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My fabrication shop. YEAH!

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StumpXJ

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Messages
485
Location
Decatur, Georgia
Jaysin, that electric bender is **** man. I built a couple of the go trike benders for my pops and I with air over hydraulic, but yours is WAY cooler. Looking forward to seeing that in action.

~ James (secretely wishing I had a CNC pasma too) Clegg.
 
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JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
85
Wow, it's been a way long time since I posted updates and I still don't have much for you, just been busy with work and life stuff. I did get a shelf built for my stereo stuff to get it off of a floor standing shelf and free up space to put other stuff.

3906440191_feb18b6071_b.jpg


We are also in the process of designing my cabinets and I will definitely post all that up when we get there. I'm looking at building 1-2 clamshell cabinets 4'x4' that I can store rattle cans and whatnot in the doors and then 1-2 more 4'x4' standard cabinets as well as a 4' tall 8' long standard cabinet, they will all be simple but nicely finished plywood. If people are interested in the process of building the cabinets let me know and I'll post all that as well.

Thanx
Jaysin
 

valiant100SM

Member
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
13
Please do post the cabinet details - I may have some of that work to do on my (pending) garage, too. Plus, I just love seeing pics of your place!

Clair
 

Steevo

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Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
8,738
Location
43.49600, -112.04300
Jaysin,
I noticed that you mentioned Woodcrafters in Sacto, and wondered if your shop might be somewhere in the No Calif vicinity? I currently work in Sacto and live in a neighboring community, and would be very interested in possibly visiting your shop someday if you are of a mind to entertain visitors.

Secondly, I wanted to say that it is very interesting watching the progress on your shop, as what I see is the difference between someone building a shop and someone creating a workspace. You are definately in the latter group, and what you have done is both aesthetically pleasing and functional, and your projects are all well thought out from the "how well will this function for me in my daily work-flow" perspective.
I LOVE your welding table, and want to copy it!

Thanks for sharing,

Steevo
 

Daniel Dudley

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Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
3,546
Now you may just think that it wasn't the glue itself that failed but where the joints had come apart there was no wood transfer at the joint. Now my father went a talked to the boys at Woodcrafters in Sacto and the two guys working that day both said the Gorilla Glue will not hold up to water or to the wood swelling and contracting due to moisture. We had specifically chose the Gorilla Glue because it said on the bottle that it was 100% waterproof, well that seems like a crock to me.

Jaysin



Sometimes with extremely dry wood, you have to moisten the wood surfaces to get gorilla glue to set and stick properly, as it needs the moisture. Maybe this was the problem ?
 
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JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
85
Hi there guys, it's been a damn long time since I up dated anything here but I told you that I would post about the cabinets that we were going to build.

Well it finally happened. We're not quite finished with the install but we have three of the five up and should be doing the others next weekend if I can get over this damn cold.

Here we go.

Because these are shop cabinets and not house cabinets they are all screwed together and we used this nifty drill fixture to do a lot of the front edging treatment. which is 3/4" x1" poplar so that the edge of the 3/4" plywood doesn't show.

4226355217_cb5565cb52_b.jpg


The doors all have this little routed in finger notch at the bottom inside edge for the handle so that the doors are nice and smooth.

4226354169_91a3151dc1_b.jpg


Here is the paint can holding door cabinet before it was stained. Sorry I didn't get more construction pictures, it's hard to stop the assembly line when my father, wife and myself get going.

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They are stained with the same stain I used on the outside of the shop but instead of putting it on thick we wiped it on with rags and then wiped the excess off.

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This is the paint can holding cabinet.

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I'll take more pictures when we get the rest installed. The one that you see without doors need to have the doors trimmed because they were just a hair to snug and wouldn't close past each other and have the same gap around the edges of the doors, my father is a bit of a perfectionist and wouldn't leave it be. I think that they are turning out real well and it will be super to have places to put all of my bits and pieces so that I don't have to stare at a messy workbench all the time.

Until next time (and I'll try to make it a shorter wait), Thanx for playing along.
Jaysin
 

Nostraquedeo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
501
It looks like from the inside, there are some dings in your steel barn doors. Are those just apparent on the inside, or are they showing on the outside too?
 

McRae

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Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
114
Just read through it all. You sir, has THE best looking shop on the forum, period!

Thanks for taking the time to post it all,

Cheers,

Mac
 

Rodger

Active member
Joined
Jul 24, 2006
Messages
25
Hey Jaysin,

Looking at the pics of your welding table...how does the combination of casters and adjustable feet work when you want to move the table? Do you screw the feet up and lower the table onto the wheels to roll it?

I want to build a moveable welding table and I may "steal" your design!

