Need some ratchet advice

[Wagz3]

Hi everyone,

I'm new here and have spent the last two day scouring every post I could find, seriously two days.

I'm buying two ratchets, 1/4" and 3/8". I know you will now ask what I'll be using them for. I don't know, general DIY stuff. I'm not a mechanic but I do basic stuff with my car, nothing serious. It will be only for general use.

I've decided on the SO dual 80 or the Nepro 90. Their are more reasonable priced ratchets that will be way more than adequate for my weekend warrior/amateur status but am just having this "cry once" attitude lately. I've done quite a few projects since I've been stuck home from the Covid dilemma and my tools were just junk and infuriating. I'm never going in HF again I swear. People have talked well about their composite and pro line ratchets here, but I just can't deal with them again, ever.

I've considered SK, Proto, Matco, GW and most others and decided on the ones mentioned above.

I'm going with standard non -flex heads even after reading how much people love them. I may get the 1/4" in flex head though. I've read about all the get both and multiple wrenches so many posters have but that's their profession and passion in most cases. I just won't have the need for all the variety the few times a month I use them.

So, question after all that babbling: The standard 1/4" and 3/8" are around 5" and 7ish" long respectively. I've read a lot about people liking the longer length ratchets which are generally 7" and 10ish"

If you were going to buy a 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet that would be your only 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet would you get standard or the long version?

Thanks for any input. I know it's a personal preference thing and their all probably endless answers.

 

[kapster]

Welcome to the forum! I have tried several brands and always come back to the Snap on Dual 80. Have them in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. I know you said no flex but, I use the T72 quite often as well as a Thlf72 long flex. 3/8 I use a standard length often(not snap on, yet) but more frequently use a Flf80 long flex. A 3/8 locking flex could be a nice all in one ratchet, I'm currently looking to add one or a long non flex.

No experience with nepros but they look awesome. They dont interest me with Snap on readily available. The Mac Axis locking flex looks pretty awesome, haven't tried one yet and I'm reluctant to try something else after using dual 80.

Sent from my SM-T720 using Tapatalk

 

[sparky 1971]

If I were to have one of each, they would be standard length. There may come a time when there isn't enough room for a long handled ratchet to turn. When the day comes that the bolt/nut you are trying to turn is too tight and you slip a pipe over the handle for leverage, you can go buy the longer handles.

 

[HomeTheaterMan]

Snap On Dual 80 in standard length would be my choice. I just don't think you can beat it. There are situations where a long handle is nice, but I prefer the shorter handle the majority of the time, so if I was only going to have one, that would be it.

That said, I do love my Snap On flex head dual 80. I know that's not what you want, I'm just throwing out there how much I love it.

 

[Lucid Moments]

Check out the tool truck equivalents thread. Lots of good information in there about equal quality tools without a warranty for half the price. My go to 1/4" drive ratchet is a Bahco one that was suggested by that thread as the same as a Snap On and it is, at half the price.

 

[FordFanatic]

I concur with the Snap-on standard length suggestions above as well. Then fill in later with shorter or longer versions as you build your tool holdings.

For me Snap-on are well worth the money and an investment that will last a lifetime and can be passed on to future generations.

Cheers,
Tim

 

[pizza]

hi Wagz3

take it from a guy who owns neither (yet)...

you've identified two of the best ratchets. well done. the hard part's over.

since it sounds like you're having trouble deciding, i'd just get one of each. they're both "end game" ratchets with nothing to really upgrade to. cry once, indeed.
it's fun to compare tool brands, and by having them in hand, it can help inform future purchases if you find that you need more variety.

get a 3/8" nepros and a 1/4" SO. i think nepros is the sexier ratchet, so that's why i suggest it in 3/8".

also, i know you said that you don't want flex heads, but i think there's no disadvantage to having it in flex, especially for just a few times a month. and sometimes you need flex head. since you said that you don't want a million ratchets as it's not your profession or passion, why not buy flex head if it might save you from buying another tool down the line?

if i've convinced you to get flex head, then my vote is again nepros here. the flex head design of nepros is slick. it's spring loaded with no detents. it has good friction throughout its range of motion without flopping around. watch this:

the only nice ratchets i own so far are by ko-ken, which is another japanese company. i have two from their higher-end Z-EAL line:

http://i.imgur.com/f9VqzbT.jpg

3726Z–280 zeal 3/8" ratchet, flex head, long 280mm
2726Z–160 zeal 1/4" ratchet, flex head, long 160mm

these are only 36 tooth ratchets fyi, but that's good enough for my needs for now. and aside from that "issue", they are very nice imo.

i bought them because i'm on a ko-ken kick and just got z-eal socket sets in 1/4" (standard and deep), 3/8" (standard and deep), and 1/2" (standard). if you are in the market for sockets, i'd take a hard look at these. i'd say they're end game sockets. everything about them is super nice, and they're designed to tighter tolerances than normal for a good, positive fit and increased contact area with the fastener. this leads to less fastener damage. you can read a bit here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277956

here's the catalog for the koken zeal series if you're bored: http://www.koken-tool.co.jp/en/panflets/KOKEN201810EN.pdf

here's a nice (if long winded) video:

i also have a manual impact driver from koken, and it's amazing: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8234718#post8234718

eventually i'll buy some nepros ratchets. i don't really have a burning desire for the snap ons.

