nail puller for larger nails

[BTL-A4]

I have to pull quite a few nails out of some wood pieces I'm repurposing. They must come completely out because I'm jointing, planing and table-sawing them to size. I've been using a claw hammer, but it requires some leverage. I'm wondering if I should get a longer crow bar or if there is something better out there. These appear to have been nailed in with an air nailer, as all the heads are below the surface. I'm having to pound them out from the back and then use the claw hammer to pull them out. I have several hundred to pull and would like a way that doesn't require so much of my strength; let the tool do the work! Please advise.

Some photos of the nails:




Thanks!

 

[mike93lx]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X2QM3G?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have one that I've used a couple times, but it's mainly just sat. Bought it with the intention of cleaning up a ton of pulled decking but decided to junk them instead. It worked well when I have tried it

 

[PCustoms]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X2QM3G?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have one that I've used a couple times, but it's mainly just sat. Bought it with the intention of cleaning up a ton of pulled decking but decided to junk them instead. It worked well when I have tried it

Oddly was pulling nails from used decking last week thinking this would be cool to have. Want to sell it?

As for the OP, I have a blue cats paw for normal work and a 36" wrecking bar for construction nails and generally ripping things apart.

Embedded nails and brads in nicer woodworking usually gets some variation of an old chisel to get some of the fastener exposed then vise grips to yank it.

 

[jack stand]

Leverage!

 

[dogdog]

I have the older version of the Stanley fatmax crowbar but basically the same. If you need to do a lot of nails. Then you will need a a regular flat prybar that is about 15” ones, a locking plier, a regular claw hammer, a diagonal cutter, and this heavy duty fatmax.

Pulled about 5 gallon full bucket nails from the last renovation.

The locking pliers are for holding the nail incase you stripped the head

The cheap diagonal cutter are for holding head that is in wood similar use of locking pliers

Hammer….

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT0OVVC?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOXHMTM?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[BTL-A4]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003X2QM3G?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have one that I've used a couple times, but it's mainly just sat. Bought it with the intention of cleaning up a ton of pulled decking but decided to junk them instead. It worked well when I have tried it

Thanks! I never knew this kind of tool existed! I might still need a crowbar of some sort; this can push the nails out, but in some of the videos the nails didn't come all the way out.

 

[BTL-A4]

I have some nails that do not have a pointed end that sticks out; they have to be removed via crowbar. Looks like a gooseneck one that is longer than the 12" one I currently have is in order? Is a flat bar better?

 

[mike93lx]

Thanks! I never knew this kind of tool existed! I might still need a crowbar of some sort; this can push the nails out, but in some of the videos the nails didn't come all the way out.

Yeah, it won't always pop them out the whole way, but it gets them nearly there. If you use it, do the removal over a trash can or bucket as it will send some flying quite a distance.

I like a ripping claw hammer for the last little bit

 

[tarmy]

Cats paw will pull those as well.

 

[danielbuck]

I've been pulling LOTS of 4" nails out of a very old (100+ years?) fence, to save the fence boards to re-use them as I fix parts of the fence structure and replace some poles. I've found that using a crowbar type nail puller and a block of wood works nicely. I get the nail started using a real thin piece of wood under the crowbar(like 1/2" thick or so) if I can't already start pulling it, then slide the shortest end of another the block of wood (1.5"x3") under the puller and pull the nail as far as I can. Then flip the block of wood up on it's end (taller) and finish pulling the nail that way. Works really well, gives you plenty of leverage and height, and as a side benefit it keeps the puller from making a dent/mark in the wood that you're pulling nails from.

when possible, I found that pounding them out from the back to get them started worked well. And eventually started just pounding the ones I had access to from the back, and then finishing pounding them with a long thin punch, that worked pretty well and was probably a bit faster.

Using a magnettic sweeper on the ground afterwords is a great way to pick up all the old nails.

 

[WoodsTruck]

My dad bought one of these in the late 60's, I bought mine in about 2001. Wouldn't be without it.

https://www.amazon.com/CRESCENT-19-Nail-Puller-56NP/dp/B09PD76TD2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[jsaw]

Can You grab onto the nail with a large pair of end nippers and lever it out?
Have You ever used sidecutters to pull cotter pins?
My granddad used to use bolt cutters to grip the nail carefully without cutting through it and lever it out of a board. Of course that was after the nail is partly pulled from the board.

