My leaning garage fix
- Thread starter OldGarageChris
- Start date
OP
OldGarageChris
Well-known member
Jimmy Knight> I did think about that as I was going through all of this. Especially considering I was doing a complete overhaul. I knew I wasn't far from a teardown & rebuild being cheaper. However, I will tell you why I could NOT start from scratch for the same price:
1) Permit
2) As NUTTSGT said, I'm literally on/past the property line. I likely would have needed to move the building which means driveway and fence wouldn't line up anymore.
3) Cost of teardown and disposal of materials (including cement pad!) not cheap
4) I'm guesstimating 1/4 more wood materials. Didnt need to touch roof truss and roof boards.
The biggest issue was the permit and the hassle/cost of tearing down and hauling everything away. I didn't want to go that route. I didn't even plan on doing the roof and going this far. I just lucked out and found cheap/skilled labour. Even going as far as I did, I bet I was at least 2k away from the cost of starting from scratch. At another 40% in costs, it just didn't make sense for me.
1) Permit
2) As NUTTSGT said, I'm literally on/past the property line. I likely would have needed to move the building which means driveway and fence wouldn't line up anymore.
3) Cost of teardown and disposal of materials (including cement pad!) not cheap
4) I'm guesstimating 1/4 more wood materials. Didnt need to touch roof truss and roof boards.
The biggest issue was the permit and the hassle/cost of tearing down and hauling everything away. I didn't want to go that route. I didn't even plan on doing the roof and going this far. I just lucked out and found cheap/skilled labour. Even going as far as I did, I bet I was at least 2k away from the cost of starting from scratch. At another 40% in costs, it just didn't make sense for me.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
What decade (Or planet) are you living on? A full sized garage for $5500?
Sign me up!
crazytrain
Well-known member
WOW!!! That's all I can say, You did a great job saving that old garage. Congrats on saving it and making sure it lasts a long time to come. It looks like a nice place to work, looks great. You should be very happy. 
sxk122
Well-known member
I don't know where you live, but here in Dallas materials for the structure itself alone would eat that budget up. And that wouldn't touch labor or the new slab, let alone removing the old structure.......
xtremek
Well-known member
And not to mention that saving the old beast is better for the enviroment by conserving resources. Not that I'm a tree hugger, but why waste/dispose, when you can save. And you learn a lot more while having the fun of an adventure.
Perrorojo
Well-known member
Concrete is $130/yd. 7/16 OSB is $12 a sheet if you buy a truckload (1000). Shingles are $75/sq. Add lumber, wire, siding, labor....
Are you saying you'll build one the same size for $5,500? Maybe you should go into business.
OP
OldGarageChris
Well-known member
Thanks guys...had me thinking last night and today whether I was actually that close to the cost of a teardown and rebuild. I was trying to give Jimmy the benefit of the doubt...but unless I was doing ALL of the work myself, I would be closer to 10k+. Plus the added costs of "if you're doing this, you might as well do that." No way 5.5k gets you a 24x20 garage all in.
Do you think these doors are becoming too heavy for two 10" hinges? There was no weight rating on the hinge, it just said heavy duty. My only option is to take the OSB on the inside off...
Do you think these doors are becoming too heavy for two 10" hinges? There was no weight rating on the hinge, it just said heavy duty. My only option is to take the OSB on the inside off...
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IONH
Well-known member
I wouldn't take the OSB off the inside, I'd get stronger hinges first. I think without the OSB on the inside the doors will sag over time.
That said, if the hinges sag or break, get new ones. If they handle it fine then leave it alone.
That said, if the hinges sag or break, get new ones. If they handle it fine then leave it alone.
1949 caddyman
Well-known member
Or just put 2 more of the same ninges on the door. ( spreads the load )
Outlawmws
Well-known member
+++ to ^^^^
77thor
Well-known member
Nice save...
(But I have to admit that if it was me I would have torn it down and built a new garage. Mainly because of the floor & footing issues.)
(But I have to admit that if it was me I would have torn it down and built a new garage. Mainly because of the floor & footing issues.)
little d
Well-known member
Chris,
if your woried about the weight of the 7/16 osb, ya might look into 1/4" plywood underlayment...http://www.lowes.com/pd_180449-9989...rrentURL=?Ntt=plywood+underlayment&facetInfo=
Just as good for this application, lighter, cheaper and it finishes out nice (stained or painted).
if your woried about the weight of the 7/16 osb, ya might look into 1/4" plywood underlayment...http://www.lowes.com/pd_180449-9989...rrentURL=?Ntt=plywood+underlayment&facetInfo=
Just as good for this application, lighter, cheaper and it finishes out nice (stained or painted).
