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4 FN 27

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I see needing about 36"x8" piece of steel to cut these.

With a which is about 2 sqft of material, at about 15.4lbs for 3/16 material.

I pay about .50lbs for steel so the steel would cost about $8.50 with tax, shipping would be roughly 6-10 bucks with flat rate boxes, which I believe these all would fit in one box.

I know you need to make a profit, but my math is not aligning with yours what am I missing.

Where are you buying Stainless at $0.50 per pound? I want in on that.
 

mike13u

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I see needing about 36"x8" piece of steel to cut these.

With a which is about 2 sqft of material, at about 15.4lbs for 3/16 material.

I pay about .50lbs for steel so the steel would cost about $8.50 with tax, shipping would be roughly 6-10 bucks with flat rate boxes, which I believe these all would fit in one box.

I know you need to make a profit, but my math is not aligning with yours what am I missing.

Sorry about that. Typing on phone and missed dermal.

Happy you can get it done for him cheaper.
 

NUTTSGT

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While we may not agree on how to cut/fab/machine the parts or what the cost is, it's nice to see so many guys step up and offer their services. How many other forums out there are you going to find that ?

Hats off to all you guys.

:beer:
 

Kevin54

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I see some actual businesses are jumping in on this. I'm not a business. I'm just a retired Tool & Die Maker that has some equipment that likes to help people out where they don't have to pay a large amount for something simple. I may not be the quickest with a manual mill or my CNC mill as some others are, but I do turn out a top notch piece. Just like me, others out there don't have deep pockets either. Those are the ones I like to help out, and maybe someday they can help me out also.
 

4 FN 27

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The original post just said steel, I also the person I quoted indicated A36 steel.

Dang I had it in my head it was Stainless...

Revised numbers:

12 pcs @ 15.24 each

1000 pcs @ 3.57 each

Now I am heading down to the shop to build a CraniumfromSphincter removal tool so I can get my head out...
 

cwh

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If you're going the hole saw route, you definitely need (as other's have said) a better drill press than the off-the-shelf stuff from a big-box store.

I have a 17" Delta that would do the work - and if you're similarly equipped, here are the things you need to consider.

1) The table must be near to exactly perpendicular to the centerline of the chuck. You want the hole saw to make even contact all the way around the cutting arc. A little off to the left, right, front or back will cause the hole saw to grab and that will most likely snap off the pilot drill.

2) Put the table up as high as you can in relation to the cutter. Less extension on the quill will make the drill press more stable.

3) Run it as slow as you can, and leave the belt a little bit loose, so when the hole saw grabs (and it will), the belt will slip and lessen the torque shock to the setup.

4) Clamp the part to the table 6 ways from sunday. You do not want it to move even a little bit.

5) Use a cutting fluid of some sort. I've got some really nasty sulpherous (sp?) oil that I use when threading water pipe - that works well. You want something that won't boil off with heat.

I used the above techniques to cut arcs out of a piece of 3" x 1/4" wall square tube. Only broke one piloting bit.

It took three days less than forever...

In addition to this (which is all excellent advice):

If there is a way to position the part so that you don't have to use a pilot, do it. Pilots tend to be slightly off-center IME, and will cause the hole saw to wander.

This has been a great thread!
 

mike13u

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I see some actual businesses are jumping in on this. I'm not a business. I'm just a retired Tool & Die Maker that has some equipment that likes to help people out where they don't have to pay a large amount for something simple. I may not be the quickest with a manual mill or my CNC mill as some others are, but I do turn out a top notch piece. Just like me, others out there don't have deep pockets either. Those are the ones I like to help out, and maybe someday they can help me out also.

That's awesome and your a good man for doing that. Not trying to promote or gain business on here. We just have different value propositions about what our time, machines, and consumables are worth. Like you, I just want to help him get his parts.
 

zkling

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Kind of funny I think I did the OP a favor...all the hero's (I say this in jest) are under bidding me...

One of the biggest parts of business (as I am sure you know) is knowing your customers. The OP is quite simply too small for you/your capabilities are beyond what he needs.

Also curious why you quoted 304, unless you just wanted to get rid of a drop.

Business, nay, life in general is all about competition, you have better qualified customers than the OP, nothing wrong with that, just realize that others can and will come in under your quote WITH the same if not better quality and customer support. Do not kid yourself, everyone is replaceable, especially when shipping becomes a factor.

Dang I had it in my head it was Stainless...

