To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

My dream 60x96x16

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Whoever would have thought that a "******" job paid so well. :lol:

Fantastic building!!! Oh hell.....SUPER fantastic building. :rocker:

If I had something that large, I could take momma out for a Sunday drive and never have to worry about the weather :lol::lol:
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
They blew the insulation in on Fri. I let the "dust" settle and went up there just now to check it out. Around 16-17" so it should be around r38.

evyze6uh.jpg


yremety6.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
The perma-columns are made from three 2x6's glued and nailed together and then ran thru a planer to make a smooth 6x6. It is attached to a U shaped piece of steel that is fastened to a 6x6x60" piece of reinforced concrete. I went with these so there would be no wood below grade. On my dad's building, we have replaced several 6x6's that had rotted off at the concrete slab. I'd prefer to never do this again.
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
They got my steps to the loft installed today.

u3a7uzes.jpg


Toilet and Sink installed along with osb in bathroom and mechanical rooms.

mu5ady4u.jpg


Future location of work bench and air reel.

enymume2.jpg


RV 30 amp hook up along with water and sewer hook up

erytyhej.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

luke7734

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
276
Location
Crestline, Ohio
Pic of perma-column

y2u2a9a8.jpg

:headscrat If your in Ohio I figured you'd of used the tri-ply post with the treated lowers. My 6x6 post are 5' in the ground and the first 8-12 feet are treated then stagger out to regular 2x6's (all triple stacked of course). My longest posts were 32' long if I recall. 17' truss height. 4-12 pitch makes her about 26' tall +5' in the ground.

On a more worrying note.... did you just use the foil under the slab or put down some other type of insulation? Vapor barrier is a huge plus, but you've gotta keep that cold away from your slab. Anyways, dont be disappointed if it takes a week to get that bad boy heated up.. if you don't have the heat on yet it's gonna be tough bringing that slab up from 30°. Especially since its supposed to be a high of like 9 on Thursday I think. :spit:

All in all it looks like a sweet little garage ya got there... ;) how central are you? I'm directly between Cleveland and cbus.. if you're not too far from me you're more than welcome to come check out my system and building. :thumbup:

Ps. Sub'd
 
Last edited:

MSD Shop

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
194
Location
Bend , OR.
I sure can appreciate a lot of the touches you did. I'm jealous that yours is almost done and I just started :( . I will be watching this one for sure. Subscribed :D
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Miller Brothers Construction built my building and are finishing the interior. I purchased my doors locally. They are r-17 and 16w x 14'h. I'd be happy to give you $ amounts in a private message.

Where are you located bosty2 ?

Are Miller Brothers Amish? Just curious as we have some Amish by that name up north of me.

Great building BTW. WHo am I kidding...a FANTASTIC building and one to be very proud of. ANd a fellow Buckeye to boot :thumbup: Lots of us one here and probably quite a few from your area M.V if I'm correct.
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
We used double insulation with the foil side down. What we used is a vapor barrier so we should be good there. The slab was above 35* yesterday so I'm optimistic that it's going to heat well. He got the boiler hung and started plumbing it yesterday.

hyny4a3a.jpg


We live NE of Centerburg about 15 miles. The Miller Brothers have a Menonite background.

Thanks for all the compliments on my build, it's a dream come true. Without Gods blessings it sure wouldn't have been possible.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

luke7734

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
276
Location
Crestline, Ohio
We used double insulation with the foil side down. What we used is a vapor barrier so we should be good there.

He got the boiler hung and started plumbing it yesterday.

hyny4a3a.jpg


Tapatalk

Your saying you used that bubble wrap stuff, and doubled it up? I know they tried to get me to use that on mine, but I opted for the spray foam instead under the slab (since i was doing the entire shell anyways). Do you know any R values of that stuff off hand?? and how thick it is?? :confused:

Also HOLY BOILER BATMAN :bounce: What's the BTU rating on that bad boy!! :thumbup: and is it LP or NG??