Chilliwack Murray
Well-known member
What type of hinges did you use? I used strap hinges that were roughly 6" on the jam and had about a 10" ******** the doors pictured below. The hinges I used took #12 screws and I used every mounting hole. Being more of a mechanic than a carpenter I tend to over build stuff so my doors were heavy. The were 7' high and 4 1/2' wide and I think they weighed in around 130 lbs a piece ( I built them like a 2 x 4 wall with diagonal bracing, a ton of screws, T&G fir on the outside and veneer paneling a little under 1/4" on the inside. They didn't sag and the hinges didn't suffer in the 6 years or so before I moved. I used cane bolts in the bottom and drilled into the concrete as was suggested earlier to lock the doors from the inside. I also put small slide locks at the top to keep them closed tight against the weather stripping as I did heat this are area in the winter. We were in a very windy area, usually blowing right against these doors. I used some antique barn windows and left the sheet of vapour barrier intact over the windows to stop the wind.
Excellent job on the structure repair. I think I'd have gone the same route, I'd enjoy character of the old building more than the benefits of a new one. I'm also a lot better at fixing something that's already there than starting form scratch. From a safety point of view, that is something you have to assess and reassess as you go, but it stood for many years and survived many storms the way it was. Everything you have done has made it stronger in the end so as long as you take precautions while you work it can only get better. With a big budget you can do nearly anything, often with little or no effort... But that is a building with character that 'fits'. It would cost far more to replace it with a new structure that 'fits' as well as that one. Good job.
Excellent job on the structure repair. I think I'd have gone the same route, I'd enjoy character of the old building more than the benefits of a new one. I'm also a lot better at fixing something that's already there than starting form scratch. From a safety point of view, that is something you have to assess and reassess as you go, but it stood for many years and survived many storms the way it was. Everything you have done has made it stronger in the end so as long as you take precautions while you work it can only get better. With a big budget you can do nearly anything, often with little or no effort... But that is a building with character that 'fits'. It would cost far more to replace it with a new structure that 'fits' as well as that one. Good job.
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jodster
Member
oh thank you... this is where i feel i'm at whether i like it or not now. Now i think straightening the walls would be safer without them being up on jacks but it's a little late now that they are up. I look for advice and feel i need to put it back down off the jacks but there has to be something else i can do at this point.
I agree wholeheartedly with the next reply in this thread with over bracing. That's also where i'm at. I think my bracing and support wall I built under the leaning side with all the blocking underneath is just in my way now. Sorry if i'm cutting in to threads inappropriately. I don't mean too. I'm just trying to find some help to carry on with getting this garage straight so I can anchor it down to a new sill.
I am new here and haven't given a lot of information on what i need help with yet, but I have been searching here all morning well it's actually 2 pm now I came across this thread and I guess i am trying to bookmark it in a way. So i can come back to it. Is there a better way to do that?
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Top thread bar - Thread tools - subscribe to thread; will do it.
jmarkwolf
Well-known member
Congratulations!
I gotta admit I was in the tear it down and start over camp, but you did a great job!
I gotta admit I was in the tear it down and start over camp, but you did a great job!
y'sguy
Well-known member
Had not seen this thread in awhile. Glad to see it worked out and you saved it. Well done.
If it were me I would consider an oldschool 2x4 or 2x6 crossbeam on the inside to stretch across the two doors to lock them. A massive dead bolt. only operates from the inside so no way intruders can tear off the outside lock or hasp. cheap to build, small amount of material.
If it were me I would consider an oldschool 2x4 or 2x6 crossbeam on the inside to stretch across the two doors to lock them. A massive dead bolt. only operates from the inside so no way intruders can tear off the outside lock or hasp. cheap to build, small amount of material.
toolmiser
Well-known member
It looks good, and you must be happy so it's a good job!
orangeblood
Well-known member
The satisfaction you'll get from working in that garage will be worth every penny you spent.
Great job.
Great job.
Great job with this. I would have put a row of block all around to lift the plates higher and
just cut the studs different to deal with the different foundation concrete height but your
method works for your specific goals, though if you are no longer planning on moving I
wonder if you will wish you had done it differently. There is no way you could build that size new for 5500, more like 15500.
just cut the studs different to deal with the different foundation concrete height but your
method works for your specific goals, though if you are no longer planning on moving I
wonder if you will wish you had done it differently. There is no way you could build that size new for 5500, more like 15500.