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My newest acquisition.

OldCarGuy

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After an unsuccessful morning at an auction. I took a short drive to inspect a Radial Arm Drill Press that I've been negotiating on for the past month. It's a Taiwanese built machine that had very little use. Other than a cobbled up table that didn't originate with this machine. And a broken downfeed mechanism that needs to be repaired. But the new replacement parts are included.

It has a 9” column that has little or no sign of ware. And a 36” power arm with a 3 HP spindle motor with speeds from 75 to 1800 RPM's and a number 4 tapered spindle. Along with a coolant pump. I'll be picking it up later this week with my trailer and adding it to my retirement garage... :)

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TxDoc

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Apr 25, 2007
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Pretty nice that the parts that need to be replaced are included and that it is in such good shape. The "something that went right" was a pretty good thing!
 
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OldCarGuy

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That's a hunk of machine!

Is it's advantage over regular drill presses, accuracy?...speed?...size of holes drilled?

Yes to all...

I’ve been looking to increase my drilling capacity for a number of years. Actually an old geared head drill with a number four taper spindle was something I had in mind. Something that I can drill two or three inch diameter holes in steel with. But if I came across a low mileage smaller Radial Arm Drill, I wouldn’t hesitate to purchase it.

There are a number of advantages that a Radial Arm Drill has over conventional drill press. First being I can centrally clamp the work on the table one time, and drill any number of holes with the movement of the arm and head. It’s not near as efficient as a gun drill; but can handle drilling deeper holes as well. The quill has 10" of travel. And holes that are deeper than 10", the arm can be raised and lowered on the column to remove chips and remain on center of the hole. Most likely I’ll add a pivoting plate on top of the table. So I can easily drill holes at an angle.

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kvom

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*******, GA
I'm sure you know to clamp the $hit on anything you drill with that. They can be scary.
 

Graham08

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Iron Station, NC
Nice! I like that you got a box table with it, even though it looks to be a little rough.

Now you need a good drill sharpener to go with it...big drills that need some work can often be picked up cheap relative to what they cost new. :beer:
 
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OldCarGuy

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My new toy made it home and unloaded yesterday. The shop loaded her up on my trailer with a fork lift. Trying to keep ahead of the rain, I didn't take any pictures. It started to rain halfway home so I had to stop and cover the machine with a tarp. When arrived home I realized that the machine was too high to clear my 8' garage door loaded on the trailer. So I removed the tie-downs and tarp outside and with a pinch bar I put 4” X 4” under it. So that I could move it with a pallet jack. With my winch attached to the machine, I tilted the trailer's bed. Once in the up position, I let out the winch and the machine slowly made it to the driveway. Then it was a simple matter of pulling it into my garage on the pallet jack. All the time it was raining and dark, so I didn't get any pictures. But here's one once inside my garage. I did put the 3/ 4” Jacops chuck that I purchased six months ago on Ebay in anticipation of purchasing a larger drill press.

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So, does this mean that you'll be selling off what this is replacing? :)
My new Radial Drill wasn't purchased to replace any of my other machines. It just adds to my overall garage shop's drilling capabilities. Shouldn't every garage shop have one? LOL


Nice! I like that you got a box table with it, even though it looks to be a little rough.

Now you need a good drill sharpener to go with it...big drills that need some work can often be picked up cheap relative to what they cost new. :beer:
Even though I have a cutter grinder I normally sharpen drills to 2” diameter on a bench grinder. Using a simple drill gage. That's one of the first things a young apprentices learns.

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goodfellow

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That is top-notch machinery -- very nice!! Also looks like it could seriously hurt you if you're not careful, or trained to use it properly.
 
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OldCarGuy

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That is top-notch machinery -- very nice!! Also looks like it could seriously hurt you if you're not careful, or trained to use it properly.

Machines aren't dangerous, it's always the operator that's the weak link. I've been working with machinery far bigger and more powerful than this machine for 50 years. And have yet to sustain any kind or major injury.
 

goodfellow

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Machines aren't dangerous, it's always the operator that's the weak link. I've been working with machinery far bigger and more powerful than this machine for 50 years. And have yet to sustain any kind or major injury.

