Blue Seducer
Well-known member
What size rods did you use to tie into the existing slab? 
My garage project
- Thread starter kvom
- Start date
Went out this morning with the workers.
One side of the footing had been dug and formed wrong, so today they had to move it over 6". Then they measured the slope from the end of the driveway concrete to the slab height and found that it slopes away from the garage. This means putting a drain across next to the current end of the driveway. The alternative was to demolish another 30 feet of driveway so that new concrete would slope to the street. That would cost over $3K, so will stick with the drain instead.
There are also some pipes from the sprinkler system under the slab. They will need to be cut off and plugged.
My builder had forgotten to tell the slab guy about putting gravel under the slab, so we will have to wait until tomorrow for it to be delivered before setting the rebar. Looks as if we won't be ready for inspection until Thursday.
One side of the footing had been dug and formed wrong, so today they had to move it over 6". Then they measured the slope from the end of the driveway concrete to the slab height and found that it slopes away from the garage. This means putting a drain across next to the current end of the driveway. The alternative was to demolish another 30 feet of driveway so that new concrete would slope to the street. That would cost over $3K, so will stick with the drain instead.
There are also some pipes from the sprinkler system under the slab. They will need to be cut off and plugged.
My builder had forgotten to tell the slab guy about putting gravel under the slab, so we will have to wait until tomorrow for it to be delivered before setting the rebar. Looks as if we won't be ready for inspection until Thursday.
bluesman2a
Well-known member
Also don't let them "forget" the vapor barrier before setting the rebar.
Other things I had to get on my slab crew about were placment of weather lips, where they were, and to put down sill bolts.
Other things I had to get on my slab crew about were placment of weather lips, where they were, and to put down sill bolts.
Finally got the gravel delivered this morning, and it's now been laid over the dirt (2 Mexicans with wheelbarrows and shovels). They replaced the vapor barrier and are laying out the rebar right now. I called in for inspection tomorrow. Hopefully the concrete will get poured Saturday or Monday assuming it passes.
bluesman2a
Well-known member
Don't know if t-storms are pasting you like they are here, but if so, make sure the whole site is covered with plastic/tarp. They won't pass a footer/foundation that's too wet to pour.
Yesterday morning I got the hydronic tubing in place, with the help of a couple of Mexican workers. Man it was hot out there in the morning!
7/8" PEX is hard to work with, esp. if it's coiled. I managed to kink the first one, trying to get started solo. Once it's kinked it tends to break, so that roll was ruined. Once I had a guy to carry the coil and turn it to remove the twist things went a lot better. Zip tied it to the rebar. It has 3 loops totalling about 550 feet.
Once it was hooked up to the manifold valves I pressured it up to 50 PSI, and the pressure held all day, so seems no leaks. Concrete is supposed to be here on Monday: 24 yards for the slab and the 20' of new driveway.
7/8" PEX is hard to work with, esp. if it's coiled. I managed to kink the first one, trying to get started solo. Once it's kinked it tends to break, so that roll was ruined. Once I had a guy to carry the coil and turn it to remove the twist things went a lot better. Zip tied it to the rebar. It has 3 loops totalling about 550 feet.
Once it was hooked up to the manifold valves I pressured it up to 50 PSI, and the pressure held all day, so seems no leaks. Concrete is supposed to be here on Monday: 24 yards for the slab and the 20' of new driveway.
Poured the slab today
Here is the site ready to pour with the hydronic tubing laid out:
Pumping the concrete up from the street:
The contractor had ordered 27 yards (3 trucks). At the end they were about 1/2 yard short of finishing the driveway, so had to order a 4th truck with one yard.
The driveway slopes away from th front of the garage doors (a good thing IMO), so they laid drains where the new driveway meets the old. The drains and the plastic pipe wanted to float up over the concrete, so a few bricks were employed to keep them down.
Slab ready to go, once it sets for another week or so. The curbs will be left exposed acting as waterproof baseboards in case I need to hose out the floor.
I did get one bit of irritating news. Because of the size of the crosswise span, I need to have one lengthwise support beam as well. This will hang down 14-16" from the ceiling. Seems that it can be offset enough to the left that it won't interfere with the lift post, which needs 12' (ceiling is 13'). Another dowside of this is that it will block some of the light from fixtures on one side reaching the other.
