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My Legacy Industrial Floor

planecrazy

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Nov 27, 2010
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94
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South of the ATL
Friends,
This morning, I walked on my new Legacy Industrial floor for the first time. I'm beyond happy! I still have to put down the Urethane top coat in a few hours but I thought I'd document the process.

My garage is a 450 square foot place to park our cars for the most part. There is no heavy duty work that goes on there, I have another location for that. We've owned this house for two years and when we purchased it, it had a nice looking garage floor with some sort of matt finish coating on it. It was perfect in that it had no flaws or bare spots.

Living in Florida, we like to go barefoot quite a bit. In short order, large flakes of the floor coating was coming off. It would stick to our feet, get in the cars, get in the house, etc. No good!

The original floor.
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I debated for a long time what to do about it. I was pretty set on putting down porcelain tile. I've got a construction background and have layed plenty of tile over the years. In my previous house I'd put down a U-Coat It epoxy floor and was never happy with it and that what was causing me to lean towards tile. For some reason I can't explain, I had a change of heart and decided to go with epoxy. To be brutally honest, I chose Legacy Industrial due to the fact that Scotty is on here almost daily giving out advice. I'm sure all the floor coating folks that are here offer great products but I just kept coming back to Legacy Industrial.

I pulled the trigger on the purchase near the end of September. I had vacation coming up in the middle of October and wanted to do it then. I ordered the entire system from Scotty. Gel crack filler, primer, epoxy, flakes, urethane top coat and soft grit. I wanted a non slip floor.

So, The first order of business was to get the old coating off the floor. I checked with all the rental places in town and no one had even heard of a Dimabrush. Home Depot had one and as much as I dislike dealing with big box stores, I rented the Dimabrush and floor machine from Home Depot. It cost me $110 and took about 5 hours. The Floor machine would get to within 1/2" of a wall. To get the last 1/2" and the corners, we used a Bosch multi tool with and abrasive head on it. That worked well as the head is triangular and gets right into the corners.

This is the brand new Dimabrush head that Home Depot had.
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Halfway through grinding.
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All done grinding.
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There is no doubt about it, grinding is a dusty project. I didn't want to use any water on the floor because I didn't want to create a mud/slurry that would be even more difficult to get rid of and I didn't want to take the chance of having a failure due to high moisture content in my concrete. I swept the floor, vacuumed it, swept it again, vacuumed it again. Then I used my leaf blower to blow any dust I couldn't see. Then I swept and vacuumed it two more times. It's amazing how much dust you can find. A word of advice. Tape up the door to the house and cover anything you don't want dust on. More on this later but I ended up damp mopping the floor and that got the last of the dust off it. I could then rub my hand on it and not get a dusty hand. At that point, I was ready for primer.

I like to keep my garage clean and have always found that the control joints in the floor do a very good job of collecting debris. For that reason, I wanted to fill the control joints. I used the epoxy gel that Legacy sells. I decided to tackle that by myself the evening after we ground the floor. The directions clearly say, do not mix up any more than you can put down in 5 or 10 minutes. I had 50' of control joint to fill. I mixed up the entire gallon. BIG MISTAKE!! I was working out of a plastic drywall pan and got about 25' done when I went back to the gallon can for more. It was all set up and it had only bee 5 minutes. When I went to pick up the gallon can, I slightly burned my hand due to it being very hot (175 degrees) from the exothermic reaction. To tell you I was dejected that evening would be an understatement. I was highly upset at my dumb mistake. In order to keep my project moving along, I was trying to think of an alternate product to use. The next morning, I got a hold of Scotty and ordered another gallon of Gel. It was an expensive lesson and caused me some delay but in the end, I had enough invested in this floor that I wasn't going to cheap out at this point.

Two days ago, I got my replacement gel and proceeded to finish the job correctly. I mixed up about 1 pint at a time, weighed on a scale, in 1 qt plastic mixing cups. That worked much better! It was time to get this job back on track.

The floor with the cracks filled.
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Yesterday morning, I started by removing the water heater. I know it's a bit **** to put a floor under the water heater but I couldn't stand the thought of replacing the water heater some day in the future with one that could be smaller in diameter and having a bare floor ring around it. It is only a 5 minute job to remove the water heater but it does mean cold showers for a couple days. I learned that Florida cold water is not the same as Ohio cold water. It actually isn't too bad.

After the lesson I lesson I learned with the gel, I only mixed up 1 gallon of primer at a time. I was working by myself for this phase and it didn't go too bad. It took me exactly 1 hour to cut in and roll the entire floor.

