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Need an Engine Stand

Junkman

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I know that I am going to be needing an engine stand to do the engine work on my car. I am looking for suggestions as to which ones are good, and which to stay away from. I would like to find a used one to keep costs down, but that is only a remote possibility. Pictures appreciated..Thanks Junk.....
 
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I LUST for an AXE engine stand , the choice of all the big time nascar boys
axe.jpg
 

RPH

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Michigan Thumb
Get a four wheel unit for stability. Weight load of 1000 #, at least. Long handle for rotation when needed. Leave handle through holes so mounting pin can't come out. Dropping motor on floor bad thing. Depending on China, Mexico, US made will determine final price. 50 - 200 dollars should cover it. 100 bucks gets you a decent one.
 

bmwpower

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I LUST for an AXE engine stand , the choice of all the big time nascar boys
axe.jpg

Where were you when we were all looking for a quality engine stand. Where do I buy one? I may sell mine to Junk for a nice blue Axe...
 

Freejack

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St. Peters MO
The coolest one I've seen was a home-built stand that used a final drive gearbox from old John Deere combine that allowed the engine to be rotated with just a crank, great for heavy engines.

The stands I like have two legs with the wheels equally spaced, rather than the a T-bar with front two wheels on a narrower spacing.

Jake
 

bmwpower

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Here we go again...... A repeat performance of "Lets make a deal".....:bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

You asked for this one this time....you wanted a used stand...and I might have one for you to hold your big a$$ engine from OH. Hard to believe you ACTUALLY paid for something...then you try to get other people to pick i up for you...boy, gets better all the time. :)
 
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J

Junkman

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I actually bought 2 engines...... one in Ohio and one in PA. I was headed to PA to pick it up, when I got a call from a friend asking if I wanted to go to Virgina for 10 days. It was more time than I had to spend, but he did pick up my engine for me on the way back. I have that one on my trailer with no place to put it, or a way to get it there. It is out of a 1978 Eldorado, and it still has the transmission attached. I know that is going to be a treat to get apart and off the trailer. I need a bigger tractor that can lift more than 400 pounds...
 
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Junkman

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I found a used Cornwell Model CSE-1250 (bottom of page) for $175. I don't know if this is a good price or not, since they don't have prices on the on line catalog. It is really more than I want to spend, but I can sell it when I am done with it and recoup some or all of my money. Does anyone know how much this one sells for new? thanks Junk.....
 

jimmycrackcorn

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I found a used Cornwell Model CSE-1250 (bottom of page) for $175. I don't know if this is a good price or not, since they don't have prices on the on line catalog. It is really more than I want to spend, but I can sell it when I am done with it and recoup some or all of my money. Does anyone know how much this one sells for new? thanks Junk.....

That looks like the OTC one i seen in tooltopia...
 

bmwpower

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That cornwell looks like all the other china stuff. I could be wrong. Looks like the one I want to sell you.

I found a used Cornwell Model CSE-1250 (bottom of page) for $175. I don't know if this is a good price or not, since they don't have prices on the on line catalog. It is really more than I want to spend, but I can sell it when I am done with it and recoup some or all of my money. Does anyone know how much this one sells for new? thanks Junk.....
 

W-Cummins

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Looks like they make a foldable one, too!

http://www.axeequipment.com/enginestands.htm


Well I don't really see any thing that great about them. The folding one will only support 750 lbs so why use that huge tubing to build it? Second thing I don't like is it appears that you can not lock the head down to prevent rotation. Third it looks like you can not remove the head to attach it to the engine before you hang it on the stand. I would also like to have one with a gear drive head on it, for easy rotation ( like the big stands do) ... I do like their tear down table stand. I think that I might have to make one of those (some day) with the mods as above....

William....
 

the intimidator

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ontario canada
hmm I was just going to start a post about engine stands :D I am liking the idea of making my own I have 4 big casters and abought 20 feet of 2x2 steel laying around I can figure out the main frame but what about the part that turns and how do I get the spacing and what not for the part that mounts to the engine?

I think building my own would be much better then most of the cheap **** around here anything I have seen decent was 200+ dollars Decent in the fact that they don't wobble with no weight on them and they are rated at more then 600 pounds. any more info on the spacing and how to build the rotating part would be great thank s
 
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bmwpower

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Here's another one I like by OTC. Design is not perfect, but it has poly wheels, a hand crank and is foldable. Price is $500+.

2025_660.jpg
 

danski0224

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I have a Snap-On engine stand that is foldable and it has a crank to rotate the engine. It was US made when I bought it.

Doesn't seem to be listed online.
 

bmwpower

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Reply from AXE:

The ES-40 Engine Stand sells for $490.00 Each plus shipping
We no longer offer the ES-40C
Thanks

Terry Erichsen
Sales
Axe Equipment/Stinger by Axe
P.O. Box 296/Hwy 177 N
Council Grove, KS 66846
800-251-0018 FAX 620-767-5482
Email: [email protected]


Stinger?? Do they make the Stinger stuff??
 

PAToyota

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As stout as that thing is, $490 seems like a deal - except that shipping for that monster is probably going to be half the price of the stand...

I do really like the looks of it though...
 

W-Cummins

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As stout as that thing is, $490 seems like a deal - except that shipping for that monster is probably going to be half the price of the stand...

I do really like the looks of it though...

Don't think it's a deal at all. About $300 more than it's worth. The OTC has better casters and wheels and also has the geared head and I wouldn't pay $500 for it either... I bet there is not $150 in parts/materials in the blue one... heck I bet HF could whip one out for under $150 and make a nice profit on it too.....

William....
 