Revised numbers:

12 pcs @ 15.24 each

1000 pcs @ 3.57 each

Now I am heading down to the shop to build a CraniumfromSphincter removal tool so I can get my head out...

Ok, now that is much more reasonable, especially considering your operation.
 
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zkling

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it's nice to see so many guys step up and offer their services. How many other forums out there are you going to find that ?

Hats off to all you guys.

:beer:

Quite a few actually. Be it visible on the open forum or not.
 

gahrajmahal

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I am making this post mandatory reading for my adult Ed blueprint reading class. We will have fun looking up all the various processes you all have referenced on YouTube
 

shortykorte

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Thanks for the suggestion badidea. Im not the best at cutting arcs with a grinder. The problem is I need to make 12 of them. Thanks Kevin, the only problem is i need a bunch of them, and would like to be able to make more. I do not have an acetylene torch or plasma cutter, or mill. Is a big *** hole saw out of the question?

Sounds like OP wants to build these himself but was looking for other DYI solutions besides a big *** hole saw. Larry's layout is seems like the best use of material. I will assume OP was looking for something like:

With a jigsaw and drill holes
With a hole saw, drill holes, cut off wheel
With my plasma cutter
With my mill
With my bandsaw.
Pay someone to cut them.

I would be interested in the OP providing more info.
 

bullnerd

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I apologize for my earlier comment. I looked up my receipt, I got 11 similar pcs at 60$, the 2$ ones were 1/8".

I am not affiliated with GK and would make no profit from it, just offering my opinion. But they are well known in the homebuilt buggy world. Guys order from them from all over the country because of their prices.

The wood pattern and plasma comment is probably the quickest method mentioned so far, But we have no idea of the tolerances the OP is looking for.
 
OP
J

Jbrates

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I gotta say i Did not expect nearly this much help. I should have been more clear in the first post. I wish I could pay someone with the tools to do this for me, better yet I wish i Had the tools to do it. I have an old walker turner 15" drill press which I was planning on using to make the arcs. I really appreciate all of you who offered your services, but as i am a small time furniture builder, it is not economical for me to pay someone to make them. I want them to be accurate, however I do not need insane precision. They just need to all look the same. I already have the steel, I believe it is just mild steel, bought it from a local steel supply. Nothing fancy, no stainless. I am going to give it a shot tonight or tomorrow. Will post pictures of what i end up with. One last question, can a hole saw be used to say cut with say 25 percent of the circle? What i mean is do I need to support the rest of the blade that is not in contact with the steel. I figured if it is not in contact, it would create lateral force on the quill, possibly straining the internal bearings. Am I correct? This forum is awesome. Thank you all
 

larry_g

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One last question, can a hole saw be used to say cut with say 25 percent of the circle? What i mean is do I need to support the rest of the blade that is not in contact with the steel. I figured if it is not in contact, it would create lateral force on the quill, possibly straining the internal bearings. Am I correct? This forum is awesome. Thank you all

You are correct in the assumption that 25% engagement will cause problems. That is why I laid out the process as I did above. You cut the 4" holes and then do the small strait cuts around to circle to remove the brackets.

lg
no neat sigline
 
OP
J

Jbrates

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Larry, I do not think I can do it this way. Reason being, the center for the circle is 1/2 inch away from the edge. If I butted them up the way you advised, I would end up with a thickness of 2 inches, instead of the desired 1.5 inches. Please tell me I am wrong, because that seems like the fastest way to do it.
 

larry_g

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We're both in error. When I first looked I read the 1 1/2" dimension as 1/2" So just adjust the center distance of the 4" holes to 5 1/2". Take my sketch and draft out to scale and you will see the system. If your working with a cad system, take your drawing and mirror it left to right and then bottom to top then repeat this as many times as necessary.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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bullnerd

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"One last question, can a hole saw be used to say cut with say 25 percent of the circle?"

Im going to disagree with Larry here. I don't see a problem, in fact it will take less torque to drive the saw. Being a woodworker your used to making quick fixtures right. Stop off the back/opposite corner so you can flip them with one fixture, and holesaw the corner off. Pilot the saw into your fixture with the drill bit. The stop can just be some ply or hardwood strips tacked down. Do it man!
 

racingtadpole

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"One last question, can a hole saw be used to say cut with say 25 percent of the circle?"

Im going to disagree with Larry here. I don't see a problem, in fact it will take less torque to drive the saw. Being a woodworker your used to making quick fixtures right. Stop off the back/opposite corner so you can flip them with one fixture, and holesaw the corner off. Pilot the saw into your fixture with the drill bit. The stop can just be some ply or hardwood strips tacked down. Do it man!