PS.. I was really hoping that the lines you had hooked up in previous images were just air testing lines.. I was going to have to say something :lol_hitti I was just thinking in my head.. "Luke.. He's not going to run 1/2" lines to feed like 20 runs of 5/8 piping.. no way... "
?? who is installing your radiant ?? are you doing it yourself ??
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
Thanks.

I told my wife that building the building this size would pay for it self eventually with the gas savings since I'd be mowing less yard! I don't think she saw my logic, but she didn't tell me not to build it either!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
I don't recall the r value of the insulation under the slab. It's around 3/8" thick, more there as vapor barrier and to reflect the heat up. I have all of this installed by a local contractor. I did help tie the tubing to the mesh, but I'll leave the engineering and plumbing to the experts. The boiler is lp fired and 155,000btu.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

luke7734

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
276
Location
Crestline, Ohio
I'm not an expert by any means, and I really hate making negative comments, but why not go with a bigger boiler system? 60x96x16 with 75 degree temp swings (Ohio) would call for about 195,000 btu.. there are calculators all over the net to determine this stuff..

that being said.. It told me that I needed 100,000 btu boiler to heat my building.. I'm running a 75k unit (outdoor wood boiler) which is keeping my building at 71degs easily.. So just some food for thought. Keep the contractor's number if your not satisfied with your heating abilities. ;) Hopefully it won't be an issue. You insulated very well other than under the slab. This will speak volumes to heat that big boy..

Looking great on the other hand!! wish i could have gone that big on mine.. $$ talks..
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,060
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Chad, nice big shop you have there. You're not far from Luke and myself, seeing that you are in Mt Vernon.

You should add a link (of your build) and put it in your signature.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
Luke.
I don't feel your comments are negative at all. I appreciate the questions and dialogue. I have multiple reasons why I went with the size of boiler I did. Too many to type at the moment but I will share my thoughts later.
Got to get back to work.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
The reasons I went with the 155,000 btu boiler:

After multiple designers and installers looked at my building project they all came back with multiple ideas. With the r21 in the walls, r38 in ceiling, 2 r17 16x14 overhead doors, 1 man door and no windows the heat loss was calculated and the 155,000 btu boiler was deemed sufficient. I realize the "double bubble" insulation under the slab doesn't have a high r value, but I had multiple people that have buildings with slab heat say a high r value isn't really necessary. Something that reflects the heat up was more important. Hopefully this is correct.

After listening to designers and engineers I always like to look at real world applications and see what has worked for others. It seems that some engineers like too over engineer floor heat, in my opinion. Some want 6" spacing for several runs all around the outside perimeter and in front of doors and others say it doesn't make much difference.

I have multiple friends with buildings that floor heat. One has a 60x195x16 that has 1" foam under his slab with a 140,000 btu boiler that is 10+ years old. He only has tubing in the front 60x85 and I've never noticed the back 30' being a different temperature. It is always comfortable in his shop. Another friend has a 60x80x16 with a 135,000 btu boiler and his works great.

Luke....you kinda answered you own question when you stated that the engineer said you needed a 100,000 btu for your building, but your 75,000 btu furnace is doing great at 71*.

I will keep mine in the 58* range. I can't say how mine works yet, but I'm hopeful that it will do fine.

The installer got a some more of the "works" mounted today. I think it's coming along nicely. I took some blank electric covers and cut a hole and put them around where my 1" air lines come thru the walls to give it a "cleaner" look. I like the way it turned out.

Thanks everybody for the kind words and questions. I realize not everybody agrees but don't feel bad about saying something if you don't like or agree. I'm sure there is something in your garage/building I don't like. ;)

jy4uvebe.jpg


a3uzasy7.jpg
 

luke7734

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
276
Location
Crestline, Ohio
Like the look of the outlet covers. :thumbup: yeah if you're over insulating the btu rating can drop significantly imho... loving the build. Hope we get a chance to meet up sometime. Love the thread. I'll be following along for the duration.
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
I put up 4 hose reels today, 2 with 1/2" 50' hoses and 2 with 3/8" 50' hoses. The crew will be back tomorrow to do more work on boiler plumbing. Should have some heat soon.