 

[Skin]

My most used (general use) are 12" long 3/8 and 6-8" long 1/4. The standard lengths of 7 and 4 inches don't really give you any comfortable leverage unless the biggest thing you're working on is a lawn mower. Trying to remove caliper bracket bolts, or even various oil drain plugs, with a 7" ratchet isnt going to be much fun.

 

[MJK]

My favorite 3/8, by far, is a SO FLF80.
1/4 is an SK 40970, but the TRF72 is close.

 

[ryanx0r]

I have both SnapOn and Nepros. The Nepros ratchets might be the nicest ratchets I've ever held. Extremely high quality and attention to detail. I do love all of my SnapOn ratchets as well though and they are a bit easier to warranty.

I would go with the longer length ratchets over standard if you are only getting one of each size.

 

[Tallpilot]

Standard length goes back a long way to less sophisticated metallurgy and less cramped engine bays. I find them almost comically short now. I agree with Skin above. My most used are a FHX80 and a THLX72. 12" and 8.25"

I've never handled a Nepros but if you want one I would get it in 1/4" and go with Snappy in 3/8".

 

[mhejl]

F80 and TL72. Both are much easier to "quick ratchet" than longer 3/8s. T72 is too short, IMHO.

I have Nepros, SK LPs, Carlyle, and Taiwanese too. The SKs are my least used and most inconsistent in quality; won't buy more. The Nepros are amazing but they're not sealed like the SO and I personally don't like QR ratchets. The Nepros flex mechanism is really unique with a sprung nylon tensioner.

All that said, my go-to are SO thnf/fhnf rotos with hard handles, even the compact 3/8 roto in a 1/4" body. Break the nut/bolt loose and spin it out like a screwdriver. I find the short 1/4 Nepros flex handy, too.

Made me go count: 16 SOs, 4 Nepros, 3 Carlyle (SO doesn't make a 1/2 roto!), 2 SKs. The others are sitting in a junk box - the reverse lever works the "wrong" way.

 

[sk farmer]

i won't say you are getting bad info here. everyone has an opinion and they have their right to it.

i do get some humor from the buy once cry once that some use to justify their purpose. i have probably 100 different ratchets. the ones i use the least probably cost me the most, a red hard handle dual 80 in 3/8 and a cornwell 72 tooth long handle. why? i don't know, i just don't really like them.

price only tells you one thing, what something cost. it has nothing to do with whether you will like it, whether it is the right tool for the job or even if it will do it the best.

what do i like? well i have proto big dawgs. rhft's in different brands. sk ratchets in styles and sizes that many have never seen. cornwell course and fine tooth, single pawl apex style in matco, gearwrench, and armstrong with 60 and 88 clicks. apex dual pawl in 100 and 120 clicks. triangle in 144. vintage bonney, cornwell, husky and a slew of brands too numerous to mention. yup even harbor freight and icon

in truth, they all make me happy and they all have a place. standard, long, extra long, flex, locking flex, stubby, compact, roto, palm, indexing etc.

the op can and will do what he wants and i don't care what it is but he will be far better served with several different ratchets than 1 premium ratchet. there are so many times that just a slightly different ratchet makes a job so much easier.

my favorites? any of the sk compact 3/8 in 1/4. the 1/4 and 3/8 armstrong locking flex. any of the single pawl apex. 3/8 big dawg hard handle and big dawg long hard handle 1/2. i always have a soft spot for an sk classic round head (the old ones with real knurling) but the one ratchet i probably grab the most? a compact 3/8 titan roto with 72 clicks. i wouldn't trade any of them for a comparable dual 80.

 

[SeisMec]

... everyone has an opinion and they have their right to it. ...
...
... price only tells you one thing, what something cost. it has nothing to do with whether you will like it, whether it is the right tool for the job ...

...

the op can and will do what he wants ... but he will be far better served with several different ratchets than 1 premium ratchet. there are so many times that just a slightly different ratchet makes a job so much easier.

... my favorites? ... (the old ones with real knurling) but the one ratchet i probably grab the most? a compact 3/8 titan roto with 72 clicks.

Already added emphasis, but it such a good point - let me repeat - OP will be "far better served with several different ratchets than 1 premium ratchet!!!"

My most used ratchets are all roto heads (AKA swivel heads). If I could only have one style ratchet, it would be a roto head.