I'm quite certain you're trained to use it OCG -- that's obvious from your posts and your exquisite shop. I'm just saying that machinery of that size requires a great deal of training and respect.

I once saw an apprentice almost loose a hand on a 20" drill press when a clamp let loose. I can only imagine what would happen when something lets loose on that radial drill press.
 
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ovilla

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Plainfield, IL
OCG - I must say that I always do learn a lot from your purchases. I never even knew that they made a radial arm drill press. I can definitely see the appeal in one of these. I'm kind of surprised that there isn't more of these on the market. Sear's could make a fortune selling even a small portable version of one of these. Thanks for sharing!
 

Nealcrenshaw

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Nice acquisition OCG!! Just curious as to the size,amperage of the motor,and how do you raise and lower the head?
Does it use a rack and pinion system?
Can the lower chair be removed easily to place the workpiece on the base? Any Idea how much it weighs?
Who's the MFG"ER?
 
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OldCarGuy

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OCG - I must say that I always do learn a lot from your purchases. I never even knew that they made a radial arm drill press. I can definitely see the appeal in one of these. I'm kind of surprised that there isn't more of these on the market. Sear's could make a fortune selling even a small portable version of one of these. Thanks for sharing!

The spindle has a 3 HP three phase motor that draws 8 Full-Load Amps at 240 Volts. An independent 1 HP three phase motor is used to raise and lower the arm that the head runs on. That motor is mounted at the top of the column and rotates a vertical feed screw to the back of the arm.

The box table (your term chair) can be removed to accommodate large tall workpieces. One side of the box table is machined square and has clamp slots. So that a tall narrow workpiece can be clamped and be drilled on the end.

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The machine is badged “Sharp” and was made in the year 2000 by a Taiwanese company that also marketed under a number of other names. And weighs just over 3,000 pounds...


Nice acquisition OCG!! Just curious as to the size,amperage of the motor,and how do you raise and lower the head?
Does it use a rack and pinion system?
Can the lower chair be removed easily to place the workpiece on the base? Any Idea how much it weighs?
Who's the MFG"ER?

There are some home hobbyist's versions of Radial Drill Presses. And I believe that Craftsman made on years ago. Grizzly make two different models. None compare to this one in weight, size, or drilling capacity.

http://grizzly.com/products/5-Speed-Bench-Top-Radial-Drill-Press/G7945

http://grizzly.com/products/Radial-Drill-Press/G9969


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rsanter

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visalia ca
OCG - I must say that I always do learn a lot from your purchases. I never even knew that they made a radial arm drill press. I can definitely see the appeal in one of these. I'm kind of surprised that there isn't more of these on the market. Sear's could make a fortune selling even a small portable version of one of these. Thanks for sharing!

actually they do sell a version of this for wood. it looks like a funky drill press and does not seem to be a good seller

I have see a couple of small versions of these from the 50s or so. they look like a minaturized version of this so it would fit on a bench or stand

if you want a small version of one of these you are also looking at a Mill as they can work similarly

bob
 

kvom

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I am thinking of getting a pallet jack to move my gear around. My lathe weighs about as much as that drill. Any problems moving that sort of weight?
 
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OldCarGuy

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I am thinking of getting a pallet jack to move my gear around. My lathe weighs about as much as that drill. Any problems moving that sort of weight?

I have a 6,000 pound capacity pallet jack that I use all the time to move machinery around. Just be careful, a lathe can be top heavy and can easily tip over.
 
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OldCarGuy

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As I expected it took a little more than just putting the parts together on my new Radial Arm Drill as the previous owner stated. The problem he didn’t mention was that the steel worm gear bound tight in the brass power down-feed wormwheel. In order to save the brass wormwheel, I had to carefully alter about eight teeth into place using a small punch. And remove some highspots with a carbide bur in an air grinder. Once it had the correct mesh, I started the assembly process. However I quickly learned that the mechanics that disassembled it sure weren’t careful. And put nicks and gouges into almost all the mating parts. Every assembly needed to be fitted checked and refitted before final assembly. The whole process took about ten hours. But she is good to go now.

