct surrounding the cage to the cooler forcing air to be pulled through the cooler.
 

ToddW

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Nice write-up and work but holy #%*(@% you have way more $$ into that than I do the HF Electric Air Dryer, as well as my filter, water separator, etc... which are not HF.

Heat soak WILL be an issue.

Again, nice work but there are MUCH better and cheaper options out there to accomplish this.
 

Hchrist

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When someone posts about a build they are doing, or perhaps did, they are NOT asking for advice. They are simply posting their project for the members to look at. Folks that post critical replies are out of place. I don't understand these "experts". Posting a suggestion may be OK but to say this or that is bad or wrong or incorrect etc isn't necessary.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)
 

Schurkey

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When someone posts about a build they are doing, or perhaps did, they are NOT asking for advice. They are simply posting their project for the members to look at. Folks that post critical replies are out of place. I don't understand these "experts". Posting a suggestion may be OK but to say this or that is bad or wrong or incorrect etc isn't necessary.
Might as well point out mistakes and inefficiency so the folks who use the thread for inspiration don't copy them, too.
 

ToddW

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When someone posts about a build they are doing, or perhaps did, they are NOT asking for advice. They are simply posting their project for the members to look at. Folks that post critical replies are out of place. I don't understand these "experts". Posting a suggestion may be OK but to say this or that is bad or wrong or incorrect etc isn't necessary.

Galaxy S4, Slimkat
If I wasn't married I'd quit fishing :)

You're out of place for telling folk how they can reply why don't you stay in your 'safe place' if you can't handle criticism, especially the accurate type. It doesn't take an "expert" just someone with more experience to help others make a smart choice.

Might as well point out mistakes and inefficiency so the folks who use the thread for inspiration don't copy them, too.


That is EXACTLY why I made the reply I did.

I've made that mistake in the past! You're searching the Internet of things to learn something, stumble upon many ideas and wow you're blown away by awesome fab work, and the idea seems solid... but you're new to it, you go down the wrong path to just re-do it in a few months. It's a terrible feeling, and a truly huge waste of money.
 
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