Need some advice on cleaning up a drill press

[countrytech]

Per: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101506 I got another drill press and even tho I want to keep it, I think I should probably at least try to sell it, but I want to clean it up first and make a little off of it if I can.

So far I cleaned some of the dirt with multi-purpose cleaner and then sprayed PB blaster in the table clamp to loosen up the rust. I sprayed some PB on spindle too, as it seemed to have a very slight amount of rust starting. that seemed to free everything up nice and then I got the column wire brushed and sprayed WD-40 on it hoping to keep everything in rust free condition.

1. Was (is) it a good idea to do everything I did so far?

2. PB blaster isn't going trash anything, right? as I understand it seems to act as a partial lubricant and loosens that rust and grime up so that stuff moves free-er, right?

3. What can I do to smooth up the table some more? all I have at this point are wire wheels I put in my hand drill and run at high speed. That takes the rust off and did a good job on the column, but it's not doing anything other than removing rust on the table. I'd like to smooth it up some if I can without too much trouble.

4 Is WD-40 a good thing to spray it with or should I do something different? My idea is that the WD-40 will help prevent rust and keep everything moving properly...

I know I'm not real skilled and the press still looks a little rough, but I'm looking for help. Where do I go next?

BEFORE

AFTER
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[willy3486]

You got the right idea.On the round tube its mounted on I usually get a strip of sanding belt and just hold each end with each hand and pull back and forth. It cleans up fast. As far as the deck I have used a orbital sander and go around it,not stopping. As far as smoothness I wouldn't worry about it too much. Steel wool can get rust off as well.I used steel wool to clean up my chuck on the walker turner I have. I turned on the drill to a slow speed and pressed the steel wool up to it. I pressed so that if the chuck grabbed it the steel wool wouldn't cut me. Most people are like Homer Simpson, they are mesmerized by shiny. So clean it up. As far as wd40,pb blaster I have used both and not had any ill effects from them on tools. I usually get old tools over new,even if I have to rebuild them. I have thrown away so many China made tools that now I just rebuild old ones. SO far I haven't had to throw away any of the old stuff.

 

[jocono]

I am going to watch this thread closely. I just picked this up over the weekend and would like to clean it up and maybe paint it. I took my pressure washer to it and blasted off a lot of the grim. It has a lot of rust on.
Thanks for posting. Hope you'll keep updating us.
Regards,
Joe

 

[Weps]

pb will soften some plastics and rubbers and can also remove certain finishes. this is more likely to happen with older equipment. with this press, i think you should be ok.

however, aside from an experimental platform where you try out various restoration and repair techniques, i don't think you'll get enough money out of that press to justify your time.

how much smoothing do you need to do on the table? you may be able to get away with sanding it. however, with out the right tools and abrasives, it will probably look more like a butchering job.

 

[ZRX61]

On the machined surface of the table & the base you can get them looking like new by attacking them with a DA sander. I use #120 #220 & #400.

 

[Packard V8]

Looks like a generic import DP. Suggest you don't put too much labor into polishing it up before you use it for a while. Drill some holes in steel, determine quality, accuracy and condition of the bearings, chuck and motor. Then, if it meets your needs and you want to keep it, do the shiny.

Over on http://owwm.org/viewforum.php?f=1 there is everything you ever wanted to know about restoring a DP and polishing columns. Just don't tell 'em you are working on an import.

jack vines

 

[justanengineer]

WD40, a green scotchbrite, and some kitchen towels should get it as shiny as you need it. To lubricate it for use once you are done cleaning, I like to use 30 wt non-detergent oil, the more the better. If you really want to clean up a drill table nicely (on higher end drills), and ever wish to use it for any kind of accurate work in steel, I have surface ground them before. Not an offer (no machine currently), just a suggestion.

 

[z28snksknr]

I am going to watch this thread closely. I just picked this up over the weekend and would like to clean it up and maybe paint it. I took my pressure washer to it and blasted off a lot of the grim. It has a lot of rust on.
Thanks for posting. Hope you'll keep updating us.
Regards,
Joe

Looks like a generic import DP. Suggest you don't put too much labor into polishing it up before you use it for a while. Drill some holes in steel, determine quality, accuracy and condition of the bearings, chuck and motor. Then, if it meets your needs and you want to keep it, do the shiny.

I was given an import DP a while ago that looks almost exactly like yours Jocono. Unfortunately, after using it for a while, I agree 100% with what Packard V8 says - they aren't really worth the effort to clean up. Mine has a slight "wobble" to the chuck and I can stop the rotation by grabbing the chuck with my bare hand. The vertical adjustment "gear strip" is made of aluminum and tends to bend and bow out from the DP shaft when making height adjustments. If it wasn't for free, it would have been gone by now.