IMHO real knurling means it was cut - NOT ROLL STAMPED.

 

[M635_Guy]

Already added emphasis, but it such a good point - let me repeat - OP will be "far better served with several different ratchets than 1 premium ratchet!!!"

My most used ratchets are all roto heads (AKA swivel heads). If I could only have one style ratchet, it would be a roto head.

IMHO real knurling means it was cut - NOT ROLL STAMPED.

I heartily agree with you about roto/swivels. I love mine, though so far the 1/4" get far more work than the 3/8" (I reach for the 1/4" roto first), and I haven't reached for the 1/2" (I suspected that might be the case, so I got the Pittsburg Pro and figured I'd upgrade if I used it a lot).

I go to Japan once or twice a year - will see if I can swing by and check out the Nepro stuff. For general use the combination of the size, cost and general excellence of premium Japanese tools, I'd probably go with Nepro.

The opinions on the F80 vs. FL80 here are pulling me to add an FL80 to my drawer to go along with the F80... lol

 

[SeisMec]

I haven't reached for the 1/2" (I suspected that might be the case, so I got the Pittsburg Pro and figured I'd upgrade if I used it a lot).

I haven't seen a truely long handle 1/2" drive roto head. For me it's about nose to nose - 1/2 roto vs long handle 1/2. Through in 18v 1/2" impact and all 3 see about equal use.

 

[M635_Guy]

I haven't seen a truely long handle 1/2" drive roto head. For me it's about nose to nose - 1/2 roto vs long handle 1/2. Through in 18v 1/2" impact and all 3 see about equal use.

My Pittsburgh Pro 1/2" swivel is almost exactly 12" long. The Icon 1/2" (which I don't own) is a hair over 13". (The 3/8" Icon swivel is just under 10.5").

I'm not sure what length defines a long handle - the FL80 is about 10.3"

 

[sk farmer]

Already added emphasis, but it such a good point - let me repeat - OP will be "far better served with several different ratchets than 1 premium ratchet!!!"

My most used ratchets are all roto heads (AKA swivel heads). If I could only have one style ratchet, it would be a roto head.

IMHO real knurling means it was cut - NOT ROLL STAMPED.

again, this a tool forum and to each his own, the op is new to this forum and describes himself as not really knowing for sure what he will use it on but knows for sure he needs a snap-on or nepros.

of any piece of advice given here the buy once cry once, buy snap-on is one of the worst and that is coming from someone who owns a fair amount of snap-on. not hundreds of pieces but not 3 or 4 either.

just as an example. there are several gearwrench sets that include flex heads, rotos and multiple sizes that cost about the same or less than one snap-on or nepros ratchet. they would add lots of capability for different jobs not to mention the ability to have a different size or type of socket on each as is often needed on a project.

the other bad advice is tooth count. 60, 72, 80, 84 are fine. not that much difference in performance. back drag and head size can be far larger issues. 100, 120 or 144 clicks are not worth the extra cost or effort. imho of course.

 

[Rickster]

Standard length 1/4dr and the long 3/8dr.

 

[superautobacs]

Standard length 1/4dr and the long 3/8dr.

I didn't read the thread comments, but saw Rickster's post stand out because that was precisely what I wanted to suggest. So,

 

[M635_Guy]

again, this a tool forum and to each his own, the op is new to this forum and describes himself as not really knowing for sure what he will use it on but knows for sure he needs a snap-on or nepros.

of any piece of advice given here the buy once cry once, buy snap-on is one of the worst and that is coming from someone who owns a fair amount of snap-on. not hundreds of pieces but not 3 or 4 either.

just as an example. there are several gearwrench sets that include flex heads, rotos and multiple sizes that cost about the same or less than one snap-on or nepros ratchet. they would add lots of capability for different jobs not to mention the ability to have a different size or type of socket on each as is often needed on a project.

the other bad advice is tooth count. 60, 72, 80, 84 are fine. not that much difference in performance. back drag and head size can be far larger issues. 100, 120 or 144 clicks are not worth the extra cost or effort. imho of course.

The OP came in saying he'd decided on one of the two brands vs. the (many) others out there, so it's not fair to smack anyone here in the thread on recommending up on the ratchet. I agree that there are lots of great options under $50 for a ratchet, and much past 80-90 teeth there are more hazards than benefits, but whatever. For me, I'd tell a DIY'er to spend up a bit on ratchets and sockets (GearWrench, etc. vs. the cheapo-stuff) because the jump is large. How much better are my Snap On ratchets vs. my Icon and Carlyle ratchets? I dunno...

. I doubt I tax the limits of them, but damn they feel great in my hand, and are the last thing that will be a problem. Snap On stuff will also hold their value better than just about any other tool brand.

Getting a solid 72-tooth-or-so ratchet is the right thing for most folks, but if the money isn't a big thing it's hard to call it a mistake. Over the last couple years I've upgraded pretty much all of my tools (and gained more in the process), and I'm pretty happy that I did.

