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My epoxy lessons learned

G M

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Jun 10, 2005
Messages
114
Location
Winnipeg
Just finished up my 1000 sq ft project last night. I didnt buy into the 100% solids hype(everything is 100% solid once its dry right? :p) so I went with ICI Devfloor 224HS and Devthane 379UVA.


I read alot on this site and some of which helped and some of which created problems. I will share with you the problems. One the problems was my fault due to rushing.


1. Always read the labels of the two cans you are about to mix together, don't mix a gallon of clear with a gallon of color, that was a $150 mistake on my part.

2. Don't use the floor as a paint tray, use a paint tray. I found if you pour the epoxy onto the floor then roll it out it creates globs and makes it harder to roll.

3. I would highly recommend NOT using grit additive, for sure not with 379UVA, can't comment on other product. I added the Rustoluem grit addtive to my clear, mixed VERY thoroughly, poured clear on floor, spread out, mixed more, poured on floor, by the end of the pail there was a much larger concentration of grit which became very visible on the floor. I decided to go over it with another coat of clear, ANOTHER $150 to fix this mistake. On top of all this I found that the grit was totally unneeded as I had put flakes down on the floor, and I am in the most likely climate that would cause slips on the floor and I have a heated floor!

4. Practice make perfect, if possible help someone else with their floor before doing yours, you will learn alot of good tips to make your floor turn out even better :p

5. I didn't find the need to remove masking tape immeadiately after painting as I have seen mentioned on here. The tape came off fine the next day, I was using green painters masking tape.

6. If you have walls or curbs you need to apply flake to, paint those areas first, DO NOT paint the floor and then as soon as you can apply flakes, if possible within 5 mins of applying paint. Sweep up flakes that didnt stick and then paint floor.

7. Just throw up flakes in air and let them fall to distribute, don't waste your time making a shaker.

8. Plywood and screws make excellent spike shoes. Duct tape them to your feet and you are good to go. I wasted a couple hours trying to find used golf shoes in thrift stores. Plywood and short screws is all you need.



Hopefully some of my mistakes will help other to achieve a nicer floor and don't skimp on a respirator
 
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G M

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Messages
114
Location
Winnipeg
I couldn't manage to get any decent pictures, but here you go, looks like any other floor, tan with white, gray and black flakes. The garage is divided up into 3 rooms, I did these two the first, the third room which I did last turned out way better, and just my luck it is the one that will get seen the least. I figure my cost before mistakes was about .75 cents a sq ft (Canadian dollars) in the states it would probably be about .50 cents. So far I am very pleased with the ICI stuff.

DSCN00044.jpg


DSCN00034.jpg
 

JD in DFW

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Oct 6, 2007
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387
Location
Dallas/Fort Worth
Ain't doin garages fun!!
Looks good. Glad it worked out for ya in the end...enjoy. I love the line about the homemade spiked shoes! My guys would quit on the spot if I broke a pair of those out....that was classic. You could probably market those to installers in certain southern states!:bounce:
 

nissan_crawler

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Jan 12, 2008
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9,638
Location
Wichita, KS
8. Plywood and screws make excellent spike shoes. Duct tape them to your feet and you are good to go. I wasted a couple hours trying to find used golf shoes in thrift stores. Plywood and short screws is all you need.

HA! Glad to hear I'm not the only cheap *******. I got the idea because I do stain and varnish that way (laying the trim piece on the screws then doing the other side)
 
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Plywood and screws make excellent spike shoes. Duct tape them to your feet and you are good to go. I wasted a couple hours trying to find used golf shoes in thrift stores. Plywood and short screws is all you need.

What ever works is great but I use Garden Spikes that I find for $9.95 and they last for a long time. They also aerate the lawn when you cut it! Be careful they are slippery at First!:)
 

'the epoxy floor guy'

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Aug 30, 2008
Messages
162
Location
Iowa
GM,

Your Floor looks VERY good. I am NOT in any way trying to pick on you. I am using your pic in order to demonstrate what "nit-Picky" sheen issues you can solve by using my LAWN MOWER technique.

lawnmower.jpg


See the circled areas, These 'shinny' spots could have been avoided by using this technique.

This floor looks GOOD, but adding the Lawn Mower would make it PERFECT!!!

For Instructions on Exactly HOW Visit thread here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25181

Again I am NOT trying to pick on you. You just gave me a pic to demonstrate the benefits of using my technique. :thumbup:
 
OP
G

G M

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Messages
114
Location
Winnipeg
Yup I know where the bad areas are. I think another thing I should have done was to turn the heat off on the floor sooner and let it cool off more before painting. The epoxy was drying fast, by the time I had finished laying it down if I had gone over it again as suggested I would be pulling it up with the roller.

I figure the floor will have a uniform look soon enough since I use this garage for working in but the whole purpose of this thread is to lhelp the DIYers complete their projects with better results.
 
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elmariachi

Active member
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
26
Location
Houston, Urban Combat Zone
Your floor looks great. I just finished mine with 224/379, light beige with earthtone flakes. Three of my neighbors have stopped in to ask if I would do theirs (ain't happening.) My wife is having a baby shower Saturday and asked if she could just open the door to the garage and have the food serving tables setup in my garage, its that nice.
I'm :pimpflash:pimpflash:pimpflash

I agree, anyone can do this if you do a little reading and are thorough in your prep and planning.
 
OP
G

G M

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Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Messages
114
Location
Winnipeg
Nope, thorough cleaning and an acid etch.

It takes a little playing around with the acid to learn how it works and how much to apply and let it sit for.
 
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