Here is the site ready to pour with the hydronic tubing laid out:
Pumping the concrete up from the street:
The contractor had ordered 27 yards (3 trucks). At the end they were about 1/2 yard short of finishing the driveway, so had to order a 4th truck with one yard.
The driveway slopes away from th front of the garage doors (a good thing IMO), so they laid drains where the new driveway meets the old. The drains and the plastic pipe wanted to float up over the concrete, so a few bricks were employed to keep them down.
Slab ready to go, once it sets for another week or so. The curbs will be left exposed acting as waterproof baseboards in case I need to hose out the floor.
I did get one bit of irritating news. Because of the size of the crosswise span, I need to have one lengthwise support beam as well. This will hang down 14-16" from the ceiling. Seems that it can be offset enough to the left that it won't interfere with the lift post, which needs 12' (ceiling is 13'). Another dowside of this is that it will block some of the light from fixtures on one side reaching the other.
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drivinhard
Well-known member
looking good
5wndwcpe
Well-known member
Bet you never thought you could get excited about concrete, did you.
I met with the framer today, and walls will be going up Wednesday morning. 
I had previously gotten the quote from the local lumber supplier for the framing lumber. I took it to Lowes for a comparable, as I have a coupon good for 10% off anything. It turns out Lowes is cheaper on about half the stuff needed, for a total savings of about $300 out of $4000 total. The other guy agreed to discount his part the $300, so I will get everything from one place and save on "in fill" delivery charges if needed.
I had previously gotten the quote from the local lumber supplier for the framing lumber. I took it to Lowes for a comparable, as I have a coupon good for 10% off anything. It turns out Lowes is cheaper on about half the stuff needed, for a total savings of about $300 out of $4000 total. The other guy agreed to discount his part the $300, so I will get everything from one place and save on "in fill" delivery charges if needed.
Framing underway. Here is progress morning of the 3rd day:
There is a delay on the framing of the second story as lumberyard structural designer tried to place a support beam between a 7' wall and a 9' wall. New beam will need to go front to back instead. Shlould get started again on Monday.
In the meantime the garage level is now completed sheathed.
There is a delay on the framing of the second story as lumberyard structural designer tried to place a support beam between a 7' wall and a 9' wall. New beam will need to go front to back instead. Shlould get started again on Monday.
In the meantime the garage level is now completed sheathed.
sharpshooter
Well-known member
awesome progress man, cant wait to see more
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
What......No man door out to the back?
I had both a roofing crew and the plumbers onsite today. The roofers go the garage done and about half the house. No work today (Sunday) so both will be back Monday.
The wife picked out the color, and likes the result. Married garage fans take note!
The plumber got the upstairs bathroom and kitchen sink roughed in, hooked the drains to the house, ran a line for an external hose faucet, and ran pipe for the downstairs shop sink.
Since there is no drainage on the garage level, the sink will have a pump to route water up to the drainage pipes. I will be using a Zoeller undersink pump.
I am using PEX tube for all hot/cold water supplies. It's a lot easier to work with then copper and a lot cheaper these days.
The plumber insisted that I provide 10' PEX sections rather than coils. They take a few more connectors, but once again are much easier to work with than the coiled tube. Hot water runs were 1/2", cold water 3/4" (except the faucet line that is 1/2"). Drainage pipes are sched. 40 PVC.
Remaining to do:
Plumb the water heater and the shop sink, and connect the cold water inlet to the house supply.
Next weekend my electrician friend and I will be wiring.
The wife picked out the color, and likes the result. Married garage fans take note!
The plumber got the upstairs bathroom and kitchen sink roughed in, hooked the drains to the house, ran a line for an external hose faucet, and ran pipe for the downstairs shop sink.
Since there is no drainage on the garage level, the sink will have a pump to route water up to the drainage pipes. I will be using a Zoeller undersink pump.
I am using PEX tube for all hot/cold water supplies. It's a lot easier to work with then copper and a lot cheaper these days.
The plumber insisted that I provide 10' PEX sections rather than coils. They take a few more connectors, but once again are much easier to work with than the coiled tube. Hot water runs were 1/2", cold water 3/4" (except the faucet line that is 1/2"). Drainage pipes are sched. 40 PVC.
Remaining to do:
Plumb the water heater and the shop sink, and connect the cold water inlet to the house supply.
Next weekend my electrician friend and I will be wiring.
The plumbing was completed on Friday. The water supply pipe was located just above the refrigerator in the house about 10' from the garage wall. Luckily I had taken photos of the framing/plumbing 15 years ago when the house was under construction, so he was able to determine where to cut into the ceiling after some study. Once he had cut a 12"x6" hole in the ceiling drywall, there was the pipe!
We also got the radiant floor/water heater plumbing done, and filled up the circuits for a pressure test. So far no leaks.
Today a friend (electrician) and I started on the wiring. My job was mainly drilling holes in studs and running wire where he told me. Hammering in staples overhead while standing on a scaffold is hard work (ceiling is 13'). We got the garage level about 75% done. Hopefully we can finish that tomorrow and get the upstairs appartment done as well (no heavy 230V wire needed up there, and lower ceilings).
The roofers are getting on my nerves. They took off Friday afternoon leaving some toe boards still on the roof. Looking at what remains, I believe that they ran out of hip & ridge shingles, and didn't know to ask me to get some more (I provided all of the roofing materials). They don't speak a lot of English, but their company owner does, so you'd think they could have called him.
I got a quote from a local AC contractor to put in 2-zone AC units (mini-splits) for a total of $7700 all-in. After some Googling online I find that the units he plans to use can be bought online or $3000, so he is trying to get $4700 to install 2 units. Seems a tiny bit excessive to me.
We also got the radiant floor/water heater plumbing done, and filled up the circuits for a pressure test. So far no leaks.
Today a friend (electrician) and I started on the wiring. My job was mainly drilling holes in studs and running wire where he told me. Hammering in staples overhead while standing on a scaffold is hard work (ceiling is 13'). We got the garage level about 75% done. Hopefully we can finish that tomorrow and get the upstairs appartment done as well (no heavy 230V wire needed up there, and lower ceilings).
The roofers are getting on my nerves. They took off Friday afternoon leaving some toe boards still on the roof. Looking at what remains, I believe that they ran out of hip & ridge shingles, and didn't know to ask me to get some more (I provided all of the roofing materials). They don't speak a lot of English, but their company owner does, so you'd think they could have called him.
I got a quote from a local AC contractor to put in 2-zone AC units (mini-splits) for a total of $7700 all-in. After some Googling online I find that the units he plans to use can be bought online or $3000, so he is trying to get $4700 to install 2 units. Seems a tiny bit excessive to me.
The county plumbing inspector came out today, and was "unhappy" with the in-slab system. He said it was "unconventional" So now I have to visit with the chief inspector to explain the system. 
He did take a brief look at the rest of the plumbing, and indicated that the line from the sink pump to the drainage pipes needs a check valve and a shutoff valve, since the waste water is being pumped vertically. However, the pump itself may have the check valve built in, so I need to check that online.
In the meantime the garage wiring is amost complete. I need to run circuits for the AC units and a front spotlight, the wire the upstairs portion.
Yesterday the exterior doors and windows were framed in, and the siding should be done tomorrow. If the roofers show up today they will hopefully finish the house roofing.
So now I have to visit with the chief inspector to explain the system. He did take a brief look at the rest of the plumbing, and indicated that the line from the sink pump to the drainage pipes needs a check valve and a shutoff valve, since the waste water is being pumped vertically. However, the pump itself may have the check valve built in, so I need to check that online.
In the meantime the garage wiring is amost complete. I need to run circuits for the AC units and a front spotlight, the wire the upstairs portion.
Yesterday the exterior doors and windows were framed in, and the siding should be done tomorrow. If the roofers show up today they will hopefully finish the house roofing.
bluesman2a
Well-known member
The county plumbing inspector came out today, and was "unhappy" with the in-slab system. He said it was "unconventional"
Translation: <georgia drawl>Yew hain't frum around here, is ya, boy?</georgia drawl>
I had some of the same issues with Gwinnett County. If it's not in a large number of homes here in Atlanta, then they want to cause a fuss. Hydronic heat, more than just the odd electric strip to keep bathroom tiles comfortable, is pretty much unheard of around here.
The chief plumbing inspector came by yesterday and approved the system. Basically he reviewed the vendor's info on the web, plus the hardcopy I had; basically he said that hydronic was becoming more common, but that every vendor's design is a bit different. He is actually a nice guy and also gave me some good insight into some other issues with upcoming insulation/drywall.
Before he came we were concerned because the bathtub wasn't holding water, hence the pressure test would fail. Turns out that the inflatable stopper in the drain pipe had burst. Luckily my plumber was on a job a few miles away and we were able to get a replacement from him right away.
The engineer from the local power company came by and confirmed that the supply cable to my existing meter is sized for 400a. So I should be able to get a 200a split to the garage with only some degree of trouble, involving coordination between the EMC, the electrician, and the county inspector showing up on the same day.
The siding guys made a start today as well, and the roof is almost done. The roofer still didn't paint two of the roof stacks, so another visit is needed before they get paid.
Basically he reviewed the vendor's info on the web, plus the hardcopy I had; basically he said that hydronic was becoming more common, but that every vendor's design is a bit different. He is actually a nice guy and also gave me some good insight into some other issues with upcoming insulation/drywall.Before he came we were concerned because the bathtub wasn't holding water, hence the pressure test would fail. Turns out that the inflatable stopper in the drain pipe had burst. Luckily my plumber was on a job a few miles away and we were able to get a replacement from him right away.
The engineer from the local power company came by and confirmed that the supply cable to my existing meter is sized for 400a. So I should be able to get a 200a split to the garage with only some degree of trouble, involving coordination between the EMC, the electrician, and the county inspector showing up on the same day.
The siding guys made a start today as well, and the roof is almost done. The roofer still didn't paint two of the roof stacks, so another visit is needed before they get paid.
PERFORMANCE-RED
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2008
- Messages
- 62
cool looking addition. I would have liked to seen how they met up to the house at the roof line. Looks like some interesting angles.
Two more days of wiring, and the upper level is done. The garage level needs only the 2 AC power circuits plus ground wires from the foundation and water heater to the panel. My friend started on the panel this morning, and we hope to be finished next weekend. I need to dig a short trench from the house meter base to the garage wall in order to accomodate the service cable. I'm hoping we can call for rough electrical inspection after next weekend, as well as for the rough framing.
Siding is complete on one side and the back (Hardiplank). They ran out of siding Friday afternoon, so it will be Tuesday before they can finish.
Tomorrow I intend to lay the hardiboard underlayment in the upper bathroom; then will do the tile later on. Glad it's only 7x7 feet.
Siding is complete on one side and the back (Hardiplank). They ran out of siding Friday afternoon, so it will be Tuesday before they can finish.
Tomorrow I intend to lay the hardiboard underlayment in the upper bathroom; then will do the tile later on. Glad it's only 7x7 feet.
Roof is done, finally.
The rest of the siding and soffit was delivered today, so hopefully the workers can finish installing tomorrow.
Getting the service cable to the new meter base means that it must be in a conduit and buried 18" underground. Since it's a 2" conduit the trench needs to be 20" deep. So I've been out digging the trench the past couple of days, a few feet at a time. It's slow work with a mini-pick and a hoe to remove the dirt. Luckily the ground around the house is clay and not too hard to dig up.
A guy that had been recommended by a friend to install the AC units backed out on me, so once again I need to find an installer. The best bid I've had so far is for $1200, which seems pretty high. I can't run the electric wires until I know where the units need to be located. Once I can do that, and my friend finishes the panel I can call for the rough electrical inspection.
The framing guys need to come back for a few minor fixes, and I need the AC linesets in place before the framing inspection can happen. In the meantime I laid backerboard on the bathroom floor to support the eventual tile.
The rest of the siding and soffit was delivered today, so hopefully the workers can finish installing tomorrow.
Getting the service cable to the new meter base means that it must be in a conduit and buried 18" underground. Since it's a 2" conduit the trench needs to be 20" deep. So I've been out digging the trench the past couple of days, a few feet at a time. It's slow work with a mini-pick and a hoe to remove the dirt. Luckily the ground around the house is clay and not too hard to dig up.
A guy that had been recommended by a friend to install the AC units backed out on me, so once again I need to find an installer. The best bid I've had so far is for $1200, which seems pretty high. I can't run the electric wires until I know where the units need to be located. Once I can do that, and my friend finishes the panel I can call for the rough electrical inspection.
The framing guys need to come back for a few minor fixes, and I need the AC linesets in place before the framing inspection can happen. In the meantime I laid backerboard on the bathroom floor to support the eventual tile.
We pulled the service cables yesterday and hooked them to the panel. Getting 4 thick cables through a 2" plastic conduit, and then the conduit through the studs and up to the panel was tough work. Eventually it got done, and all of the grounds and neutrals are wired in the panel (what is necessary for inspection). Only need to run ground wire from water heater pipe and foundation ground to the panel in order to call for inspection.
The service cables are the type suitable for ground burial, so at least we don't have to pull then through conduit to get to the breaker box.
I had a visit from a fellow GJ member who is going to help me with the AC lineset installation. We had a nice talk about his shop, which is almost done. I'll have to go check it out soon. Thanks Terry!
AC units should arrive tomorrow.
The service cables are the type suitable for ground burial, so at least we don't have to pull then through conduit to get to the breaker box.
I had a visit from a fellow GJ member who is going to help me with the AC lineset installation. We had a nice talk about his shop, which is almost done. I'll have to go check it out soon. Thanks Terry!
AC units should arrive tomorrow.
Good getting to see your shop and chatting with you. I ordered the chisel for the SDS hammer this morning.
As long as the weather holds out, there are no disasters, and I can find gas this week, we're on schedule for next weekend.
As long as the weather holds out, there are no disasters, and I can find gas this week, we're on schedule for next weekend.
Thanks to Terry the linesets for the mini-splits are now in place, and the power/control wiring is in place! His impact hammer/chisel also got through the concrete bits that were blocking burial of the service cable.
The ground wire is now in place, so I should be able to call for the electrical and mechanical inspections on Monday. The new meter base also came in, so once the inspections are passed we can try to schedule the service change.
The ground wire is now in place, so I should be able to call for the electrical and mechanical inspections on Monday. The new meter base also came in, so once the inspections are passed we can try to schedule the service change.
Passed the electrical/mechanical inspection this morning
Rough framing inspection is on for tomorrow.
The inspector did point out that I had one of the light boxes in the stairway a few inches too low (framing code, not electrical), and I have raised it up. The other issue he said was that the grounding rod in the slab needed to be connected to the slab rebar (it was) and inspected (it wasn't), so that I will need to add a second ground rod near the meter base when we do the service change.
Rough framing inspection is on for tomorrow.
The inspector did point out that I had one of the light boxes in the stairway a few inches too low (framing code, not electrical), and I have raised it up. The other issue he said was that the grounding rod in the slab needed to be connected to the slab rebar (it was) and inspected (it wasn't), so that I will need to add a second ground rod near the meter base when we do the service change.
bluesman2a
Well-known member
Been there, done that. At least you don't have to crack into your foundation like I did.
If my experience is any measure (400AMP meterbase), they will want TWO 8' ground-rods driven into the soil near the meter-base, but at least 10' apart, connected both to eachother as well as your ground-bus for your panel with #4 solid copper.
Another thing they will check-on when they do the final at the meter is to make sure nolox (anti-oxidation coating) was used to handle the tips of the service wires (in the meter-base and your new panels).
The framing inspector came by today, and found two issues. The first is pretty simple: both of the door returns at the corners require an anchor bolt into the driveway through the sill board. The second issue is that the rear wall is not sufficiently braced. Since there is a stairwell the entire length of the rear there are no floor joists or other connections. My builder's engineer will be here tomorrow to see what needs to be done.
The rough framing re-inspection was today, and it passed (I need to get the engineer's letter into the inspector's hands to be official). As soon as I see it on the county website I'll call in for the insulation install.
In the meantime this followed me home on Friday:
Spent a couple of hours cleaning up a lot of years of grime on the base and table, plus replacing the defective table drive with a working Servo unit.
Look out, OldCarGuy, I may be catching up ;-)
In the meantime this followed me home on Friday:
Spent a couple of hours cleaning up a lot of years of grime on the base and table, plus replacing the defective table drive with a working Servo unit.
Look out, OldCarGuy, I may be catching up ;-)