Nailing Sheathing Trouble

[icecactus]

Looking for some tips here. I am building a shed and putting sheathing on the walls. The Sheathing is placed vertical and I am using 2-3/8" ring shanked nails in a pneumatic gun.

Where the 2 plywood panels **** together (with 1/8" gap), I am having a heck of a time from keeping the nails from blowing out through the stud. I spent half my time last night pounding the nails back out. Its like they hit the grain and fly out the 3.5" side of the 2x4 stud. Am I doing something wrong?

The shed won't be finished off, so I don't want any nails poking through.

 

[buddyboy]

if you are shooting them straight in then try shooting them at an angle

if you are shooting them at an angle maybe try adjusting the angle

i try to imagine the nail going thru the sheathing and into the stud diagonally from one corner to the other (max distance in stud)

 

[buddyboy]

just wanted to add that I only do that on the edges of sheets, I shoot straight as long as i can hit the middle of the stud. anywhere else I angle slightly to have the nail go into the 'mass' of the stud, not the edges

 

[readhead]

As said above, just angle the nails. Are the sheets sized for spacing? Some are and some aren't. Should say on the sheet or measure and see if the sheet is undersize.

 

[icecactus]

I have tried angling the gun and it doesn't seem to matter. In fact, I almost have better luck with it straight on. It's 4x8 Radiant Barrier OSB. Measures 47-7/8" wide.

Its a very fine window of angle too. If I angle too much then it blows out other side. Its difficult to tell with the nail gun where its going to go since the tip is large.

 

[wbrian63]

I'm assuming your sheathing is 1/2, or maybe 5/8" thick? If so, a 2-3/8" RS nail is too long. All you need in this instance is a 1-1/2" RS nail. "Rule of thumb" = thickness of siding x 3 = nail length.

Pneumatic nails are really bad about following the grain of a piece of lumber. It may be that is part of your problem.

I've seen them almost make a U-turn when encountering a knot. You may want to resort to a hand-nailed solution for the edges. Pilot drill the hole with a bit about 1/2 the diameter of the nail only to about 1/2" into the 2x4 and then drive the nail home. Won't be able to use the nails for the nail gun - they're typically too soft to be driven with a hammer.

Worse comes to worse, can you double-up the studs where the sheets meet? A 4x8 shed would only need 2 extra studs. A 8 x 16 shed would only need 5 extra studs. Of course, you'd need to shift the existing stud over 3/4" where the sheets meet.

 

[rieferman]

+1 on above... shorter nails, or try hand nailing (or screwing), or double up stud if all else fails.

 

[icecactus]

I'm assuming your sheathing is 1/2, or maybe 5/8" thick? If so, a 2-3/8" RS nail is too long. All you need in this instance is a 1-1/2" RS nail. "Rule of thumb" = thickness of siding x 3 = nail length.

Pneumatic nails are really bad about following the grain of a piece of lumber. It may be that is part of your problem.

I've seen them almost make a U-turn when encountering a knot. You may want to resort to a hand-nailed solution for the edges. Pilot drill the hole with a bit about 1/2 the diameter of the nail only to about 1/2" into the 2x4 and then drive the nail home. Won't be able to use the nails for the nail gun - they're typically too soft to be driven with a hammer.

Its 15/32nd thick. Code here requires 8d for roof sheathing, and at least 6d for wall. I just bought all 8d thinking why use 2 different nail sizes. Lowes also had a good deal on a 5000 piece box of 2-3/8 ring shank. Its a shed so I don't have to follow code. However, code is code for a reason so I am trying to stick to it.

This is my first time ever building something like this. Maybe I am misunderstanding the nail size required?

I think I might pick up 2" (6d) ring shank and try those. See if that helps. Was trying to save a few bucks by using all same size. I also figured out that the large tip is a no mar tip that can be removed. So I will try removing that too and see if my accuracy improves.

The studs are douglas fir.

 

[Wanna Ride]

if you are shooting them straight in then try shooting them at an angle

if you are shooting them at an angle maybe try adjusting the angle

Was a carpenter about 25 years ago and we used to call this "toe-nailing" if I remember correctly.

 

[YukonXL04]

What pressure are you running the nail gun at? almost seems like the pressure is too high.

 

[icecactus]

What pressure are you running the nail gun at? almost seems like the pressure is too high.

90 lbs.

 

[wantacoe]

Have you tried backing the pressure off to see if it helps?

 

[icecactus]

Have you tried backing the pressure off to see if it helps?

No, I think minimum my gun supports is 70 lbs. 70 lbs to 120 lbs max.

I suppose I could try that too.

 

[YukonXL04]

is the nail hitting the 2x4 and then curving back out the side on the 3.5 side? or is it actually shooting straight through the whole 3.5" stud?

I would try different shorter nails, cheaper nails have more tendency to catch the grain and follow, where as good nails have a better chance of going through the grain. either way your definitely better off with a shorter nail

 

[icecactus]

They are grip-rite brand. .113 2-3/8". I know douglas fir is a royal PITA to drill straight through as times. The bit wants to follow the grain.

They are bending and coming out the 3.5" side.

 

[YukonXL04]

ah okay, I was misunderstanding the first post.

yea shorter nails should help with them bending back out

 

[CNGsaves]

You're bringing a bazooka to a watergun fight !!

Skip the air powered nail gun with long ring shank nails, and hand nail with 1 1/2" nails. Sheathing doesn't need to be "hurricane proof" and you're just tearing up all the studs that need to be in good shape to accept nails for the siding.

Now the siding (like concrete hardy board) would be good candidate for air nailer with ring shank nails.

 

[DPG]

If it continues to drive you nuts, add another stud.

 

[Daniel Dudley]

Use the shorter nail. Nail 3/8 inch from the edge. Angle to center. Keep nailing. Knock out the duds.

 

[fountain]

I have been framing forever. It takes a lot of practice to shoot seams without blasting out the sides. Hand nail the seams and blast the other studs.

 

[Falcon67]

For butting my Hardi siding sheets, I added a stud at every joint. Fixes that problem cheap.

 

[David C]

I have seen 10d full length nails installed thru 1/2" ply into 2x studs without any problem for the past 35 years. Occasionally there is a shiner that needs to be pulled, and a new nail applied.

Our code, for schools, requires the contractor to do this successfully or he must nail by hand. This penalty is a killer and they all learn how to do this.

 

[icecactus]

Appreciate the feedback guys. I bought some 2" ring shanks and will try those. I am also going to remove the no mar tip and see if that helps with my aim into the center more. If I still have trouble, I will hand nail them. Really trying to avoid that though since I have some tendinitis in my elbow right now.

 

[ez-duzit]

Your studs are probably dry. Green 2x's are easier to nail.

 

[cdestuck]

How many 2x4s would it take you to throw up a second one where two pieces of OSB meet. I've done this now and then when doing work on old walls were the 16" spacing was a bit off

 

[little d]

I'm with Foutain on this one. You are not doing anything wrong really, it's just hard to do without a lot of practice and even then.... Put the air nailer down and hammer in the 6's or 8's on the seams, I do.

 

[laser3kw]

If so, a 2-3/8" RS nail is too long. All you need in this instance is a 1-1/2" RS nail. "Rule of thumb" = thickness of siding x 3 = nail length.

^^^^^ do this
I'm not a carpenter as a professional, but I was wondering why you would use such a long nail also ( I read the responses). The longer the nail, the better chance to blow it out.

 

[icecactus]

I tried the 2" ring shank over the weekend and it was night and day difference. I had only 3 blow outs on the 3 other walls. Compared to about 20 on 1 wall with the 2-3/8".

Thanks for the tips!