BTW...totally awesome shop!!

Rodger
 

galwaytt

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Joined
Oct 16, 2009
Messages
94
Location
Galway, Ireland
Jaysin, first of - excellent work !

Funny about the Gorilla glue - I've heard people swear by it too !

I know a few have chimed in re the column, and it's a situation I come across quite often - and you're right, the alternative is humungous. We did a 11m long ridge beam, simply supported at each end, for simple 7 deg roof, and it ended up being 600mm x 250mm in section. Actually, it wasn't that expensive - €1500 - but the freight (from Austria !) was !

Your situation is exacerbated by a big ope in the gable as well, it'd take a lot more crippling and linteling, over, to take something like that as well ........the other alternative could have been, in the same postion as your post - a scissor truss, carried on the walls.

All moot now though, but I think a jib crane would be a godsend too, so you there are no bad choices, only different ones !
 
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JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
85
Very cool shop! Have you started working on the crane yet?

I have started work on the crane and I will start posting that up soon. Hopefully in the next couple three weeks.

Just read through it all. You sir, has THE best looking shop on the forum, period!

Thanks for taking the time to post it all,

Cheers,

Mac

All I can say is WOW and thank you.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3017/2823256038_a3b2606909_b.jpg
In that picture what are the black things in the joist hangers?

The black things you refer to are my blocking that goes between the upper rear roof rafters above the ridge beam. With the clerestory windows in front of the ridge beam the standard wood rafter blocking was going to block a lot of natural light . I designed this metal "blocking" so that the light could come into the rear of the shop over the top of the ridge beam. Here's the picture so everyone can see what we are referring to.

2823256038_a3b2606909_b.jpg


You have some serious fab skills... what do you do for a living?

I'll give you one guess.

Hey Jaysin,

Looking at the pics of your welding table...how does the combination of casters and adjustable feet work when you want to move the table? Do you screw the feet up and lower the table onto the wheels to roll it?

I want to build a moveable welding table and I may "steal" your design!

BTW...totally awesome shop!!

Rodger

You totally have the functionality of the table down. When I need to move the table I screw the feet up and roll it away. The feet also allow me to level the table top so that I can use a level and angle finders when doing fab work.

Jaysin, first of - excellent work !

Funny about the Gorilla glue - I've heard people swear by it too !

I know a few have chimed in re the column, and it's a situation I come across quite often - and you're right, the alternative is humungous. We did a 11m long ridge beam, simply supported at each end, for simple 7 deg roof, and it ended up being 600mm x 250mm in section. Actually, it wasn't that expensive - €1500 - but the freight (from Austria !) was !

Your situation is exacerbated by a big ope in the gable as well, it'd take a lot more crippling and linteling, over, to take something like that as well ........the other alternative could have been, in the same postion as your post - a scissor truss, carried on the walls.

All moot now though, but I think a jib crane would be a godsend too, so you there are no bad choices, only different ones !

I'm glad someone understands. It was a matter of what worked best. If I went to a solid ridge beam the door openings just couldn't be in the end walls where they are (according to the engineer). And trusses bring the ceiling height down too low for me, if I raised the walls to cope with the low ceiling truss problem then the county required the walls be engineered because they were over ten feet. Etc, etc...

Thanx to everyone for the compliments. :beer:
Jaysin
 

BlindViper

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Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
1,304
Location
York, PA
I am talking about the black fasteners in the joist hangers holding up your roof.
 
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BRUISER

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
281
Location
Raleigh, NC
I am talking about the black fasteners in the joist hangers holding up your roof.

so is he..

look at his pic you will see the black metal in the pic..
they are there to let light in from the 2 different roof pitches.

hope this helps you understand
2810137992_b9cf571ca5_b.jpg
 

nzm.031

Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2009
Messages
17
Location
East Maitland, NSW, Australia
i just read all 10 pages and this place is incredible... it all looks so neat and tidy, every piece is perfect... im sad now that i have reached the last page, but happy that there will be more pics.

its nice to see a clean, well organised, working fab shop, so few around that it becomes stereotyped that any shop that is worked in must be messy and unorganised.

great work, thanks for the inspiration.
 

BlindViper

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
1,304
Location
York, PA
Those black things aren't attached to the joist hanger holding up the roof. I was just curious as to what the black fasteners are. They appear to be screws the fasteners that are made for those brackets are nails and lag screws both having a galvanized coating.
 

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BRUISER

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
281
Location
Raleigh, NC
Those black things aren't attached to the joist hanger holding up the roof. I was just curious as to what the black fasteners are. They appear to be screws the fasteners that are made for those brackets are nails and lag screws both having a galvanized coating.

oh you mean the little screw heads.. hahaha .. Now I see what you are talking about..
 