The primer is down. You can still see the gel crack filler. Don't worry, it disappears with the next step.
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Close up of the primer.
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More in the next installment.........
 

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planecrazy

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So, picking up where I left off.

I got the primer down by 9:30 yesterday morning. The directions say that you can recoat in 7 to 10 hours but the real test is the lack of a thumb print. I lined up my buddy to help at 4:30 in the afternoon. By 4:30, the floor was ready for the next coat. We got started at 5:30 and finished at 6:01.

The epoxy has a short pot life (30 minutes) so they tell you to mix it up and pour the entire contents of the bucket out on the floor. We did that, exactly. Remember the lesson I learned? We both started cutting in and then both started rolling the floor.
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It wasn't long before I donned my homemade spiked shoes. Having spike shoes was a huge advantage as I was able to walk out on the wet floor. One of the issues that I was worried about was that the kit provided epoxy for 600 square feet and I had 450. You can't mix a partial kit and you have to pour it all on the floor. What do you do if you have too much? I had a clean dust pan standing by to scoop up any extra epoxy. I also pre-measured into red solo cups, the flakes. Once the entire floor was coated with epoxy, I walked around spreading the flakes. I was very happy with how that turned out.

A close up of the almost final product.
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Like I said, I've got the urethane top coat to do yet and that will happen in a few hours. I'm waiting till the landscapers get done blowing debris all over. No sense in screwing up a nice job now. Tomorrow morning, I'll get up early and re-install the hot water heater before I have to go to work, so that the wife can enjoy a hot shower.

I'm truly happy with the way things are looking this morning. There are no bubbles in the floor which was a big concern of mine. Time will tell if this floor will resist hot tire pick up. I'm fairly confident that it will.

More later.......
 

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zilla68

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Moore, OK
looking great, but a quick question


Does your code not require the hot water heater to be off the floor any specific amount?
 
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planecrazy

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Does your code not require the hot water heater to be off the floor any specific amount?

Apparently not but I'm not a code expert. All the homes here have water heaters on the floor, in the garage. They water heaters are electric so there is no fume/flame fear.
 
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Shea

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This is great documentation of a DIY garage floor epoxy project Phil! Your floor looks fantastic so far and I'm sure I'm not the only one waiting for the final pics of the polyurethane.

Good job :beer:
 
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planecrazy

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It's done. As of 1PM, we closed the door and put away the tools. The urethane topcoat with "soft grit" is drying. I had two gallons of urethane and decided to use one gallon at a time. The "soft grit" that I got was enough for 5 gallons so I weighed out 2 portions of 1/5th of the total. I purchased a clean 2 gallon plastic pail to mix the urethane and grit in. The urethane is a single part product with a 3 hour pot life so there wasn't a big rush to get it down.

There were two difficult parts to the urethane, both were not show stoppers. The urethane is clear so it is very hard to see where you've been. I found that the grit added enough texture that I could see the wet edges. I wanted to make sure that I covered the entire floor. The VOC content of the urethane is quite high and the odors are very strong. My buddy and I both wore NIOSH approved respirators with new cartridges. No way would I attempt to work without a respirator. As it is, I have all the windows in the house open trying to dissipate the smell and I sealed the door from the garage to the house.

All in all, it went well. I will attempt to get some pictures before I leave for work tomorrow.

Thanks to all that have posted on here before me. I learned a lot and that helped. An extra special thanks to Scotty for all is timely assistance. When you are a customer, Scotty truly has your back.
 

workhurts

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I prefer the cold water heaters myself.

Anyway, what kind of tape did you use when terminating the epoxy at the garage door? I didn't manage to get a crisp edge and am contemplating re-doing that portion in the future or finding something to cover it up with like a garage door seal.
 

pauls_workshop

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I prefer the cold water heaters myself.

Anyway, what kind of tape did you use when terminating the epoxy at the garage door? I didn't manage to get a crisp edge and am contemplating re-doing that portion in the future or finding something to cover it up with like a garage door seal.