 

[Lomotil]

I agree with the steel wool - used that on the pedestal on mine, came out nice. The sandpaper on the table is up to you, you might want to leave it slightly rough to grip whatever you're drilling into if you don't have it clamped down or in a vice.

I used some automotive body sandpaper to finish the table on my scroll saw, and I notice quite a difference when maneuvering the wood while cutting. If it were any slicker, I'd think it was coated in Teflon...

 

[jocono]

I was given an import DP a while ago that looks almost exactly like yours Jocono. Unfortunately, after using it for a while, I agree 100% with what Packard V8 says - they aren't really worth the effort to clean up. Mine has a slight "wobble" to the chuck and I can stop the rotation by grabbing the chuck with my bare hand. The vertical adjustment "gear strip" is made of aluminum and tends to bend and bow out from the DP shaft when making height adjustments. If it wasn't for free, it would have been gone by now.

I noticed the gear strip bending also. I have not drilled anything yet but I can't stop the chuck with my hand. Do not see any wobble so maybe it is straight.
I only have $10. in it. I hope it will do what I need, which is not much.
If it does not work, I'll let someone else fix it.
Thanks,
Joe

 

[countrytech]

I know this isn't a high end machine by any stretch, it's just another generic import. But, everything seems solid enough, doesn't seem to have any wobble or run-out and is in generally good condition.

I know from a time vs money standpoint I won't get rich, but this is more of a project for the sake of a project in my shop. I paid $25 for the DP so if I sell it for $50 I will be happy. Mostly I'm just trying to learn how to do stuff, and get my feet wet on projects that won't cost me so much if I screw them up.

As far as the table, I guess I don't need it super smooth, I didn't think about the traction value, I just wanted it to look "nicer" so it would bring a little better price.

I know that few on here will pay more for it because it looks shinier. But some people just want a nicer drill for the sake of having it for light tasks and don't have the desire for a beast of a machine like a walker-turner - instead of those of us who will take that "ancient vintage junk" because we understand it most often has a tougher quality materials and better build than new stuff.

pb will soften some plastics and rubbers and can also remove certain finishes. this is more likely to happen with older equipment. with this press, i think you should be ok.

however, aside from an experimental platform where you try out various restoration and repair techniques, i don't think you'll get enough money out of that press to justify your time.

how much smoothing do you need to do on the table? you may be able to get away with sanding it. however, with out the right tools and abrasives, it will probably look more like a butchering job.

 

[Weps]

from your questions and other posts, i suspected that was the case. personally, it's a great attitude to have. there really is no substitute for learning while actually doing these types of things.

the concern with the table would be if it is deeply pitted. sanding and grinding may not be the best option. it will only make the pits more obvious - which doesn't really help you. my experiences are the same with clean and shiny. it definitely adds to the value. there are several things you could experiment with in dealing with it; electrolysis, acid, sanding and polishing. it really depends on how deep you want to go.

since you mentioned walker-turner, i'll also suggest that you might take a good look at the rust on your imported press and compare it to what you see on the older tools.

I know from a time vs money standpoint I won't get rich, but this is more of a project for the sake of a project in my shop. I paid $25 for the DP so if I sell it for $50 I will be happy. Mostly I'm just trying to learn how to do stuff, and get my feet wet on projects that won't cost me so much if I screw them up.

As far as the table, I guess I don't need it super smooth, I didn't think about the traction value, I just wanted it to look "nicer" so it would bring a little better price.

I know that few on here will pay more for it because it looks shinier. But some people just want a nicer drill for the sake of having it for light tasks and don't have the desire for a beast of a machine like a walker-turner - instead of those of us who will take that "ancient vintage junk" because we understand it most often has a tougher quality materials and better build than new stuff.

 

[countrytech]

since you mentioned walker-turner, i'll also suggest that you might take a good look at the rust on your imported press and compare it to what you see on the older tools.

hmm, is it my imagination or does the newer and import stuff rust out quicker? even tho there seems to be more (real) metal on the older stuff. Looking at my W-T, it has very minimal surface rust a couple places, but nothing close to how bad the import was, and the W-T is good enough at this point that nothing will rust apart in my lifetime unless I treat it like **** and regularly spray it with water.... same is true for my lathe and some other tools.

The rust (if any) seems different, and much more muted... Is it a difference in care, or metals, or just a coincidence with my tools?

 

[Weps]

speaking of vintage machinery, if you want something else vintage to play around with, you could buy this:

http://york.craigslist.org/tls/2402620525.html

i think you could double or triple your money pretty easily. i know i'd give you $40.00.

 

[countrytech]

speaking of vintage machinery, if you want something else vintage to play around with, you could buy this:

http://york.craigslist.org/tls/2402620525.html

i think you could double or triple your money pretty easily. i know i'd give you $40.00.

trying to get me to clean your attic out huh?

You must have seen my other threads about $25 vintage tools....