 

[SeisMec]

I'm not sure what length defines a long handle

You're right "truely long handle" is excessivel vague - my bad.

Should have written - haven't seen a 1/2" drive roto head that is 15" to 18" long.

 

[Tallpilot]

My Pittsburgh Pro 1/2" swivel is almost exactly 12" long. The Icon 1/2" (which I don't own) is a hair over 13". (The 3/8" Icon swivel is just under 10.5").

I'm not sure what length defines a long handle - the FL80 is about 10.3"

We've had this discussion in a few threads lately. In the original paradigm of socket based tools, the ratchet was fairly short because it was expected the user would use a breaker bar for strength and leverage to break torque on the fastener then switch to a ratchet for speed. Modern designs have increased in strength to the point that usually isn't necessary. But that is why the old standard length ratchet is fairly short. The handle isn't for torque at all just speed.

In today's world sometimes length is helpful for torque and sometimes for reach. A nice long handle can reach some bellhousing bolts and cut the time of a clutch job in half. There is no clearance issue getting to a drain plug but the last gorilla that worked on it didn't feel like replacing the crush washer so cranked it to German spec. Now a 7" 3/8 ratchet needs a cheater pipe but a 12-15" handle zips it right off and we're on the next job.

I'd say we're pretty much at the point where double the old standard lengths is a far better 'normal.' We are also using one drive size lower than the old days. I'd submit that 1/2" is the new 3/4 and needs much longer handles.

Tekton (just to use a non tool truck example) puts their 3/8 ratchet at 240 ft/lbs. That will handle most axle nuts and even some crank bolts. The 1/2 is 560 ft/lbs. That sounds to me like it needs a 2' handle. But there are still tons of 10" handles on 1/2" drive ratchets. For the love of God, why? If it because there is no room to swing a long handle just use a 3/8.

 

[Coach James]

Welcome to the forum Wagz. I'm curious, what did you dislike about the HF ratchets?

Coach

 

[M635_Guy]

We've had this discussion in a few threads lately. In the original paradigm of socket based tools, the ratchet was fairly short because it was expected the user would use a breaker bar for strength and leverage to break torque on the fastener then switch to a ratchet for speed. Modern designs have increased in strength to the point that usually isn't necessary. But that is why the old standard length ratchet is fairly short. The handle isn't for torque at all just speed.

In today's world sometimes length is helpful for torque and sometimes for reach. A nice long handle can reach some bellhousing bolts and cut the time of a clutch job in half. There is no clearance issue getting to a drain plug but the last gorilla that worked on it didn't feel like replacing the crush washer so cranked it to German spec. Now a 7" 3/8 ratchet needs a cheater pipe but a 12-15" handle zips it right off and we're on the next job.

I'd say we're pretty much at the point where double the old standard lengths is a far better 'normal.' We are also using one drive size lower than the old days. I'd submit that 1/2" is the new 3/4 and needs much longer handles.

Tekton (just to use a non tool truck example) puts their 3/8 ratchet at 240 ft/lbs. That will handle most axle nuts and even some crank bolts. The 1/2 is 560 ft/lbs. That sounds to me like it needs a 2' handle. But there are still tons of 10" handles on 1/2" drive ratchets. For the love of God, why? If it because there is no room to swing a long handle just use a 3/8.

It's a bit of a crazy world these days - engineering/design driven mainly by a marketing race that generally appeals to something completely abstract for most people who own the product (tools, SUV/trucks, screen resolution on computers and phones, all kinds of stuff).

I have a weird job - I'm not an engineer but work with them constantly, and it makes me look at specs in a non-typical way - more like an engineer, but with a healthy dose of non-engineer-DIY-guy mixed in. So when I see all these TESTED TO FAILURE videos on YouTube it really puzzles me. I saw the Tekton tested, and it went to 240+ ft/lb. I was supposed to be impressed, but mainly I thought "Why the hell were they using the wrong tool?"

Objectively I value the ratings/spec as a way to stratify the engineering, design, and build of the product, but only in an emergency would I ever see myself abusing a tool that way. Then there's things like the aforementioned tooth-race. Are 144 teeth meaningfully better in a ratchet? It seems like there isn't just the risk of a diminishing return but also making the product worse for the sake of spec-marketing. It's not a unique concern by any stretch. That's one of the reasons my brain tends to deep-dive on stuff like this so I can educate myself enough to know the wheat from the chaff.

I do more stuff than a lot of people (in the general world, not so much the crew in a tool forum) in terms of DIY stuff around the house and on our cars. Do I need a Snap On ratchet? Definitely not. Until somewhat recently I did all of my work on cars/etc. with some seriously crappy 36-tooth Husky ratchets and the accompanying also-crappy sockets, a HF breaker-bar from their early not-so-great days, some decent-but-not great Craftsman C3 impacts/screwdrivers, etc. Now I have a damn decent set of tools. I like them, I know I can rely on them and the feel/work better, but they're not really making me better at anything (though they do make me faster). If you ask me if I wish I'd had them 10 years ago the answer is still "hell yes!"