I highly recommend Gorilla Tape for any and all epoxy projects needing tape. The stuff sticks like crazy, better than anything I've ever seen. Can make a very nice straight line without any leakage under. Press it down really tight. It is also extremely strong, several times stronger than duct tape, if that is needed for anything. I used it to hold my homemade spike shoes together between shoe and spike plywood pad under the shoe and it worked great for that with just one full loop around the shoe. No risk of that breaking or failing during the job. Probably could be used in place of structural steel beams in construction jobs. Just wrap around with two or three loops instead of the steel! (Note: I have not done that personally yet but planning to try it soon.) - Paul
 
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planecrazy

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Anyway, what kind of tape did you use when terminating the epoxy at the garage door?
This is the only area of disappointment for me. My epoxy stops under the bulb seal of the garage door while the concrete continues another 8" to the exterior wall face. I thought about taking the epoxy all the way out to the end of the pour but was advised not to.

I used Gorilla brand duct tape, two rows of it. I pressed it down firmly. On top of the Gorilla tape, I used blue painters tape. I pulled the blue tape after every coat while each coat was still wet so that I wouldn't get the tame imbedded in the epoxy. After the final coat (urethane) I pulled the blue tape and then the Gorilla tape which had been down for 36 hours. What I found was that the primer coat had run under the Gorilla tape and I don't have a clean edge.

I'm now looking for something to coat an area that is 8" x 16' to finish the job.
 
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Shea

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I'm assuming that you have a roll-up door? If so, you could always put down something like a Tsunami Seal across the floor to give you a better seal with your garage door. It would eliminate the problem of trying to achieve a clean epoxy line and give you a better seal against the Florida rain storms.

Just an idea....
 
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workhurts

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I'll second the Tsunami idea but maybe find something a bit cheaper. For me, I'd need 30 feet of the stuff and then if I didn't really like it I'd be trying to rip adhesive off the floor. I may have settled on adding anti-slip conforming tape across the whole thing. It may not be durable but I can change the color and the tape with a minimal investment of time.

I didn't stop right at the door, I stopped 3-4" back and like you the majority of my bleed through was the primer. I stopped before the door because I knew that if I went all the way out and screwed it up that i wouldn't have room to correct it. My issue with tsunami and similar is what happens when I try to wash out the garage.

There's gotta be a good way to get a crisp edge on concrete that isn't smooth.

Anyway, since you ended right under the door - I'd go with Shea's recommendation.
 

workhurts

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Thought of that too. The chances of me making a straight line with anything let alone an angle grinder are minimal :)
 
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planecrazy

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I've also thought about the tsunami but always come back to having it act as a dam when there is water in the garage. I do wash the cars in the garage as it is shady in there.

My thoughts on how to eliminate thus have been exactly what Scotty suggested with a shallow cut. Unfortunately, I didn't think of that beforehand.

I can live with what I've got so it's not the end of the world. I may try to use an abrasive head on my multi to and try to "erase" the bleed trough.
 
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planecrazy

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I thought I'd wrap this up with a few final pictures.

It's been 4 days since I put the urethane coat down with the soft grit. I've walked on the floor with bare feet and it is very comfortable while give a good degree of non slip safety while wet. That was very important to us. Here is a close up of the soft grit. It looks aggressive but it is just right in my opinion. I've wet mopped the floor and had zero issues with the mop catching on the grit. In a prior garage, I had aluminum oxide grit (supplied by the coating supplier) in the floor and it would rip skin right off your body. Believe it or not, this shot is where the intersection of four control joints come together in the center of the garage.
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As hard as I tried to get 100% coverage of the clear urethane, today, I found two spots where it is missing. I still have some in the can so I'll touch it up tomorrow morning.

The final floor.
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I had to get a shot with my car on the floor.
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Thanks for reading along. I hope this thread helps someone in the future as I'm just trying to give back a little of the knowledge I've gleaned form others.
 

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fun2drive

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Sep 8, 2013
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Scotty
I purchased a kit this week for my single garage. I hope to have the same level of success as the OP had. I will be visiting HD to get the grinder to remove some awful gray paint which has been down and in poor repair for 19 years.
Tsunami Seal I have seen before and sounds like a good idea. I plan to install this in the Feb time frame in the panhandle of Florida which temps should be OK for the job.

Any idea of what the temp limit would be for rolling the epoxy?
I am planning to just use the soft grit with the two part epoxy. Will read and study up on this before the job of course but curious when the grit is to be used, mixed with the epoxy or sprinkled after the epoxy is rolled on and still wet?
Cheers
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
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deerfield, IL
FYI

The op did it right...

Pre-filled all cracks.
Primed the surface with our standard primer
Applied our HD basecoat
Broadcasted flakes
Applied a sealer coat of our clear urethane with soft-skid

If you apply soft-skid to the base coat it will sink in, rendering it useless.

Also...
We are still in prime coating weather for Florida.
 
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