Below is a small video clip or the Radial Arm Drill Press in action. Now I wouldn’t suggest that you try this in any ordinary Drill Press. I’m drilling an 1 1/ 2" diameter hole through a 2" thick piece of 4140 steel (about 30 Rockwell C in hardness). I clamped the plate on two parallel’s so that I can drill through the plate without drilling though the table. A practice that the previous owner obviously ignored. The spindle RPM’s is 88 and the power downfeed set at .004" per revolution. Therefore it’ll take about 5 1/2 minutes to drill through the plate.

A lot of machinists like to step drill or drill a pilot hole first when drilling a hole this large. Having a lead hole is a lot more forgiving in how well a drill bit needs to be correctly sharpened. Particularly in larger diameters when the web of the drill bit is so thick. But I wanted to test my drill bit sharpening skills, and didn’t drill a pilot hole first.... As you can see, the drill bit cut through the plate like a hot knife through butter. My sharpening wasn’t perfect; but not bad. Although I did get chips from both flutes, one was making a bigger chip. BTW I put a small quirt of water mixed with a rust inhibitor to keep things cool. If the drill bit is sharpened correctly and with the correct RPM’s and feed rates, it doesn’t take much coolant. Unless you want to push the drill bit and equipment to its’ limits. Then flood coolant is necessary.

 

Frank Elson

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I know my little pillar drill doesn't compare, but OCG would you recommend that water spray when drilling, say, 1/4 inch plate?
Someone in the pub mentioned a cutting paste ?
 
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OldCarGuy

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I know my little pillar drill doesn't compare, but OCG would you recommend that water spray when drilling, say, 1/4 inch plate?
Someone in the pub mentioned a cutting paste ?


I do recommend using coolant the same way when using one of my smaller drill presses. And even with portable electric drills.

And has been my experience to use water with some rust inhibitor when drilling most types of Steel. I drill Cast Iron dry with maybe a blast of compressed air to cool the drill bit and blow away the fine chips. And kerosene when drilling Aluminum.

Heat is the enemy of drill bit. And should never get too hot to handle by hand. As you can see in that video, little or no steam came from the drilling operation. Even though I'm making lots of steel chips....


.
 
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OldCarGuy

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A new toy for my new Radial Drill Press...

Now all radial drill presses need a 1' capacity drill chuck. I purchased a Jacobs 1” diameter 20N Super Ball Bearing Drill Chuck on Ebay for $91.00. Many of these chucks go for $150.00 or more. And since the seller, to my surprise was around the corner, he delivered it free.

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You can purchase a small imported drill press including a 1/ 2” chuck for what one of these babies go for. Enco has the best price that I know of @ $315.00. And that doesn't include the taper shank adapter, that's another $39.00...

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=240-2837&PMPXNO=4839845

With a 3/4” diameter hardened pin chucked up, I set up an indicator to check the run-out of the chuck when running under power. Near the jaws the TIR (Total Indicator Reading) was well within .002”. As shown in the following video clip. That's within the factory quality standard is .004”. Keep in mind that a human hair is .003”.




The following video clip I placed the indicator 6” below the chuck. That'll indicate how straight the pin is how true the chuck holds the pin. It's still withing .003” TIR. By the way the spindle of my new Radial Drill Press has a TIR of zero. Needless to say I'm extremely happy with my new Radial Drill along with my newly purchased Jacobs Drill Chuck!

 

voidifused

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Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Messages
219
Location
Canada
After an unsuccessful morning at an auction. I took a short drive to inspect a Radial Arm Drill Press that I've been negotiating on for the past month. It's a Taiwanese built machine that had very little use. Other than a cobbled up table that didn't originate with this machine. And a broken downfeed mechanism that needs to be repaired. But the new replacement parts are included.

It has a 9” column that has little or no sign of ware. And a 36” power arm with a 3 HP spindle motor with speeds from 75 to 1800 RPM's and a number 4 tapered spindle. Along with a coolant pump. I'll be picking it up later this week with my trailer and adding it to my retirement garage... :)



DSCF2785.jpg

Do you have the wheel that is off the front so you can manually bring the drill down? or do you just use the Power switch one on the side?
 
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