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JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
85
oh you mean the little screw heads.. hahaha .. Now I see what you are talking about..

ya the screws aren't shear rated which is not good for the load of a roof

The Simpson Tie joist hangers have nails in them, they are the code required 1 1/2" 16 penny box nails that just happen to not be galvanized (bare steel). Screws are for decks and sheet rock and if you think that I would go through all the trouble to build this shop as nicely as I have only to have my roof fall off, that's just silly. :beer:

Sloper0204, the Wasatch logo it actually on a long sleeve t-shirt that I wish they still made because it is twice as thick as a regular t-shirt and is one of my favorites. On the back it says "We drink our share and sell the rest". I'll try to remember to post a pic of the doors that have naturally rusted. One end of the building get the prevailing winds and therefore gets rained on and the other end is still just bare steel.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 
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JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
85
Very nice shop, looking forward to see the doors once you finish the rust treatment.

Well Sloper, since you asked about the doors, here they are...

4312266825_9d91814e35_b.jpg


Sorry about the shadows and whatnot, this time of year the sun is always so low in the sky that the doors only catch full sun for about 15 minutes a day. As a side note, the doors on the other end of the shop are still bare unrusted steel, there are definitely windward and leeward ends of the building.

4313003578_e71dd65809_b.jpg


And I thought, as long as I am posting I should post the pictures of all of the cabinets now that they are installed. The first two over my workbench are 48" and 36" wide.

4312264127_05d8ef7cee_b.jpg


These are on the opposite wall at the other end of the shop. They are all 48" wide and the far end one has small shelves built into the doors for all my rattle cans (as you can see in the second picture). And all of the cabinets are 18" deep.

4313000690_5907255712_b.jpg


4312264743_99a13c036a_b.jpg


All of the cabinets have adjustable shelves so that as I start to fill them I can raise or lower them as I need. They are all stained with the same semi-solid stain that I used on the outside of the building, except here we just wiped it on and rubbed it in a bit before wiping off the excess.

Hopefully after this weekend I will have a very exciting update for you all, it will have to do with heavy lifting (about 2000 lbs worth). Stay tuned.

As always, thanx for watching.
Jaysin
 

BlindViper

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Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Messages
1,304
Location
York, PA
The Simpson Tie joist hangers have nails in them, they are the code required 1 1/2" 16 penny box nails that just happen to not be galvanized (bare steel). Screws are for decks and sheet rock and if you think that I would go through all the trouble to build this shop as nicely as I have only to have my roof fall off, that's just silly. :beer:

Sloper0204, the Wasatch logo it actually on a long sleeve t-shirt that I wish they still made because it is twice as thick as a regular t-shirt and is one of my favorites. On the back it says "We drink our share and sell the rest". I'll try to remember to post a pic of the doors that have naturally rusted. One end of the building get the prevailing winds and therefore gets rained on and the other end is still just bare steel.

Thanx,
Jaysin

I didnt think you would, they look black in the pictures. So I just figured I would make sure. Believe it or not I have see much much worse.
 

trust

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2006
Messages
55
Location
Northern New Mexico
Sensational! absolutely sensational, thank you so very much for sharing it. I can't wait to see the crane, I'm sure it will be a work of art as well.

One thought to offer, in a past life I did some work with some laser experiments and we used massive tables that had to be ultra stable, they all had zillions of tapped holes in the surface for affixing mirror holder and such, have you thought about that for your welding table? Obviously they would need to be larger but for clamping pieces or jigs firmly to the table top they might be useful

outstanding thread, I'm looking forward to the next installment
 
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JaysinSpaceman

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Jan 1, 2008
Messages
85
OK, so I have a bit of a big update for you guys with a bunch of pictures (so if you don’t like pictures then go away). As I have said in past about my shop, and in particular about the big post in the middle of it, I am going to build myself a crane. Why? Well for one it makes great use of the post that is otherwise in the way in the middle of the floor. And two, I work by myself almost all of the time and I really need something besides my back to do the heavy lifting.

I have spent several nights (lots) since the completion of the building itself doing research and working through calculations with my father (the civil engineer) on the design of this crane. What we came up with is a crane that we rate at 1 ton (2000 lbs.) which should be more then sufficient for most everything that I need to lift (engines, trannys, large weldments, etc…).

The post is already in, so my crane will need to clamshell around the post instead of the usual slip over the top. I cut these rings on my plasma table and then welded the rings into these collars. The rollers are made from 3” round bar with a ¾” axle made from a bolt.

