My New Garage Build

[d110pickup]

Are your sliding doors finished on the inside or open?

Bevis,
At this time the insides are unfinished, but I do plan to insulate them and cover the interior surface but it'll have to be something thin, I don't have much room between the doors and wall.
Mike

 

[d110pickup]

Did you notch the end posts for those angled supports? Or did you just space them out so your exterior siding would fit?

Auotist,
I think I understand your question but let me know if I'm offbase with this answer.
The diagonal brace (called a "haunch brace") is bolted to the surface of each side of the post and those two sandwich a 6x6 that has a 60 degree angle cut on each end.
The point I think you're missing here is this framing is for a shed area, it'll have a corrugated metal roof but no walls.
Hope this made sense,
Mike

 

[Bevis]

d110...I hear you on the doors. I built one, but don't really like the rollers I used or how the door scrapes the outside wall. Thinking I may rebuild my door.

 

[d110pickup]

Actually there is enough room just not any extra!
I pulled out the screws holding the doors together countersunk the holes and installed a larger diameter screw with a flush head. It still rubs but doesn't damage the trim it touch's.
Mike

 

[autoist]

Auotist,
I think I understand your question but let me know if I'm offbase with this answer.
The diagonal brace (called a "haunch brace") is bolted to the surface of each side of the post and those two sandwich a 6x6 that has a 60 degree angle cut on each end.
The point I think you're missing here is this framing is for a shed area, it'll have a corrugated metal roof but no walls.
Hope this made sense,
Mike

Yep, answered my question...a neighbor just gave me about 30 2x6x18 - perfect condition! So, I'm gonna add to my garage using your shed building technique...since I'm gonna enclose mine, I'll just 'scab' a piece of 2-by above & below the 'haunch brace' vertically along the post to make a smooth area where I can attach siding.

 

[MrPeek]

The build looks first class and very strong. Can you show some more pictures of the car and its engine?

 

[d110pickup]

Here's a few photo's of the method I came up with to finish the peak where the corrugated metal ends. I nailed a 2x4 in the peak, added a spacer about 1 1/4 thick and topped that with a 1x4.

 

[d110pickup]

Here's three more showing a sample of the ceiling material in place. I've still got to work out the details where the metal meets the wall.

Hope this made sense, thanks for looking.
Mike

 

[autoist]

Go to Lowe's & get their "U" channel metal trim...nal it to the wall & ceiling & slide your corrugated into it.

 

[d110pickup]

Go to Lowe's & get their "U" channel metal trim...nal it to the wall & ceiling & slide your corrugated into it.

Thanks for the tip.
I'll go by tomorrow and see if it'll do what I need.
Mike

 

[redneckprofessor]

The corrugated metal should look really nice. There's a local pizza place near me and the interior is mostly corrugate metal-- made me want to do that to my garage.

Whoo. Been a long time since I posted.

 

[d110pickup]

It's been a couple of weeks since my last update and I've got a few photo's to post.
I've started covering the interior walls with OSB and I decided to start at the top, putting up the OSB and painting it.
The first photo's are the un-trimmed OSB. I originally tried to put up whole sheets over the windows but I damn near killed myself doing it. Decided to cut the sheets in half and later finish the seams.

Thanks for looking.
Mike

 

[d110pickup]

The next photo's are of the areas with trim & sheetrock mud on the seams. The OSB is smooth side out so there is some texture.

Mike

 

[d110pickup]

Here's a close-up of one section after paint.

Mike

 

[d110pickup]

And here's a few showing the final product. I'm pretty happy with how it looks!
After the corrugated ceiling is installed it'll be pretty sharp.

Thanks for looking,
Mike

 

[Bevis]

that looks good. So the joints are filled with drywall mud and painted?

 

[d110pickup]

Yeah, I know I'm slow but it's time for another update.
My lovely wife decided I really needed a toilet in the shop so I wouldn't be tracking up the house or using the woods, so I did this for her.

Mike

 

[d110pickup]

that looks good. So the joints are filled with drywall mud and painted?

Yep, that's what I did this time. Not sure I'll do that for the whole building it's pretty time consuming.
Mike

 

[d110pickup]

I continued installing the OSB on the walls of the shop. So far I've completed the front and rear walls. Here's a few photos.
The front:

And the rear, I guess I didn't take any photos of the finished wall.

And I started the side this weekend:

Thanks for looking,
Mike

 

[d110pickup]

I also started the air compressor shed this weekend. I didn't want to hear the compressor every time I work in the shop. It's sided in Hardi Board like the rest of the building. And I'll trim it to match the rest of the shop after I cut the vents thru the Hardi Board.

Mike

 

[Old61]

I like the style.Will you be keeping the man lift to open n close the windows?

 

[d110pickup]

I like the style.Will you be keeping the man lift to open n close the windows?