 

[whateg01]

If you have enough nails to pull, a crowbar will be easier. But you can also stick a 2x4 under the hammer to get more leverage. I have found that most crowbar don't really grip the nail very well, relying on the nail head not to pop off. My claw it demolition hammers bite into the shank of the nail.

 

[nadogail]

My dad bought one of these in the late 60's, I bought mine in about 2001. Wouldn't be without it.

https://www.amazon.com/CRESCENT-19-Nail-Puller-56NP/dp/B09PD76TD2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

i used one of those in the late '50's, I thought it was a wonderful tool, at the time.

 

[jsaw]

My Estwing hammer has hardened jaws that will bit into the shank of the nail so as to grab onto and pull the nail out

 

[GeoBruin]

I have a pair of these and they work great. Somehow, despite being no longer than a hammer, they make it much easier to pull the nail out than using the hammer's claw. Probably she shape/size/location of the little rocker.

 

[joe49]

!st) If you don't mind damage to the wood catspaw to lift the head of the nail or driving from the back. Then a framing hammer used side ways to lever out the nails. Nails kind of ruined.
2nd) The knocker is worth it for the money if you have lots to pull and have a compressor.
3rd) If you don't want to mar the lumber much a Knocker used with a Wonder bar, will distribute the force of pulling over a larger area.
4th) A scrap of plwood under the Wonder bar will help protect the lumber.

 

[BTL-A4]

Thanks to all! I bought a gooseneck crowbar and that seems to work. However, it will rip the heads off some of the nails because it can't grip them well. The V notch has sides that are too steep. I may have to get a flat bar one or something with a shallower angle to pull them up a bit.

I'm not too worried about damaging the wood because it will be planed/jointed/sawed. A few flaws won't be an issue; adds character!

I'll also have to try using pliers to pull/roll them out. These are construction nails, so they might be too big, though.

I also thought I might get one of these:


Looks like it has a V groove that will not break a nail head.

 

[goodWood]

these work well if the head is chewed up or missing

 

[claymont]

 

[BTL-A4]

@claymont thank you very much! That was helpful. I went out and tried it and it worked great. I even got a few nails up that had no heads. My claw hammer can grip the head and pull.

 

[Dig Doug]

I used one of these for 12-15 years !

there are different types but the same principle.
some are better at digging in and gripping the nail head

 

[BTL-A4]

I need something that digs in and grips the heads of nails that have been sheared off flush. I used a chisel to dig around the head, then bigger wire cutters to pull the shaft up and out. That works on the smaller nails best. I'll have to take a look at a tool like the one referenced above (thanks, @Dig Doug ) and see if it looks like it will dig into the wood a bit. I have 100's of nails to remove. I can do a few at a time, though.

 

[Dig Doug]

I need something that digs in and grips the heads of nails that have been sheared off flush. I used a chisel to dig around the head, then bigger wire cutters to pull the shaft up and out. That works on the smaller nails best. I'll have to take a look at a tool like the one referenced above (thanks, @Dig Doug ) and see if it looks like it will dig into the wood a bit. I have 100's of nails to remove. I can do a few at a time, though.

What situation are you pulling nails? Can you describe the task / project ?

exterior siding
trim pieces
remodeling


in situations you can remover the wood and have part of the nail you can grip onto
or
hammer in flush to the framing and not remove the nail


your thread just asked about pulling nails and not the task in which nails are being pulled - there might be an easier way to get the same result…

or
maybe not…

 

[whateg01]

I have to pull quite a few nails out of some wood pieces I'm repurposing. They must come completely out because I'm jointing, planing and table-sawing them to size. ...

...
or
hammer in flush to the framing and not remove the nail


your thread just asked about pulling nails and not the task in which nails are being pulled - there might be an easier way to get the same result…

or
maybe not…

Planers, jointers, and table saws some really like nails.

