Need some help with my attic storage and trusses.

[F3RR3T]

Im turning my garage into a woodshop. and even with my lumber rack in the shop i need more space. so i am turning to my attic as the answer.

This is a picture of the trusses currently. they have a 55psf rating

the attic opening is between one truss dimensions are 22" x 36"


What i plan to do to make them stronger. Everything in white is stuff i added (i also enlarged the attic access to 36"x72"

On a side note where the trusses go over a non load bearing wall they float about 1/4 inch above that wall. can i use shims to make the trusses contact the wall to help with support?

 

[Dead Skunk]

I don't see the point to the cross pieces that you've located part way up from the "floor" of the attic. They aren't going to add any appreciable strength to the truss and will just be in the way. The members they are attached to are in pure tension, so a cross memeber placed there will do little. Reinforcing the lower chord looks good. Is the 55 psf you quote for a floor load on the lower chord, or the roof load the truss will take?I did a similar thing to the trusses in my garage(lower chord only) to beef up the attic floor. I only added a 2x6 on one side of each truss. It made a significant difference, so I'd guess your solution would work. Shimming the wall will only help a little,and it depends a lot on where it supports the trusses.

 

[F3RR3T]

I don't see the point to the cross pieces that you've located part way up from the "floor" of the attic. They aren't going to add any appreciable strength to the truss and will just be in the way. The members they are attached to are in pure tension, so a cross memeber placed there will do little. Reinforcing the lower chord looks good. Is the 55 psf you quote for a floor load on the lower chord, or the roof load the truss will take?I did a similar thing to the trusses in my garage(lower chord only) to beef up the attic floor. I only added a 2x6 on one side of each truss. It made a significant difference, so I'd guess your solution would work.

The cross ties that are 1.5 up from the floor are for a second level of "light storage," i need a few different levels do to the fact im storing lumber.

the 55psf stamp is on the lower beam of the truss

 

[Pathfinder]

F3RR3T,

I have been a registered architect for thirty two years and can offer some guidance. Unfortunately the reinforcement you have proposed to the cut bottom chords adds nothing to the integrity of the trusses. The proper way to install the stair opening you desire is to add a 6 foot long structural ridge beam. The trusses at each end of the new ridge beam will need to be reinforced to carry the point load from the beam. Please seek some local professional help before cutting the trusses.

John Minton

 

[F3RR3T]

F3RR3T,

I have been a registered architect for thirty two years and can offer some guidance. Unfortunately the reinforcement you have proposed to the cut bottom chords adds nothing to the integrity of the trusses. The proper way to install the stair opening you desire is to add a 6 foot long structural ridge beam. The trusses at each end of the new ridge beam will need to be reinforced to carry the point load from the beam. Please seek some local professional help before cutting the trusses.

John Minton

ill ask a local contractor here. As far as the opening goes. everything i found online about cutting attic access's there method looks just like mine "double headers to re-distribute the load.

ill look into it.

 

[F3RR3T]

also will be decking with 3/4 ply

 

[little d]

F3RR3T, Pathfinder is right, counting the gable as #1 going left to right, truss #4 and 7, and the boards running between them are carring the weight. the boards you are sandwitching trusses # 5 and 6 arnt realy doing anything. if i'm reading pathfinders post right, what he is proposing is what i call a strong back. a 2 by 8 or 10 running from truss # 3 to 8, on both sides of your stairs would stiffin up the atic floor, shop ceiling a bunch.and yes, if the trusses arnt touching a wall below them, shimming to that wall will help cary the load also.