Nope, after I'm completely finished I'll sell the lift.
I've got an idea for opening the windows from the floor with a pole. I'll build & test that before the lift goes away.
Mike

 

[d110pickup]

Time for another of my infrequent updates on the shop build.
Since the last post I've completed the final electrical work and the building passed the final inspection by the county.
I've still got to install the ceiling, paint the remainder of the interior, paint the exterior and lastly finish the portico out back.
Here's a couple of photos of the switch I'm using for the air compressor. It's designed to be used as a timer and switch for a water heater and it's rated for 40 amps.

Thanks for looking.
Mike

 

[theroyz71]

Beautiful barn/shop. You should be very proud.

 

[BigAlVol27]

Barn looks great. Is it possible to post some close up pics of the hardi plank siding? I'm planning a socket systems build and want to use the hardi plank. They show a 1/4" gap for horizontal seems and flashing on their website. I'd like to see how you installed yours. I'm going 12' high on the side walls, so I'm planning to use 4x10 planks and cut a 4x2 section at the bottom, kind of like a wanescoat (sp) appeareance.

 

[d110pickup]

Bigal,
I'm not sure that photos would help you any, all seams are covered by the battens. We used the manufacturers specs and just eyeballed the gaps when the siding was installed.
If you need more info let me know.
Mike

 

[BigAlVol27]

d110, thx, my main concern is the horizontal seems. Do you just have them covered w/battons. did you use any calking? I'm plannig to do barn doors like yours, so does the hardi plank **** up against a 1x? Sorry to ask so many Qs, I'm not a builder, just a do it yourselfer. I understand if your busy, so just tell me if I'm asking too much.

 

[d110pickup]

Bigal,
The walls are 10' tall and I used 10' Hardie so there are no horizontal seams.
Ask all of the questions you want and I'll answer if I can. I'd never built anything larger than an air compressor shed before this project.
I don't understand your question regarding the sliding door.
Mike

 

[monkeyplasm]

How thick did you go on the slab? And, how did you determine the sizing for the footer area under the posts?

I can't tell if you enlarged the footings under the posts or not. It doesn't look like you did anything different/special for the monolithic slab just for the Socket Systems construction technique.

Can you shed some insight on how you sized and reinforced the slab?

Thanks!

 

[d110pickup]

Monkey,
The slab was supposed to be a minimum of 4" everywhere except under the lift and that was to be 6". The local inspectors wanted a 36" deep by 12" dia. footing.
Well that's not what happened.
I had a fantastic concrete contractor and a good friend owns several concrete plants so the result was much better.
The contractor added grade beams going in both directions under the slab (basically they dug the shape of the beams into the ground under the slab). Each footing was more like 24" dia. and the slab has a non-required turn down on the perimeter. These additions did mean we used more concrete but I think it was worth it.
Also, we used 4000 psi mix with fibers added.
If you need more info let me know.
Mike

 

[d110pickup]

Once again it's time for one of my seemingly random but totally unplanned updates. I've gotten the entire interior painted and the electrical covers back up. This time I used caulk on the seams instead of spackle, much easier and no sanding required. The interior walls are painted with glossy Valspar Duramax exterior Latex paint. Hopefully it can be wiped down as required and look good for a long time.
Also I applied a couple of coats of polyurethane to the entire frame (6x6's) and five coats to the posts that can easily be reached, that way I'll be able to wipe off grease or dirt.
Also I ordered the corrugated tin for the ceilings and the portico out back last week, it's supposed to be delivered this Friday.
Thanks for looking,
Mike

 

[d110pickup]

Here's a few photos of the exterior after most of it has been painted. I used the same Valspar Duramax latex from Lowe's that's on the inside.
I'm going to have to pay someone to paint the area's around the windows I caulked the walls up there but I can't paint it.
It'll look better after the trim color is up.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[thdewey]

A W E S O M E garage!!!!! Thanks for the updates.

 

[d110pickup]

A W E S O M E garage!!!!! Thanks for the updates.

No thank you, it's good inspiration to get something else done.

I'm going to paint in the mornings this weekend and try to finish that (we're having highs in the upper 90's, way too hot to paint) and in the afternoon I'll start putting up the corrugated tin on the ceilings.
Mike

 

[d110pickup]

This weekend I applied a second coat of paint to the exterior of the building and began installing the corrugated tin ceiling.
The ceiling looks fantastic, I'm really glad I decided to use this material.
Here's a couple of photos.
Mike

 

[heffneil]

I had a hard time seeing what it would look like with the tin ceiling but man that looks just awesome!!! I love it. It looks so nice next to the beams and with the metal angles really its a knock out! Nice job! Can't wait to see it all finished!

Neil

 

[JMURiz]

Looks good, you're lucky you don't have to cut around oulets/lights/garage door tracks.

I'm about 2/3 done with my metal ceiling, but the hard cuts are done.

 

[Hemiragtop]

You have done an incredible job. Bravo. Keep up with the photos.

 

[DGUS]

That looks great! You've sold me on the metal ceiling idea!

 

[BPJOOP93]

That looks really nice. how weather resistant are the sliding doors? does the wind blow in under them? once again it looks great, i love the ceiling. i will be doing that to my interior wall where i do my metal fab.