 

[MongoTA]

I use a cat's paw, pretty much the same tool that DigDoug linked to above. By far it's the best tool to get to a nail head that's flush or recessed in lumber.

That and a Estwing all-steel framing hammer. Great hammer for demo work.

I'll use the hammer to pound the cat's paw under the nail head. Pry it up. If the nail is long and I need more leverage, to pull it out of the wood I use the hammer's head underneath the cat's paw for added leverage.

Been using the cat's paw for over 50 years. Haven't found anything as versatile for a wide range of nails sunk in a wide variety of wood. When I was a kid a side job was breaking down pallets and crates used when shipping machinery.

A flat prybar can sometimes be a good companion tool. Hammer the prybar between two boards, pry it up just a bit, pound the top board back down to expose the nail heads. Or if they separate easily, pry the board off completely, then the nails from behind to drive them out backwards to expose the heads, then pull them.

 

[cgrutt]

Cats paw works great problem with it is you will damage wood that will be repurposed. In OP's case I'd hit the head out from behind if possible and use a claw hammer with possibly a piece of wood to minimize marring. Some of those thin staples/brads look like they can be pulled out with a pair of linesman pliers.

 

[esben57]

You may have seen this bloke ,Shadowfoam, this has a nail puller at 4mins 50 seconds.
Also have a look at the Cobalt drill set around 2m 20. I bought a set last year from them. Not too bad, drilled the heads off some awkward old decking screws. May be sending a couple of drills back just about destroyed. The sharpener come file thingy is ok. Gave me some extra screwdriver bits and SDS attachment.
Just can't resist snake oil.

 

[bwringer]

This is yet another example of a fundamental GJ principle: the only correct answer to "which tool?" is ALL THE TOOLS!

In other words, you will need several solutions on hand for this project. There's no one right answer for all nails and all situations.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I have a set of Gorilla bars my parents bought me. I think the long bar is 30" long.

 

[rlitman]

I have some nails that do not have a pointed end that sticks out; they have to be removed via crowbar. Looks like a gooseneck one that is longer than the 12" one I currently have is in order? Is a flat bar better?

Flat bars are popular for several reasons, but nail pulling is not their strong point. Being wide, they're better for removing trim without damaging, and can be used to lift a door during hinge installation, or space deck boards. It's more of an all-around tool.

The pneumatic denailer is a huge time saver when you have access to the points and some shank, but when pulling by the head you have a few options, depending on how much you're willing to damage wood around an embedded head.

A cat's paw can be hammered under a nail head. The chrome plated Esting with the rubber grip version is better for smaller nails, and their mini one is amazing on staples. I use these to lift the head just enough to then pull the nail with a bigger bar with a wider knuckle to roll on. My favorite is the Estwing I-Beam bar, but an 18" bar can be hard on the elbows with bigger or rustier nails, so I have a 24" backup. Especially on the cat's paw, don't be afraid to sharpen the tips a bit with a file. It can make a big difference in making it easier to get the bar into place.

Sliding nail pullers are the only type of puller that can effectively pull a nail by the shank. When you're managed to rip the head off already, they're a lifesaver:

 

[BTL-A4]

So far, the best solution is the one @claymont provided. I dig a little around the broken heads with a small chisel to expose some shaft, use wire cutters to grab the shaft, then use my claw hammer as noted in the video in post #20 to pull the nail out. I have the boards clamped down on a table.

 

[BTL-A4]

What situation are you pulling nails? Can you describe the task / project ?

exterior siding
trim pieces
remodeling


in situations you can remover the wood and have part of the nail you can grip onto
or
hammer in flush to the framing and not remove the nail


your thread just asked about pulling nails and not the task in which nails are being pulled - there might be an easier way to get the same result…

or
maybe not…

I'm pulling a bunch of nails out of pallet wood. I'm going to repurpose the wood for some small table stands to use at work (I teach high school and need some cheap table for students to work on), so they don't have to be pretty. I'm going to joint, plane and table saw them to size, so the nails have to go, but a few flaws rom disassembly are fine for my purposes; adds character! Ha! I'm also going to paint them, so most flaws will disappear anyway.

