Need info on this light
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alfredeneuman
Well-known member
The bulb looks like a Metal Halide.
The wire is a solid UF cable.
The plug can't go directly on it.... get some stranded cord
The wire is a solid UF cable.
The plug can't go directly on it.... get some stranded cord
klassenl
Well-known member
Open it and find the ratings on the ballast inside
nadogail
Well-known member
On the ballast, that transformer looking thing, there should be a lable identifying the connections and voltage requirements. Some ballasts have multiple taps for different voltages, the ideal would be a a Quadra Tap Ballast allowing 480,277,220 or 208 and 120 volts.
You are not going to find a HID ballast for 220V made for US market, a quad tapped in particular, GE made their own ballasts, so the OP is going to have look for a label on the fixture for voltage information.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
Quad tap ballasts are 120, 208, 240, and 277V capable.
No 480.
driftpin
Well-known member
Looks like an edison-base bulb, shouldn't it have a voltage stamping on the brass?
No, they require a ballast.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
It's a Mogul base. (Like a oversize Edison base)
Shiftless
Well-known member
That’s gonna be really bright. Don’t look directly at the bulb. I’d expect over 20,000 lumens.
Chuckster in NJ
Well-known member
When the bulb burns out….. Toss it and install a LED fixture.
You will save money and thank me later.
You will save money and thank me later.
Metal halide isn't bad. I would maintain it unless you're running it dusk to dawn every night. A halfway decent led fixture to replace it with be around $300. A cheap led fixture is probably less reliable
klassenl
Well-known member
Let it cool and try it again. When those are at the end of their life cycle they will gain full brightness and the go out.
A new bulb isn't that much money.
A new bulb isn't that much money.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
Metal Halide fixtures take a minimum of 10 minutes to come to their full brilliance
You said it has a photocell. Do you have it covered?
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
A photocell would have cut the power to the fixture completely.
He said the ballast was still humming after the bulb went out.
He said the ballast was still humming after the bulb went out.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
How would you use a voltmeter with no voltage to the fixture?
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
There may not be anything wrong with the light.
I'd suggest plugging it in and letting it fully start. It may take 10 min or more.
I'd suggest plugging it in and letting it fully start. It may take 10 min or more.
Something is wrong if the bulb strikes, then goes back out...
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
OP >>> When the bulb "quit" did it go completely black, or just dim.
When MH lamps start, they are bright for a few seconds, then dim and gradually brighten.
When MH lamps start, they are bright for a few seconds, then dim and gradually brighten.
Bert
It was daylight. Hadn’t had my coffee yet. Got to have that for the brain to function
Alfredeneuman. It was humming last night in the dark but not this morning in daylight
tried it again 20 minutes ago and it worked fine
I let it run for 15 minutes
My question now is could I take the photo sensor out of the equation and use a regular wall switch upstream I think the sensor had 2 wires going to it. Wire nut them together maybe
I’ll look at the sensor wiring in the morning
This is mounted on the top of the fixture
Is this the photo sensor. I’m assuming it is
I appreciate yal guys trying to help me out
It was daylight. Hadn’t had my coffee yet. Got to have that for the brain to function
Alfredeneuman. It was humming last night in the dark but not this morning in daylight
tried it again 20 minutes ago and it worked fine
I let it run for 15 minutes
My question now is could I take the photo sensor out of the equation and use a regular wall switch upstream I think the sensor had 2 wires going to it. Wire nut them together maybe
I’ll look at the sensor wiring in the morning
This is mounted on the top of the fixture
Is this the photo sensor. I’m assuming it is
I appreciate yal guys trying to help me out
djhutt
Member
At the outlet the photocell plugs into connect the red and black wire cap or leave the white. This will bypass the photocell
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
Here's a simple way. It also serves as a surge protector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083FCG2JD/?tag=atomicindus08-20
quickfarms
Well-known member
Metal halide bulbs usually glow purple on startup when they are starting to die
I like the shorting cap
I’m thinking about putting the light on a let’s say a 2 1/4 galvanized pole which would be in the ground to get it in the air
What would be the best way to mount it on the pole. Haven’t bought anything yet
I’m wide open for suggestions
Here’s the bracket that came with it
I’m thinking about putting the light on a let’s say a 2 1/4 galvanized pole which would be in the ground to get it in the air
What would be the best way to mount it on the pole. Haven’t bought anything yet
I’m wide open for suggestions
Here’s the bracket that came with it
How tall? That small of pipe will be pretty floppy if you go very tall.I like the shorting cap
I’m thinking about putting the light on a let’s say a 2 1/4 galvanized pole which would be in the ground to get it in the air
What would be the best way to mount it on the pole. Haven’t bought anything yet
I’m wide open for suggestions
Here’s the bracket that came with it