Need Recommendation for Multi-Use Space

[Super90]

About to occupy a space that will be used for a few things:
- Car maintenance and repair with a couple of lifts, one two post, one scissor lift
- Car storage and maybe occasional washing.
- Small "office" environment - a desk with PC, chair etc.

Space is 32' x 75', so 2,400 sq ft in total. Bay doors on both ends for easy access. Akin to "flex industrial", with HVAC, in North Texas.

Currently the floor seems to be bare concrete.

The main use I want to address is the one that will be the most demanding; the maintenance and repair area. Solvents at times (brake cleaner), oil, coolant, brake fluid, jack stands, floor jacks, etc. etc. It won't have daily, commercial use. This is for personal cars. Hobby repair and service, but engines and transmissions will occasionally be pulled and installed, suspension work, brakes, etc.

I don't mind having the entire floor "battleship" gray, or a sealed concrete, etc. I want it to be easy to keep clean and look as nice as possible, but it's not a showplace. Function over form. A very clean "garage" and not a museum. Need enough texture that slipping is not an issue.

I have in years past used a two part epoxy such as Sherwin Williams Armorseal on garage floors, and that worked well. But, I admittedly am not up to date on the latest advances in this area.

Polyurea coatings? Epoxy? Epoxy base layer then Polyurea coating?

Densifier with a sealer?

Cost is not the most important factor, but it is somewhat of a consideration. Maybe the third most important.

I will have this professionally "installed". I don't have the time to attack this project myself.

What considerations have I missed?

Appreciate the insight and expertise !

 

[Garage Flooring]

I would do a couple of coats of clear polyurea. Tabular alumina in the final coat

 

[FJ4FUN]

For great looks and durability our recommendation is Wolverine Coatings' full ceramic CFLC.
e.g: Emily's floor
e.g: Ryan's floor

 

[Super90]

Thanks.

I reached out to two professional installation groups. Waiting to hear from a third.

Company #1 - $5/sq ft:

• Diamond Grind Surface, Repair Cracks and Imperfections
• Polyaspartic Urethane Basecoat
• Apply Hi-Wear Urethane Topcoat -- Contains 4 Lbs of Aluminum Oxide & Glass Bead per Gallon of Material

Company #2 - $6/sq ft:

• Diamond grind and floor prep
• Epoxy prime coat
• Epoxy pigment coat
• T200 protective Top coat (I believe this to be - XPS - Rockhard T200, which seems to be a plyaspartic top coat)

I'm leaning towards the first option. They say this is what they have used in shop environments (dealership maintenance departments) with great success. They have seem to have more experience.

Thoughts on these two options, which seem very different from one another??

Also, any recommended "install" companies here in North Dallas?

TIA !!

 

[Shea]

Thanks.

I reached out to two professional installation groups. Waiting to hear from a third.

Company #1 - $5/sq ft:

• Diamond Grind Surface, Repair Cracks and Imperfections
• Polyaspartic Urethane Basecoat
• Apply Hi-Wear Urethane Topcoat -- Contains 4 Lbs of Aluminum Oxide & Glass Bead per Gallon of Material

Company #2 - $6/sq ft:

• Diamond grind and floor prep
• Epoxy prime coat
• Epoxy pigment coat
• T200 protective Top coat (I believe this to be - XPS - Rockhard T200, which seems to be a plyaspartic top coat)

I'm leaning towards the first option. They say this is what they have used in shop environments (dealership maintenance departments) with great success. They have seem to have more experience.

Thoughts on these two options, which seem very different from one another??

Also, any recommended "install" companies here in North Dallas?

TIA !!

The final coat, or topcoat, is the wear coat. Option #1 appears to have the better topcoat since it incorporates glass beads and aluminum oxide. This provides wet slip resistance and improves the abrasion resistance (longer wear). I would ask them how rough it is. However, I'm not a big fan of polyaspartic base coats.

Polyaspartic does not adhere as well to concrete as epoxy and polyurea do. It is also extremely moisture-sensitive and cures quickly. The quick curing sometimes hinders adhesion since it doesn't have enough time to penetrate the concrete surface. It's the base coat material that suffers the most issues with peeling. Installers like to use it because it allows for a quicker install and cuts down on the labor. And frankly, they give BS answers as to why they say it's a better basecoat to use.

Are they using 100% solids polyaspartic or solvent-based? 100% solids typically cure the fastest and are thicker. If it's solvent-based, it will cure a bit slower to allow better adhesion, but it is thinner. If the topcoat is applied too soon to solvent-based polyaspartic (again to save time), remaining solvents get trapped and you end up with a VOC problem that can last weeks or more. It's a common complaint. I would have a conversation with them about this before you decide.

Option #2 has a better base coat. Epoxy primer applied to a surface treated via grinding achieves an excellent bond. Add the high solids epoxy color coat to that, and you have a base coat that is solidly adhered and is a few mils or so thicker than the polyaspartic base coat.

 

[Super90]

Thanks Shea !

I'm reading up on it more and catching up. Yes, sounds like epoxy primer and epoxy color coat are preferred. Question is the polyaspartic topcoat they are using, and if we can maybe add glass beads and aluminum oxide? That sounds like it might be the best of combinations?

Much appreciated !

 

[Super90]

OK, next question, or option. Polyurea. Is it more durable? I'm realizing this is what Justin was probably alluding to originally. I just didn't clue in.

Next company says they recommend, either:
(A) - Diamond grind
- Tinted, vapor barrier base coat
- Polyurea topcoat with silica for anti-slip
- $5/ft

(B) - Diamond grind
- Epoxy base coat with vapor barrier
- Polyurea coat
- Topcoat of polyaspartic with silica for anti-slip
- $6/ft

I'm leaning towards Option B from this company. But is it worth the polyaspartic top coat as extra protection? They originally recommended Option A

 

[u2slow]

I have basic (bare) power-trowelled concrete. I feel it has become even smoother in its 12 years from use.

I believe you can have rougher concrete polished also.

No interest in a coating, because I know it will fail with the hard/heavy items that sometimes have to be skidded across the floor.