That's a genuinely long post - apologies for the rant

 

[Jack84]

Standard length 1/4dr and the long 3/8dr.

Both ratchets standard length and a 3/8 drive breaker bar. Just my 0.02.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Standard length 1/4dr and the long 3/8dr.

Agreed, FLL80, and a standard 1/4. An FLL80 was my.first truck ratchet, and I love it.



If you want more options, get a matco flex head in 3/8 drive, gear wrench makes a very nice 8 inch 1/4 as well. GW just has a mediocre locking flex, the lever feels crummy. The non locking flex is decent though. I much prefer the GW 84 over the 120xp. It's very close to the matco feel.

 

[sk farmer]

The OP came in saying he'd decided on one of the two brands vs. the (many) others out there, so it's not fair to smack anyone here in the thread on recommending up on the ratchet. I agree that there are lots of great options under $50 for a ratchet, and much past 80-90 teeth there are more hazards than benefits, but whatever. For me, I'd tell a DIY'er to spend up a bit on ratchets and sockets (GearWrench, etc. vs. the cheapo-stuff) because the jump is large. How much better are my Snap On ratchets vs. my Icon and Carlyle ratchets? I dunno...

. I doubt I tax the limits of them, but damn they feel great in my hand, and are the last thing that will be a problem. Snap On stuff will also hold their value better than just about any other tool brand.

Getting a solid 72-tooth-or-so ratchet is the right thing for most folks, but if the money isn't a big thing it's hard to call it a mistake. Over the last couple years I've upgraded pretty much all of my tools (and gained more in the process), and I'm pretty happy that I did.

i didn't mean to smack on anyone. all of my posts have in some place said that everyone can have an opinion and it is their right. the op even said by once cry once. a term he probably saw if he scoured through multiple topics as he said.

if anything i questioned the fact that he didn't have any real specific jobs or needs other than he wanted a snap-on or nepros. if you want a high dollar ratchet it would be a good idea to have a specific want or need in place to make a good decision. if the op wants to buy a snap-on ratchet by all means do it but don't pop 100+ dollars on a short when he needs a long handle. a flex when he needs a roto or a chrome handle when he needs a handled ratchet.

if you don't know what you need you are better off adding capability with multiple styles to figure out what you like and need. until he figures that out all any of us can do is guess as to what may be the right ratchet for him.

it would be a real pisser for the guy to drop his hard earned cash on the wrong ratchet just because he wants a snap-on or nepros.

 

[bonneyman]

i didn't mean to smack on anyone. all of my posts have in some place said that everyone can have an opinion and it is their right. the op even said by once cry once. a term he probably saw if he scoured through multiple topics as he said.

if anything i questioned the fact that he didn't have any real specific jobs or needs other than he wanted a snap-on or nepros. if you want a high dollar ratchet it would be a good idea to have a specific want or need in place to make a good decision. if the op wants to buy a snap-on ratchet by all means do it but don't pop 100+ dollars on a short when he needs a long handle. a flex when he needs a roto or a chrome handle when he needs a handled ratchet.

if you don't know what you need you are better off adding capability with multiple styles to figure out what you like and need. until he figures that out all any of us can do is guess as to what may be the right ratchet for him.

it would be a real pisser for the guy to drop his hard earned cash on the wrong ratchet just because he wants a snap-on or nepros.

I gotta agree with the farmer here.

Ratchets are a tool one has to "grow" into, IMHO. No one style or brand is gonna work well in every situation. If one has their preference then by all means get it, but remain open and flexible to change as your skills and knowledge grow.
I started out with S-K roundheads, but have learned to be able to change as situations demand. I'm using brands now that I wouldn't have even looked at when I started as a young lad. I've got some old Herbrand pearheads and Williams roundheads that have become almost go-to's. And both are OLD designs. I never really got into the super fine tooth styles, but I will say I like the S-K TUFF 1's.

 

[Noworries]

Sooo...I decided I wanted a flex head ratchet and since I have absolutely no intention of spending 100 bucks for it I went to youtube and watched videos... long story short, i I paid 22 bucks for a pittsburgh. It was the weakest one tested between SnapOn, MAC, Proto and pittsburgh but it broke at over 400ft/lbs Isnt that why they make breaker bars??