The pilot drill will also be trying to cut a 1/4 hole. It will almost certainly break. Either cut the corner off the plate so it pilots off the fixture or remove it.

Personally I would fixture as bullnerd describes and do it without the pilot.

If you fixture as Larry suggests drill a couple of holes just inside the radius for the chips to clear our through.
 

larry_g

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I'm going to post a short video of what MAY happen if you run a cutter that is not evenly loaded in a drill press that has a taper holding the chuck on.


Agreed that the vid is showing a milling cutter but it is the off center load that will unseat the taper. You may get away with Bull's way, and you may not. Even with a even load, a 4" cutter may unseat the taper.

lg
no neat sig line
 

racingtadpole

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Mmm.. Milling on a drill press where a radial load is applied to the rotating tool is somewhat different to using a holesaw where the load is largely axial. Its kind of a bit apples and oranges. Im curious where you see the off axis load coming from? From my perspective I just can't see it if the holesaw is allowed to cut rather than being forced through the work.

I'm assuming the material has already been dimensioned, which is why the OP was asking about cutting the quarters out, other wise for speed of production your layout would almost certainly be the way forward.
 
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kkroger

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Holesaws are used a LOT off center to notch tubing... with no pilot drill...
 

bullnerd

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"Either cut the corner off the plate so it pilots off the fixture or remove it."

Yeah, this was what I was thinking, but forgot to type it, good call.
 

zkling

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Holesaws are used a LOT off center to notch tubing... with no pilot drill...

Yes, but you need a jig that will handle high radial loads doing that unsupported in a drill press is a very bad idea BTDT.
 

4 FN 27

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Since nobody won the lottery last night there ought to be at least one winner today...Jbrates it is you today...

PM me a ship to address...

They are on the house...had some other things I need for the shop at home. So why not run them with my stuff.

Hope you don't mind they are .179 thk. I had a whole pile of 24 x 30 blanks of that.
 

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manwithtools

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Since nobody won the lottery last night there ought to be at least one winner today...Jbrates it is you today...

PM me a ship to address...

They are on the house...had some other things I need for the shop at home. So why not run them with my stuff.

Hope you don't mind they are .179 thk. I had a whole pile of 24 x 30 blanks of that.

That is a very nice gesture on your part. Just goes to show there are still good people in this world. :thumbup:
 

purplezr2

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Since nobody won the lottery last night there ought to be at least one winner today...Jbrates it is you today...

PM me a ship to address...

They are on the house...had some other things I need for the shop at home. So why not run them with my stuff.

Hope you don't mind they are .179 thk. I had a whole pile of 24 x 30 blanks of that.

Funny, I drew them up in cad, was planning to do the same thing.
 

zkling

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Since nobody won the lottery last night there ought to be at least one winner today...Jbrates it is you today...

Wow, that was beyond generous, especially given your operation. Good on you man. :beer:
 

skipnay

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After reading this thread I have figured out I have totally messed up this week. I bought a piece from ebay that most of you could've made me for probably half or even a quarter of the price I got quoted and decided to pay for already. I'm glad to see all of you in this thread stepping up.
 

bullnerd

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Shoot! You made left handed brackets, he needs right handed!

Since nobody won the lottery last night there ought to be at least one winner today...Jbrates it is you today...

PM me a ship to address...

They are on the house...had some other things I need for the shop at home. So why not run them with my stuff.

Hope you don't mind they are .179 thk. I had a whole pile of 24 x 30 blanks of that.
 

firworks

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That's really nice of you 4 FN 27. :thumbup:

However... I didn't see anyone ask OP what he was doing with the brackets? What if these are the final pieces of his slant drilling water supply poisoning machine or some sort of attack dirigible? :)
 

4 FN 27

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That's really nice of you 4 FN 27. :thumbup:

However... I didn't see anyone ask OP what he was doing with the brackets? What if these are the final pieces of his slant drilling water supply poisoning machine or some sort of attack dirigible? :)

Hope he sends it to Washinhton. I'll pay the shipping...lol...
 

PugetDude

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Since nobody won the lottery last night there ought to be at least one winner today...Jbrates it is you today...

PM me a ship to address...

They are on the house...had some other things I need for the shop at home. So why not run them with my stuff.

Hope you don't mind they are .179 thk. I had a whole pile of 24 x 30 blanks of that.

:thumbup:
 

larry_g

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Good on you 4 FN 27 . May your generosity be returned 10x.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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