My biggest advice to anyone that is planning a build. Make sure you put extra boards, 2x8's where you might want to hang heavy items in the future. So far, my plans have worked out. Take a lot of pictures and measurements for reference before you finish the interior walls.

asedazun.jpg
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,060
Location
Northern Central Ohio
I saw earlier that you had the airlines in the walls and now, you're bringing it through the walls. Where is your compressor located ? In the mechanical room ?
 

Bob Heine

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,707
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
I put up 4 hose reels today, 2 with 1/2" 50' hoses and 2 with 3/8" 50' hoses. The crew will be back tomorrow to do more work on boiler plumbing. Should have some heat soon.

My biggest advice to anyone that is planning a build. Make sure you put extra boards, 2x8's where you might want to hang heavy items in the future. So far, my plans have worked out. Take a lot of pictures and measurements for reference before you finish the interior walls.

asedazun.jpg
I probably did mine wrong but I put the female quick connect on the wall outlet and the male quick connect on the hose. That way I don't need the shutoff valve at the outlet. I know I would forget to close the valve, disconnect the hose and have air blasting all over the place.
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
Yes sir. The air compressor will be located in the mechanical room. From there, 1" black iron pipe was run up into attic and then down the walls to 3 locations. There is also another location right "outside" the mechanical room.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
Big progress today!
Got the boiler up and running. Floor temp was 33* out in the middle of the building, four hours later it's 41* with an outside temp of 16*. Should have waited till next Tues, the high is supposed to be -5*!! Not!! I'm ready for Spring!

4ezu4y6y.jpg


myganyny.jpg



Also got the hot water tank in operation.

esumyvaj.jpg


The 1/2" air line with gauge outside mechanical room. Air compressor will be in mechanical room on the other side of this. Should have compressor in a couple weeks.

bemy7edu.jpg
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
I probably did mine wrong but I put the female quick connect on the wall outlet and the male quick connect on the hose. That way I don't need the shutoff valve at the outlet. I know I would forget to close the valve, disconnect the hose and have air blasting all over the place.


Makes since.... After this pic was taken I actually took the quick connect off and connected it directly to 1x1/2" bushing since the fitting on end of the hose would spin. I'm hoping the hoses don't leak. The fittings on all four hoses spun so I'm assuming they were supposed to.
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
Thanks MSD Shop.

I was fortunate to find a guy that does electric, plumbing, and the boiler system. Made my life easier coordinating since all I had to deal with was the builder and him.
Both have been great to work with. An example of how attention to detail he is, every screw in each outlet or switch cover is straight vertical.
Kind of funny when I noticed it, all mine in our house are straight horizontal, so I think I hired the right guy!
 

RedBKM

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2012
Messages
236
Location
Central Virginia
Nice looking shop. Mech room looks great. Nice detail on the pipe insulation and organization. You have chosen your crew wisely. My only change would be to paint that OSB white before installing anything.

What is the timer for that is shown to the right of the hot water tank?

Also vertical screw slots are proper on the cover plates. Horizontal holds dirt!
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
RedKBM
Thank You. I would have preferred the Osb been painted and if it's done now it will be next to impossible with everything on the wall. I didn't get it painted because it had turned to cold to have painted and didn't want to hold up the contractors. I will probably paint the bathroom after everything heats up.
The timer is for my LED security light and a can light above the man door in porch ceiling, both can be turned off individually with the switches below the timer.
Guess I'll have my daughter change all the switch covers screws in the house. LoL
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
With outside temp if 3* this morning and the boiler running now 24 hours the floor temp has went from 33* to 50*. I'm pretty happy with the first 24 hours of operation. For an almost 6000 sq ft building and the outside air temp getting to around 13* today, I'd say the boiler is doing ok.
This is the floor after hosing it down 14 minutes ago.

2emuteqa.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
S

Sims5

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
423
Location
Mount Vernon, OH
Less than 48 hours since turning the boiler on and the thermometer on the wall says 63*. I'd say the boiler is working good. I'm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom