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My leaning garage fix

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OldGarageChris

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OK so I do have footers all around close to a foot deep which is good news.

Anyone care to comment on using high quality pressure treated wood (I'm reading about PWF/Preserved Wood Foundation grade and high retention PT) for my sill plates in direct contact with soil VS concrete blocks and sill plates on top? I would still dig around to ensure there isn't actual soil contact with sill plates...but there's only so much I can do before water is slopped to the foundation.

Concrete block method will be close to $600 for the perimeter and I'm wondering if the highest quality PT will give me 20+ years at a fraction of the cost. With blocks, I would also have to deal with the lip that was created to make the top slab pour level with the sill plates.
 
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Falcon67

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I dunno - I hate even treated wood in direct ground contact, but that's just me. Consider that garage I saved was built on the dirt with regular lumber and it took at least 20 years for it to rot down like it did, with help from termites for sure. If the lumber is treated and rated for ground contact - it ought to work well enough for you.

Note - my last shop was built right at grade. The slab contractor was supposed to raise it, but I was 400 miles away when they did it and it was what it was. I dug a ditch about 6"x6" around the three sides and filled that with gravel. I also ran gutters down the non-gable sides to guide water away. Worked well enough. You might be able to do something similar. If there is a low spot - even just a little - away from the building you could do a French drain setup to move water from the sides to the low area.

You could also raise and block the building maybe the width of a 2x4, use 2x4s for forms and pour a small lip with quikrete around the perimeter. That's a lot of work, but not a lot of bucks.

It's worth saving, keep after it!
 

little d

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Chris,
don't be afraid of cutting down what ya already have or even putting a new over head in. Not only will ya add the bracing ya really need, with those walls being so narrow, anything ya put on the walls (work benches, tool boxes, tools, etc...) adorning will stick out past your door opening.
 

shovelhead91701

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Before I get started, let me say that I am a GC in Oklahoma and have done the type of project that you are attempting. Without seeing the structure in person it is hard to really give good advice. That being said, If I were planning to tackle the project you are doing with the limited info that I have I would say that you are on the right track. In the past I have basically shored up all of the rafters, Installed laminated beams inside the existing side walls, taking the pressure off of the side walls and allowing the gluelams to bear the weight of the roof structure then after bracing and tieing everything together I have basically removed the side walls and end walls one at a time and cut and reinforced the concrete where needed, rebuilt the side walls and end walls then when finished let the roof structure rest back on the new load bearing walls and tied everything back together. Hope this helps and Kudos for even attempting it instead of just tearing it down.
 

camarotoolman

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You need to get some come alongs, cable or chain, hook them diagonally side to side and pull it back to plumb and square. I wouldn't brace it till its where it needs to be. Then jack the hole thing up and redo the foundation. You'll have alot of time in this, maybe you should work over time at your job and put the money on a new one.
 

little d

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Chris,
went back and looked at pics and maybe I missed something but I don't see a thing where you can't get good pt sill plate on your foundation? It's close in a coupla places but with a french drain around it to direct water away, you'll be good to go.
 
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OldGarageChris

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You could also raise and block the building maybe the width of a 2x4, use 2x4s for forms and pour a small lip with quikrete around the perimeter. That's a lot of work, but not a lot of bucks.

Great idea!

Chris,
don't be afraid of cutting down what ya already have or even putting a new over head in. Not only will ya add the bracing ya really need, with those walls being so narrow, anything ya put on the walls (work benches, tool boxes, tools, etc...) adorning will stick out past your door opening.

Good point. I'm hoping to widen the front walls to add more strength up front. I might be able to do that while still keeping these garage doors. However, I want to look into costs/sizes of a new door.

Chris,
went back and looked at pics and maybe I missed something but I don't see a thing where you can't get good pt sill plate on your foundation? It's close in a coupla places but with a french drain around it to direct water away, you'll be good to go.

3 of the walls have a step down in the concrete slab for the sill plates. Horrible design. Why they didnt do the 4th wall this way I have no idea. Maybe they got to the last wall and realized it was a stupid idea to put them below grade.
 
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OldGarageChris

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NOW FOR THE GOOD NEWS! The city is removing the tree :) First they said no, but then I said to the guy, "so lets say my garage falls down next week, is the city responsible now that I've told you that your tree is damaging my building?" Thats when he very quickly agreed to remove the tree :) However, I have to wait until the new year for the new budget. It's too bad I cant do much work until the tree's gone...but now I can do this right!
 
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IONH

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NOW FOR THE GOOD NEWS! The city is removing the tree :) First they said no, but then I said to the guy, "so lets say my garage falls down next week, is the city responsible now that I've told you that your tree is damaging my building?" Thats when he very quickly agreed to remove the tree :) However, I have to wait until the new year for the new budget. It's too bad I cant do much work until the tree's gone...but now I can do this right!

I don't understand how that tree could be on the city's land. That means your garage overhang may also be over their land. Here, we can not build closer than 10 feet to any property line without a variance.

Also, they may just be saying "wait for the new budget" which may never come. They may use that excuse all the time and most people don't remember to follow up or they play dumb when they do.

Lastly, hopefully the bracing you added helps the garage hold up in its current condition until the city comes through.

IMO, if the roof is stable enough to stand on, I'd take the top off that tree myself as I don't think it would be too unsafe. Could use a bow saw to be a bit safer than wielding a chainsaw up there leaning out.
 
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OldGarageChris

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I've already dealt with this city guy and got him to remove a dead tree at the front of my house that I thought was mine. He's a good guy and I live in a small town. Believe me, I will be following through.

The garage was either built before the building property line rules were in place or before they were enforced. Regardless, the building is grandfathered in and these new spacing rules are exactly why I cant tear down and rebuild. My driveway and all property fencing would be out of line. I'm guessing the tree was there first, but not my problem :p
 

luvit

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You would know better if that guy was serious, but I would call him back and ask if there is anyway he can do it soon.
By the time he gets his budget and can schedule it.. it could be 3 calendar months from today.

Also, you may need a permit to tweak your garage... once you start contacting the city about this tree... they may look to see if you have a permit.

.
 
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OldGarageChris

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Good points luvit. I tried to get him to do it this year but he wouldn't budge. I brought up that if my garage fell down, I could blame the tree/city and a new building was more expensive. He then said he'd have to talk to their legal department and that made me backpedal fast. I definitely don't want to push any buttons. We're a small enough town that I trust his word when he says January. However, I'll be calling to wish him a Merry Christmas and remind him of the tree late Dec to get something scheduled :)

I doubt I'll need a permit for a repair like this. I'm trying not to cut down any walls to raise suspicion just in case. Should be ok but I'll let them cut my power to let me know if I need one :)
 

JakeKohl

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You would know better if that guy was serious, but I would call him back and ask if there is anyway he can do it soon.
By the time he gets his budget and can schedule it.. it could be 3 calendar months from today.

Also, you may need a permit to tweak your garage... once you start contacting the city about this tree... they may look to see if you have a permit.

.

I would be worried (or is that, happy?) that the city might condemn it - that looks pretty bad.
 

luvit

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naw, man.
it ain't bad, man... i've done harder.. this is a beut.
 

crazytrain

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I love when people fix these old buildings up and show us the process here. I love old buildings and all the character they have. OP, Good job on working to save it and please keep the updates coming, Subscribed.:thumbup:
 
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OldGarageChris

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I haven't forgotten about this thread don't worry :) I just didn't want to bump until real progress was made. The great news is the tree is gone! Thankfully I live in a small town so when they say they'll come back in the new year, they mean it. I've done some prep work but nothing worth posting yet. I'm debating on whether I struggle in the cold or wait until spring and take a week off to finish all at once. I think I'll wait.

Just to rub it in, my neighbor across the street built a STUNNING 40x40 on his property from scratch in 4 days. Not sure whats worse, the new garage to look at or the fiance saying, "Well that looked easy...why cant you do that? Whats taking so long?"
 
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OldGarageChris

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How many of you thought this thread would never get an ending or even any real progress? I know I was worried...but here we go for a BIG day 1 update:

(Keep in mind my carpentry skills are pretty much non-existent as you will notice)

Pulling corners strengthened with 1x6, brackets, screws/nails and lag bolts. I really didn't have any order to this...all brackets had at least a lag bolt or 5" nail. I dread removing this mash-up of hardware.
DSC09320_zps94779854.jpg


Inside pulling corners strengthened. This is likely not the best way to strengthen the corner...but I wasn't sure how to do it. All I wanted was solid wood to drill into for the lag bolts.
DSC09322_zps7d41a38c.jpg


Rear come-along set up.
DSC09335_zpse1807658.jpg


(This is where my pictures become lacking or non-existant. My apologies, I should have done a better job)

As you can barely see in the previous picture, the leaning wall is supported with 2x4's. I used 2x6's attached to the studs with the 2x4's dug into the ground or wedged against my cement walkway. I did not support the non-leaning wall the same way. I probably should have, but I was confident I wouldn't go past vertical and beyond the other way.

Horrible picture of the front come-along (I will fix)
DSC09330_zps010a11e4.jpg


My first order of business was to fix the front left corner that had slipped off the pad.
DSC09324_zpsf75d1cc9.jpg


Support wall built to lift corner.
DSC09325_zps6ccd54a1.jpg


I then added another hook on the bottom to help pull the corner back on the slab.
DSC09328_zps5de53cfe.jpg

This pull didn't go as planned. I lifted the wall and cranked the come-along to find a lot of resistance. I moved the pulling hook down as low as possible right up against the bottom of the wall to achieve better success. Out of the 3 studs that were shifted off the pad, all but the last stud corner section fully moved back into place. Since I'm rebuilding the corner, I put in temporary sill anchor bolts and left it alone.

This is where I actually started pulling the come-alongs to straighten the building. To start, I was leaning a good 8 inches. I tried to go slow...but in all, I pulled the building straight in about 1 hours time. Look how much it's moved!
DSC09338_zpsc06004f5.jpg


Building is straight!
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DSC09341_zps2aebe322.jpg


The one thing I learned from other garage threads is: do not brace the building under tension! (I made this mistake in the rafters) So I didn't make the same mistake twice. I released both comes alongs and expected it to naturally want to shift back to the lean it had for who knows how many years.

IT DIDNT MOVE AN INCH :dunno: Not a single crackle or pop...it just stayed still :beer: WOOOHOOOO!

I then temporarily braced the back wall
DSC09356_zps0374a948.jpg


I cant believe I'm already into replacing sill plates! I figure the best wall to start with is the worst one. As the right wall sill plate has zero evidence of ever having a sill plate, I started with that wall. The wall is currently jacked up and I've got the 2x6 PT sill plate (builder used 2x6 top/bottom plates and 2x4 studs for some reason...so I'll follow) ready to be attached a secured.

I'm also working on the grading issue as many of you have pointed out. Dirt was piled up the side walls by a good 6 inches. Not good.
DSC09334_zpse8c2b523.jpg

DSC09342_zps3c071e6d.jpg


My plan is to surround the building with a gravel trench to keep dirt/moisture away from the walls. It'll be angled to take the water to the back of the building and away.

The studs are rotted bad enough at the bottom to require new wood. Instead of removing and rebuilding the wall, I'm going to double up the studs and keep the current studs that are still 90% good. All of the wall weight will be on the new studs. This is probably the lazy way to do this, but I think it will suffice. The current studs are still good wood to screw OSB into for the top 7+ feet of the wall + sill plate to screw in to.

That brings me to siding. I'm going to remove the old siding, sheath with OSB and then new siding. Both windows are coming out and I will replace the side door. I also want to completely rebuild the front wall. Widening the front side walls for strength and shrink the door size to the standard double garage door. Which means a new door.

Even with a new door + OSB + siding...I think I'll be under $5k for pretty much a new garage. Regardless of whether you think it'd be better to knock it down and start over, I will easily get my money back and more in house value. I would not get anywhere close to recouping the cost of teardown and rebuild of a brand new 20x20+ garage.

Thanks for the support leading up to this and feel free to comment on anything I can do better!
 
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xtremek

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Looks great so far. Making those first twits look stupid. I'm not a tree hugger, but in my mind you're saving money AND natural resources, learning new skills, and having a grand adventure. When you're done with this, this will be something you can be really proud of. This is tough, not some slap it together, easy kit. This takes commitment and guts. Keep it up and thanks for letting me tag along.
 

Bricen18

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Great Work i was reading this and getting pissed about everyone saying tear it down. Not everyone has a vette in the drive, and can just as easily rebuild a garage thats able to be fixed. Keep up the good work and keep us posted
 

bgarrett

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Good for you Chris! I have pulled on leaning garages and like you found out that it straightens up easily
 

Chaznsc

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OP: As an engineer, this thing really scares me. Its being pushed and pulled by many different forces. Structural forces are not anything to be toyed with. I see at least three different things going on, so its not just a leaning structure.

I don't think anyone meant any harm, but this thing is a safety hazard. I'd simply hate for you or a loved one to get hurt.
 
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OldGarageChris

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Thanks for the support guys!

Chaz> I definitely appreciate the words of caution and even the criticism from some people. It helps me to stay cautious and think things through as I work. Safety is definitely number one.

If I had cranked the building straight, released the come-alongs and had the walls move back to a leaning state...I wouldn't have continued before thinking things through more. I'm letting the building tell me what to do.

In fact, your post has reminded me to add leaning support against the non-leaning wall now that its straight and I have it jacked up. Thanks.
 
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OldGarageChris

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Should I be using foam sill plate gaskets?
Ive been trying to find something that will wrap around the sill plate and up the wall a little bit...but cant find anything. I assume that's because you shouldn't need it...but I'm trying to add extra moisture protection. Can/should I extend the wall wrap to underneath the sill plate?
 

tylernt

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Should I be using foam sill plate gaskets?
Ive been trying to find something that will wrap around the sill plate and up the wall a little bit...but cant find anything. I assume that's because you shouldn't need it...but I'm trying to add extra moisture protection. Can/should I extend the wall wrap to underneath the sill plate?

Even if you're using a pressure treated sill plate, I still recommend a waterproof barrier between the concrete and the sill plate. That's because concrete is porous and moisture will come up through it into the sill plate, which can in turn pass moisture to your non-pressure-treated studs. You can use 15# tar paper (cheap) or whatever is handy.

I would not suggest wrapping a barrier around the sill plate, because any moisture that gets behind (from leaky siding or whatever) will get trapped like a bowl. However, a layer of tar paper on the exterior under the siding that's left open on the bottom for trapped moisture to escape isn't a bad idea at all.
 

little d

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Outstanding job young man....Feels pretty damn good don't it?

As Tylernt said, leave what ever wraping you use open on the bottom to drain if need be.
 
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CNGsaves

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OP: As an engineer, this thing really scares me. Its being pushed and pulled by many different forces. Structural forces are not anything to be toyed with. I see at least three different things going on, so its not just a leaning structure.

I don't think anyone meant any harm, but this thing is a safety hazard. I'd simply hate for you or a loved one to get hurt.

As others have said, sometimes the Do-Ers have to push the nay-sayers out of way (ie "Can't" be done unless it has been "Engineered") . . . .
. . . . AND . . . just Get Er Done !! :thumbup:

Congrats to OP for getting that garage back in shape. You did a great job by getting that tree out of there first, then implementing your game plan. Adding supports and structure where needed, then putting the tension to it with come-a-long is the can-do attitude which saved you big bucks!!

There's another thread on GJ where his sill plate was rotted out and he installed concrete block after chopping off bottom of studs. It's done all the time, and your garage will be just fine when it's finished.

Keep up great work . . . and show us your success pics !! :rocker:
 

kmk7110

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I love the thread. Makes me realize my shifted slightly garage isn't that bad. :lol:

Gives me motivation to start a thread and get to work on mine as well.
 

luvit

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I like this very much and think your results are looking fab.
I find it difficult to stop and take pics all the time when I do something unique like this..
You're going to have a cool & unique garage. I've been a subscriber to this thread knowing that you'd be back.
 

NUTTSGT

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Chris, nice work, this is the first time I've checked out the thread. Hard work and persistence have paid off.

Since the hard work is done of straightening the walls and bracing, why not jack it up and lay a course or two of block ? A quick calculation says less than 60 block for 1 course (minus door area) and probably about 100 for two courses. Some mortar, rebar and concrete mix (fill block after laid) should cost no more than $250 for an extra 16" of garage height.
A few pictures from my refurb thread. . . . Clearly, I'm no mason.
Drilled for rebar, yes all that was probably overkill
04172012garagepics006.jpg

One course laid up
04172012garagepics009.jpg

Then it was filled
04212012013.jpg
 

theoldwizard1

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I'm also working on the grading issue as many of you have pointed out. Dirt was piled up the side walls by a good 6 inches.
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.
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My plan is to surround the building with a gravel trench to keep dirt/moisture away from the walls. It'll be angled to take the water to the back of the building and away.
Excellent ! Line the trench with heavy landscape fabric before installing the gravel. Better yet, put a drainage pipe (PVC with holes already in it. Not DWV or the corrugate flex kind either) with a sock on it before you put the gravel down. If you can't "fix" the grade (been there, done this) build a short wall out of landscape blocks along the outside edge of your trench.


I may have missed it, but you really need to understand why the building shifted to begin with and how to prevent it from happening again.
 
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OldGarageChris

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Hey guys, no additional progress yet. Got hit with a storm and then sent on a road trip to Ottawa for work.

I've decided to use a plastic vapour barrier that my Dad has left over from another project. It's a 12" roll so I'll use it under the sill plate and then up the 2x4 in behind the OSB. This should completely block the outside elements to the sill plate....as a backup of course.

Eric, your thread was one of the ones I considered in planning this project. Unfortunately, I cant line the perimeter with blocks. I'm not too sure what happened with my garage floor. The right side has the sill plate on the top of the slab. Where the other 3 sides have a step down for the sill plate with the top of the sill even with the floor.

Although it doesn't make sense, I'm going to stick with the original setup of the sill's. All but the right side will have the sill plate on a step down platform. I will take this into account when cutting the studs to keep the ceiling level.

The right side where the tree used to be and the back wall is where I have grading issues. Other then parts of the stump, I have nothing to stop be from digging up a mess to fix the grading. Using landscape fabric and drainage pipe is a great idea, thanks Wizard.

Weather looks good for the weekend, so hopefully I'll get some work done.
 

rpenterics

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As others have said, sometimes the Do-Ers have to push the nay-sayers out of way (ie "Can't" be done unless it has been "Engineered") . . . .
. . . . AND . . . just Get Er Done !! :thumbup:

Congrats to OP for getting that garage back in shape. You did a great job by getting that tree out of there first, then implementing your game plan. Adding supports and structure where needed, then putting the tension to it with come-a-long is the can-do attitude which saved you big bucks!!

There's another thread on GJ where his sill plate was rotted out and he installed concrete block after chopping off bottom of studs. It's done all the time, and your garage will be just fine when it's finished.

Keep up great work . . . and show us your success pics !! :rocker:

As an engineer, I couldn't agree more:thumbup:
 
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timbitca

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That's some good work on fixing your garage. A new build would have been cleaner and shinier, but it sure wouldn't have had the charm of your garage. Good work! :)
 

y'sguy

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Nice to see your success from all your hard work. This is a far cry from the "open checkbook" garages sometimes featured on here.
I like it!
 
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