5wndwcpe

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I too checked into the geared models and was told by more than one person that the gearboxes get sloppy after awhile. Also, the u-shaped stands won't fit between the legs of my engine hoist. I finally settled on a 4 wheel T-style stand. Holds up the big block Chryslers just fine.
 

bmwpower

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I too checked into the geared models and was told by more than one person that the gearboxes get sloppy after awhile. Also, the u-shaped stands won't fit between the legs of my engine hoist. I finally settled on a 4 wheel T-style stand. Holds up the big block Chryslers just fine.

Yes, that is the same problem with my U shaped stand...hard to get the motor on it without a lot of swinging/jockeying.
 

bmwpower

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so every engine stand should cost a hundred bucks

I don't agree with that. I can't weld (yet) and I sure as hell can't weld something that will potentially drop my expensive engine on my foot. I'm not even sure I'd do it if I could weld.

I'd gladly pay for a stand that was top notch, but I just can't find one. For some reason, there doesn't seem to be a lot of companies willing to make one besides the China connection.
 
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I have an OTC , a Matco and a Lakewood , the lakewood bounces with a big block on it and it is really unstable
how about blackhawk ? the vast majority of shops I worked at had blackhawk or lincoln
 

PAToyota

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Don't think it's a deal at all. About $300 more than it's worth. The OTC has better casters and wheels and also has the geared head and I wouldn't pay $500 for it either... I bet there is not $150 in parts/materials in the blue one... heck I bet HF could whip one out for under $150 and make a nice profit on it too.....

William....

I don't know... I've seen HF's "2000 lb" engine stand for $110 and there is no way I'd put my 6.5L TD on it... And if HF made the AXE one, the tubing would likely be thinner, the welds would be questionable, and the casters would definitely ****... But I'll agree that $500 is probably a bit high after thinking about it some more.

Actually, what the AXE does is give me some ideas for welding up my own version... :D
 

bmwpower

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I don't know... I've seen HF's "2000 lb" engine stand for $110 and there is no way I'd put my 6.5L TD on it... And if HF made the AXE one, the tubing would likely be thinner, the welds would be questionable, and the casters would definitely ****... But I'll agree that $500 is probably a bit high after thinking about it some more.

Actually, what the AXE does is give me some ideas for welding up my own version... :D

Is there any advantage, structurally, in making the legs angular like that? Or was it done for looks?

axe.jpg
 

W-Cummins

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I don't know... I've seen HF's "2000 lb" engine stand for $110 and there is no way I'd put my 6.5L TD on it... And if HF made the AXE one, the tubing would likely be thinner, the welds would be questionable, and the casters would definitely ****... But I'll agree that $500 is probably a bit high after thinking about it some more.

Actually, what the AXE does is give me some ideas for welding up my own version... :D

I have 2 of the one ton HF stands, and I will agree that they aren't the best you can buy. They are the best I could buy for the $85 shipped to my door I paid for them! I could make my own stand with out any problems, but I couldn't make one for $85, I can't buy the materials for that price. As for putting a stink bomb like a 6.5 td on it I wouldn't do it either, but I would have no problem using it for the heavier 6bta :lol::lol: At about 1k I would have a 2X safety margin, I know I wouldn't put 2k on it though! The main problem with the HF stand is the rotation and locking of the head ( same design as 99% of all engine stands) It's a pain to rotate an engine as soon as it gets out of balance (all most as soon as you start if your not careful)

I don't think you could make the stand out of much lighter tubing than they did on the blue stand 3"X4" .092 wall is about as light as I have seen that large of tube. I guess you might be able to get it in .065 from some place

Is there any advantage, structurally, in making the legs angular like that? Or was it done for looks?


Well it would save them some tubbing and it would add up if your making lots of them. Otherwise it's just for looks... Plating the ends of the tube will make it a bit stronger but I can't see any added strength from the mitered end.

William....
 

PAToyota

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Is there any advantage, structurally, in making the legs angular like that? Or was it done for looks?

As William says, mitered and plated ends. Just cleaner rather than any real structural benefit.

As for putting a stink bomb like a 6.5 td on it I wouldn't do it either, but I would have no problem using it for the heavier 6bta :lol::lol:

I've seen those HF stands bend alarming under less weight than the 6.5 - and not sure what your problems are with the 6.5. Understandably, not the power of a Cummins but good mileage and service for my use.
 

stepsideclyde

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Apr 14, 2006
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Hancock County, Maine
Here is an idea that we used at our shop to build a stand to overhaul truck diffs. this could be uses if you built your own stand, or to retrofit a stand that you already have, to supply rotation without the long handle. Obtain a brake slack adjuster (manual, not an automatic slack), for a large truck with air brakes, along with this, get a s cam with the same amount of splines as the adjuster (prolly either 10 or 28 spline) cut off the s on the cam ,leaving you with a shaft with a spline on it. if your lucky, the shaft will fit thru the same hole that the original rotating shaft on the stand has. If not, you may have to fabricate bushings or spacers. Weld plate that bolts to the engine to the splined shaft where you cut off the s from the cam, leaving the splined end to the outside. Install slack adjuster to the splined end of cam. using a bolt, insert it thru the lowest hole in the slack adjuster and weld it to the stem of the stand. Then you can use a 9/16 socket on the slack adjuster to rotate the engine. It even has a pop up lock that stops rotation when you remove the socket. the parts are not expensive new, and if you knew someone at a truck shop you prolly could get used parts for nuthin'

tc
 

TNToy

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I can check on the price of the Cornwell one on Monday if you want. I haven't got a price list at home, but there's one in my box.

The Cornwell one will be someone else's rebadged tool. Heck, a lot of their tools can be identified pretty easily:
OTC-1874 might be the Cornwell part number for a pilot bearing puller, for example. Care to guess who makes it for them? ;)
 
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