 

[M635_Guy]

i didn't mean to smack on anyone. all of my posts have in some place said that everyone can have an opinion and it is their right. the op even said by once cry once. a term he probably saw if he scoured through multiple topics as he said.

if anything i questioned the fact that he didn't have any real specific jobs or needs other than he wanted a snap-on or nepros. if you want a high dollar ratchet it would be a good idea to have a specific want or need in place to make a good decision. if the op wants to buy a snap-on ratchet by all means do it but don't pop 100+ dollars on a short when he needs a long handle. a flex when he needs a roto or a chrome handle when he needs a handled ratchet.

if you don't know what you need you are better off adding capability with multiple styles to figure out what you like and need. until he figures that out all any of us can do is guess as to what may be the right ratchet for him.

it would be a real pisser for the guy to drop his hard earned cash on the wrong ratchet just because he wants a snap-on or nepros.

Fair. That said, a 3/8" ratchet is generally-useful it's hard to go wrong with, and fixing the lack of diversity with good-quality GW/etc. is easy enough if/when the task(s) demand.

In a way, I'm glad I had crappy ones first. It gives me an appreciation for what I have now, and some idea for the difference between my Carlyle and the more-recent Snap On stuff I own. The difference between a really nice $25 84-tooth GearWrench 81211F (8") or 81264 (11") and a used (~$80) or new (~$110-ebay/$118/$128) F80/FL80 is a few pizzas, and will hold value nicely.

In the pantheon of Snap On, the ratchets are easier to defend in terms of price than just about anything else they make vs. the decent or good alternatives.

(wasn't intending to take swipes at you btw)

 

[richfinn]

I've got a few 3/8 ratchets including an expensive Snap On dual 80 flex head

In my work van I have the Bahco 7750 which is fixed head and almost a soft grip S/O dual 80 for 1/3 the cost (In English money at least)!!!!

My 3/8 Mac tools Spinflex also lives in my van and is still my favourite ratchet (it's not fine tooth but I don't care)

Dont spend money on trophy tools, unless you intend to use it everyday until it wears out, there are loads of good alternatives

 

[Tallpilot]

...

I have a weird job - I'm not an engineer but work with them constantly, and it makes me look at specs in a non-typical way - more like an engineer, but with a healthy dose of non-engineer-DIY-guy mixed in. So when I see all these TESTED TO FAILURE videos on YouTube it really puzzles me. I saw the Tekton tested, and it went to 240+ ft/lb. I was supposed to be impressed, but mainly I thought "Why the hell were they using the wrong tool?"

Objectively I value the ratings/spec as a way to stratify the engineering, design, and build of the product, but only in an emergency would I ever see myself abusing a tool that way. Then there's things like the aforementioned tooth-race. Are 144 teeth meaningfully better in a ratchet? It seems like there isn't just the risk of a diminishing return but also making the product worse for the sake of spec-marketing. It's not a unique concern by any stretch. That's one of the reasons my brain tends to deep-dive on stuff like this so I can educate myself enough to know the wheat from the chaff.
...

I agree. I think these YouTube strength tests are a waste of good tools. It also encourages manufactures to 'spec war' their way into optimizing the design for the wrong parameters.

i didn't mean to smack on anyone. all of my posts have in some place said that everyone can have an opinion and it is their right. the op even said by once cry once. a term he probably saw if he scoured through multiple topics as he said.
...

it would be a real pisser for the guy to drop his hard earned cash on the wrong ratchet just because he wants a snap-on or nepros.

Your original advice was absolutely correct. Anybody that has turned a wrench more than a few times either for money or 'fun' knows that there simply isn't one tool for every job. The OP wants a high dollar pro ratchet; I support that. I don't know anything about his finances; hopefully he isn't wasting his kids' lunch money but isn't my business.

It's curious that about 80% of this board will agree with the statement that Snap-on ratchets are high quality. The other 20% is very strong in their opinion that better options exist.

I think dual 80 is the current best in the world in 1/2" drive. It's damn good but not perfect in 3/8". In 1/4" it's just meh but I haven't yet found anything demonstrably better; which is a shame since the bar really isn't that high. It especially irritates me because I have 1/2 and 3/8 TechAngles and would love a phenomenal 1/4 electronic torque wrench regardless of cost but I don't know of one. Before anybody suggests one please note that anything less that 60 teeth is out of the running.

Fair. That said, a 3/8" ratchet is generally-useful it's hard to go wrong with, and fixing the lack of diversity with good-quality GW/etc. is easy enough if/when the task(s) demand.

In a way, I'm glad I had crappy ones first. It gives me an appreciation for what I have now, and some idea for the difference between my Carlyle and the more-recent Snap On stuff I own. The difference between a really nice $25 84-tooth GearWrench 81211F (8") or 81264 (11") and a used (~$80) or new (~$110-ebay/$118/$128) F80/FL80 is a few pizzas, and will hold value nicely.

In the pantheon of Snap On, the ratchets are easier to defend in terms of price than just about anything else they make vs. the decent or good alternatives.

(wasn't intending to take swipes at you btw)

I think that's where this guy is at. He's tried some cheap stuff and just wants one good ratchet. He specifically asked for opinions about 2 brands and length plus flex vs fixed head. That's the main question we needed to answer.

 

[Wamsutta]

My favorite 3/8, by far, is a SO FLF80.

I have one of those.

 

[setfocus]

I've got all the standard snap-on ratchets, T72 F80 S80. I have no experience with Nepro ratchets

The S80 is hardly ever used, 10" is just too short for a 1/2 drive but I love my SX80B

I really only use the T72 for really small stuff like installing zerk fittings, working by feel in a blind spot, or dash work (don't do much of that). My snap-on THNF72 7" swivel head is my "go to" for 1/4 drive.

My F80 gets the most use of the three but still not my "go to", I use my matco 88 12" locking flex more. Wish I had a FX80A but that would be a redundant tool I don't really need

As an auto tech, I feel like the long flex/swivel benefits out weight the draw backs. If the long handle 3/8 is too long, most of the time you can drop down a drive size and use the shorter 1/4 drive ratchet instead. With the flex, you can also "flex" it at a 90 and use it like a speeder

 

[ajchien]

I wouldn’t stress the decision. IMHO - ratchets, wrenches etc, are only as good as 1) access 2) leverage 3) speed. Two ratchets are not going to handle every situation.

Just buy one of the lengths in 1/4 and 3/8 drive now. If you run into the situation in the future where you say to yourself, “geez, that Job could have been easier if I had more leverage”, then buy the longer handle, or go up to 1/2”. When you run into a situation where you say to yourself “I could be faster, or things could have more swing arc if it were smaller”, then buy a smaller handle.

Over time, you’ll figure out your own favorites. My personal favorites are 1/4 standard, 3/8 stubby, 3/8 long, and 1/2 breaker bar. But then, I usually choose an electric impact or electric ratchet first if possible.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I own probably 15 Dual 80's in various drive sizes, lengths, and flex. To compliment those I own Snap On roto ratchets in 3/8" and 1/4". I also own a complete set of the locking Armstrong (Matco) 88's. On top of that I have some Carlyle standard and roto ratchets and Pittsburgh Pro flex heads. I like them all and would recommend any of them. The only ratchets that I've owned that I ended up dumping were Craftsman flat panels and a set of SK round heads.

With that said, if I were to outfit another spare tool box I'd probably go with Tekton's ratchets.

 

[Tallpilot]

I've got all the standard snap-on ratchets, T72 F80 S80. I have no experience with Nepro ratchets

The S80 is hardly ever used, 10" is just too short for a 1/2 drive but I love my SX80B

I really only use the T72 for really small stuff like installing zerk fittings, working by feel in a blind spot, or dash work (don't do much of that). My snap-on THNF72 7" swivel head is my "go to" for 1/4 drive.

My F80 gets the most use of the three but still not my "go to", I use my matco 88 12" locking flex more. Wish I had a FX80A but that would be a redundant tool I don't really need

As an auto tech, I feel like the long flex/swivel benefits out weight the draw backs. If the long handle 3/8 is too long, most of the time you can drop down a drive size and use the shorter 1/4 drive ratchet instead. With the flex, you can also "flex" it at a 90 and use it like a speeder

I feel the same way. My SX80B is my favorite ratchet by a long shot (also most expensive) but hardly the most used. My FX80A is in my hand the most. I have a Matco 88 long locking flex 1/4" since Snap-on doesn't make one.

 

[Robbie B]

Hi everyone,

I'm new here and have spent the last two day scouring every post I could find, seriously two days.

I'm buying two ratchets, 1/4" and 3/8". I know you will now ask what I'll be using them for. I don't know, general DIY stuff. I'm not a mechanic but I do basic stuff with my car, nothing serious. It will be only for general use.

I've decided on the SO dual 80 or the Nepro 90. Their are more reasonable priced ratchets that will be way more than adequate for my weekend warrior/amateur status but am just having this "cry once" attitude lately. I've done quite a few projects since I've been stuck home from the Covid dilemma and my tools were just junk and infuriating. I'm never going in HF again I swear. People have talked well about their composite and pro line ratchets here, but I just can't deal with them again, ever.

I've considered SK, Proto, Matco, GW and most others and decided on the ones mentioned above.

I'm going with standard non -flex heads even after reading how much people love them. I may get the 1/4" in flex head though. I've read about all the get both and multiple wrenches so many posters have but that's their profession and passion in most cases. I just won't have the need for all the variety the few times a month I use them.

So, question after all that babbling: The standard 1/4" and 3/8" are around 5" and 7ish" long respectively. I've read a lot about people liking the longer length ratchets which are generally 7" and 10ish"

If you were going to buy a 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet that would be your only 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet would you get standard or the long version?

Thanks for any input. I know it's a personal preference thing and their all probably endless answers.

Bless your heart. I asked for opinions on some wrenches a few weeks back and it turned into a **** show.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wagz3]

Thanks everyone,

Everyone's post are very relevant and on point. For some background, I grew up with a dad who never hired anyone and we were his work crew. We had some property with some acres and every weekend was work instead of instead of enjoying the country. I loved it, I'm not complaining.

My dad did OK, engineer for Ford, so you think he'd know the value of quality tools-he did not. He was pretty cheap and bought cheap tools. So I grew up using **** tools and was so envious when I'd go to a friends house and use their dads tools that fit, functioned so well. Like a different world.

HF came around and he was like a crackhead. Bags and bags of the stuff would come home. Not because he needed it, or wanted it-because it was cheap. I'm not talking about one of everything, like two or three because holy ****, with this coupon I get 30 screwdrivers for $10.99.

So his garage is like a HF store, seriously. So that and the usually box store stuff is what I have. I've had things going on the last few years where I'm using that stuff and every time I'm like "nope, junk, hate it, horrible fit, going to get some good stuff."

So during this time off I've had tons of things going on from rotating tire, to shelves going up to a simulator racing rig fabrication and so on.

The HF drill bits wouldn't go through much, dull and weak. Yes I know about speed, lube, heat etc. Two broke easily so I bought some Milwaukee cobalt and it was like butter from there on out. Those aren't even that good. I am aware of the user error factor. I don't think that was it. Putting in shelves using theirs and Ryobi bits was ridiculous. I've put up some decks up and understand drill pressure, correct bit size, cam out quality of fasteners etc. After drilling pilot hole, could hardly get a #10x2 1/2" in.

Dremel stuff. Screw sheared as soon as I touched to wheel to the object. Wheels failed in seconds.

Simple oil change. Fit and play in sockets was horrible, yes I got the job done just fine.

Tire rotation There's a picture of the socket after I was done:

The Jig saw blades I bought, this that and the other. JUNK.

So I researched and researched on your site and went on a mission to make a basic tool box of the best stuff I can afford.

So far:

Screwdrivers, Wera set of 6 with hex shaft and laser tip. PB Swiss was just a little too much and possibly have smelly handles. Amazing. Those fasteners that stripped out on the shelves. They were pretty gone. Tried to get a set of pliers to bite to back out, couldn't. The laser tip on the #3 grabbed and backed it out and there was hardly anything left. Smile from ear to ear.

Pliers set NWS with the good handles. Couldn't believe how they gripped. Cut through thick wires like nothing. No death grips to only come away with some partial cut crimped wire like with my current junk. Wish I got the Knipex for combination pliers but I'm OK.

Allen Keys, PB Swiss and Wera. Amazing fit compared to HF set. Wera Hex Plus actually makes a difference.

I've made some other purchases but you get the idea. These tools are life changing almost. They're amazing and I have a smile every time I use them on by brief little BS thing I'm doing.

So I'm just moving on to ratchets now. Like I said really researched on this site and googled each individual. SO, GW 90 and 120, Proto precision 90, Matco 88, SK for their 40970,40971, Armstrong maxx, Store brands, HF pro and Icon and many more.

Consensus seems to be overall the SO dual 80's. The Nepros came up quite a few time and many have said it's the best ratchet they ever used including current dual 80 owners. They only have QR ratchets so I spent a day going over QR vs non QR. Flex vs. Non Flex and standard vs. long version.

The reality is I'm not a mechanic and won't be squeezing these things in tight spaces much. The reality is I'm not a mechanic and will not be using abusing and testing these things daily. I'm not even the biggest DIY guy. I could use anything and it would be good enough and I wouldn't notice any of the differences in tooth count, back drag and more. I could go to Walmart and get theirvHyper Tough or Hart or HF and get their pro stuff, HD and get Husky or get some Kobalt and it would be way more than sufficient for the ocasional use they get.

I'm aware there is some stuff you can get from HF and some stuff you can't. Some of the stuff I've used gets the job done. Don't buy any cutting tools for sure.

I've just decided I want my forever ratchets in a 1/4 and 3/8 and I will back fill a 1/2 with a GW or something. I was looking at SK but the recent reviews on their ratchets and sockets are horrible. Like NO QC whatsoever.

For sockets I am getting Williams for the quality for the price for USA and Snap on connection.

I don't see any value for a tinkerer like me to fill up my Box with SO. Just see too much diminishing returns on their prices. However when it comes to a ratchet theirs appears to be the champ. Nepros are pulling me too. The price is the same.

So I'm going to drop a couple hundred+ on two ratchets, two ratchets will possibly be all I ever need and I can fill in others with some GW or the likes. I was wondering mostly about length. My never in an engine compartment self problably doesn't need flex but I see the argument of get it in case and the whole locking flex. Used flexes a few times in my life and never felt confident about it.

I've babbled too long. I love the site and all of your input.