 

[BTL-A4]

Sliding nail pullers are the only type of puller that can effectively pull a nail by the shank. When you're managed to rip the head off already, they're a lifesaver:

I'll have to look into these, thanks! I've had success with using my claw hammer to get headless nails out. The inside edges of the claws dig into the nail head, and pulling it out sideways grips the shaft and it comes out fairly easily. Bends the nail and you have to re-engage the claw a few times and bend it a few times, but it works. It doesn't require tons of strength, either. I just wish there was some sort of pneumatic puller. Something like the pneumatic denailer, put pulls instead of pushes.

 

[Lumpy102]

As a kid I was tasked with pulling nails from recycled lumber, (I suspect when Dad wanted me out of his hair for a few hours) and for the most part, used a sliding nail puller as mentioned above. Hands looked like hamburger by the end of the day, caught the web between my thumb and first finger too many times in the slide hammer puller, switched hands and did it some more. Worked pretty well to start the nails out of the wood, used a 24 inch wrecking bar to pull them the last part. The suggestion above to place a scrap of 2X4 under the pivot point of the wrecking bar to finish the pull is a real labour saver (closer to the nail the better)
I have and use an Estwing cats paw as above, works better for smaller nails, its intended to drive in under the head of the nail, and pry it out the first inch or so. Mine is still sharp enough to catch the shank of a nail when the head has popped off.
I've watched carpenters drive the claws of one hammer against the shank of a nail with no head with another hammer and then pivot the driven hammer sideways, bending the nail over as it pulls out (sharply increased leverage)

 

[BTL-A4]

Using a hammer as shown in the photo, it took me about 15 minutes to remove about 40 nails from 2 pieces of wood. I broke a few heads off, but was able to get them out.

I'm finding I would like more leverage. The hammer works fine, but it takes a few pulls to get the nails out. I've put a piece of wood under it and that helps, but not as much as I think it should. Maybe I'm just impatient!

Here is the pile of almost 50 boards that have about 6 nails each:

I think I will get the pneumatic denailer for these. I'm hoping it will push them all the way out. If not, I'll try using my 24" gooseneck crowbar, or the method I've been using, to pull them all the way out.

 

[BTL-A4]

I just wish there was some sort of pneumatic puller. Something like the pneumatic denailer, put pulls instead of pushes.

To answer my own question: there is a puller. It's $170. Not sure it's worth it for the amount of nails I have.

 

[rlitman]

...I think I will get the pneumatic denailer for these. I'm hoping it will push them all the way out. If not, I'll try using my 24" gooseneck crowbar, or the method I've been using, to pull them all the way out.

Mine all too often shoots the nail out, so I try to have the head over a trash can. Anyway, once the nail is fired, it usually doesn't take much pulling force to remove what's left.

To answer my own question: there is a puller. It's $170. Not sure it's worth it for the amount of nails I have.

I don't see the utility in that. Nails are easy enough to pull, once the head is lifted. The hard part is getting under the head, and that tool doesn't do that. I think it's for taking apart crates assembled with double headed nails.

 

[Joemctag]

I have to pull quite a few nails out of some wood pieces I'm repurposing. They must come completely out because I'm jointing, planing and table-sawing them to size. I've been using a claw hammer, but it requires some leverage. I'm wondering if I should get a longer crow bar or if there is something better out there. These appear to have been nailed in with an air nailer, as all the heads are below the surface. I'm having to pound them out from the back and then use the claw hammer to pull them out. I have several hundred to pull and would like a way that doesn't require so much of my strength; let the tool do the work! Please advise.

Some photos of the nails:




Thanks!

Standard crowbar 24” to 36” long. The only trick is holding the piece of wood. Stepping on it can be awkward. You could make a jig to hold down one end. I’ve got lots of experience pulling nails. Good luck. Easist to yank on crowbar instead of slowly pulling. If you can stand those boards up and yank downward with the crowbar, that’s my preferred way. You’re banging them out as far as you can, first, right.

 

[csp]

I'll use flat bars, the Crescent nail puller I got at a garage sale, or ear clamp pliers for nail pulling. The ear clamp pliers are great if the head has come off.