The upper collar.
4317867970_363e080e63_b.jpg

The lower collar.
4317866978_579fa5c58d_b.jpg

All of the ½” holes that you see in the top and bottom flanges will have ½” rod dropped through them and be welded top and bottom.

This is a set of pictures from the mock up of the collars so that the vertical separator bar could be positioned and welded in place. We also fit the I-beam mostly just for shits-n-giggles but also to measure the length for the upper tie rod.
4317137231_eb2dcc213b_b.jpg


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This next shot is of the underside of the thrust surface for the crane to ride on. Again I designed and cut the parts with the plasma table and then welded them in place. The bottom of the lower collar will sit on this with a bit of grease between them to aid in slipperiness.
4317866074_e49a92f2f3_b.jpg


Just a shot of the collars painted an awaiting their rollers and install.
4317865198_d8129bf6fc_b.jpg


And last but not least for this post is the I-beam itself, half painted (just primer)
4317138851_f553e3e3fe_b.jpg


In the next post I will show the assembly and “testing” of the crane.

Jaysin
 
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JaysinSpaceman

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Jan 1, 2008
Messages
85
Alright, now for the fun stuff.

I missed the shot of us hoisting the collar up in place, mostly because my father and I had our hands full and my wife hadn’t come out to shoot pictures yet, silly me. But here I am bolting the two halves of the upper clamshell together. The upper is a bit difficult to assemble because it also has extra clips over and around the joint that help to ensure a very strong joint as the upper is in tension instead of compression like the lower collar.
4317873872_4d95b0f6f4_b.jpg


We decided to use the hoist (the one that will eventually end up in use on the crane) to lift the I-beam into place instead of trying to muscle it up there.
4317143019_c60c42891f_b.jpg


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After I bolted the I-beam in place I threw a level up and using a spacer under the end of the level closest to the pole leveled it up. What was the spacer for, you ask? I wanted to give the I-beam about ½” slope from end to pole so that when there is a load hanging the trolley wouldn’t want to roll out to the end of the crane and when unloaded the trolley would stay at the pole end where I wouldn’t walk into it constantly.
4317883704_cae61c53c0_b.jpg


With the I-beam in place the final dimension could be taken for the tie rod and I could weld the ends in place. Once that was done the ends were secured with ¾” grade 8 fasteners.
4317152171_e54ec1fba4_b.jpg


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Now I just need to hang the trolley and hoist and it’s a Crane.
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Here’s some shots of the whole thing finished up and working smooth as silk.
4317154203_cb8c5e6c14_b.jpg


4317153313_67411b5a3f_b.jpg


And last but not least. These things always need extensive testing before being put into service so we found something that wouldn’t be hurt too badly in the event of a failure…







At least not if I land on my head.
4317157727_1a25910a22_b.jpg


So there you have it and it only took me 3-4 months to do the design, and find the supplies, time and money to build it. But I guarantee that my back will thank me in the long run even if my brain hates doing the calculations to get this thing built.

I’m sure that you guys will have questions and I will do my best to answer them. However, if you ask for the design I will not give it to you simply because I am not an engineer and I wont be responsible for something falling on your head, so don’t bother asking. But I will be happy to answer anything else.

Thanx for playing along,
Jaysin
 

harvey4804

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
112
Location
Ramona, California
wow that crane looks awesome! 2 questions,
1- it looks like there's 2 bolts missing on the lower portion of the I beam where it connects to the lower collar (4 instead of 6)
2- why was the long piece of all-thread used opposite of the I beam between the two collars?
 

Steve from Socal

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Jan 27, 2009
Messages
3,491
Location
Hutchinson Ks.
Jaysin,

Great work; if I may suggest UHMW as a bearing material for the thrust surface. This is what is now used on many semi fifth wheel plates and I have used it with roller chain on conveyors with good results.

Steve
 
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JaysinSpaceman

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Jan 1, 2008
Messages
85
wow that crane looks awesome! 2 questions,
1- it looks like there's 2 bolts missing on the lower portion of the I beam where it connects to the lower collar (4 instead of 6)
2- why was the long piece of all-thread used opposite of the I beam between the two collars?

1- Good eye, I managed to get the wrong number of bolts. I need to pick up two more.

2- because of the way that the tie rod loads the upper collar it can twist/tilt it so that the rollers don't run flat against the post, so the all-thread acts as a tension link in the rear to stop this from happening.

Jaysin,

Great work; if I may suggest UHMW as a bearing material for the thrust surface. This is what is now used on many semi fifth wheel plates and I have used it with roller chain on conveyors with good results.

Steve

Thanx for the tip, for now the grease will work but if it shows signs of wear I will take you up on your advise.

Jaysin
 
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